Beef Wellington Posted March 8, 2014 Share #301 Posted March 8, 2014 Jason, Jim, I'd like to ask you about the 3mm blocks, have you filled down those blocks corners or did you strop them as they were in the kit? Cheers I used a "block tumbler" to round off the edges of the 3mm blocks, it rounds off the hard edges. Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share #302 Posted March 8, 2014 Hi again mates What's your opinion on sealing rope knots with cyano? I'm asking especially for mid to long-term time results. Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share #303 Posted March 8, 2014 (edited) This is my almost final approach for the breeching rope of the carronades Edited March 8, 2014 by Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share #304 Posted March 8, 2014 (edited) I try to deal with those 2 mm blocks but really can not... Such tinny structures, without lateral grooves to help myshelf for the stropping. I give up !! Edited March 8, 2014 by Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 8, 2014 Author Share #305 Posted March 8, 2014 Here my personal modification for making hooks. Thanks. Timmo and Kenneth Powell 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share #306 Posted March 10, 2014 Standing and running rigging in progress... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share #307 Posted March 10, 2014 Temporare placement of a carronade just to estimate how anteriorly should I slide and glue the carrier on the respective sliding bed egkb and Jobbie 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share #308 Posted March 10, 2014 Time for a kind of hair-cut to the elevation screw... Jason, how did you reduce the height of the screw, using a plier or a tumbler tool? Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted March 10, 2014 Share #309 Posted March 10, 2014 Time for a kind of hair-cut to the elevation screw... Jason, how did you reduce the height of the screw, using a plier or a tumbler tool? Thanks again The same wire cutters used on the other brass wire, you do want to be carefull. Top can then be filed to remove any sharp edges. Hooks are looking good. If you haven't already, I'd suggest making up one full set and seeing how they look on the carronade. You don't wan't to make all the hooks and then find they're not going to work. Its hard to tell the size, but you do want to be careful to ensure the hooks aren't too long otherwise there won't be any space between the blocks. drtrap 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share #310 Posted March 10, 2014 The same wire cutters used on the other brass wire, you do want to be carefull. Top can then be filed to remove any sharp edges. Hooks are looking good. If you haven't already, I'd suggest making up one full set and seeing how they look on the carronade. You don't wan't to make all the hooks and then find they're not going to work. Its hard to tell the size, but you do want to be careful to ensure the hooks aren't too long otherwise there won't be any space between the blocks. Copy that, Jason. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share #311 Posted March 10, 2014 The same wire cutters used on the other brass wire, you do want to be carefull. Top can then be filed to remove any sharp edges. Hooks are looking good. If you haven't already, I'd suggest making up one full set and seeing how they look on the carronade. You don't wan't to make all the hooks and then find they're not going to work. Its hard to tell the size, but you do want to be careful to ensure the hooks aren't too long otherwise there won't be any space between the blocks. Well, you're right Jason, hooks are really too long... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share #312 Posted March 10, 2014 .....yes those hooks I shaped the day before yesterday are too long... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share #313 Posted March 10, 2014 I try to use these aftermarket hooks 0,5 mm brass etched, the situation is getting better... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share #314 Posted March 10, 2014 (edited) I still believe that the transformed eyelets to hooks are more authentic.... The point is that i need to cut/reduce their stem to have room for the tackling. I wonder if I can find smaller in aftermarket... Edited March 11, 2014 by Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted March 10, 2014 Share #315 Posted March 10, 2014 Making hooks with the 2mm photo etch "eyebolts" definitely gives a smaller hook (its what I used) than with the 3mm wire kit supplied ones - they come in sets of 250 from CMB. drtrap 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share #316 Posted March 10, 2014 I stil believe that the transformed eyelets to hooks are more authentic.... The point is that i need to cut/reduce their stem to have room for the tackling. I wonder if I can find smaller in aftermarket... Jason, do you mean those 0,3 mm eyelets? C83505 Brass Etched Eyelet 0.3mm (250)Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted March 10, 2014 Share #317 Posted March 10, 2014 Jason, do you mean those 0,3 mm eyelets? C83505 Brass Etched Eyelet 0.3mm (250)Thanks! Yes - those are the ones, got my sizes all mixed up! drtrap 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 11, 2014 Author Share #318 Posted March 11, 2014 Yes - those are the ones, got my sizes all mixed up! Thanks again Jason.. What type of 3 mm blocks have you used for the gun tackling, natural or walnut? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted March 11, 2014 Share #319 Posted March 11, 2014 Thanks again Jason.. What type of 3 mm blocks have you used for the gun tackling, natural or walnut? Cheers. Walnut - they do lighten up when they've been sanded in the block tumbler Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 12, 2014 Author Share #320 Posted March 12, 2014 New kids (0,3 mm eyelets) on the block... I tried to use the aftermarket brass hooks (like Jim) but really no enough space for the couple of them, needed in every side of the carronade. Using those 0,3 mm eyelets I'm ok with the setting of the standing & running rigging of the tackling WackoWolf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share #321 Posted March 14, 2014 I've put and fixed in place the first carronade. Quite satisfied with the result... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share #322 Posted March 14, 2014 (edited) ...and the second one... Edited March 14, 2014 by Stergios WackoWolf and egkb 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 14, 2014 Author Share #323 Posted March 14, 2014 (edited) I start to prepare the tackling. It;s my first time but it seems a painfull story, I'm not sure.... should I assemble it on the deck or not ?.... But above all, the real head-ache is doing the "frapping"... I think that I need at least a length of 15 cm for the running rigging and a knot as a final starter to turn the edge of the line 4-5 times around the tackling... Edited March 14, 2014 by Stergios egkb, mort stoll, Beef Wellington and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted March 14, 2014 Share #324 Posted March 14, 2014 It;s my first time but it seems a painfull story, I'm not sure.... should I assemble it on the deck or not ?.... But above all, the real head-ache is doing the "frapping"... I think that I need at least a length of 15 cm for the running rigging and a knot as a final starter to turn the edge of the line 4-5 times around the tackling... You seem to have it thought out Stergios, its definitely a tedious process but feels so good when complete. The technique that worked best for me was to make up the tackles off the ship first (loosely), attach and then gradually tighten. You are right, there is a lot of wasteage of the thread between attaching the hooks and the actual tackle, but its better to be safe than sorry as its not a big expense. Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share #325 Posted March 15, 2014 You seem to have it thought out Stergios, its definitely a tedious process but feels so good when complete. The technique that worked best for me was to make up the tackles off the ship first (loosely), attach and then gradually tighten. You are right, there is a lot of wasteage of the thread between attaching the hooks and the actual tackle, but its better to be safe than sorry as its not a big expense. Thank you Jason, for the moment I'm studying your technique... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share #326 Posted March 15, 2014 (edited) Ecelent lokking work. Keep the photos Thanks for the comment Aussie048 ! Edited March 15, 2014 by Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share #327 Posted March 15, 2014 (edited) Well, I consider this knot as the key for the frapping.... Edited March 15, 2014 by Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share #328 Posted March 15, 2014 Oopppsss, I thought that a second server crash was on the road... egkb 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 15, 2014 Author Share #329 Posted March 15, 2014 (edited) I'm pretty happy with the installation of the most aft pair of the carronades. Now I can deal with the placing of the ladders of the rear platforms... Edited March 15, 2014 by Stergios Aussie048, egkb, mort stoll and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted March 16, 2014 Author Share #330 Posted March 16, 2014 Hi mates, a basic question about pva glue: are you sure that is contraindicated for glueing fittings on varnished surfaces (deck, etc)?Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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