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About shane762

  • Birthday 09/05/1972

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    New Market, MD

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  1. I started on this one and enjoyed it but not too far into it I realized that those thick planks were making it very difficult. I've long meant to return to it but get new wood for the planking. I started a build log on it which, though very incomplete, might have some useful bits of information for you. Mainly as a list of things not too do.
  2. I'll second the positive comments about the Badger. It was my second wooden build and took me about 18 months (I am a SLOOOOOOWW builder) and I love the way it looks. It gives a great impression of complexity once it's finished and rigged but it's a straightforward build. Mike's comments about leaving the cannons off until later are a good idea. I only knocked two loose during the build but it was still aggravating. As far as material quality went my walnut and plywood were ok but the decking material, tanganyika I think, looked like it had been ripped down by beavers with dull teeth. Still I managed to use it and it ended up looking fine. Just involved more prep work and careful attention to which side I was going to use. All in all a great kit that has gotten a lot of compliments over the years.
  3. I can't wait to try this. I'm getting ready to start planking a Draketail workboat model. The hull will be filled and sanded smooth after planking so it's a great test bed.
  4. I've been painting some 1/72 figures of various British redcoats but I have no references so I picked up a used copy of Uniforms of the American Revolution off Amazon. The copy came and was a little scruffier than I had hoped but when I opened it up and saw all the stamps i was pretty happy with what I got. Kind of neat buying a reference book on British military uniforms and it ends up coming out of the Ministry of Defence Library.
  5. Despite UPS's best efforts I received these last night from Cornwall Model Boats. I had back-ordered it about three weeks ago. They shipped it out Friday and it made it to Maryland Monday afternoon. Amazing service from them. They're the metal display stand dolphins from Amati along with Captain Amati and Ensign Amati figures. They showed up accompanied by this beast: Every review or build log of this thing I've read all mention how big it is. So why was I dumbfounded by how big it is? Seriously, I'm kind of afraid of it. If it fell on me it'd probably kill me. I've seen houses built out of less substantial material. I'm planning on building it as the Elephant and upgrading it a bit. Doing away with the dummy cannons and adding a relatively complete main gun deck, planking the exterior in boxwood, possibly adding some cabin detail and opening the doors to make it a bit more see through. I think I'm going to be sending some money Chuck's way for wood, cannons and who knows what else.
  6. You can split the difference and get 3/16" acrylic. I used 1/8" for my Badger case and though the longest dimension is only 30" or I can definitely see a slight bowing in it. I tried purposely to get reflections in the glass on the picture so you can see the difference. The acrylic on the Tiger model is about 28" or so long and is 3/16". No bowing and very rigid.
  7. I'll second that. I've been using the Tamiya tape for years and love it. The only thing I ever use besides the Tamiya is the very narrow 3M pin-striping tape. I used to use loads of both when I painted helmets for a friend's roller derby team.
  8. It's funny. Looking at these pictures I just realized what my mistake actually was that caused me such problems in the bow area later in the build. I thought that I hadn't spent enough time fairing the frame in the bow area which caused it to be too bluff. Now I realize that I set the plywood gunport formers wrong. I think I set the very front of them slightly high which caused them to splay out more than they should have. it's why later on the kit's upper rails didn't fit and why the first hull planks swooped upwards excessively. Wow. Pretty happy to learn something from a mistake I made five years ago on a build that I finished two and a half years ago.
  9. Finished planking. The completely invisible interior deck (orlop?). looks nice though. Fitting the false deck. I've marked out the centerline, points for plank shift and added several parallel lines so that I can make sure the planks are running true. Decking complete. I colored one side of each plank with a sharpie but I used a pencil to highlight the butt after they were down. I added treenails using basswood scraps run through a Byrnes draw-plate. I first tried an inexpensive draw plate from somewhere else but almost immediately realized that cheap really wasn't going to work. The treenails look a bit more prominent in this photo then they do in person.
  10. You really hit the jackpot with that base. I have a Model Expo one on my Badger and it's pretty but your's is really nice.
  11. Ever since Trumpeter came out with the 1/200 Missouri I've wanted to build her. What has always stopped me was the mass of PE that would go into the build and just how difficult it would be to get all those minuscule rails and bits on and attached neatly. Watching your build has done nothing to allay those fears. Your work looks terrific. Very, very clean and precises.
  12. That is just beautiful. I can't wait to see it finished. Your baseboard is great too. I may have overlooked it in the previous posts but is it walnut? I love the striping on it.
  13. You can see in some of the pictures that the wood has some slight splintering on the edges. Sanding removed some of it but it's still visible in spots. Another thing I learned is the value of a good rabbet. While not the worst I've seen, if I had cut a rabbet into the keel this would look much neater. I had a good bit of trouble handling the plank termination at the stern. I probably should have planked the counter afterwards or at least left the bottom run. I was left with a kind of snaggle tooth appearance. I cut the ends of the planks evening them up and inserted a single piece cross ways to fill the gap. it left a nice clean appearance and is almost invisible on the finished model.

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