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​Take your time and use a sharp V groove chisel The sharper the better making small light passes at first so to produce light curls of wood 

Many light passes are much better than One large blunder and a trip to the wood shop for more timber 

Andy

Current Build

HM Granado CC

Past builds

 HMS Chatham CC, HM Convulsion CC,  Duke William German Kit, Fair American LSS, The Wright Flyer MS

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Hi RAFTERRAT2006

It would be nice to have a name that we can call you. Thank you.

 

The rabbet is not a vee groove for the entire length.  It is a dynamic groove that matches the lay of the garboard strake for most of it's length.  It continues to change as it rises at the bow to match the angle at which the planking will land in the rabbet.   Near the stern it is virtually a vertical "L" shape .  As far as how to make the groove, I start with a vee chisel as described above, but for only a shallow cut.  I then go to a small, extremely sharp flat chisel to finish the rabbet.   Be sure the keel is secure on the work bench so you can control the chisel with both hands.  The attached sketch may be a better explanation.

 

Allan

post-42-0-81196900-1397904067_thumb.jpg

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

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Hi David:

 

Depending o the scale (and your commitment to accuracy), you could take a simplified approach to carving the rabbet. I usually draw the bearding line (which marks the inside edge of the planking along the keel) and then the rabbet line below it. I then score the rabbet line lightly with a #11 x-acto blade. I then use a #10 x-acto blade (the scalpel blade) to shave wood off the keel from the bearding line to the rabbet line. The #10 blade is also useful for scraping along the rabbet joint as you carve. 

 

I was trying to post some photos to go along with this, but for some reason my uploads keep failing.....I'll try again in a bit

hamilton

Edited by hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch)
 
under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

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OK so here are some photos for you David - these show marking the bearding line and carving the rabbet on my build of the Corel Greyhound.

 

Here are the bearding & rabbet lines drawn at the bow

 

post-304-0-63508700-1397975399_thumb.jpg

 

Here are the same at the stern

 

post-304-0-60673800-1397975439_thumb.jpg

 

The bearding line is normally marked on the hull profile plan (perhaps as a dotted line on the cross section drawing) - it runs along the bottom edge of the bulkhead frames where they meet the keel. The rabbet line runs below it.

 

After scoring the lower rabbet line with a #11 blade, I then shave off wood starting from the bearding line until I hit the rabbet line and then scrape or carve the wood out to form the joint.

 

post-304-0-65794300-1397975460_thumb.jpg

 

This is the finished look

 

post-304-0-64710600-1397975423_thumb.jpg

 

Hope this helps

hamilton

current builds: Corel HMS Bellona (1780); Admiralty models Echo cross-section (semi-scratch)
 
previous builds: MS Phantom (scuttled, 2017); MS Sultana (1767); Corel Brittany Sloop (scuttled, 2022); MS Kate Cory; MS Armed Virginia Sloop (in need of a refit); Corel Flattie; Mamoli Gretel; Amati Bluenose (1921) (scuttled, 2023); AL San Francisco (destroyed by land krakens [i.e., cats]); Corel Toulonnaise (1823); 
MS Glad Tidings (1937) (in need of a refit)HMS Blandford (1719) from Corel HMS GreyhoundFair Rosamund (1832) from OcCre Dos Amigos (missing in action); Amati Hannah (ship in a bottle); Mamoli America (1851)Bluenose fishing schooner (1921) (scratch); Off-Centre Sailing Skiff (scratch)
 
under the bench: MS Emma C Barry; MS USS Constitution; MS Flying Fish; Corel Berlin; a wood supplier Colonial Schooner Hannah; Victory Models H.M.S. Fly; CAF Models HMS Granado; MS USS Confederacy

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  • 2 weeks later...

Would it be truly insane to try to use a Dremel router bit freehand? Theoretically that would be the perfect tool, but practically speaking, one slip and its all over.

 

I'd be leaving that well alone Al :huh:  .

 

:cheers:  Danny

Cheers, Danny

________________________________________________________________________________
Current Build :    Forced Retirement from Modelling due to Health Issues

Build Logs :   Norfolk Sloop  HMS Vulture - (TFFM)  HMS Vulture Cross-section  18 foot Cutter    Concord Stagecoach   18th Century Longboat in a BOTTLE 

CARD Model Build Logs :   Mosel   Sydney Opera House (Schreiber-Bogen)   WWII Mk. IX Spitfire (Halinski)  Rolls Royce Merlin Engine  Cape Byron Lighthouse (HMV)       Stug 40 (Halinski)    Yamaha MT-01   Yamaha YA-1  HMS Hood (Halinski)  Bismarck (GPM)  IJN Amatsukaze 1940 Destroyer (Halinski)   HMVS Cerberus   Mi24D Hind (Halinski)  Bulgar Steam Locomotive - (ModelikTanker and Beer Wagons (Modelik)  Flat Bed Wagon (Modelik)  Peterbuilt Semi Trailer  Fender Guitar  

Restorations for Others :  King of the Mississippi  HMS Victory
Gallery : Norfolk Sloop,   HMAT Supply,   HMS Bounty,   HMS Victory,   Charles W. Morgan,   18' Cutter for HMS Vulture,   HMS Vulture,  HMS Vulture Cross-section,             18th Century Longboat in a Bottle 

Other Previous Builds : Le Mirage, Norske Love, King of the Mississippi

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I love my Dremel, but you have to very careful with it. It gobbles up material faster than you can comprehend it. Once the material is gone....it's gone. Good luck.

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Dremel makes router attachements if anyone is interested, (and didn't already know).

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_0_13?url=search-alias%3Dtools&field-keywords=dremel%20router&sprefix=Dremel+router%2Caps%2C176

 

Reasonably priced and would give you a perfect rabbit with just a little practice.

Edited by Pops

Previous build(mostly) - 18th Century Longboat


 


Current build - Bounty Launch


 


Next build - San Francisco by AL


Future build - Red Dragon


Future build - Mayflower from Model Expo

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Hi David, I cheat (oops perhaps I shouldn't admit that :) ) - for POB kits (as per Hamilton's post) I cut the keel away on the backbone wood from the bottom of the rabbet edge down (after marking it out of course).  I then remove sufficient wood from the rabbet area to allow for the total thickness of the planking (bevel the edge) to create the rabbet recess.  After assembling the skeleton (backbone and bulkheads) and sometimes even after the hull planking,  I fit a new keel which in effect creates the bottom edge of the rabbet for the planking.  You can include the stern post and stem in this process also if you wish.  If you do it after the planking, my trick is to dry fit the keel before planking and create a couple of alignment holes in the bulkheads which will align with pins in the top of the keel when they are finally fitted (just leave these holes clear when planking).

 

For me this creates a very clean edge to the planking, and if using a good hardwood, provides a better finished keel (stem and stern posts etc if all are done) in which you can add the scarfs etc-  and who can tell the difference if you don't tell them ;)

 

cheers

 

Pat

Edited by BANYAN

If at first you do not suceed, try, and then try again!
Current build: HMCSS Victoria (Scratch)

Next build: HMAS Vampire (3D printed resin, scratch 1:350)

Built:          Battle Station (Scratch) and HM Bark Endeavour 1768 (kit 1:64)

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I have seen some use a razor blade to shape edges and nice cuts but I haven't been able to cut the marks on the blades very well. I've got to get the v-groove correct which I have to do this very, very cautions as not to take to much off, measure twice or even 3 or 4 times cut once.

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