Rat-Fink-A-Booboo

Members
  • Content count

    43
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Rat-Fink-A-Booboo

  • Birthday

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    West Yorkshire. UK.

Profile Fields

  • Full NRG Member?
    NRG Member

Recent Profile Visitors

157 profile views
  1. Hi Wefalc Many thanks, as I understand it 'quarters' are the gratings - quartered - of which you speak, so you answer my question precisely. Frankie Many thanks. This is precisely what I wanted to know Best wishes Don
  2. Hi Folks, Can any one cast any light on this question please. I am building Mantua's Lynx, Baltimore Privateer of 1812. The kit plans have the hatches on the deck covered with quarters. In my ignorance, I kind of assumed that these hatches would have water-tight covers - perhaps to go over the quartering - does anyone have any knowledge of this please Wishing you all fair winds and a following sea. Don
  3. This is my first build folks so please don't take what I say as gospel. but, for what its worth, this is what I did. This is the first skin of two. The kit is Lynx; Mantua/Panart; 1/64. I formed the garboard strake for both port and starboard sides by gluing together two 1.5 X 5mm basswood strips, clamping them together firmly along their length. I made a paper template running the upper edge parallel to the keel and fitting to the bearding line. The template was used to cut the two garboard strakes as a pair and the edge nearest to the keel was then fared closer to fit before gluing. The strake was not fitted tight beyond the bearding line as it will be shamfered to make room in the rabbet for the outer planking. The space left to fill isn't quite as parallel as it looks in the photo and will probably need a drop plank at about bulkhead 5, and, of course, a couple of stealers in the stern. Incidentally, the dots are pin holes not pins. Hope this is helpful. Wishing you all fair winds and a following sea. Don
  4. Hi Juhu As to the dates these are the two dates that I have for the launch of the Lynx. These also were my very thoughts Hi USS Frolick I was not aware of this book - I must get it. Wishing you all fair winds and a following sea. Don
  5. Hi Brett For what it's worth I agree largely with vaddoc. It seems to me that it is paramount to establish the sheer first (hopefully there will be an indication of this in your plans). On my build (Lynx - Panart) I have put in three strakes with no spilling to establish the bulwarks. The spilling of my planks was then calculated using a planking fan calculated from the bottom of the bulwark. If you then follow the widths given by your planking fan at the bow rabbet it should naturally show where the garboard strake will go. I imagine, however that this will be a little more difficult with a man'o' war, but there must be somewhere on the hull where the sheer can be established. Wishing you all fair winds and a following sea. Don
  6. HI Folks Does anyone out there know whether the Baltimore Clippers would have been copper bottomed. I can't find any reference to copper at all in 'Chapelle'. My assumption is that since copper clad hulls were available in 1807 - 1812 and that the ships were built for speed, a copper clad hull would make sense - but then, they were also supposed to be cheap. Any thoughts most welcome Wishing you all fair winds and a following sea. Don
  7. Hi USS frolick Its the title of a 1966 film that is so unbelievably bad that it's quite good/funny. It should have been called Rat Pfink AND Boo Boo but a typo got onto the posters and the film maker couldn't afford to put it right - the idea still makes me giggle. Oh, just bye the bye, Rat Pfink is a superhero - I'm sure you get the picture :-) wishing everyone fair winds and a following sea Don
  8. Thanks Jaager - what a fantastic idea
  9. Hi Druxey, Jaager, Allan, Jaxboat Woah! Thanks everybody - slammed on the anchors just in time by the sound of things I'd love to plank directly onto the deck supports, but I don't trust them to be accurate. I figured that the false deck would find its own 'true' curves if fixed amidships. The pinning and nailing sounds like the best option - the planking will have to wait and the scarfing and nibbing will just be a bit more fiddly around the waterways. As always wishing you all fair winds and a following sea.
  10. Hi Druxey Many thanks for the tip \i was hoping to plank the deck before fitting, but I guess I'll have to forego that luxury Best wishes Don
  11. HI Druxey Yes and it has no slots for the upper "top timber" bulwarks supports which the instructions say must be removed. Hence the false deck sits on the curved deck supports and runs right up to the waterway. The problem seems to me to be how to clamp the false deck to the curved supports whilst the glue cures and sets the camber and the sheer. i hope I'm making sense Many thanks
  12. Hi again folks I omitted to mention that the bulwarks are 1 1/2 - 2 cm high and have to be gotten over in some way to clamp the deck down
  13. Hi Folks I have in mind a knotty problem. I am building Lynx by Panart. The model requires the building of the gun'ls and then removing the supports in order to accommodate the false deck. This is my first build and I am at a loss as to how to bend the false deck to fit taking into account both sheer and camber. Fortunately there is no tunblehome. Do any of you wonderful people have any tips on how to do this? Thanking you all in anticipation Wishing you all a fair wind and following seas Don
  14. John and Ken, Thanks I'll try a few tests Best wishes Don
  15. Hi there folks Does any one know what kind of wood is best for the outer skin of planking if I want a slightly exaggerated (raised) surface grain. I intend painting my model (Lynx) black above the water but don't want it too smooth. The Lynx was hiding in the Chesapeake waterways when she was captured and I doubt she was done up like a show boat. Perhaps there might be ways of raising the grain a little after sanding??? Thanking you all in anticipation Don