HMB Endeavour by DaveRow - FINISHED - Corel - Scale 1:60 - First Build Kit

[russ]

Wow!! That is a nice piece of work. Pat is right, it is the future of modeling. 

 

Russ

[DaveRow]

27 minutes ago, BANYAN said:

Now that's the future of modelling   Very nice job Dave, shows what can be done with some modern technology.  Some purists may have difficulty with this, but there would have been the same issue with the introduction of PE way back, and look at it now - a staple of many kits.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Hi Pat,

Not sure about the "future of modelling"

Certainly has a benefit of reuse of the 3D model to produce at different scale/s.

I produced a couple of test Binnacles with the ABS filament, which printed well, then the wood filament was in PLA, a whole different learning curve.

Below is a test 3D print (just after last layer), still on the heat bed. After many changes to settings improved the final print to produce a fairly good final product I was happy with. Still needed some cleanup though, but at least all surfaces were 99% true.

3D printing may not suit all items. Complicated shapes with overhangs fine/thin sections are a challenge.

I printed the Binnacle upside down for the above reason.

I believe the test is to make the item with 3D printer, finish it off(paint, fixings), add to a model and see if it compliments the build in very way.

 

[DaveRow]

Shipyard Update:

Binnacle completed:

The boys in the yard have lashed down the Binnacle in it's resting spot.

Finished it off with a knob on each draw and the vent in the top for the lantern fumes. Well that's the intent.

 

 

Next was to add cleats to the Shrouds.

[DaveRow]

Shipyard Update:

Cleats to the lower Shrouds:

The shipyard took on the task of adding cleats to the lower shrouds.

Tricky little buggers to lash onto the inside of the shrouds.

3 x 2 loops per cleat.

Each cleat had a groove filed to the inside leg to "sit"  over the shroud/rope.

 

Starboard Fore Shroud cleats.

Starboard outer Shroud cleats.

Inner Port view Shroud cleats.

Inner Port Mizzen Shroud cleats.

 

Cleats on the shrouds - picture on the HMB Endeavour Replica at AMM - Sydney

 

[BANYAN]

That binnacle came up a treat Dave; nice finishes.

 

You have also done a very tidy job on those shroud cleats; they kept twisting on me.  Seems you found the knack of keeping them straight very quickly

 

cheers

 

Pat

[DaveRow]

On 2/4/2018 at 4:25 PM, BANYAN said:

That binnacle came up a treat Dave; nice finishes.

 

You have also done a very tidy job on those shroud cleats; they kept twisting on me.  Seems you found the knack of keeping them straight very quickly

 

cheers

 

Pat

Twisting ?

All my ratlines were glued at every shroud intersection, which kept the shroud fixed.

The cleats, held in place with tweezers whilst the middle thread looped and tightened. Then a drop of CA on opp side of the cleat touching the shroud to hold in place. Then finish the 2 outer threads.

Sounds simple ? I've mastered using 2 tweezers(one per hand) at a time.

[BANYAN]

Hi Dave, just to clarify, the 'cleats' not the shrouds kept twisting - not sitting at 90 degrees to the shroud (i.e facing inboard); finally sorted doing it in a similar fashion to you.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[DaveRow]

22 hours ago, BANYAN said:

Hi Dave, just to clarify, the 'cleats' not the shrouds kept twisting - not sitting at 90 degrees to the shroud (i.e facing inboard); finally sorted doing it in a similar fashion to you.

 

cheers

 

Pat

They were tricky little buggers. Glad they are out of the way. I'm onto making the spar blanks now.

[DaveRow]

Shipyard Update:

Yards are on the build:

We're underway making the yards.

All(11) of the Lower, Top-sail, Top-gallant, Spirit, Spirit-topsail & Gaff(off the mizzen) Yards on their way.

I added a block to shape for each of the Stop cleats and Tye cleats.

Yet the construct the outer and inner boom ironwork. Next task.

 

How I added the battens to the mid sections of the Lower & Top-sail Yards.

I used a section of Aluminium tube to square of either end - before round sanding the batten edges.

 

I shaped a dummy mast section to shape the jaw, for a snug fit.

Couple of pictures of the lower end(jaw) of the Gaff, scarf joint with hoops(a wrap of thin black card).

Detail as per AoTS p93

 

Next to fashion the Boom Ironwork for the Main & Fore Lower Yards.

Must ensure the hoops face forward(eh Pat !) for the studdingsail booms.

 

[BANYAN]

Very nice work there Dave; these look excellent.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[DaveRow]

7 hours ago, BANYAN said:

Very nice work there Dave; these look excellent.

 

cheers

 

Pat

Thanks Pat,

I realized after reading Dave Steel - Mast Making section last night, the yards with battens in the middle, the stern/rear batten should be longer. Will anyone notice once they are painted black ?

[RGL]

Um, no, no they won’t. Lovely work Dave, the rope work is outstanding. 

[DaveRow]

Shipyard Update:

Mast Yards - Studding-Sail Boom Irons:

The Main and Fore Yards have Boom Irons fitted to hold the Studding-Sail Booms.

 

Above are the Inner & Outer Boom Irons fitted to one end of a Yard.

 

 

The parts and process:

 

INNER BOOM IRONS:

 

Two(2) sizes of brass tube were cut to make rings, 1 for the Rings(for the studding-sail boom to slide through) and the other for a collar onto the yard itself.

0.8mm bar was used for the neck to join the rings to the yard. According to "Dave Steel" the neck was a square bar, which I did not have. Rod instead.

Each ring and collar has a hole for the neck rod to fit into.

I made a jig to hold the 3 parts together for welding the 4 assembles together.

Welds complete.

 

OUTER BOOM IRONS:

On the end of the yard/s a same size Ring, 90deg. neck and straps are fashioned. 

 

Another jig top to weld a pair of rings/neck bar for consistency. Set ready to be welded here.

After welds done.

 

Above are the 4 Boom Irons for 1 yard, removed from the yard ready for blackening.

Test assembly on 1 end, blackened boom irons fitted.

2 hoops to fit over the end straps.

 

 

[robdurant]

Those look fantastic. So helpful to see the way you've gone about making the parts ready to fabricate these parts.

 

Hope you don't mind my asking what may be a silly question... When you say weld, is that tin and lead soldering / silver soldering or another method, and do you add flux separately or use fluxed solder? I've done some electrical soldering, but never had much success with brass parts... perhaps because my soldering iron wasn't powerful enough. Those jigs look really neat, though, and the result speaks for itself!

 

 

[BANYAN]

Hi Dave; a very good process with excellent results - that yard furniture looks really good.  i hope you are going to add those tiny bolts/pins

 

cheers

 

Pat

[DaveRow]

9 hours ago, robdurant said:

Those look fantastic. So helpful to see the way you've gone about making the parts ready to fabricate these parts.

 

Hope you don't mind my asking what may be a silly question... When you say weld, is that tin and lead soldering / silver soldering or another method, and do you add flux separately or use fluxed solder? I've done some electrical soldering, but never had much success with brass parts... perhaps because my soldering iron wasn't powerful enough. Those jigs look really neat, though, and the result speaks for itself!

 

 

Hi Rob,

Nothing silly going on hear.

I use a Resistance welder, an American Beauty Super Chief 250, adapted to 220v for AUS.

Works differently to a Soldering Iron(where the area around is heated up).

Pat(Banyan) from Melbourne put me onto this system. Imported from USA to AUS. Not cheap.

The 2 prongs(on the hand piece) heat up the area between the prongs in a flash(like in a micro second), and applying/regulating the amount of lead/silver solder creates the joint.

Takes a bit of getting used to, however I am so impressed how fast it makes the joint/s.

The system I have above.

   Kit from www.americanbeautytools.com

Best results I find setting the parts up in a jig, flux the joint where I want the solder to end up.

Touch the ends of the prongs to either side of the where you want the soldered joint.

The current is via a foot peddle(like on a old Singer sewing machine) to activate the electrical current to the hand piece/prongs.

I first starting using the resistance welder in March 2016. See my posts about that time for more info.

Pat has info on his Endeavour build as well. Hope you don't mind Pat for  the ref...

 

And the type of lead/silver % solder makes a difference as well.

 

Hope that all makes sense.

[DaveRow]

9 minutes ago, BANYAN said:

Hi Dave; a very good process with excellent results - that yard furniture looks really good.  i hope you are going to add those tiny bolts/pins

 

cheers

 

Pat

Did you. ??

[BANYAN]

Nope   but yours look so much better I thought I might cajole you into it

 

No probs re ref to resistance soldering.  

 

cheers

 

Pat

[robdurant]

8 hours ago, DaveRow said:

Hi Rob,

Nothing silly going on hear.

I use a Resistance welder, an American Beauty Super Chief 250, adapted to 220v for AUS.

Works differently to a Soldering Iron(where the area around is heated up).

Pat(Banyan) from Melbourne put me onto this system. Imported from USA to AUS. Not cheap.

The 2 prongs(on the hand piece) heat up the area between the prongs in a flash(like in a micro second), and applying/regulating the amount of lead/silver solder creates the joint.

Takes a bit of getting used to, however I am so impressed how fast it makes the joint/s.

The system I have above.

   Kit from www.americanbeautytools.com

Best results I find setting the parts up in a jig, flux the joint where I want the solder to end up.

Touch the ends of the prongs to either side of the where you want the soldered joint.

The current is via a foot peddle(like on a old Singer sewing machine) to activate the electrical current to the hand piece/prongs.

I first starting using the resistance welder in March 2016. See my posts about that time for more info.

Pat has info on his Endeavour build as well. Hope you don't mind Pat for  the ref...

 

And the type of lead/silver % solder makes a difference as well.

 

Hope that all makes sense.

That all makes perfect sense.... I wasn't aware that was even an option at this scale but the results speak for themselves. Fascinating. I'll go back through your and Pat's logs and take a closer look. 

 

Thanks

 

Rob.

[DaveRow]

Shipyard Update:

Mast Yards - Blocks and Parrels:

A bit of an update the the Yards.

Above are the 11 Yards with the various Tye & Stop cleats, Ferules on the ends, and the main & fore fitted with boom irons.

I decided to paint the central areas Matt Black and the outer ends with a cedar wood stain.

 

Next was onto the blocks, ropes and Parrel fit-out to the various Yards:

What has taken a lot of time, was working out the sizes of the many blocks.

Being my first model of this nature, learning a lot along the way, making it up as well...

Many resources have detailed pictures and rope sizes, my kit plans were again useless again in this area.

The AoTS indicates with scale the various attachments.

Using David Steel's Rigging Tables, I hope I have worked out the block sizes to use.

 

Jeer Blocks:

I started with the Fore Yard Jeer blocks - 2 x 7mm double(7mm because this was the size I used for the mast blocks)

Double strops derived from a trial fit around the mid section of the yard.

One completed.

2 Jeers on the yard, temporary fit.

 

The Parrels:

My kit did not have any Parrel parts.

Define parrel: a rope loop or sliding collar by which a yard or spar is held to a mast in such a way that it may be hoisted or lowered.

I noted in Pay Banyan's log, Steve had dropped in a Parrels page from "The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships".

The Ribs being 2' long and 8" wide.

At 1:60 equates to !10mm x 3.4mm in frame size. 2" tick ~ 0.84mm 

Why not use my 3D printer with wood filament to create the Ribs.

I won't go into the process, however printed 3 sets of Ribs, shown above.

They are a bit rough on some of the edges, but after some sanding come up quiet well.

 

Above the Jig for drilling of the rope holes. The top Rib is not formed well, so used as a drill template.

 

The black beads(for the trucks) are 4mm dia, a bit larger than I wanted, and not oval as in the Parrels page from "The Anatomy of Nelson's Ships".

However make use  of what one has on hand.

Above shows:

1. To the right a jig for drilling the 2 holes for the rope to pass through.

2. In front, some Ribs sanded and drilled.

3. Each Rib I stain and later will clear coat.

4. A test setup of the Parrel on a mock-up section of Fore-mast

At this scale, all the little errors disappear.

 

I am concerned though the scale is a wee bit too big, may be fine for the Main and Fore Yards.

Might need to scale the set-up down for the smaller yards.

 

Lots more thought to go into all this yard rigging and fit-out to go on with....

 

[md1400cs]

Dave,

 

Brilliant with parrels. I'm sure that we will see more builders incorporating 3D printing work for their builds. Prices are sort of still out of reach for many, but as with all tech that will change. That said the printers will eventually become an invaluable tool (along with understanding how to use the needed software prompts) IMO.

 

PS: Your work is indeed excellent -glad to be following along and learning as well.

 

Regards,

[BANYAN]

Very nice job on the parrels Dave; the fun part is fitting them   The printed versions look great with a uniform size and shape, and they look just like real wood.  I did find some elongated beads but noting that looked right to provide the small oversize relative to the parrels themselves; your beads look about right at 1:60.

 

I fitting the parrels I cheated a little.  At one end I left a loop which went over the yard end and brought to the centre which simply left one end (two tails) to wrap around the yard.  I passed these back and forth several times within the valley and then only had to tie off one end.  Made it a bit easier but still took a bit of 'practice' to do in-situ.

 

cheers

 

Pat

[DaveRow]

Shipyard Update:

Thanks for looking in on the progress fellow shippy's.

 

Mast Yards - Parrels:

I decided to create a smaller Parrel set for the smaller masts.

The 10mm set seemed too big to wrap around the Main, Fore & Mizzen TopMasts and outer Bowsprit yard.

Below is a 7mm version 3D printed in wood filament, with small 2.4mm brass trucks(balls).

 

Above is straight off the bed of my 3D printer.

I still get a drag of filament between each item, but it is easy to trim off.

The back(the sacrificial bottom layer) just peels off.

A few little holes, but a sand, stain and at the scale you don't see it.

 

A Jig to hold the Ribs whilst the holes are drilled as before.

A trial Parrel set made up.

Ribs ready to drill at the bottom.

7mm Parrel wrapped around a 6mm dowel. 

 

Same 7mm Parrel around a 6mm dowel.

 

Lots of blocks, ropes to go now.

 

Edited February 27, 2018 by DaveRow

[DaveRow]

Shipyard Update:

Main Yard Blocks:

The shipyard has been working on the Main Yard, busy selecting the blocks, adding the rope work to each, then secure to the yard.

Picture below of the Yard to date.

Nearly ready to add to the Main Mast jeers and hoist away.

Parrel and running ropes to add.

 

Above: Main Yard; 12 single blocks, 2 double Jeers, 4 twin(2 blocks each) and 2 Pendant/thimbles.

I actually have made all these blocks at the same time for the Fore Yard.

Each loop tightened once in position on the yard.

Yard Starboard end:

Lift Block (4mm) & topsail sheet block (5mm) stropped together on top.

Yardarm tackle pendant hanging from the end.

Brace Pendant Block (5mm) on the far side. 1/3 length of the yard.

Start of the Horse with stirrups wrapped 3 times around the diam.

Outer tricing block (3mm)

Leech/Buntline blocks (4mm) 1/4 way/point on the yard

Yard Middle:

Pair of Double Jeers(7mm) on top.

Yard Block (4mm).

Topsail sheet block (5mm) with Quarter block(3mm) stropped below the Jeers.

Yard Port end; same as Stb. end

 

And some detail shots of the blocks being made:

Lift Block & topsail sheet block stropped together. 2 each for Main & Fore.

Yardarm tackle pendant, 1/4 length of the yard.

Quarter block with topsail sheet block stropped under.

 

 

Onto the Fore Yard next.

 

[BANYAN]

Looking good Dave; you must be flogging those dockies (or enticing them with an extra rum ration or two)

 

cheers

 

Pat

[rowand]

Beautiful work Dave, it's a joy to watch your build.

 

Cheers,

Rowan D.

[md1400cs]

Dave,

 

Just catching up - excellent indeed. Your parrels look perfect. I need to learn about soldering for my next project. 

I've faved your section for the yards - will return to learn more - thanks for sharing

 

Regards, 

[DaveRow]

Shipyard Update:

Fore Yard:

Completed the Fore Yard a while ago.

A few pictures of the final below.

Well underway with a brass rod to set the length of the horse stirrups.

 

 

 

 

Working at the Commonwealth Games at Gold Coast, so not much happening in the Boat Yard.

 

[RGL]

At least we can win stuff there! I hear the traffics not good? 

[BANYAN]

Very nice work on the yards Dave; brings back some memories

 

Have fun at the games.

 

cheers

 

Pat