Ship’s Boat by JSGerson - FINISHED - Model Shipways

[JSGerson]

The oarlocks were made of bamboo pieces just like one would make treenails, about a quarter the width of the soon to be made oars (about 1/32”) and placed into a pre-drilled kit supplied basswood planking strip. Initially the holes were drilled and the oarlock inserted. Their heights were adjusted and then the whole assembly was stained with Early American. The stain temporarily “glued” the bamboo into position. After the stain dried, the excess was cut off from the bottom and sanded smooth. The oarlock assemblies were then cut off and glued into position onto the rail cap locking everything – the rail cap, oarlock plate, and the bamboo with a single dab of CA glue.

[MEDDO]

Looks great!  That is such a massive upgrade over the supplied boat its amazing. 

[JSGerson]

A strip of wood, which I think is called a washboard, was added to each side of bow as well another eyebolt and ring to the bow deck. Also notice that the oarlocks were moved after I was informed that I had inadvertently installed them on the wrong side of the thwarts. As originally installed, the rowers would have to face forward and row the boat backwards.

[scott larkins]

This is turning out very well.

[JSGerson]

The Rudder

 

The kit provided a precut basswood rudder which I used. However, you remember I broke the top of rudder stem where it protruded above the transom.  The two images below show the before and after the break

[JSGerson]

After looking at a lot of small and ship’s boats, I came to the conclusion that most of the boats I saw did not have the high stem post, so I chose to leave it off. Had I straight glued the broke piece back on, it would have remained fragile which would mean I would have had to pin it and risk breaking it some more.

 

All that being said, the rudder was now too tall for what I wanted to do so, the tiller post was cut down a bit.

[JSGerson]

I had noticed that a lot of tillers pivoted vertically either for storage when the rudder was removed or for easier access to the boat. Although I didn’t plan on mine being functional, I wanted it to look like it could move. This required two short pieces to be added to the tiller post. The tiller itself was carved with a slight S-curve.

[JSGerson]

After the pieces were assembled, the basswood parts were stained with Early American and I added paper hinges colored black with a Sharpie pen. Because where the rudder post edge and the rudder edge meet are rounded, it made for a poor mechanical glue point. I added a couple of pins for a strong joint.

[JSGerson]

The final ship’s boat build is shown

[JSGerson]

Here is what it looks like on the Rattlesnake (prior to permanently lashing it down)

[JSGerson]

FINAL THOUGHTS

 

Here are some final thoughts based on a question I received from bandlc4

 

Great build log. I am using it to try and get back into modeling and have a question for you.

You added some wood to “form 1” instead of trusting the plan. Did you regret that or do you still recommend I do the same. I ask because I see that you had some problem with the forward Bow bulkhead after the planking was done and you used wood to fill in around it before applying the veneer.

 

If you were doing it over, what would you do with “form 1”?

 

This was my first small boat build, as well as my first upside down build, and my first Plank on Frame build, so I was learning as I was going.

 

The problem with the kit was that it was a $5 kit (on sale from $8). The Kit instructions stated that the keel was made of airplane plywood - it wasn't. It was basswood, the plywood would have been much stronger. The ribs on the jig had to be bent to form, I would have preferred that they had been cut to shape and there were all of ribs at the beginning and not stuck on later. That would have provided the planking strips with more support and insured proper shape. I would have preferred boxwood which is hard wood instead of the soft basswood. Another builder on the same model started over and replaced all the wood with boxwood and pear. Neither one of us planned to paint the boat.

 

When I went to create the top cap, I realized that my bow stuck out further on the stem than the plans showed. I thought I was following the plans meticulously, but because the plan's pictures were of such low resolution, you couldn't see the detail in the bow clear enough. As a result, my bow bulkhead ended up too small for what I built - my bow should have curved more tightly to the stem and then the bulkhead would of fit (I assume).

 

Although this is a small, "simple" model, I would not call it a first timer's model for it requires some boat building experience. If I had to build it again, and I could because the plan shows all the parts to scale, I'd cut the ribs to shape, which I find much easier than to bend, and add more of them to the jig. The hard part would be to create the additional ribs where the hull curves toward the bow. Not sure how I would determine the correct shape for the ribs there. That would ensure the bow bulkhead fits. By the way, the other builder I mentioned ran into the same problem with that bulkhead.

 

That all being said, it was a fun build and a good learning experience. I hope I answered your question and I wish you the best in your endeavor.

 

Jon

Edited April 11, 2014 by JSGerson

[scott larkins]

For all of  your problems you certainly seemed to recover well.  This small build turned out really good and is a nice compliment to the wonderful ship you've built.  I bow to your mastery.

[CaptainSteve]

I thought you were doing a magnificent job all the way through ... and seeing this build placed upon your Rattlesnake just proves it !!

Great work, JS !!

[JSGerson]

I'm working on the oars, so stay tuned

[robnbill]

I found a neat trick using the Bamboo skewers and some Bamboo forks ( for olives etc). Both were already in my kitchen. I turned the skewers down to the correct size for the oar shafts leaving them slightly larger on the paddle end. Then I cut the bamboo forks down for the paddle. I sanded two opposite sides of the skewer where it would fit into the fork. Glued it all together then finished it with the disk sander. They turned out pretty well. I used measurements for the oars from the AOS since I am building the Constitution. 

 

I also was able to use some of the cut off pieces to shape the rudder and tiller from. Here are shots of the raw material and the bundled oars that I finished. I did not get shots of the build itself. I found these to be easy to work with.

 

You are doing a great job on the boat and were the inspiration for my building the above boat from scratch following your lead.

 

Thanks

Bill

Edited April 12, 2014 by robnbill

[JSGerson]

Boat Oars

 

What is a boat without oars? The kit was for the boat only; any accessories, you were on tour own. I based the oars for this boat on The Art Making Masts, Yards, Gaffs, Booms, Blocks and Oars as Practiced in the Royal Navy and According to the Most Approved Methods in the Merchant Service, 2nd edition, printed for Steel and Goddard, London, 1816. It’s English Royal Navy and published later than the Rattlesnake 1781 commission date, but it was the best reference I had. I’m guessing that any differences between an English boat oar and an earlier American boat oar would be minor and not too noticeable at this scale (I hope).

[JSGerson]

The dimensions were based a chart in Steel for a boat breadth of about 6 feet. Everything was reduced down by about 1/64

 

The materials for the oar were bamboo barbecue skewers and 1/32” x 3/32” basswood for the oar blade. After splitting a skewer to about 3/32: square, a draw plate was used to reduce it down to about 1/16” diameter. Unfortunately I couldn't use the Byrnes draw plate because it was for finer holes only. I had to fall back to my larger pre-Byrnes drawplate which left something to be desired.

 

The skewer was then cut to about 3” in length, and tapered to match the shape shown. A handle was carved on the blunt end. The tapering was flattened so it would slide into a very narrow V-notch in the blade.

The two pieces were then glued. Once dry, final shaping was done to the blade and the whole assembly was stained with Early American Minwax Wood finish.

 

A total of 8 oars have to be made. As you can see from the image below, I completed one; and started the remainder.

[scott larkins]

Wel done.

[robnbill]

According to the Anatomy of a Ship: The 44 Gun Frigate Old Ironsides

 

Here is the shape of the oars. 

 

 

The table below shows the lengths in feet from the charts in the AOS. Apologies but I did do some rounding.

 

 

Boat                                 Handle - A          Loom - B       Body - C    Blade -D     Overall Length

34' Launch                            1                         8                  6                  7                   21

32' Cutter & Barge                1                         7                  5.5               7                   20.5

28' Cutter & Whaleboat         1                         6                   7                 6                    20

26' Cutter                             1                         5.5                 7                6.25               19.75

25' Gig                                 1                        5                    7                 6                    19

 

I hope this helps. It is what I am using to base my dimensions on for the Constitution.

 

Bill

[JSGerson]

That's fairly close to what Steel has (if I read his chart correctly). An inch or two difference at 1/64" scale isn't going to amount to much so I think I'm OK. Thanks for your input,

[robnbill]

FYI, They make some bamboo forks (for olives and other condiments) that make ideal paddle material when paired with the bamboo skewers. Your work with the ship's boat really helped me in my construction.

Thanks

[JSGerson]

I might have tried the bamboo forks, but I did not find any immediately available. The oars were not difficult to fabricate in any case. It's a good idea though. Maybe when I finally build my Conny in the next millennium I'll use that idea.

[JSGerson]

Now the 8 oars are complete.

[JSGerson]

The oars have been bundled and lashed to the thwarts. This completes the Model Shipways’ Typical Ship’s Boat building log. The lashing of the boat to the spare masts on the Rattlesnake’s deck will be covered in my Rattlesnake log.

[Martin W]

That's a nice boat there, Jon.  The oars make a good detailed addition.  I can't wait to see this on the R herself.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[themadchemist]

She will make a beautiful crown to sit atop you 'Snake.

 

Excellent build, thanks for sharing.

[Guest Tim I.]

JSG,

 

I would like to purchase some of these, but cannot find them on Model Expo's website. Do you know of where I might be able to order some?

 

Thank you,

 

Tim

[themadchemist]

Hey Tim

I had the same issues. They don't seem to be linked or at least I couldn't find them. Go to the search and type longboats, you should get 8 choices.

5 sizes of POF and 3 bread and butter. I waited around last year and one month they had them marked down to $2 a piece. I couldn't resist and bought 2 each.

 

PS ME's offer code is AP18 at the moment for discounts

Edited April 21, 2014 by themadchemist

[KenW]

I have a, perhaps, stupid question.  When the ship's boat is lashed to the Rattlesnake, do you mount it on formed masts?  And if so, which masts do you use?

On my Fair American, the lower masts seem quite long to fit on top of the gallows.

Thanks.

[JSGerson]

Per the instructions of the Mamoli Rattlesnake kit, the ship's boat was mounted on the spare Main Topsail yard and Main Topsail mast. What these boats are mounted on, on other ships I don't know because this is my first 3 masted boat build. The mast and yard fit neatly onto the gallows.

 

How they know which spares to take on a voyage I am clueless. What if they break some other mast part or yard? Is it up to the Captain to determine what spares and how many to take? Don't know. Sorry I couldn't help you more.