Good 'Hobby Quality' Metal Lathes

[Rik Thistle]

tmj,

 

Everything that has been said before, plus...

 

Since you are based in Texas, USA you might want to consider a local company like Grizzly ..... https://www.grizzly.com/metal-lathes  ....showrooms in Missouri and Washington..... they also deliver to your home.  

 

From their website.... Our products are manufactured in several countries, including locations in Asia, Europe, and the U.S. Many of our products are made in China and Taiwan, while others are produced in the U.S. and Europe.   I suspect most of their sub-$3k lathes are made in China, and maybe Taiwan. Those designs look very similar many other sellers of Chinese lathes, so they possibly come out of the same factory but with differing quality control standards.  Chinese made lathes are no longer 'bad'.... they have upped their game, but rejects plus poorer quality control units can end up in the direct sales route.

 

I would buy from a USA supplier (eg 'Grizzly' or The Little Machine Shop) since they will have already taken care of import admin etc. They can also deliver quicker from USA based stock, provide local Support (...most definitely not to be underestimated) and a wide range of accessories, again usually from stock.  I'd avoid Amazon/eBay kit.

 

You mentioned $3k as being a bit too high but if you buy a $1.5k lathe, say, you can expect to eventually spend at least that same amount on tooling and accessories....it's one of the laws of nature I'm afraid 😉 

 

I have a lathe similar to the Grizzly G0765 - https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-7-x-14-variable-speed-benchtop-metal-lathe/g0765    Mine's runs a 3" 3 jaw chuck (and collets, as Wefalck recommends) , has a 3.5" swing, 0.5HP brushless motor and quick release tailstock. I make metal model engines on it.  You'll need a little space either end of the lathe for gearing access and tailstock wheel handling, plus a few inches behind it.

 

Oh, and don't forget to get a light...I use a flexible Ikea clip-on one.

 

Good hunting.

 

Richard

Edited December 3 by Rik Thistle

[Snug Harbor Johnny]

  Per the above posts (I have the Unimat SL - compact but adequate for what I've done) - the back pulley on the Unimat 3 should be flipped so the largest wheel is on the outside.  That way, the small wheel on the output pulley will line up with the large back wheel for a better speed reduction that is further reduced by a second belt going from the inner small wheel of the  back pulley set to the larger pulley on the spindle pulley set.

 

  The motor does make noise, but has been in occasional use for decades.  I'll look for any lubrication point.  The unit is metric, so 1mm is about 39.5 thousandths.  You have to figure that a cut will take twice that off the diameter, and be careful to 'creep up' to the size you want (measured frequently) - hence light cuts, but efficiency is not a factor in one-off work.  Yet once a setup is perfected (sometimes a jig or holding fixture is developed from scrap), multiple parts can be made with OK accuracy ... just not high-precision.

[tmj]

19 hours ago, palmerit said:

I’m curious if lathes are either sized for small work (like on a model ship) OR larger work (like turning a bowl, or if here are lathes that do both

You can easily do small work on a large lathe. I do this at work all the time, however. I want something small, for small parts and home use. Something that I can easily lift up and set on a table for use, then put it back in its case, for storage, when I'm through using it. Can't do that with a full-sized industrial grade lathe! 🫤 The Unimat SL is looking pretty good to me right now!

Edited December 3 by tmj

[druxey]

My Unimat DB has done well  for me now for over 50 years - used, but not abused. The only drawback is that taper turning is a bit awkward. The headstock needs to be turned, as the cross-slide is fixed at a right angle to the bed. The basic boxed set was $CAN99 back in '72!

[Don]

I have a both a Unimat 3 with the milling column and a Taig (lathe and mill).  I like both, they both have their place, but I think the Taigs are more robust and a little heavier.  The Taig mill you can get it with a motor and pulley combo so that it will run at 10000 RPM.  That's nice when using a small dia. cutter and milling wood (less tear out).  I have the Taig set up for CNC work so if it something small I just use the Unimat.  The Taig mill I also have a pendant, so I can use it manually to driving the steppers.  

 

Like everyone has said depends on what you want to use it for both are mobile and can be moved around.  The Taig mill setup, like I have it, is too heavy to be moving around(I have it in an enclosure), but the standard manual mill could be moved easy enough. 

 

I will also say this.  In the tech world of today there is stuff I made in the past that I would 3D print now.  I would not want to be without them though.

[tmj]

I'll continue to shop...

 

 

 

Edited December 4 by tmj

[paul ron]

ive done some research on these small lathes several years ago and what makes a big difference is what comes with the machine and what accessories are available. the older the lathe is, the accessories become rare and expensive.

 

if you do buy a small lathe, be sure to check what comes with it and if other accessories you'll need to do more advanced work are available or included.

 

i always wanted a unimat, and still do. ive had a few opportunities to buy one and im still kicking myself for not buying the few that were fully loaded. since they were old and did need some heavy cleaning and some overhauling, i passed them up since the asking price was too high for the condition it was in. that was a mistake. now the same lathes full loaded are much more expensive and even less accessories are available or way out of price range. 

 

unless the lathe was dropped out of the 5th floor window or abused, they are very tough and really easy enough to clean and refurbish. most of these machines use standard parts like sealed bearings, pullies, chucks... parts that wear over time like drive belts are easy enough to replace. runout is the biggest problem, but new bearings are easy enough to replace... also some parts and mods can be made by you on the lathe.

 

if you arent handy, then buy a new(er) lathe. but realize you get what you pay for. they dont make em like they use to! cheap is cheap. 

 

try doing a search in the forums? this subject has come up many times over the years. there are plenty of machinest forms too you can search for information... even get the manuals for them, its an education in itself and thats were you'll find the differences.

 

as for size?... i worked on a lathe that was 8' long making tiny metal parts and even threaded ss #4 left handed screws.

Edited December 4 by paul ron

[Y.T.]

If I were you, tmj, I would think again buying Unimat. As I said I own both Unimat DB/SL and Sherline with extended base. Both were purchased second hand locally through local equivalent of Craigs List.  Now Unimat sits idle as Sherline can do any job that a Unimat can. I should have sold Unimat but somehow feel attached to it.

[tmj]

2 hours ago, Y.T. said:

If I were you, tmj, I would think again buying Unimat.

I'm not understanding what you are saying. Are you saying that I should 'not' by a Unimat? Are you saying that I should 'reconsider' my choice of lathe manufacturer? 

[tmj]

On 12/3/2025 at 5:46 PM, druxey said:

My Unimat DB has done well  for me now for over 50 years - used, but not abused. The only drawback is that taper turning is a bit awkward.

Yes, I've seen how to adjust the Unimat for taper, and 'also' how to remove runout to within .0005" imperial. Not so bad. Not much different than trimming out the head on a Bridgeport mill after rotating the head. It's just one of those things that has to be done no matter 'what' machine one uses.  

[Y.T.]

27 minutes ago, tmj said:

I'm not understanding what you are saying. Are you saying that I should 'not' by a Unimat?

Yes. At the end you will not be able to do all you want on Unimat as it is too small and will buy Sherline or whatever is larger you like. Unimat will sit collecting dust and reminding you that you spent $1000 in vain.

[tmj]

Y.T.... I see what you are saying, however. I have large lathes and need no more. I want something that fits in a small box that will be used for nothing but small, not so precise model parts. Big and precise parts will continue to be machined at the factory/shop on the industrial grade lathes. 

[Y.T.]

Just for you to compare. Sherline is also small and I keep it in my walk in closet on the floor. 
 

[tmj]

12 minutes ago, Y.T. said:

Just for you to compare. Sherline is also small and I keep it in my walk in closet on the floor. 

How much do you want for your Unimat? For the right price I'll give it a good home! That's an after-market motor. Is it brushless and variable speed?

Edited December 5 by tmj

[Y.T.]

41 minutes ago, tmj said:

How much do you want for your Unimat? For the right price I'll give it a good home! That's an after-market motor. Is it brushless and variable speed?

No. Thanks. I will keep it. About the motor the former owner said it is not after market. It’s a later improved version with 100% duty. It is one speed DC with brushes. 

[kurtvd19]

The all metal Unimat that YT showed certainly isn't what you can buy today.  That's the version I was always saving up for (1960 to 1965) but something else always  was needed first.  When I got back to modeling it was no longer available like it had been and I went in another direction and eventually got a Taig and then a Sherline.

[druxey]

The Unimat featured in post #43 is fitted with a cross slide attachment to traverse it longitudinally. When engaged it saves a lot of turning a handwheel!

[Y.T.]

21 minutes ago, druxey said:

The Unimat featured in post #43 is fitted with a cross slide attachment

I bought this attachment on eBay for something like $300 Canadian. Any Unimat parts are expensive.

[Don]

If you are looking for something just for models and medium precision a unimat or sherline will fit your needs, especially that you have access to large machines.  If you go with a unimat try to find one with the milling column I use that far more than the basic lathe.  Also you may want to look at the unimat 3, that was the last model they produced.  You can look on eBay they usually have one up all the time, they probably sold and produced more SL models though.  I bought my unimat 3 back in the 80's when they were still being produced.  If I was looking just for something for modeling now I would go with a sherline or taig, for a mill I went with a taig and don't regret it at all.  The taig mill is very robust and accurate for a hobby mill. You are not going to be taking a taig mill in and out of a box and moving it all over though.  A unimat you could fit both the lathe and milling column along with everything else in a box or two and move it anywhere easy.  

 

Don

[Nirvana]

I was recently fortunate enough to inherit a Taig lathe and mill from a friend who is downsizing.

Both the mill and lathe are heavy to move around, but that should eliminate vibrations down to a solid bench.
Along with that I also got the CNC unit for the mill, yes, they are pre-2020 but now it is worth to proceed with updates..... and if someone knows how to do it feel free to contact me.

Bottom line, even a quality Chinese lathe will do your job.

I was lucky. But would have gone with a Chinese or Taiwan or even possible a Japanese lathe.

[Y.T.]

tmj. Here is private Toronto listing for Unimat 3. Platform is called Kijiji. Here people sell their own stuff. No taxes. No exposure to the government. Looks like a great offer with lots of accessories.

 

https://www.kijiji.ca/v-power-tool/city-of-toronto/emco-unimat-3-lathes-milling-machines-and-accessories/1729699213

 

[tmj]

Thanks Y.T. but I bought this, today. It will not only serve my basic needs quite well, but it is 'also' simple enough that I'll be able to easily make all of my own custom accessories, etc. using the bigger machines at work. First project will be making a duplicator/repeater for nice curvy stanchions, etc. I already have the concept designed. I just need to get the machine in my hands so I can get actual 'working' dimensions. This thing should be great fun to mess with and design gadgets for! 😁 

 

Not sure if I'll keep the original motor, pulleys and belt system. I'll play with it and see how it goes. If I need more power and torque, I have a 24VDC 500-watt motor and power supply that I can adapt to fit this thing. I also have a good supply of pulleys and V-belts too. Can't wait 'till it gets here! 

 

 

[tmj]

Thanks for all the informative replies to this thread. I've read them all and used all of you folk's feedback in my decision. "Thank You All!"

[Y.T.]

11 minutes ago, tmj said:

Thanks Y.T. but I bought this, today.

Congratulations! It looks hardly used and clean of corrosion. One issue I was having with mine like this is that the motor interferes with a work piece. I wish the motor would be separated off the lathe and mounted of a common board further back to be away from work piece. This however kills the advantage of lathe being compact.  

[tmj]

27 minutes ago, Y.T. said:

Congratulations! It looks hardly used and clean of corrosion. One issue I was having with mine like this is that the motor interferes with a work piece. I wish the motor would be separated off the lathe and mounted of a common board further back to be away from work piece. This however kills the advantage of lathe being compact.  

I doubt that I'll ever have that problem. I don't intend to turn anything but small diameter stock. 

[druxey]

Congratulations! Long may you enjoy its use. I notice the very useful manual is included in your purchase. 

 

You may find, as I did, that a small shim might be required to align the head and tailstock. Some tool bits might also require shimming to be accurately on center. I never felt a more powerful motor was needed.

[tmj]

3 minutes ago, druxey said:

You may find, as I did, that a small shim might be required to align the head and tailstock. Some tool bits might also require shimming to be accurately on center. I never felt a more powerful motor was needed.

Thanks David! I have plenty of shim stock at work. Can't live without it even on the big machines. It's also nice to know that the motor will probably be fine, however. If it 'is'... that's one less fun project that I'll get to tinker with! 😔 LOL

[wefalck]

I don't remember what the spindle-thread is on the SL, I think 12 mm x 1 mm or 14 mm x 1 mm. You may be able to find ES-collet adapters with this thread. Or someone may be able to turn it up for you. A useful set of say ES16- collets can be had for little money these days. This so much safer for working on small parts, than working close to fast rotating jaws on a chuck ... 

 

You may also consider running the lathe off a momentary foot-switch. This keeps your hands free and in an emergency, you just lift your foot to stop the lathe, rather than having to reach for a switch.

 

As the motor is an ordinary brushed one, you can use an electronic light-dimmer as speed-control. Over here in Europe with dimmers that plug into wall-sockets into which then your lathe can be plugged. They are cheap. You loose power, but for working on small-diameter parts that loss of torque doesn't really matter. I have used such configuration for many years.

 

Edited Wednesday at 08:08 AM by wefalck

[bruce d]

30 minutes ago, wefalck said:

I don't remember what the spindle-thread is on the SL, I think 12 mm x 1 mm or 14 mm x 1 mm. 

SL = M12x1

Unimat 3&4 = M14x1

BTW, some Sherline lathes had M12x1 but most (the later ones) had M12.25 x 1

Bruce 

[wefalck]

... but Sherline offers its very good chucks with 12 mm x 1 mm threads as well, I think.