drtrap Posted June 1, 2014 Author Share #421 Posted June 1, 2014 Started to shape the masts after a preliminary chequ for the balance/inclination of the dowels mtaylor, Aussie048, WackoWolf and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 1, 2014 Author Share #422 Posted June 1, 2014 (edited) I decided to leave the top edge of the 1st component of the foremast and mainmast round like I did for the tenon of the bowsprit. I consider this as less important issue so I can lιve with it Edited June 2, 2014 by Stergios Aussie048, WackoWolf, Beef Wellington and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 1, 2014 Author Share #423 Posted June 1, 2014 In the meantime i've started to tie hearts and deadeyes around the bowsprit. It was so easy to do it after seeing Jason's drawing.... Dimitris71, Aussie048, Beef Wellington and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share #424 Posted June 9, 2014 Current update of her status... I made the deadeyes and hearts collars, I'm pretty happy with the "first in sight" results... jwvolz, Beef Wellington, egkb and 2 others 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share #425 Posted June 9, 2014 Next stop was to fix the bowsprit cap at 90 degrees to the keel.I used this pin to hold it and after all I cut it and left it inserted flush in the cap to provide more stability. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share #426 Posted June 9, 2014 (edited) Dolphin striker pinned in place and protected accordingly.... Edited June 9, 2014 by Stergios egkb and Jobbie 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share #427 Posted June 9, 2014 (edited) Next stop was to place and glue the jibboom. Pre-testing the bowsprit lashing was very easy. I've used the 0,75mm line for the jibboom. Edited June 9, 2014 by Stergios Beef Wellington, Aussie048 and egkb 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share #428 Posted June 9, 2014 Two more pics. Thanks Aussie048, Mirabell61 and Beef Wellington 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share #429 Posted June 9, 2014 I've left the most anterior grating unglued for the mo. I've seen that Jason and Jim (according to appropriate scales and literature) have used a 2mm line for the anchors. A question in personal debate is how much out of scale could be the option of 2,5mm line... egkb, Aussie048 and Beef Wellington 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share #430 Posted June 9, 2014 Hi my friends all those small strips of black paper of 2mm.... to simulate the metal bands etc on the masts. It is about a special type (propably self-adhesive) paper? How did you cut it and apply it so perfectly around the masts circumference?I was thinking to apply rings of 2 turns of 0,75 line instead, I don't know whta's your opinion.... Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted June 9, 2014 Share #431 Posted June 9, 2014 Stergios - take a look at link below for visual (Seems some had mysteriously disappeared from my log which I just corrected). Use the black card included in the kit and cut 2mm strips. The technique I found easiest was to take one end of the strip on back of mast with CA glue, you can then continue to glue around the mast making sure to keep everything square. Tiny amount of CA glue again worked fine. Once the band has been glued around the mast, glue with a small overlap and then trim off with a sharp blade. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/509-hms-snake-by-beef-wellington-caldercraft-scale-1-64-first-wooden-ship-build/page-27#entry121805 drtrap 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share #432 Posted June 9, 2014 Jason thanks for the pics which hopefully are back in you build log. The point is that I can't see any black paper in the kit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share #433 Posted June 9, 2014 (edited) Despite the experienced references to use a 2mm line for the anchors, by looking the crew I don't consider the 2,5 mm line so huge especially as the rope for the main anchors of the ship.... It is my idea? Edited June 9, 2014 by Stergios Mirabell61 and Aussie048 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 9, 2014 Author Share #434 Posted June 9, 2014 (edited) Anyway, I give up. Grating dry-fitted in place with amati aftermarket line of 2mm. I hope that the free edges I left are of sufficient length to tie the anchor after time... Edited June 9, 2014 by Stergios Harvey, egkb, Aussie048 and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted June 9, 2014 Share #435 Posted June 9, 2014 The point is that I can't see any black paper in the kit... Sounds like it got left out of your kit . I'd suggest going to an office supply store and getting some thick black paper as an alternative to contacting Caldercraft - it would probably be a easier solution. I like the look of the anchor rope you decided upon, your Snake really is coming together now and looking great. drtrap 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share #436 Posted June 15, 2014 Foremast cheeks & bibbs glued and fixed in place. Aussie048 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share #437 Posted June 15, 2014 (edited) It was a really good option to plank the lower top mast following Jason's log but using 0,5X5 walnut planks and in a parallel way & fashion.... Edited June 15, 2014 by Stergios Aussie048, egkb and Mirabell61 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share #438 Posted June 15, 2014 Crosstrees and tressletrees dry-fitted. The foremast is'nt totally vertical to the deck, there is a slight posterior inclination, but the crosstrees and tressletrees are parallel to the waterline... egkb and Aussie048 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share #439 Posted June 15, 2014 (edited) There is a difference between the plans and the anterior "opening" of the lower mast top but I hope that this is a minor cause of concern... Thanks. Edited June 15, 2014 by Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mort stoll Posted June 17, 2014 Share #440 Posted June 17, 2014 It is less than that. I had no problem with it. Mort Quote Current Build - Caldercraft Victory Completed - Artesiana Latina Swift, Harvey, MGS Prince de Neufchatel, Imai USS Susquehanna, Mamoli Constitution, Rattlesnake per Hunt Practium, Caldercraft Snake, Diana, Kammerlander Duke William Waiting to be Launched - Bluejacket Constitution Proud member of The New Jersey Ship Model Society Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted June 17, 2014 Share #441 Posted June 17, 2014 I agree with Mort, the gap actually makes life much easier for fitting the slings. I think the extra gap was introduced around this period specifically for that purpose. drtrap 1 Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share #442 Posted June 24, 2014 (edited) Proxxon db 250 lathe was a very usefull option/tool to enable me to mark and place almost correctly the black "metal" strips.... and the respective cleats. Edited June 24, 2014 by Stergios MEDDO, egkb and Aussie048 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share #443 Posted June 24, 2014 (edited) There a slight posterior inclination but the lower top mast is parallel to the waterline. I'm thinking to leave it as it is and glueing in place. Edited June 24, 2014 by Stergios Aussie048, egkb and MEDDO 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share #444 Posted June 24, 2014 Dry fitting of the fore-lower mast egkb, MEDDO, Mirabell61 and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted June 24, 2014 Share #445 Posted June 24, 2014 Looking good Stergios. You're right to get the platforms parallel to the waterline, I found it best to get that correct first as the bibs required a little shaping to match as each mast has a slightly different angle. Not sure if you've made the top masts yet, but I suggest doing that before finally fitting the masts as it's easier to work off the ship with small adjustments - my opinion. I also saw there is debate as to whether to glue the masts, I did and given the slow setting time of PVA glue there is plenty of time to ensure these are vertical. Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 24, 2014 Author Share #446 Posted June 24, 2014 (edited) Looking good Stergios. You're right to get the platforms parallel to the waterline, I found it best to get that correct first as the bibs required a little shaping to match as each mast has a slightly different angle. Not sure if you've made the top masts yet, but I suggest doing that before finally fitting the masts as it's easier to work off the ship with small adjustments - my opinion. I also saw there is debate as to whether to glue the masts, I did and given the slow setting time of PVA glue there is plenty of time to ensure these are vertical. Thank you Jason, I've almost completed the top mast out of the model (pics to follow...). The foremast's lower edge is already dry-fitted/fixed in the respective hole/slot below the deck, with no chance of reamarkable changing of that slight posterior tilting... Do you consider that tilting/inclination as undesirable/abnormal? In my opinion is'nt so important. Thanks. Stergios Edited June 25, 2014 by Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted June 25, 2014 Share #447 Posted June 25, 2014 Are you referring to differences in the angle of the top and lower masts? They really should be parallel, and I definitely had adjustments to do to get it as accurate as possible. I used my eye to judge rather than any scientific measurement. If it looks good to you, that's really what matters as everyone sees things differently. Sorry if I misunderstood your question. Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drtrap Posted June 25, 2014 Author Share #448 Posted June 25, 2014 (edited) Are you referring to differences in the angle of the top and lower masts? They really should be parallel, and I definitely had adjustments to do to get it as accurate as possible. I used my eye to judge rather than any scientific measurement. If it looks good to you, that's really what matters as everyone sees things differently. Sorry if I misunderstood your question. I'm referring to the fact that the main mast is'nt vertical/perpendicular to the deck. Anyway, the only thing that matters is to align the lower mast top parallel to the waterline, from this point of view I am ok... Thanks Jason Edited September 1, 2014 by Stergios Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littlebob Posted June 26, 2014 Share #449 Posted June 26, 2014 Your planking looks really good, nice update. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beef Wellington Posted June 26, 2014 Share #450 Posted June 26, 2014 The masts should all be at different angles, the foremast will be closest to perpendicular, the slots in the keel factor this in. Every think is looking good! Quote Cheers, Jason "Which it will be ready when it is ready!" In the shipyard: HMS Jason (c.1794: Artois Class 38 gun frigate) Queen Anne Royal Barge (c.1700) Finished: HMS Snake (c.1797: Cruizer Class, ship rigged sloop) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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