Rattlesnake by sport29652 - Model Shipways - 1:64

[sport29652]

So a month latter and here is where I am :

 

I've sanded the hull lightly. I didn't sand it to erase the imperfections instead I think I'll leave some of the beauty marks so once it is painted you will still be able to see the planking joints. Feedback would be appreciated

 

Here you can see some of the beauty marks

 

The camera really brings out the imperfections. Could sand this area some more.

Side view. Some of my work on the gun ports can be seen. I will sand these flush.

So till next time I look forward to your replies

Edited September 3, 2013 by sport29652

[russ]

Overall, the planking looks good. Like you noted, there will be some more sanding, but everything looks even from side to side. Very good work so far.

 

Russ

[ZyXuz]

nice 1st planking.. just need more sanding and filler..

2nd layer shd be a breeze

[lamarvalley]

The planking looks real good Eric, even and solid.

As to beauty marks... hmmm, on one hand is the glassy appearance of a finely sanded and polished hull versus the other hand of rustic and probably more realistic. Either works.... cause she's your build but for me I would go for option one if I could... my reason... I would always look at her and wonder why I didn't keep sanding....

 

Having said that tho... I kind of like the view that shows warts, hell, my SF has warts all over it, just not all of them are actually intentional

[Martin W]

If your aim is to show where the joints are, then I say let the beauty marks stay.  Planking is challenging enough that when you look at your finished model you'll be happy to remember that those are actual planks that you laid down individually.  AND there's always the touch of realism, that maybe an actual ship would have plenty of blemishes as all those starfish bumped up against her.

 

It looks good, and your photo of the gunports gives a nice sweeping view.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[sport29652]

• I'll sander her some more. The transom area needs allot more sanding (as the picture shows quite well). Ive never painted a ship model before  So mentally getting a little stuck on this and how it will look once its done, but what the heck, if its messed up ill sand some more and paint again.  

[Kenneth Powell]

A little more sanding OK. But beauty marks are better.

[sport29652]

Took a break from rigging my San Fran and decided to work a little transom:

 

Looking at the plans it seems as though their is molding around the windows. I use styrene for the molding and got a good result (I happy with it). Debated making a profile scraper to make my own fancy molding but looking at other logs this doesn't work out well with thin wood.

 

Trying to come up with a solution to put "RATTLESNAKE" across the stern. Got some rub on lettering......huge fail. So does anyone know where I could find some appropriate lettering, maybe water transfers decals ? Would prefer slightly raised like etched brass or ???????

 

[Martin W]

Man, I wish I could help you out with the lettering.  I'd really like to do something like that myself, and have thought of carving a raised plate but a) my actual handwriting is so bad that I don't think any lettering I fashioned would be legible, and the wood that the carving went on would probably have to be too thick. 

 

Maybe there's some sort of stenciling you could use?

 

But I do like your molding.  You're right that it adds a good effect, especially with the paint (is that color "ochre"?).

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[sport29652]

Martin, yes it's yellow ocher. I think I'll take a trip to the craft store and maybe find some appropriate lettering.

[lamarvalley]

Looks real good Eric, bold yellow... I like it.

 

Somewhere, I think it was in this forum over the past 6+ months or so, I saw a comment on lettering... I recall they used a template found in the auto-body world for laying on the transom. I recall the letters were embossed on the template or transfer sheet backwards so they transfered to the transom in the right orientation. Yeah, i know... kind of cryptic and not a ton of help but it may be somewhere to look.

[JSGerson]

Now that you mention it, I've got the same lettering problem myself. On my previous boat the Evergreen, I made my nameplate using a homemade decal.. By typing the name of the boat in whatever style/font and color I wanted (except white, you can't print white) on the computer, I could then print it in full scale size on decal paper which I got at my local hobby shop. Then I applied the decal coating (usually from a spray can) and let dry. It was then applied like you would any decal.

 

But if you wanted raised lettering, that's a boat of a different color. One modeler I read about somewhere used vinyl lettering (as opposed to rub-on).Due to the scale, the letters appeared raised. The first trick is to find the right style/font, size, and color. The second, is the task of applying to the model with precision otherwise it will look awful. 

[JPett]

Ahoy Eric

 

I am going to use Dry Transfer Decals on my build.

 

http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/Show/category/DecalsGraphics/page/1

 

I have used these on plastics with excellent results.  I never tried them on untreated wood but for a painted or sealed surface I do not think you will find a better solution. They require a clear coat should you choose this option.

 

PS: She looks great, looking forward to seeing what you do here.

[sport29652]

Hopefully today I will make it to a craft store. Hoping the scrapbooking area will have the lettering. I really appreciate everyone's feedback, ill be hunting for vinyal lettering too.

 

JPETT- the rub on lettering is what I tried, right font, style, but when applied if I missed a spot it tore the lettering. Got so frustrated I nearly kicked my dog.

 

Martin-would love to see another snake build, their is so few of these builds.

[JSGerson]

I did a quick search on the internet and although you can get vinyl lettering down to 2 or 3mm choices of font and color are limited. Ill be curious to see how you do.

[Martin W]

Hey Eric -- I posted an answer to you on JSG's log (hope he doesn't mind too much), but here's a link to the log I started back in the spring, added to a few times in the summer, and haven't done much to since:

 

http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/1048-rattlesnake-by-martin-w-mamoli-kit-bashed-164/

 

Rigging goes SO slowly that once I got involved in basic knot-tying, it seemed like putting up new posts would get very repetitious very fast.  But I definitely agree with you that seeing other Ratt builders at work, and talking about familiar details helps keep up the inspiration quotient. 

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[sport29652]

That's a great build Martin ! Ill definatly be referring to your build when I get to the rigging

[Martin W]

Hey thanks for saying that.  But I gotta tell you that I get myself tangled in knots that I have to undo plenty of times.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[sport29652]

So after hours of searching for some appropriate letters and talking to numerous MSW members I decided to give rub on letters another try. Using scotch tape as my template here's what I got :

It took me 4 hours just to "try" to get the letters some what in line. The curve of the transom and molding made it difficult to get it right. So here's my best shot. As always feed back is appreciated.

Edited September 18, 2013 by sport29652

[Robert Surcouf]

What a beautiful stern.

His Majesties Ship shall capture that rebell ship with all that shall needed

[JPett]

Ahoy Eric

 

Nice

 

As I will be doing the same on my build I would love to hear more about this adventure of yours. I do have some experience using dry transfers, but I have never put together a string of letters this long; which I am sure was no easy task

 

I trust the dog is doing well.

[JSGerson]

In pre-computer days, I made a lot of forms for use in my office, I drew every line by hand and lettered all the text with dry-transfers (rub-on). Multiple copies were then made on the Xerox machine. I know from experience how difficult it can be to get the proper kerning (spacing between lettering), letter angles, as well as proper line justification on nice flat smooth paper. To do this on a wood surface, in a cramped space that curve, on a model boat to boot, is no easy task. My hat is off to you.

 

In my case, I think I might try making a decal. Because I included two molding strips that go across the transom, the lettering would have to go in between them. Applying dry transfers here would be very difficult if not impossible. First I would plan to print the name on a piece of paper to check for size, placement, font selection, etc. and then create the decal. The results are yet to be determined.

[sport29652]

Robert- I'd argue with you but..... your right

 

JPETT- my template was scotch tape with pencil marks to help allign the letters (didnt work to well as you can see) and then applied to the transom. Could have put more though into the pencil marks to get a consistant arch. P.S. my dog is tough, years of abuse has made him into a rock.

 

JS- thanks I refer to your log constantly.

 

well its back to the build and my abused dog.

[JPett]

Ahoy Eric 

 

I must be "rubbing off" on you. What I see does not look bad at all.

 

Unless of course someone is starting to become a bit of a perfectionist 

 

If your not satisfied, just fix it or do it again. you'll only get better at it (That is what I tell myself)

 

If it helps I am currently doing my gun ports for the forth time. When it started to suck I just took a break and played Dota. How I roll.

[Martin W]

Four hours -- whew!  I'd have been screaming bloody murder by then.  Your patience has served you well, and I must also admire your steady hand.  I had a slight and very brief ambition of doing something like this and realized that the letters would end up looking like they'd been painted by a drunken crew.

 

What's this about your dog?  I'd say the one thing more important than a big work bench and a fridge full of beer is a dog.

 

Cheers,

 

Martin

[sport29652]

Here's my faithful assistant :

He's a mix of Bassett and missippi leg hound

[JSGerson]

Because of this discussion on lettering, I chose to try homemade decals for my nameplate. Take a look at my log for details.

[Martin W]

Nice colors on that 1st mate, and terrific ears!

 

Ahoy, (arf to you)

 

Martin

[texxn5]

Looks nice, I am facing the same thing with my Morgan.  It's time to figure out how I'm going to do the name.  It will only be 1/8" tall and lot's of letters in white and then again in gold on the port and starboard bow.  Looking for any assistance offered???

[JSGerson]

See my response on my build log to your query texxn5