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I Have an Itch to Scratch


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Posted

Yes, that is indeed a play on words :) I have been seriously thinking about kitting myself out with the necessary tools to at least attempt a scratch built model. I have a very well equipped woodshop on our property here and have been playing with wood for a number of years now but, understandably, the tools in there are rather large and not suited for model ship building. I would like to know what it is I would need to begin this journey. I have a rough idea and already have some input on mini drill presses but things like mills and/or mini table saws for model ship building are all new to me. So, a shout goes out to all those scratch build experts out there. Newbie in need of help here :) 

Mark

 

On the table:   Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70

 

Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

FinishedEndeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

  • Solution
Posted

Mark, if you've been building kits, then you already have the tools needed to scratch build.

 

You can purchase milled wood stock (have a look at the list of MSW sponsors) for your project or, if you want to use your own timber, you can cut down to pretty small sizes using standard woodworking machinery which you probably already have. I purchased the Byrnes table saw and thicknesser a few years ago when the Aussie dollar hit parity with the US dollar for a short time, but prior to that all my models were built with no special miniature woodworking machinery. On reflection, I could probably have just purchased the thicknesser as I hardly ever use the saw. 

 

Just choose a ship to build and give it a go. You can purchase machinery later if you find you really need it.

 

John

Posted
3 hours ago, Jim Lad said:

Just choose a ship to build and give it a go. You can purchase machinery later if you find you really need it.

 

You are right! A sound piece of advice, John, and one I shall heed 100%. The last thing I want is a pile of (sometimes expensive) equipment sitting around that I thought I needed. That would be very foolish. I have opted for a decent scroll saw, but only because my old one had seen better days. THANK YOU!!

Mark

 

On the table:   Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70

 

Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

FinishedEndeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

Posted

Mark,

As Jim said, you can purchase milled lumber which is actually easier than milling your own for the planking or deck. The exception would be if you want to include exotic woods such as yellow heart or ebony where milled pieces can't be obtained. The one machine I would find tough to replace by other means is a scroll saw for cutting odd shapes. I have a table saw and a thickness planner. I find the thickness planner very useful for making sure the stock I personally milled is uniform. I also have a mini lathe. I don't have a drill press. Welcome to scratch building. It's a lot of fun and it opens up a lot more opportunities as to what you can build.

Rich

Next up: The bomb vessel Carcass 1758

Completed scratch build: The 36 gun frigate "L'Unite" 1797

Completed scratch build: The armed brig "Badger" 1777

Completed kits: Mamoli "Alert", Caldercraft "Sherbourne"

Posted

For cutting bulkheads, frames and other curved pieces as scroll saw is very handy. You can do this with a coping saw or jeweler's saw, but the scroll saw is much faster. You can use it for cutting small pieces of any shape from larger sheets.

 

A disk/belt sander is very useful for finishing edges, bevels and such. You can use it for the final trim of parts that were cut out with the scroll saw.

 

The one tool I miss the most is a milling machine. This will allow drilling a sequence of evenly spaced holes in a straight line, like the holes in a pin rail. You can also mill precisely dimensioned shapes with holes and cutouts, like parts for cannon carriages or "mag" wheels for cars. A drill press with an X/Y table is a poor substitute but better than nothing. A drill press is designed for up/down drilling only. A milling machine has bearings designed to take lateral forces, so you can use end mills to rout out grooves and finish surfaces with high precision. I want a small mill that has little runout or wobble (very good bearings). For large drill bits it doesn't matter much, but with small bits it is very important. If the drill bit wobbles the hole will not be round, and small bits will snap off.

 

A ventilated paint booth would be good if you do much spray (airbrush) painting. Or you can do what I do, and wait until it warms up outside and do the painting in the back yard.

 

I find my quilting/wood bending/sail making iron very useful.

 

You need some sort of vise to hold things while you work on them.

 

If you do much work with brass or other metals an sheet metal shear (brake) would be useful for cutting custom dimension strips.

 

A sheet metal bender is useful. If you work with small pieces of thin metal a photo etch bender will do.

 

A soldering iron is useful for working with brass and other solderable metals.

Phil

 

Current build: Vanguard Models 18 foot cutter

Current build: USS Cape MSI-2

Current build: Albatros topsail schooner

Previous build: USS Oklahoma City CLG-5 CAD model

 

Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Dr PR said:

You need some sort of vise to hold things while you work on them.

 

Yes, a good vise was the other thing I had thought a lot about, along with the scroll saw that is already on my list. I have a nice soldering iron already, Phil, and I have already purchased that sailmaking/wood bending tool that you had recommended. As far as the milling machine goes, I think I will start a kit, like @Jim Lad suggested, and see how I get on. 

Edited by SaltyScot
Text added

Mark

 

On the table:   Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70

 

Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

FinishedEndeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

Posted

Finding good plans with the detail you need is more important than any tools you might think you need. A scroll saw from harbor freight was all I added to what I had.

Bill

Posted
1 hour ago, ChrisLBren said:

This is the scroll saw you want

 

Considering most of my tools are DeWalt anyway, this makes total sense (at least that is how I am going to present my case to the treasurer :) )

Mark

 

On the table:   Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70

 

Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

FinishedEndeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

Posted

Amplifying what some others have said, start the project and see what you need.

 

And consider the tasks to produce the materials.

 

Are you going to make your strip wood or buy it?  Over time there is the buying expense, and will you be able to buy what you need?  If you make it, you will need to safely cut thin strips of wood.  A machine is an option.  Hand tools are available but time consuming.  Lie Nielson makes a strip thickness tool.

 

Likewise with holes.  How will you drill hundreds of small holes?  Hand tools are available.  Or Foredom makes precision hand pieces and a drill press - make a jig and you’re on your way.   

 

I’d go cheap, only buy what you need, you may get tired of it, or something in your life may change.

 

Beware of buying sets, or packages with accessories that may rarely or never used. 

 

Good luck!

 

Posted

One thing that hasn’t been mentioned that you may already have based on your comments on well equipped wood shop. I would recommend a good set of wood chisels and the means to keep them extremely sharp. I use a set that is nothing fancy with sizes between about 1/8” up to about 1/2”. These are super handy for all sorts of work and well worth the investment.  

 

Another thing that I have recently added that I don’t know how I lived without is a small jewelers saw and various blades. They are relatively inexpensive online and incredibly useful for cutting out tiny shapes that aren’t so easy to do with a coping saw or scroll saw. 
 

Adam

Posted
2 hours ago, Pirate adam said:

I would recommend a good set of wood chisels and the means to keep them extremely sharp.

 

I have those, Adam, and a slow grinder to keep them sharp (I am a wood carver by the way). Thanks for your feedback, sir.

Mark

 

On the table:   Lynx, Baltimore Clipper Schooner - MANTUA - 1:62

 

Awaiting shipyard clearance: HMS Endurance - OcCre - 1:70

 

Wishlist: 1939 Chris Craft Runabout - Garrett Wade - 1:8

 

FinishedEndeavour 1934 - J Class Racing Yacht - 1:80

 

 

Dogs do speak, but only to those who know how to listen

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