• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Silkjc

  • Birthday 02/01/1989

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Melbourne, Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

202 profile views
  1. Might be a stretch here but every time I come to MSW I click on 'Unread content since my last visit' or as it used to be on the old layout, 'Active threads'. Would it be possible to add a link to this on the main menu bar? Not a huge deal, but a slight annoyance (2 clicks instead of 1) for something I do every day. Maybe others find it slightly annoying as well?
  2. Wow great find Gregory, I think that is fairly definitive! Thank you for your research effort, I really like this sort of digging through history And now to retrofit these on without butchering too much of the model!
  3. That is a very good point, a long with all the other windows on the stern and sides. They appear on the original plans as well. It appears McKay got the correct positions as well, with the third one on the right being slightly obscured. In these though they are depicted purely as a single square, with no inside details.
  4. For any sort of wood, or even brass you should be using HSS not carbides. Carbides are very hard, meaning they can cut high end steels, but it comes at the cost of being brittle. For woods, standard HSS should easily eat it for breakfast. The main reason carbides are used in industry a lot is they can withstand higher temperatures, thus allowing higher cut rates. For hobby rates and materials we should not be generating any heat. They also retain their edge much better, but this is really only an issue when cutting other materials with hardnesses similar to the cutter. If you are breaking HSS you may want to make sure any bits you get are M35 or above grade. Much of the cheapy crap you'll find for sale may be M2 grade HSS or worse. A good indicator as always is price, if you're buying HSS drill bits for $50 it will be M35. The good stuff will be M42, for this expect to pay several hundred dollars for some drills. If you are breaking cutters a lot it may be the geometry of cutter you have chosen is inappropriate for the material. For example, brass is often cut with a negative or near zero rake angle. This prevents the cutter 'digging in' and locally deforming the work-piece. This digging in or grabbing, coupled with the work piece being securely mounted, usually result in a broken cutter. If you have ever tried to drill into a thin sheet of material and it has 'ridden up' the drill, this is exactly what is occurring. Consider using a file to modify the cutter rake angle. Disclaimer: Carbides will cut wood too, very well infact. But they're on average a bit harder to use without breaking, harder to sharpen and more expensive.
  5. That is some great information druxey, and a very nice model. Do you have a shot showing further right of your model? I assume there are 3 scuttles out of shot. Did you do anything other than model the hinges? I am considering making the actual door but at scale on my Bounty it may just appear as a mess, it would be good to see some examples of previous success!
  6. That is super cheap given all the accessories it comes with. Bargain even at 54$. Anyone know any other aussie bargains?
  7. Thanks Druxey, sometimes I wish I had handwriting as neat as the original draftsmen!
  8. Thanks for the feedback bear, you don't know where I might find the original NMM drawing do you? Is it publicly available?
  9. Hello all, I've just started to use my airbrush for most parts I make...and quickly ran into a problem I am sure many of you have faced. When attempting to spray paint small parts, the pressure from the gun simply blows the parts away! My solution is simple, and i'm sure many of you have thought of this before...but elegant enough that I thought it might warrant sharing. Double sided tape the part down using its normal mating surface So what other methods do you all have of arresting small / tiny parts such that they do not decide to go orbital instead of putting on their makeup?
  10. Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Some really nice research there, I feel privileged! The general consensus at the moment is that they are ventilation holes and will run with that. I am still unsure what the small features on the left and the right of the slot are. Perhaps piping? They seem to be circular...Maybe just circular vent holes in a square slot?
  11. Hi guys, I have a question regarding John McKay's drawings of the HMS Bounty. On the quarterdeck railings there are several square cutouts with some other feature on the left and right side of the slot. What are these for? Does anyone have any other pictures of them? I could only find them detailed on the ISO and side drawings provided below, and they do not appear to be visible on the inside wall (behind a square block it seems?). Many thanks, Jason
  12. I was not aware NRG was having to bankroll MSW. I'd love to see the running costs for the website, particularly how much in the negative it is to see how much of the bill NRG has to foot. As I am not an NRG member (approx 100$ a year for AUS), I can't see this from the journal. If I'd known we were running a deficit I'd be much more inclined to donate. As an aside, recurring costs for unlocking features on a phpbb hosting seems a bit rough. AFAIK hosting costs are generally associated with total bandwidth and storage usage. Maybe having the breakdown above would allow people to 'suggest better deals' if they're available? I must admit though I've only dealt with smaller volume hosting providers, and swapping providers is a colossal PITA.
  13. Why bother having it displayed in the avatar? Does being a guild member automatically make people a better modeler thus we should trust their posts more?
  14. Put some bluetac on the end of the tweezers.
  15. We need more threads like this. Excellent work.