HMS Bounty by Captain Al - FINISHED - Artesania Latina - Scale 1:48

[AAdkins5944]

Captain al just gotta say I'm absolutely loving your build so far. You do amazing work!

[Gentlegiant]

Hello all the Bounty builders , i follow all your build log. I foud full good idea in all the different build log for building mine.Last week i check the instructions and the parts , and i have a question about the single planking with the 2mm thick walnut .Watt do you think off double planking with two kind off strip more thin ?

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[Captain Al]

So a month's gone by without an update to the log, so I'll try to catch it up now.  To begin, although the last few posts I made indicated that I was going to try my best to get away with that misalignment of the sheave in the bowsprit, I have decided to redo the whole thing.  In addition to the sheave hole, as CP pointed out, I put the wrong type of block in some places.  Moreover, if you look closely, I think I've stropped my hearts completely wrong leaving no way to actually rig them.  So, after I finish my masts I will redo the bowsprit.

 

Now, on to the masts.  I've spent the last month working to understand the positioning of each of the little pieces that go into the mizzen.  Don't know why I chose to start with the mizzen.  Maybe cause its a bit smaller.  At any rate, its been 95% of time spent interpreting plans and parts descriptions and 5% fabricating them and dry fitting.  I'm going to try now to show pictures of each part and where it goes, and for the sake of other A.L. Bounty builders, I'll include the part number.

 

This is a pic of the top and top gallant sections (parts 598 and 608) held together by the cap (part 607) and the trees (parts 605 and 606).

 

Here's my completed crows nest platform which will sit on top of the trees, 592 and 593.  It still needs to have blocks added and 10 holes drilled for rigging lines (of which I don't recall the name).  I will also drill 3 pilot holes to insert the bottoms of the 3 stanchions (parts 528) for the railing (part 597).  The kit doesn't instruct or show any holes for the stanchions but I think it makes it much more secure.

 

 

I'm going to stop here cause I don't really know if my pictures and captions are getting into the post at the right places.  I'll post this and see how its doing and continue in a while.

Edited October 19, 2015 by Captain Al

[Captain Al]

So I see I still don't know how to add a picture with a caption except at the end of the post.  This will make demonstrating the whole structure rather difficult, so I'm going to do just a bit more and then read Danny's tutorial.

 

I showed the trestle and cross trees for the upper two sections of the mast.  The trees for the lower to top connection (parts 592 and 593) and the cap (part 594) are close to identical; just a bit larger.  AND, the fact that the trestle tree, 592, has 3 notches.  This stumped me for two or three days.  Three notches but only 2 cross trees, 593, to go into them.  What goes into the 3rd set of notches?  Answer: part 603 spreader (which, if you have the A.L. kit and plan sheets will only be labeled on the drawing of the crows nest, so look closely for it).

 

 

[rcmdrvr]

Looking at your bowspirit.  Beautiful work.  Question....the bowspirit cap provided has the holes at 90 degrees to the surface of the cap.  However, the plans would indicate that the holes are actually at an angle.  I was thinking I would make a jig that holds the cap at the correct angle and redrill on my drill press.  How did you do it?

[Captain Al]

The above photo shows this part 603 with a curve filed into it cause I couldn't get the top mast to sit straight up without it.  I also had to file down the top of the spreader to make it flush with the trestle and cross trees.

 

 

A bit further above in the photo of the railing with its 3 stanchions, note that I mortised the railing for the stanchions to sit in.

 

 

Add text before or after adding the pic?

 

Edited October 20, 2015 by Dan Vadas

[Captain Al]

I'm beginning to think that its my browser or something that just won't let me put captions under the pix.  I've followed Dan's directions to a T but it just isn't happening for me.

[Captain Poison]

You're doing a good job and this is the part that I like most.

 

It is better to take your time studying each part and its function, to not regret later..

Another thing that will make your work more easy is to put only the first part of the mast on the ship, this greatly facilitates the placement of the shrouds and other maneuvers.

[Captain Al]

LA, the holes in the bowsprit cap must be angled for the sprit to point upward while the cap itself is perpendicular to the waterline.  You will then bevel the top and bottom surface of the cap so that they are parallel to the sprit.  And finally, when you drill a hole for the little stick (I don't recall what its called) it should be angled so the stick is parallel to the sides of the cap and perpendicular to the water line.

 

Now I modify that last sentence or two.  Its much easier to drill the hole for the stick first, while the cap itself still has squared corners (ie before you bevel it) and then bevel it.  Much easier to drill a 90 degree hole than an angled hole.  Hope this answers your question.

[Captain Al]

LA, I was confused I guess with your question.  I thought what you were saying was the part came with the holes at an angle and you didn't think that was correct.  Now I see what you're saying -- or asking.  My part was predrilled at an angle correctly.  All I needed to do is drill the hole at the top and then bevel off the top and bottom.  Sorry if I confused the issue.  As for your's, sounds like you got a bad part and to make it right you'll have to do it over with the holes at the correct angle.  Use a protractor on the plan sheet to get the right angle and hopefully you have a drill setup that will let you do it accurately and not visually.

[Captain Al]

CP, good advice as to which parts to put on the mast first.  I've been contemplating that and until your post I thought I'd put all three parts fully glued together onto the ship as one piece.  So you advise against that.  I'm only thinking that to get that perfectly aligned top and topgallant sections onto the lower section, through the trees and cap, it would seem easier to be accurate if it were on a bench and I could use a straight edge to align the parts.  How would you assure that straight line if I do it on the boat after the lower section is in place?  Just eyeball it?  There's enough weight on each part that unless I used CA glue (don't want to) I'd have to manually hold it in place til pva dries it otherwise I'm sure it would slump.  My joints in the caps and trestle trees are tight for the most part but some have a wee bit of play -- enough that if it slumps it will be seen.

[Captain Poison]

If all the pieces fit perfectly, you can work in sections... If you think it is appropriate and more easy place the full mast, no problem.

In my case, the pieces fit perfectly and do not need any type of glue, but you have to be precise..

Another thing to bear in mind and above all, is to have more space to work comfortably,do not place the Rails in the tops, do it to last to prevent damage.

 

Edit:(Tip) When you do the tops of the main mast and foremast, leave a square space for maneuver that held the yard. Because there is not enough space near the masts

Edited October 19, 2015 by Captain Poison

[thomaslambo]

Al,

 

Very clean work on your part      

Edited October 20, 2015 by thomaslambo

[Captain Al]

Muchas gracias.  Very good tip re. the yard slings.  I understand you to mean that I should leave a square of grating open.  That's what the red arrow is showing....right?

 

You've been a great help to me CP since you found my build.  Thanks for following along.

Edited October 19, 2015 by Captain Al

[Captain Al]

Thanks Boyd.  I sure wish I could solve this picture adding problem.  I've been working on it with Dan's tutorial in a second open tab, reading it step by step as I went. 

 

The hangup seems to be that after I upload the picture and then go and place the cursor where I want it to be, and then, I'm supposed to click on Add to Post.  So I move the cursor down to that box and click on it.  That should add an "attachment code" but it doesn't.  Now if I click on submit, I get the picture but its at the end of the post as usual.

 

What are the little black squares at the left margin of the photo supposed to indicate?  Can they have any bearing on where the pic ends up?  Can they be dragged and dropped?

Even after a second edit (like adding this sentence) the picture drops to the bottom.

 

Well now I think I've found a way (drag and drop) to insert a thumbnail where I want it.  But the problem is when you click on the thumbnail you don't get a full screen picture.  Just a slightly larger thumbnail.  And after dropping the thumbnail where I want it I then have to delete the full picture from the post or it shows up twice; once as the inserted thumbnail and again as full blown at the bottom.

Edited October 20, 2015 by Captain Al

[Captain Poison]

Exactly, I was referring to that...as always a pleasure to help!

[Dan Vadas]

I'm beginning to think that its my browser or something that just won't let me put captions under the pix.  I've followed Dan's directions to a T but it just isn't happening for me.

 

 

Al, it worked fine when I moved your last pic on the previous page into the text. What Browser are you using? I'm guessing that's the problem.

 

 

What are the little black squares at the left margin of the photo supposed to indicate?  Can they have any bearing on where the pic ends up?  Can they be dragged and dropped?

 

 

The black squares only indicate that they are Attached Pics, not Embedded ones. Nothing happens if you click on them.

 

  Danny

[Dan Vadas]

BTW - both Artesania and CP have it wrong for the Jeers. They go like through the Lubber Hole. Here are a series of pics of my Vulture showing the correct attachment :

 

 

 

 

 

However, feel free to do it CP's way - no-one said that Artesania have it right all time, there will be more discrepancies with authenticity .

 

  Danny

[Mike Dowling]

Dan you have highlighted a problem I have been trying to work out with someone on another log. To put the shrouds through the lubber hole as you show (and as I did on my Bounty after your advice) it is impossible to get the far end deadeye attached first as it simply won't go through! It makes the seizing of it a nightmare! I would be interested to know the solution to this and hope that C.Al doesn't mind me pinching a bit of his log space. I am sure others would like to know the answer to this dilemma.

[rtropp]

Al,

I had to stop using MS Internet Explorer when posting.  I ran into similar problems and started to use Google Chrome when posting to MSW and it worked well.

 

Richard

[Captain Al]

Lots to remark about.  Thanks first for everyone's input.  And Mike, feel free to usurp space any time.  Its good to hear from you and know your actively building.

 

I'll get to the picture posting issue first -- I'm convinced its my browser (IE10 on Windows 8) and if its so easy to download and install Chrome I'm going to try it.  I used to use foxfire but gave it up when I got this new computer with ie 10. 

 

Now for the real interesting issues.  I had to look up lubber hole and found it defined as a hole in the crows nest platform to allow for easy access.  And it was noted that it was considered quite unseamanlike to use it instead of stepping around the shrouds to the side of the platform.  I don't really see a lot of difference between what CP suggested and Danny's remarks.  I thought CP was simply saying make this lubber hole a bit larger.  Or maybe the lubber hole CP suggests is an additional hole -- because the space between the inside edge of the platform and the mast is not large enough to work the "jeers" (I hope I'm using that term correctly cause I haven't yet found it defined) through.  I probably will opt to do whatever I am able to do.  There is a lot of stuff going on up there and I just want to get it to look as good as I can. 

 

Which then leads to Mike's question to which I have no comment yet and will await something from someone.  I'm still figuring out what blocks and deadeyes go where, so when Mike says the far end deadeye I need to check it out to see which one is the far end and why it is a problem while the others are not.

 

Oh, and Danny, I see where you moved that pic above the text and that is just what I'd like to be able to do.  If you had no problem it probably confirms that its an IE issue.

[Dan Vadas]

Oh, and Danny, I see where you moved that pic above the text and that is just what I'd like to be able to do.  If you had no problem it probably confirms that its an IE issue.

 

 

It most likely is. Try either Chrome or Firefox (both easy and free downloads) - I use both without any problems. BTW - I'm still on Windows XP.

 

  Danny

[Dan Vadas]

Dan you have highlighted a problem I have been trying to work out with someone on another log. To put the shrouds through the lubber hole as you show (and as I did on my Bounty after your advice) it is impossible to get the far end deadeye attached first as it simply won't go through! It makes the seizing of it a nightmare! I would be interested to know the solution to this and hope that C.Al doesn't mind me pinching a bit of his log space. I am sure others would like to know the answer to this dilemma.

 

 

I sent Mike a PM about his question. Here it is for those of you who may get some benefit from it :

 

Yep, it is impossible to get the 2nd deadeye through the gap between the lower mast and the topmast. That's why I don't fit the topmast until AFTER I've rigged all the shrouds and stays. The pics below will show my method :

 

 

 

 

 

I do a similar thing with the topmast shrouds and stays - I leave the topgallant mast off until they are all rigged. I make all the pieces of the whole mast up on the bench before I start fitting anything permanently without gluing the three pieces of mast together. I even leave the Mast Tops off until that section has been rigged.

 

Here's a LINK to the post in my build log of Vulture where I start fitting the shrouds.

 

BTW - the shrouds don't go from starboard to port. They are rigged in pairs for each side. That is, the first two shrouds on the starboard side are looped around the mast, followed by the first two for the port side. Then the 3rd and 4th shroud for starboard, 3rd and 4th for port etc. If there is an uneven number of shrouds the aft one for each side goes from starboard to port using a "cut splice" around the mast.

 

I hope my explanation is what you were looking for.

 

  Danny

[Captain Al]

Very good explanation Dan; thanks.  I'm going to have to figure a way to keep my top masts and top gallants in perfect alignment while the glue dries at least enough to do it for me.

 

I was looking at Peterson's book on rigging this morning and noticed (not for the first time) the numbering scheme for the pairs of shrouds.  I was wondering if there is any reason besides consistency among naval archetects and builders why the starboards are odd numbered and the ports are the even ones.

[Dan Vadas]

I was wondering if there is any reason besides consistency among naval archetects and builders why the starboards are odd numbered and the ports are the even ones.

 

 

Probably because the starboard ones go on first.

 

  Danny

[Captain Al]

Dan, I've been looking closely at your pictures, particularly the last one of post 233 and doing some experimenting with my as yet to be assembled mizzen mast.  When you put each each loop or pair of shrouds over the top of the mast, it looks like you've seized the loop into the shroud.  Is it easy enough to estimate or measure how big this loop should be and seize it off the boat?  Seems easier that looping it over and then seizing it.  And as you put on each successive pair do you kindof turn it a degree or so aft to make it line up with the deadeyes on the channel?  Would you suggest a bit of watered down pva over the whole pile to keep the loops stacked nicely and in the right orientation? 

[Dan Vadas]

YES to pretty much every question/answer you asked.

 

Seizing the loop after it goes around the mast is easier than it looks, especially if the deadeye lanyards haven't been fitted and the shrouds are still loose. Alternatively, I loop the shroud around the mast, use a bent wire through each deadeye to keep them the same length, tie a half-hitch with the seizing line around them, give it a dab of PVA to hold the knot, let the PVA dry for 10 minutes, remove the wires and slip the shroud off the mast, and finish the seizing on the bench.

 

I use Carpet Thread for the seizings. It's a lot stronger than normal thread and has a thin wax coating which eliminates the "fuzzies".

 

  Danny

[rcmdrvr]

Captain Al or Dan....any closeup photos of the bowspirit.  Not being very nautical, I am having trouble identifying the parts that need to be attached.  Any help appreciated.

[Keith_W]

Not sure what photos you wanted to see of the bowsprit, but here are a few of mine. 

 

 

 

 

[Captain Al]

LA, I believe I posted some of my bowsprit further up.  I'll check and see.  If not I will post some.   I'll also take a moment to point out why I'm going to redo the whole thing.  So don't just copy anything I show you.

 

Danny, thanks again.  I've been thinking of using some real seizing line waxed which I have left from my sailing days but its just too big.  And someone once posted that any of the waxed stuff draws and holds dust.  Have you found that a problem?