Silkjc

Wow that is a really useful drawing Craig! Many thanks! I am going to crunch the numbers and do some drawings to double check then PM Allan. There is much to discuss here but I don't want to pollute the wood suppliers thread Thanks again, Jason

Unscaled it is 98inch, so 6.12 scale inches. Thats 156mm, so a 160x160x1mm sheet would be large enough.

Hi guys, I'm looking to achieve a similar look to the attached image. So i'm looking for two types of wood, in 1mm thick sheet, with a source in Australia (or decent shipping). Any ideas? What types of wood would you suggest? The model is 1:16, the grain needs to be reasonably fine for the nice smooth finish. I am close to floataboat, but I need to pin down some wood types to ask for first.

Resurrecting a little old thread here. I'm attempting to get some photo etching done for some scratch building, having a lot of trouble finding an economical solution though (in Australia). I've tried contacting https://www.etchworks.eu - from their website costs it seems realllllllly cheap. No response to my request for quotation though (1 week ago). I've tried local suppliers, and for an A4 brass 0.2mm etch was quoted $500 AUD. modelshop.co.uk seems to be about 100 pound, similar to PPDLTD which I guess isn't too bad. Anyone found any other options? At this point I'm thinking about investigating laser cutting or NC...will be cheaper but accuracy may be an issue.

Might be a stretch here but every time I come to MSW I click on 'Unread content since my last visit' or as it used to be on the old layout, 'Active threads'. Would it be possible to add a link to this on the main menu bar? Not a huge deal, but a slight annoyance (2 clicks instead of 1) for something I do every day. Maybe others find it slightly annoying as well?

For any sort of wood, or even brass you should be using HSS not carbides. Carbides are very hard, meaning they can cut high end steels, but it comes at the cost of being brittle. For woods, standard HSS should easily eat it for breakfast. The main reason carbides are used in industry a lot is they can withstand higher temperatures, thus allowing higher cut rates. For hobby rates and materials we should not be generating any heat. They also retain their edge much better, but this is really only an issue when cutting other materials with hardnesses similar to the cutter. If you are breaking HSS you may want to make sure any bits you get are M35 or above grade. Much of the cheapy crap you'll find for sale may be M2 grade HSS or worse. A good indicator as always is price, if you're buying HSS drill bits for $50 it will be M35. The good stuff will be M42, for this expect to pay several hundred dollars for some drills. If you are breaking cutters a lot it may be the geometry of cutter you have chosen is inappropriate for the material. For example, brass is often cut with a negative or near zero rake angle. This prevents the cutter 'digging in' and locally deforming the work-piece. This digging in or grabbing, coupled with the work piece being securely mounted, usually result in a broken cutter. If you have ever tried to drill into a thin sheet of material and it has 'ridden up' the drill, this is exactly what is occurring. Consider using a file to modify the cutter rake angle. Disclaimer: Carbides will cut wood too, very well infact. But they're on average a bit harder to use without breaking, harder to sharpen and more expensive.

Hello all, I've just started to use my airbrush for most parts I make...and quickly ran into a problem I am sure many of you have faced. When attempting to spray paint small parts, the pressure from the gun simply blows the parts away! My solution is simple, and i'm sure many of you have thought of this before...but elegant enough that I thought it might warrant sharing. Double sided tape the part down using its normal mating surface So what other methods do you all have of arresting small / tiny parts such that they do not decide to go orbital instead of putting on their makeup?

Why bother having it displayed in the avatar? Does being a guild member automatically make people a better modeler thus we should trust their posts more?

Great to see you're on it again. If you want to reduce the 'toy feel' you could go with duller tones on the blue / red / yellow. Less fluro so it looks a bit more serious.

I posted in another thread the aussie version of that under powered drill dremel thingo. I use it as my dedicated treenailing drill and it is by no means worthless. It saves me 2 minutes changing collets frequently! It does have a fair bit of vibration though so to get crisp holes you need to use a short drill.

Usually when using a bending iron I found it worked best to have the planks saturated. Applying the iron to them vaporises the water and dries the wood out, which allows for good heat transfer to the cell walls of the wood making it 'rubbery'. If it dries out too much I usually apply some more water. If I don't do this it is very easy to get scorch marks on the dry wood from the iron. Everyone has their own methods of doing it, there are some good plank bending guides in the MSW wiki here.

Get a dremel/other rotary tool or forever regret your bad decisions in life. In Aus we have a cheap knockoff brand 'Ozito' which can be had for 30$ which is decent quality and 2 year warranty.

I store mine in a similar way (vase)...however because the vase is short a lot of the taller pieces after a couple of years have a bit a bow in them... Maybe we can use this as a gravity assist pre-plank bender

I drill a hole less than 0.5mm and shove a tooth pick in it, snip off and sand. Very quick. Here are some pics (i'm certainly no master, this was my first build...so it is very easy to do!)

Treenails aside, if you go down the replank route consider looking into adding some features. Look up scarfing, deck plank taper, margin planks, king planks, stepping. It is a lot more work, but if you don't do it you'll regret it once you find out about it It may have been mentioned earlier, but also look up plank stepping. The particular step varies depending on the size and era of ship you're building. It may be a joint every 4, 5th, etc. There are also rules in most these threads (again particular for your build) for the scale maximum plank length.