HMS Surprise 1796 (prototype) by James H - Vanguard Models - 1:64

[James H]

8 hours ago, Pitan said:

Question.  
When not in action, would the gun carriages in the captain's cabin be stored facing fore or aft, rather than out to the side?
At the moment, they seem to be blocking access through the cabin doors while Aubrey and Maturin are relaxing with their music.

Prob artistic licence, simply for display convention. A bit like the figures 😆

[AlanDavison]

When a sea and not in action, all gun ports would be closed, gun quoins would be removed and canon and carriage lashed securely to the bulwark to prevent movement.

Models are nearly always shown with canons run out as this enhances the appearance of the model.

As an aside ships boats were often towed, especially when the ship was in action as it reduced the possibility of desertion or splinter injuries. 

[Daniel M]

5 hours ago, AlanDavison said:

as it reduced the possibility of desertion or splinter injuries

 

I remember reading somewhere that the boats where towed to keep them safe during action as they could have been damaged more easily if they were stored on deck and to safe time when they are needed because they are already in the water, but I don't know if this is true.

[Pitan]

On 10/20/2025 at 11:27 AM, AlanDavison said:

As an aside ships boats were often towed, especially when the ship was in action as it reduced the possibility of desertion or splinter injuries.

There are lots of paintings with boats being towed, even in peacetime.
Reasons include those given, but it also gave more space on deck, and helped keep the hull timbers wet, thus avoiding shrinkage and reduced the risk of leaks.

Didn't Aubrey once put a mix of (potential) mutineers and good men in a towed boat?
An uncomfortable experience.

[AlanDavison]

Another thing as well. Most ships boats had masts and sails as well as oars. But masts and sales are seldom included in kit form. Something to be considered in future kits?

[LED]

'Vanguard Models' has a very nice filter under it's 'Models' flyover menu option.  They skill rate their kits to 'Novice', 'Amateur', 'Experienced', 'Advanced', and 'Master'.

I am thinking of trying out a wood kit.  I found VM because of their skill rating and much appreciate it.  I am looking at the 'Grecian 1812' - which is in the 'Amateur' level.  BTW, I found this build log from ModelKits.com.  He has a nice box opening review.

Where would this kit fall?  I am guessing a bit higher than 'Amateur' - but, there is always hope🤪

[bjolin]

It was mentioned somewhere that it probably would end up in the Advanced category, far from certain though. I'm currently working on the Sherbourne, and long term plan is to take on the Grecian next, after that would be Adder followed by the Duchess and then eventually ending up with the big Surprise. If you're planning on building a Vanguard models kit I strongly suggest taking a look at the ModelKitStuff  youtube channel, lots of excellent coverage of their kits there.

[palmerit]

2 hours ago, LED said:

'Vanguard Models' has a very nice filter under it's 'Models' flyover menu option.  They skill rate their kits to 'Novice', 'Amateur', 'Experienced', 'Advanced', and 'Master'.

I am thinking of trying out a wood kit.  I found VM because of their skill rating and much appreciate it.  I am looking at the 'Grecian 1812' - which is in the 'Amateur' level.  BTW, I found this build log from ModelKits.com.  He has a nice box opening review.

Where would this kit fall?  I am guessing a bit higher than 'Amateur' - but, there is always hope🤪

I bet Advanced as well at least. The 'Novice' kits are still quite challenging - not just from Vanguard - if you've never built a wooden ship. My first build was the Sherbourne. When I was first thinking about getting a wooden ship model, I was using my knowledge of Lego models (lots of experience with my boys getting Lego models for years - even now into their 20s) and plastic models (which I had built a bunch as a kid). With a Lego kit, nearly any adult would be able to build the most difficult 18+ model, maybe with a few do-overs with the most challenging Technics model. With a plastic kit, most adult would be able to put together a mid-level plastic kit. The lowest level plastic kits are for 8 year olds. With wooden model ships, novice still means a lot of learning and weeks or months of working on the build. I took a year to build the Vanguard Sherbourne - but that was because in parallel I built the three novice models from the Model Shipways Shipwright series. Check out the Modelkit Stuff build of the Sherbourne. I bought the Duchess (Experienced) as my second model, but then I decided to instead first build three of the Vanguard fishing boats (two are Novice, one is Amateur). I'll probably do the Grecian next - I just really like its look. Then I'll do the Duchess. 

[LED]

I'm watching some builds of various 'Vanguard Models' as I type.  I see what you two are speaking about.  I might go novice just to ensure success.

All in all, the kits seem really well built and the instructions seem first rate - but, flubbing things is an expensive lesson 😄

I think the Sherbourne might be a good fit for me.  Got to get the tools, the skills, and I want a success.

[James H]

My apologies for being so slack on updates. Surprise is now unrecognisable from my last update, and some of you have already noticed the image change on the homepage of Vanguard Models website. Anyway, here we go...

 

The stern of Surprise has been tackled in a different way that previous releases, removing any modeller error where the stern fascia could possibly be located too low on the hull. This release includes protrusions on the vertical stern timbers. These contain slots into which the stern fascia fits. Once the stern is chamfered to shape, the inner stern fascia is then temporarily slotted into place, and then the lower counter can be properly positioned and glued into place. The inner stern fascia can then be removed while other hull work continues. 

 

 

 

Some of the largest parts in the kit are the first layer of outer bulwarks. The front end of these are soaked in hot water and then clamped around the bow for 24hrs until dry and they regain their normal size. Once dry, the bulwarks are CLAMPED into place....NO GLUE! This is simply to help align the first hull plank. 

 

 

The first layer of planking can now begin, starting with lime. With this in place, the bulwark can be removed until later. 

 

 

Once complete, the hull is sanded smooth. Before this happens, a temporary plank is placed above the first plank. Sounds odd? 

 

Ok, HMS Surprise does NOT have wales on either side. Instead, the main hull planking protrudes slightly beyond the bulwarks. To achieve this, we first use 1.5mm lime planking. (the inner bulwark was only 0.8mm). The temporary plank is to prevent the modeller from accidentally running inwards along the top side while sanding. When the hull is sanded, the plank and tape (to stop dust ingress), can be removed. Note the sanding mouse too. This is now what I use for large hulls.

 

I now add a waterline which is about 5mm below the actual one. Everything above this has any slight gaps filled. Below the waterline though, we'll of course be coppering.

 

More soon.

 

 

[James H]

You'll also notice the jigs are back in situ. Those will be there until the hull is fully planked and sanded. They just give the hull some nice rigidity while being manhandled. 

[Kevin]

What a lovely Christmas treat, thank you @James H and @chris watton

[James H]

Another update!

 

The hull now receives its pear planking and engraved outer bulwarks (once the inners are glued). We can now dispense with the remaining visible MDF structure. This is now snipped away, pending the main deck being laid. The deck is then glued down and it's time to add the inner bulwarks.

 

 

 

Here are the forecastle inner bulwarks. These fit like a treat! You need to soak the fore areas though and leave them to thoroughly dry while being clamped into the bow area. The bulwarks are then removed, painted and then finally glued, both here and on the quarterdeck areas. 

 

 

 

 

The triple-layer bulwarks are now levelled along their top edges and the various gun ports and other openings are cleaned up.

 

The catheads are built and then the forecastle openings are suited to fit these assemblies. These aren't glued in at this stage.

 

 

We can now return to the stern area. Before be can do any fitting here, the back needs to be flushed off, meaning the bulwarks and spirket will need to levelled properly.

 

 

 

 

 

With the stern fascia temporarily in position again, the quarter gallery frames are now constructed. The inner stern area has the framework angles engraved on them, so getting those MDT frame parts in position is foolproof.

 

There are two layers of pear around the windows area, creating those recessed areas for the panes. The lower panel is a single piece of pear. The stern fascia can now be glued into place.

 

 

To finish the stern (almost) various rails are fitted, as well as some beautiful 3d-printed drops for the quarters. The only decor to now be fitted are some engraved laserbak details around the outer circumference etc. At that point, the whole stern will change again. 

 

Hope you like the work so far.

[Maid of the Mist]

It already looks beautiful.  I especially love the 3D printed drops.  Taking full advantage of modern tech is what puts these kits a cut above the rest.