vas1949 Posted February 19, 2013 Share #1 Posted February 19, 2013 I am building a model of an 18th century navel gun by Model Shipways. The model has gun carriage of cast metal and the glue I tried to use did not work very well on metal to metal application. Does anyone have good advice for me. Any help on what type of glue to use would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ulises Victoria Posted February 19, 2013 Share #2 Posted February 19, 2013 I think we would like to know what kind of glue you used that did not work well. Anyway two options come to my mind: Cyanoacrilate (Ca for short. aka super glue or crazy glue) or Epoxy. I would use Epoxy myself. vas1949 1 Quote There aren't but two options: do it FAST, or do it RIGHT. Current Project Build Log: Soleil Royal in 1/72. Kit by Artesania Latina. Last finished projects: Royal Ship Vasa 1628; French Vessel Royal Louis 1780. 1/90 Scale by Mamoli. 120 Cannons Future projects already in my stash: Panart: San Felipe 1/75; OcCre: Santísima Trinidad 1/90; Wish List: 1/64 Amati Victory, HMS Enterprise in 1/48 by CAF models. So much to build, so little time! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vas1949 Posted February 19, 2013 Author Share #3 Posted February 19, 2013 Thanks, I will buy some epoxy tomorrow morning. I did try CA the gap filling kind and white glue and I did not have much luck. Best Wishes Vern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vas1949 Posted February 19, 2013 Author Share #4 Posted February 19, 2013 Thanks for the advice, I will see if our local store has it. Best Vern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiKri Posted February 19, 2013 Share #5 Posted February 19, 2013 I also used something like Soudal Fix All, or even better Pattex 100% (solvent free). This is a one-component glue that fixes everything and is very flexible. But just like the expoxy glue, it can become a mess applying it. I only use CA when there is no gap at all between the parts. vas1949 1 Quote Current build: Wasa (Corel) Already build: HMS Fly (Victory Models) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garward Posted March 16, 2013 Share #6 Posted March 16, 2013 СA is better to glue metal details, but thus surfaces have to be pure, and amount of glue minimum (literally droplets). Surplus of СA when drying gives a white raid. vas1949 and Robbro 2 Quote Best regards, Garward Is under construction Montanes Ready models Golden Star Corsair San Francisco II Bronze 24-pdr canone Le Fleuron Bronze 24-pdr canone Le Fleuron (second version) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garward Posted March 16, 2013 Share #7 Posted March 16, 2013 (edited) On a photo the template from aluminum for production of a framework of gun ports is shown http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/82-montanes-by-garward-occre/page-2 Motionless details of a template are stuck together among themselves CA (capacity with CA is visible on a background). The template sustained production of several tens framework and further is suitable for use. Edited March 16, 2013 by Garward vas1949 1 Quote Best regards, Garward Is under construction Montanes Ready models Golden Star Corsair San Francisco II Bronze 24-pdr canone Le Fleuron Bronze 24-pdr canone Le Fleuron (second version) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garward Posted March 16, 2013 Share #8 Posted March 16, 2013 Continuation vas1949 and shihawk 2 Quote Best regards, Garward Is under construction Montanes Ready models Golden Star Corsair San Francisco II Bronze 24-pdr canone Le Fleuron Bronze 24-pdr canone Le Fleuron (second version) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richardt Posted March 17, 2013 Share #9 Posted March 17, 2013 A problem that often arises with cast metal adhesion is that the parts are coated with wax-like substances that are used as release agents from the mould. This presents problems with any adhesive. I suggest that the parts are soaked briefly in acetone and scrubbed lightly to remove these first and then allow them to dry before mounting. I prefer to use thickened CA over epoxy. Richard vas1949 and justsayrow 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffT Posted March 17, 2013 Share #10 Posted March 17, 2013 CA usually works well enough for me. As Richard said though, the parts need to be cleaned first. I use vinegar. Also experiment with different makes of CA if you go that route. Some work better for metals than others. I prefer the gorilla brand for metal. justsayrow and vas1949 2 Quote Jeff In progress: Medway Longboat 1742 - Syren Ship Model Company -1/2" scale USS Constitution - Model Shipways - Scale 1:76 HMS Granado - CAF Model - 1:48 HMS Sphinx - Vanguard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vas1949 Posted March 17, 2013 Author Share #11 Posted March 17, 2013 Thanks to all my fellow ship modelers who have givien me good advice on this topic. I sanded the part just enough to give a flat surface, then cleaned with laquer thinner, and after the part wast completely dry I used CA adhesive and it work Well. Thank You ALL Vern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modeler12 Posted April 8, 2013 Share #12 Posted April 8, 2013 One more thing to remember, just like you experienced yourself just now: Castings of metal always have a release coating to have the parts come off the mold. Hence, this coating is not all that kind to accepting glue. Be sure to remove the coating. Usually a scrubbing with some soapy water and a brush will do it. If not, use some steel wool.Use any of the glues mentioned, but I still like epoxy for strength and CA for convenience. Quote Jay Current build Cross Section USS Constitution http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10120-cross-section-forward-area-of-the-uss-constitution/ Finished USS Constitution: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/103-uss-constitution-by-modeler12/ 'A picture is worth a . . . . .' More is better . . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MD11pilot Posted April 8, 2013 Share #13 Posted April 8, 2013 Garward! What in the world is that fancy contraption you are using to build your gun ports?! Another home made invention? Love it. Quote Eric O.<p>Current Build: US Brig Syren, kit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
von stetina Posted April 9, 2013 Share #14 Posted April 9, 2013 Roughening the two surfaces to be joined is a big help in the strength dept if you can do it. It gives what is called "tooth." The joint will be much stronger. Von Stetina glennb17 and augie 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omarcs Posted March 30, 2014 Share #15 Posted March 30, 2014 Canopy cement I was at a train show today and a gentleman recommended "canopy cement". He said you could glue glass to metal if you wanted to. Said canopies stay glued to aircraft even during crashes. Also suggested putting a little glue on each surface and allow to get tacky before putting pieces together, like contact cement. Also said a little glue is too much. needs to cure 24 hours. Also, you can use it to make small window. Comes out white and dries clear. will work on wood. I think I will give it a try. Quote Omar Cutty Sark Scientific kit 1:140ish Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Seiler Posted March 30, 2014 Share #16 Posted March 30, 2014 Where does one acquire canopy glue? Quote Chuck Seiler San Diego Ship Modelers Guild Nautical Research Guild Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section Completed: Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Seiler Posted March 31, 2014 Share #17 Posted March 31, 2014 But how is it for staying power? I have heard it gives out after couple years. Quote Chuck Seiler San Diego Ship Modelers Guild Nautical Research Guild Current Build:: Colonial Schooner SULTANA (scratch from Model Expo Plans), Hanseatic Cog Wutender Hund, Pinas Cross Section Completed: Missouri Riverboat FAR WEST (1876) Scratch, 1776 Gunboat PHILADELPHIA (Scratch), John Smith Shallop Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted March 31, 2014 Share #18 Posted March 31, 2014 Where does one acquire canopy glue? Try a hobby shop that sells aircraft... Quote Mark "The shipwright is slow, but the wood is patient." - me Current Build: Past Builds: La Belle Poule 1765 - French Frigate from ANCRE plans - ON HOLD Triton Cross-Section NRG Hallf Hull Planking Kit HMS Sphinx 1775 - Vanguard Models - 1:64 Non-Ship Model: On hold, maybe forever: CH-53 Sikorsky - 1:48 - Revell - Completed Licorne - 1755 from Hahn Plans (Scratch) Version 2.0 (Abandoned) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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