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xodar461

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  1. Thanks for your praise. As slow as I work you may catch up to me! Jeff
  2. Salut! The forward side patterns are now on and I am working on finishing the planking between the wales. Both forward bulkheads had to be finished and placed on the model before the side patterns as they would have been difficult to fit after given the curves of this area (pics 2,3). Note that the aft 2 bulkheads have not been placed. test fitting showed that there will be no problem to fit them after the aft pattern has been placed. My goal is to have the exterior planking done so I can fit the last 3 guns with tackle that are below deck (pic 1, blue arrows). Below, finishing the aft planking between the wales (orange arrow). The door frame (not seen in this photo) was used to allow the proper placement of the planks. Another way to do it would have been to plank up to the opening and glue the frame to the planks. When laying the plank around the bow, I found that there was not a smooth transition from the forward deck planks to the hull plank. The arrow shows that the lower forward pattern edge is visible - not a good look IMO. So I decided to place a strip of swiss pear 1x2 mm around the curve of the bow for a cleaner look. This required some sanding of the finish from the deck which account for the "unfinished" appearance. A final photo of the area will soon follow. Jeff
  3. I would not worry too much if the model does not exactly match the pictures. And I would not move the opening for the ladder. It will just be extra work that is not needed. This area on my model has a 4 mm strip running across the deck aft of the hatch combing. jeff
  4. Time for a new update: The 2 raised upper decks have been planked and installed. This was all pretty straightforward (green stars). I decided to plank the inner bulwark on this deck as I did with the main deck. To support the planks I used MDF from the same pallet as the gunport frames to keep the depth the same green arrows). The planks are 5mm. The cannons will be glued to the deck and rigged with the breeching tackle prior to the installing the quarterdeck. Another modification was to divide the quaterdeck into 2 sections at frame 12 (the one just forward of the whipstaff assembly (red arrow). The work aft of this frame is complete allowing this part of the quarterdeck to be installed at this time. Before placing the cannons, the side patterns will need to be installed so the external planking can be completed. Next photo shows the starboard aft pattern in place. I have also completed the placement aft of the upper wale, leaving a space for the balcony door frame (red arrow). The stern window bulkhead and stern windows are installed before the side patterns. The poop deck side patterns must also placed at this time (blue star). I also had to glue the top the frame 14 (blue arrow) back in place as both sides snapped off during the hull planking. That happened to several frames at the forward deck too. below is work on the aft section of the quarterdeck. this will be eventually covered by the poop deck with a bulkhead at the forward end of the poop side pattern. Both side patterns now in place. I have also placed one 2x1 walnut strip across the upper part of the pattern this acted as a guide to help finalize the position of the black wale below so that there will be the correct amount of space for the colored patterns that will be added later. While doing some rough fitting of the poop deck, I decided to discard beam 14B which goes where the red arrow is on the photo below. This beam has a slight camber and for some reason, the poop deck is twice as thick as the other decks making it fairly difficult to bend in this way. Also, there is part 20A which is not listed in the manual but goes across the forward part of the side panel (blue arrow shoes the notch for this beam). Photos from the instruction manual do not show a notch here. This small camber is not really noticeable so I just replaced the kit beams with 2 from some spare wood (4x5mm). Forward side panels will be installed next Jeff
  5. I don't think that is a "gap" but rather a transverse plank. only the tabs are left unplanked as they slot into the last bulkhead. Many of the decks have this transverse plank up against a bulkhead. Easy to fix you can just lay one of the 5mm planks used for the hull planking across this deck. jeff
  6. Greetings Upper deck work in progress. First pic shows some 1x4 mm wood added to each beam to raise up the cannons relative to the lower edge of the gunports (pic 2). The main deck gratings have also been placed with epoxy rather than CA - lots left to do with this model and I don't want them to get dislodged - thus completing the work on the main deck. When performing these modifications it is important to check that it causes no change to anything else further down the line. for instance two bulkheads sit on this deck and they must align with the top edge of the forward and aft side patterns (which they still do). The instructions call for planking the upper deck almost in full then installing it. Problem here is that there has to be some bending to get the deck in place. This would be difficult fully planked. So a few planks were placed off the ship to get thing started - the aft plank that runs across the deck ship (large black arrow) and the planks that run centrally up to the openings for the bits (small arrows). it is much easier to sand these openings and those for the masts while still off the ship. Once on, the deck is planked almost to the bulkhead frames (which eventually will be removed). Also seen on this deck is the hatch combing which had to remade as the kit's combing was pretty much destroyed when I tried to sand it. This part is made of a wood called dibetou. I am not a fan of this wood as it is VERY brittle along its grain. even cutting out pieces from the pallet may cause the part to split along the grain. Here's a pick of the original part (upper) and the beginnings of the new one. I have a feeling I will be making more scratch parts along the way! The red arrow shows the tiny tab that hold the part to the pallet. grain runs the same way as the arrow is pointing. Below pic shows the final hatch combing Again I digressed a bit from the plans which call for planking the deck and gluing the combing onto the planking. In reality the combing would sit on the beams and planks placed around the combing. This gives a better look I think as well as being more accurate
  7. Gunports are now complete except for the application of stain and hardware. The lower deck gun are now in place with the breeching tackle. In order to get a secure bond, some spare wood was glued to the bottom of each carriage so as to create a larger surface area than just the 4 wheels for the glue. Kit instructions call for just the carriage to be placed with the guns going on later. With the guns in place now, I don't want to accidently dislodge them. They are all pretty solidly in place. I decided to leave the cannons as supplied (bronze) rather than paint them black. Cannons of this age were made of bronze or iron. Also, they are getting a little patina as can be seen below. Makes things a bit more interesting I think. Last item to add to the lower deck are the gratings. In doing some preliminary work with placement of the upper deck, I found that the cannons seemed to be a bit low, even when accounting for the deck planking. this can be seen with some of the pictures of the model on the box. some spare wood 1 x 4 mm was added to the top of the beams and problem solved, However, I also encountered this with the forward side pattern. once again another port slightly off. This gun also sits quite low on the box top photos. I plan to cut out the penciled area and fill in the same amount at the top. This will not have any overall effect on this part of the hull. For now, next up is lower deck gratings and upper deck placement and planking Jeff
  8. Hi. I am one year into this model so please feel free to send a message should you have any questions Jeff
  9. Hi Paolo Thanks for following my log. I am not a very speedy builder as you can see from where I am in this build. Re: the deck plank lengths, I started with a full sized length of 24 FT which is ~ 4.5 inches at a scale of 1:64. I think I decided on 4 inch planks for the model. To make it easy, I would recommend a plank length of 10 cm. This would also make it easy to shift the planks 2.5 cm with each successive plank so joints on the same "beam" would be separated by 3 planks. Feel free to ask any questions along the way. hope this helps Jeff
  10. Planking between the wales now complete (glad to be done with all the complex curves at the bow!). Instructions call for completion of the remaining decks before placing the fore and aft side patterns. This would require placing the lower deck gun carriages without the guns. As I want to rig these guns with at least the breech tackle, some changes in the order of construction will needed. First, I decided to plank the spaces between the gunports so these areas could be sanded and finished prior to gun placement. This would require the wale that runs above the gunports to be laid down first. As this wale runs the length of the ship, the part of the wale that would be fixed to the side patterns was left unglued (second pic, arrow). Also, the instructions call for the wales (lower 2 are 1x5 and the upper one is 1x4)to be glued onto the second layer of planking. I felt that doing it this way this would make it difficult to exactly match the run of the planks already placed. Thus, two 1 mm planks were glued together to form the wale and this was then placed onto the model with spacers to maintain the correct distance from between the wales (first pic, arrow). the lower wales were made in the same way. After the planks were place between the ports, the port lids would have to be redone as those supplied with the kit were dibetou wood and this looked quite wrong against the swiss pear. As the photo below shows, the new port lid was made from 3 planks of swiss pear made to follow the run of the hull planks. As the supplied port lids were all cut to match their respective ports, rather than waste them, they were trimmed a bit and used to make the inner layer of the port lid (illustrated in to photo below. The hinges will be added at a later time. Next step will be to place the lower deck guns with the breeching tackle then construct the deck above. jeff
  11. time for a new update. after the planking below the wale was completed, the waterline was drawn and then painted. this is also the time to construct and hang the rudder. The tiller arm (orange arrow, second pic) is also connected to the whipstaff assemble at this time. The quality of the rudder hinges is quite good. The gunports have also been framed. Next are a few views of the waterline... Below, the hull sitting in my waterline template... planking between the wales is next. while waiting for some additional swiss pear, work was started on the forward 2 bulkheads.
  12. Jond, I have similar plans for my current build of Amati's Revenge - a 3 or 4 mm thick sheet of plexiglass with the waterline cut out that the ship will sit in. While I have not yet purchased the plexiglass sheet, I found this website that has a variety of thicknesses and will cut to size: https://www.eplastics.com/plexiglass/acrylic-sheets/clear Also, I used some large cardboard boxes to get the pattern of the waterline (using a contour gauge) that will eventually be transferred to the plexiglas for cutting. A photo of the template can be seen in my build log and I will soon have some pics of the ship sitting in the template. Took about 4 or 5 tries to get the waterline cutout correct. not sure about what I will use to simulate the water but that is way in the future Jeff
  13. Second planking now complete. the blue tape protects the wale from sanding. no stealers were used. the largest width amidships is 5 mm however at the stern, I used 1x7 mm swiss pear and trimmed it to the correct width. After marking the waterline, painters tape applied to protect upper hull. Below the waterline will be painted white. My ultimate plan is to display the model dropped into a sheet of 4 mm plexiglass which will be used as the base for water (never did this before so should be an interesting project). below is the cardboard template I made that will provide the outline used to cut the opening in the plexiglass. Took a few tries to get it right using a contour gauge
  14. Thanks for your comments. The swiss pear was much easier to work with than the wood supplied by the kit and not nearly as brittle jeff

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