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About Mickgee

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  1. Why no hoops on upper masts?

    Excellent! Thank you Henry, this clears up any thoughts or misconceptions. Michael
  2. Why no hoops on upper masts?

    On another note, what about the yards? I know for sure the larger yards were built. What about the upper yards, let's say the mars and upper mars? They must of been very, very heavy. Last week, this was found on Pinterest, unfortunately author is unknown to me. This is the best documentation I've ever seen! Michael Michael
  3. Why no hoops on upper masts?

    Henry, wonderful info, thanks much. Even on big ships, like the 'Victory', I've seen no bands other than on the lower masts. Yes, in the city I live in (in Germany), all through the forests are signs of the historical nature of the present area. Along with other info, there is a reference to the mass depletion of forests during the wooden ship ages, hence all forest here have been planted, and the run is very aligned. Exception being the occasional refuge for the monarchy for hunting purposes. These still have natural growth. Thanks Henry for the clarification. Michael
  4. Hello guys, I've never run across pics showing iron or rope hoops around upper masts. How were they held together? I'm building the Occre 'Dos Amigos' and applied rope hoops round the lower fore and main masts. Weren't there any on the other mast segments? Thanks, Michael
  5. tapering masts

    A drill press....wonderful idea, wish I had one big enough. Snow, 600mm is a fairly long mast at 8mm diameter. I've tapered them at 450mm by clamping the dowel in a regular drill, hold it between my knees and in one hand coarse sandpaper, the other a rasp. Using both hands keeps the wobbling down to a controllable level too. Drill at lowest rpm though! For a mast, don't worry about the chuck marks on the wood, this area goes below deck anyway. Upper masts though will need more care, yards too. Same method though, just a bit different technique. You'll see how after the mast ordeal. At 600mm and 8mm, you're probably looking for less than 6mm at the tip. This should be achievable in about 15 minutes. Good luck and let us know how it came out, OK?
  6. Marking the waterline is one thing and fairly simple. Finding, or determining the waterline is a new ball game. I've found no better way than to just eyeball the hull. The Lynx, a Baltimore Clipper type, has two masts. My Dos Amigos a very similar build. No matter which way, it always seems to be the midline between the masts. When this is level, the boat just looks right. So, from the deck, or even the gunwales at each mast, find the level point between the two. Certainly not mathematical or scientific, but I absolutely cannot deduce this line with any of the available equations. The boat just sits right, my opinion, when the fore and main masts at the deck, are level. Nice model RF, good luck to you. Michael
  7. Wow! almost 29,000 members...

    Wonderful, skipper 1947! The forum name is catching, agreed. But actually, I feel to be apart of this already, as a new member. Nautical research....don't we do it with every single build, and every single step throughout? I do. Let's look at the guild history. A craftsman's only possibility of learning, progressing, and actually doing the trade was to be a part of the European wide institution of skilled craftsmen. This institution has been around about 1000 years! Still today, things have barely changed. Beginner, Journeyman, Master. Only a Master Craftsman, be it electrician or plumber or carpenter, can be self employed and hire others. Lots of schooling involved, lots of business to be learned, and lots of private time involved to achieve this status too. This is not a paid way to go, you do it on your own. I did it as a foreigner in Old Europe, and I'm proud of it. Retired now and happy. On the job training. A wonderful method. I see this forum as such, also learn by doing. I'm a master craftsman in that what I do, but I love learning from shipbuilding masters. Michael
  8. Hello Derek, This is indeed a good and healthy consideration. I go through this every time I build a ship. The Bluenose in my opinion, needs sails. Another one is the Cutty Sark, my opinion. Why not the best of both worlds, and apply a stormy sail rigging? I did this on the Cutty Sark, and I love it. The cloth is there, but not like in a light breeze and sunshine. Greetings, Michael
  9. The cooled down mold is now broken open. The investment is fairly soft. Lets have a look to see if everything cast out properly; The mass is just pinched off, then it's best to sandblast the remaining material away. The dust is quartz and dangerous, do not breathe in. I have a suction cabinet; Getting there; Great! No voids, no unwanted clumps of metal. Let's get moving; A high speed handpiece with lots of torque, and a mounted separating disc, cuts off the sprue leads to get the individual parts for finishing; Here the parts finished and ready for further assembly; The finished product upside down, and it looks pretty good; This is meant to be an insight for casting metals using investment for high heat metals. Not a thing for the regular modeler for sure. Just with some preparation and a little practice and guidance, an ambitioned modeler could do the prep work and give the mold to a jeweler or dental type acquaintance. This stuff happens a lot, no problems. I hope Richard you don't mind me posting this sequence. Michael
  10. Guys, if you don't mind, Richard asked for links concerning casting parts in brass in his original post, the theme of this topic. I've been doing this stuff for some 45 years. I don't have a link, but from former modeling forum builds I have some pics showing the casting procedure as I know it. The parts here are for a 1:25 scale car or truck model. My models are fabricated entirely from metal, excepting the resin or plastic bodies. Further on I'll show a few pics, the results are truly astounding, very real looking, and real metal motors just look, well real. Here the step by step procedure for investment casting of small parts using the lost wax technique. This is a rear axle housing for a model Peterbilt truck in plastic, as in the kit; The parts have 4mm sprue leads waxed onto the housings. A Bunsen burner and specific waxes are used to connect the sprue leads. When heated up, the wax will melt and a tunnel remains where the molten metal will be thrown into with centrifugal force; The thinner blue leads are for ventilation. It's hot in there, lots of metal coming in, the voids have to be evacuated to make a safe place for the molten metal. Another view. Realize, the axle housing has the front and back already fused together. Inside is hollow, but it's imperative the liquid investment material can flow into the very last crook and cranny, inside the housing. If not, a void exists, and this void becomes after the casting procedure a big clump of solid metal! Not good, and can usually be filed under "failure". Next a ring will be placed around this so that investment material can be poured in. The investment is a powder and liquid mass that flows readily from a rubber bowl, just dump it in; Side view; Here the investment is set, in this case 20 minutes, then pushed out of the ring former. You can see the small 1.5mm vents at the base. These are very important, and help to guarantee a high quality and dense metal casting result; The funnel shaped hole is where the crucible is slid into place when the form is heated up. More brass, nickel, alpaka and chrome/cobalt (a steel) the form is glowing red hot. Same temps approximately for gold, silver and similar metals. Here a funnel to feed the metal, in this case alpaka, or German silver (very similar to brass); A wonderful metal for hobby use. It does not tarnish when cast, and is hard but still malleable for polishing and working with normal hobby rotating instruments and burs. Here the investment mold in the oven, or kiln as ceramic folks say. The crucible has to be heated up as well or it will burst when heat from a torch to melt the metal for casting is applied; Here a "broken arm" casting machine, a centrifugal forced method to cast molten metals, with a torch for propane/oxygen gas mix. Cool enough for lesser metals, hot enough for steels, adjustable; Ready to go. The crucible is in the cradle, the metal pellets have been added, investment mold is situated and affixed, the heat is on; Done. The broken arm spins like crazy and throws the molten metal into the mold. The mols id pulled from the cradle with long pliers and laid away to cool down for about an hour; To be continued;
  11. I have a lot of experience in investment casting, the end result is only as good as the mold you want to reproduce in metal. So here the important part is preparing and making molds. The molds made by xken above really look magnificent. Instead of brass, I like Alpaka, or in the US it's called new German silver, a brass and copper mix. A kilo costs around $50, which would make for a lot of cannons. Here a 1/25 scale Diesel motor for a Peterbilt truck model I did 2 years ago. The motor has a lot of individual cast parts, this pic shows the finished assembly. The silver looking metal is cast nickel, the pale gold is German silver; A ship with a deck full of metal cannons would have considerable weight! The method used by Watson above, would be the way to go for a large number of objects.
  12. I'm retiring from ship modeling

    Hello Mike, I used to think, not long ago, how can anyone just up and quit what they love to do and have been doing for a long time? I understand now where you are, and appreciate your openness, as I'm feeling similar towards other things. Good luck to you, and be good with your decision. You're really not losing anything, but gaining more time for things that are more important to you. A big win. We don't know of each other, but I'm sure it will do you and others well also, when you drop by and have a peek and drop a comment or two. Greetings from Germany, from a now retired Florida boy. Michael
  13. Returning to shipbuilding..

    The wonderful greetings are encouraging, many thanks. So, I'm having a closer look at the Dos Amigos' hull. Some pics are on the agenda very soon. As stated earlier, there was an issue with the bow planking, and I just lost momentum. This was about 5 years ago. The urge is returning.
  14. My 1st wooden ship has long single strips for the 2nd planking. The 2nd ship I used 4 different lengths, staggered. The longest plank is a scale 10 meters (about 33'). This is on a 1:50 model. So, from the deck on down to the keel, the plank run is every 4 layers, redundant. I like the look, and the difficult bends were easier too, my opinion. Plus, there are no very short planks to compensate. I like the look, and the overall planking ordeal went a lot smoother and fluidly than the 'single plank method'.
  15. Wow! almost 29,000 members...

    29K is really a lot of members, amazing. Of course, since I'm new here, and see how many folks are members, I might have to overcome stage fright before I post anything! Really amazing models and talented builders here.