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BillLib

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About BillLib

  • Birthday 08/17/1955

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Guelph, Ontario, Canada

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  1. Hi, I had a similar issue with a pond yacht. A work associate asked me to see what I could do about restoring one that belonged to his father. I've never worked with pond yachts so I just did some research and came up with what I thought was the best representation of what it may have looked like. My first thought is that you may want to leave that model as it is now. Maybe that it how it was intended to be. Hopefully this link works; https://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/13265-need-some-help-with-pond-yacht-restoration/&tab=comments#comment-405544 Hope it helps. Bill
  2. Hi Ken, I honestly don't remember any OH NO moments. I do believe I've forgotten then all, but what remains is the learning experience of looking ahead for what can go wrong. But I do have quite a few I'M AN IDIOT moments. Those at least can be fixed easily or covered up to not be so obvious. My last moment was on the decorations between the cheeks at the stem. I was using a hot air gun to heat up the metal to make is a little more pliable for bending. One went ok, the second I melted part of the decoration. Well what does on do? Order new ones from Euromodel? Do a little carving for fill in the missing pieces? Maybe a little clay molding? Or, what I did, work with what was left. Gives me something to point out to people where I had an IDIOT moment. I actually like to tell people it was and ID-10-T episode. Bill
  3. Hi Ken, Very nice looking build you've got there. I'd like to recommend an alternate material for the window glazing. I've used Weldbond adhesive for glazing and the results look very similar to your results. It goes on milky white and cures quite transparent. Curing takes roughly 12 hours. I apply it by taking a glob of the adhesive and twirling it around within the window pane cavity with a toothpick. I purchased it at a local hardware store for $3.29 CDN for a 2 ounce tube. Bill
  4. Hi Ken, Hopefully the following images will be of help to you. These are my interpretation of the bow area. Most of my interpretation came from Pete's interpretation plus the wonderful builds on MSW. I did not use some of the metal supplied in the kit when constructing the forecastle front bulkhead, rather opting for wood. Regards, Bill
  5. Hi Ken, This is my interpretation of the upper part of the poop deck. Hope it helps. Regards, Bill
  6. No problem seeing the pictures in post #50. Bill
  7. Hi Ken, Looking good so far. A couple of things you may want to consider. I used blocks for the false guns. When I made the blocks, they were not 90 degrees to the deck. The deck is canted, so I made sure that there was a bit of an angle so the guns were at 90 degrees to the vertical axis of the ship. I'm not sure how you would account for the deck cant with a strip, but you could use the same approach. I also ended up framing each gun port. That way I knew precisely where each gun port was located prior to installing the hull planking. I also did that for some of the gun ports where the port would have been blocked by a bulkhead, by cutting out a portion of the bulkhead and framing it for the false gun blocks. Again, just for your consideration. Regards, Bill
  8. Hi Ken, I'll follow this one as well. Looking forward to your build. It's challenging. Pete's interpretive info on the Euromodel web site are excellent guides as well as Mark's build. Check out the other Royal William builds as well on this web site for tips on building. All that information sure helped me with my own build. You may also want to deviate a little from the kit contents and scratch build some of the parts. Above all, enjoy the build! You'll amaze yourself at what you can do. Bill
  9. Pete, I'd also like to thank you for the work you put into those interpretive build instructions. Great job! I continually refer to those and Marks posts for ideas for my own build. I'm still quite a ways from rigging, needing to finish installing the guns and some more work on the hull. I'm not really a fast model ship builder, nor a slow one. More of a half fast ship builder.... Bill
  10. Beautiful Mark! Hope mine turns out as well as yours. Now I can see what I would like to achieve. I've also purchased hinges from Rick and agree they are nice. Regards, Bill
  11. That might have been me with the heat shrink idea in Kenneth Powell's build log of the Rattlesnake, post #40. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/3656-rattlesnake-by-kenneth-powell-model-shipways-american-privateer/page-2 I'm also following this build log as well since I'm also building the Royal William. I'm not dedicated enough to do a build log, but I'm following all of these great builds in the forum. He's mine so far. Regards, Bill
  12. Well, this is the result of my best guess for what this model may have looked like when it was originally built. My work associate was quite pleased with the results. I enjoyed the restoration, but I feel I could have done a little better with some areas. I was actually finished with this back in July this year. Bill
  13. Bob, Frankie, Druxey, Sure do appreciate your valuable advice and links. Russell Potts also got back to me with good information as well. He mentioned books by Daniel and Tucker, which I was able to find at Amazon as e-book downloads for about 9 bucks each. Lots of information to review and come up with the best guess for this particular model. Thanks again!!! Bill
  14. Appreciate the reply. It is not meant to be a sailing model. Just a static display model that appears to function as it did in the past. Bill
  15. Hi, A work associate of mine has a pond yacht that he would like to have restored to how it used to be at one time. It belonged to his dad, who passed away a few years ago. He has no history of this model. Hull is 30 inches long and 6 inches beam. All there is is the hull which is a bread and butter build and it has split apart. There are a few brass fittings on the deck which can be seen in the pictures below. The mast step may have had a piece of brass tubing soldered on which has most likely been broken off and could be easily fixed up. It was most likely home made, but the keel looks like it could have been commercial. Searching through the internet, I can't find anything that is close,but I should be able to come up with something to approximate the sails, standing and running rigging based on other pond yachts. The only thing that puzzles me is the steering gear. If it had a brain gear at one time, I can't figure out the function of the pin rail that runs fore and aft in front of the rudder shaft. I've already sent an email to the Vintage Model Yacht Group in the UK, but haven't hear anything back from them. I've had some correspondence with someone else who figured the model was based on Marblehead pond racing yacht. Yes, it does have some similarity to a Marblehead, I guess. The puzzler is the steering gear. Would anybody have any idea what it could have been? Thanks in advance, Bill

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