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  1. Thanks guys for the feedback. Dafi, in your 1st pic I see 3 lines, fairly large, coming down. Do you have a shot of how you did all of them from the inside of the ratlines? Your model looks wonderful. In other words, of the finished model? Thanks Jan for the directions to an excellent build, I don't remember seeing anything quite as stunning as this project. I realize too that sails are better handled from the deck, but how these lines get there is what interests me the most at this time. I think I'll give Mr. EdT's America yet another view. What a wonderful project! Thanks guys for your interest. Michael
  2. About as thick as a big man's arm would be my guess, fairly stout. That's just another reason that I enjoy about watching "Master and Commander", you can get a real idea about the size of rigging. All throughout the movie are lots of closeup shots. Michael
  3. Bingo! This pic is from flick, the deck of the Cutty Sark; Here other shots of rigging running down the shrouds and ratlines; http://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-the-top-deck-of-the-cutty-sark-in-greenwich-london-105044403.html Case closed. Michael
  4. Hi Mike....yes, I think "higher up the masts" is a key phrase with this subject. I've done some searching, further on now, it appears as if the running rigging from the top sails, run down the mast to the main crosstree, then they flare out to run down the inner sides of the lower shrouds, then probably tied off right there at the belaying pin banks. This would be spot on with the ship I'm building. Otherwise, the mast area gets terribly crowded if the all of the running rigging runs all the way down the masts to the deck. Anyway, what other reason would there be so many belaying points and racks along the gunwales, meaning directly below the ratlines? I'll be rigging the ship in this manner. Michael
  5. Hello John and Mark, I've never noticed running rigging being attached to the ship side of shrouds. I wish I could post more uploaded pics that I ran across just recently. John, at this time there is nothing specific to ask, this being a general question. My current project is getting close though to the pint where I have to decide which sails will be mounted, and which will be furled. I'm leaning in the direction of having the gallant yards lowered with furled sails. Great to know of the possibility of using the shrouds for the the top gallant sails. Excellent feedback guys, greatly appreciated. Michael
  6. Hello Members, This link shows pics of running rigging that appears to follow the inner side of shrouds and ratlines; http://www.alamy.com/stock-photo-sailors-furling-the-sails-of-sailing-ship-stavros-s-niarchos-operated-39301266.html I've seen this on several ships on similar websites. I won't upload any pics here for fear of copyright issues. What is their purpose? Which part of a sail rigging do they belong? Thanks in advance. Michael
  7. Why no hoops on upper masts?

    Excellent! Thank you Henry, this clears up any thoughts or misconceptions. Michael
  8. Why no hoops on upper masts?

    On another note, what about the yards? I know for sure the larger yards were built. What about the upper yards, let's say the mars and upper mars? They must of been very, very heavy. Last week, this was found on Pinterest, unfortunately author is unknown to me. This is the best documentation I've ever seen! Michael Michael
  9. Why no hoops on upper masts?

    Henry, wonderful info, thanks much. Even on big ships, like the 'Victory', I've seen no bands other than on the lower masts. Yes, in the city I live in (in Germany), all through the forests are signs of the historical nature of the present area. Along with other info, there is a reference to the mass depletion of forests during the wooden ship ages, hence all forest here have been planted, and the run is very aligned. Exception being the occasional refuge for the monarchy for hunting purposes. These still have natural growth. Thanks Henry for the clarification. Michael
  10. Hello guys, I've never run across pics showing iron or rope hoops around upper masts. How were they held together? I'm building the Occre 'Dos Amigos' and applied rope hoops round the lower fore and main masts. Weren't there any on the other mast segments? Thanks, Michael
  11. tapering masts

    A drill press....wonderful idea, wish I had one big enough. Snow, 600mm is a fairly long mast at 8mm diameter. I've tapered them at 450mm by clamping the dowel in a regular drill, hold it between my knees and in one hand coarse sandpaper, the other a rasp. Using both hands keeps the wobbling down to a controllable level too. Drill at lowest rpm though! For a mast, don't worry about the chuck marks on the wood, this area goes below deck anyway. Upper masts though will need more care, yards too. Same method though, just a bit different technique. You'll see how after the mast ordeal. At 600mm and 8mm, you're probably looking for less than 6mm at the tip. This should be achievable in about 15 minutes. Good luck and let us know how it came out, OK?
  12. Marking the waterline is one thing and fairly simple. Finding, or determining the waterline is a new ball game. I've found no better way than to just eyeball the hull. The Lynx, a Baltimore Clipper type, has two masts. My Dos Amigos a very similar build. No matter which way, it always seems to be the midline between the masts. When this is level, the boat just looks right. So, from the deck, or even the gunwales at each mast, find the level point between the two. Certainly not mathematical or scientific, but I absolutely cannot deduce this line with any of the available equations. The boat just sits right, my opinion, when the fore and main masts at the deck, are level. Nice model RF, good luck to you. Michael
  13. Wow! almost 29,000 members...

    Wonderful, skipper 1947! The forum name is catching, agreed. But actually, I feel to be apart of this already, as a new member. Nautical research....don't we do it with every single build, and every single step throughout? I do. Let's look at the guild history. A craftsman's only possibility of learning, progressing, and actually doing the trade was to be a part of the European wide institution of skilled craftsmen. This institution has been around about 1000 years! Still today, things have barely changed. Beginner, Journeyman, Master. Only a Master Craftsman, be it electrician or plumber or carpenter, can be self employed and hire others. Lots of schooling involved, lots of business to be learned, and lots of private time involved to achieve this status too. This is not a paid way to go, you do it on your own. I did it as a foreigner in Old Europe, and I'm proud of it. Retired now and happy. On the job training. A wonderful method. I see this forum as such, also learn by doing. I'm a master craftsman in that what I do, but I love learning from shipbuilding masters. Michael
  14. Hello Derek, This is indeed a good and healthy consideration. I go through this every time I build a ship. The Bluenose in my opinion, needs sails. Another one is the Cutty Sark, my opinion. Why not the best of both worlds, and apply a stormy sail rigging? I did this on the Cutty Sark, and I love it. The cloth is there, but not like in a light breeze and sunshine. Greetings, Michael
  15. The cooled down mold is now broken open. The investment is fairly soft. Lets have a look to see if everything cast out properly; The mass is just pinched off, then it's best to sandblast the remaining material away. The dust is quartz and dangerous, do not breathe in. I have a suction cabinet; Getting there; Great! No voids, no unwanted clumps of metal. Let's get moving; A high speed handpiece with lots of torque, and a mounted separating disc, cuts off the sprue leads to get the individual parts for finishing; Here the parts finished and ready for further assembly; The finished product upside down, and it looks pretty good; This is meant to be an insight for casting metals using investment for high heat metals. Not a thing for the regular modeler for sure. Just with some preparation and a little practice and guidance, an ambitioned modeler could do the prep work and give the mold to a jeweler or dental type acquaintance. This stuff happens a lot, no problems. I hope Richard you don't mind me posting this sequence. Michael

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