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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. allanyed

    Soldering paste?

    When doing multiple pieces, you would need solders with different melt points, starting with the highest melt point solder first. The next piece to be soldered on the assembly would use a lower melt point paste, and so forth. I have not tried more than three solder temperatures and like everything else, it still takes some practice to get a feel for this, but it does work well. Allan
  2. Eddie, I did some digging but did not find anything concrete in any books or tables regarding how many pieces, lengths, or location and types of the joints. Logic says the longest pieces would be similar to that of the planking, perhaps 20 to 30 feet. In order to keep the grain as straight as possible, the forward most pieces would likely be shorter to accommodate the hard curve without too much cross grain. A hooked or perhaps a plain scarph seems appropriate for the joints. This is all conjecture on my part. Allan
  3. I have no idea if this would work on brass cannon, but could be interesting to try bees wax, turpentine and black pigment powder (like lamp black) as was done on the actual barrels back in the day. I doubt it would be better than blackening, paint, or other options we have today, but if it works, it would lend an air of authenticity and give a bit of a conversation piece. Allan
  4. John You almost have me convinced to give it a try. Does the steam expand the wood? Gluing it in place "wet" is problematic as it leaves gaps when it dries, so I was wondering if the steaming softens the wood without expanding it at all. Also, 1 mm is the equivalent of only 2" thickness at 1:48 . Have you had success using steam for thicker pieces of walnut or other hard woods, say 3 or 4 mm? Allan
  5. Welcome Jeremy, Can't say that I fully appreciate your frustrations but I do feel for you. I did have the pleasure to spend some time off of a freighter at Cape Town, Durban, East London, et al in '66 and was one of the best voyages I experienced. I am told by acquaintances who have been to S.A. recently that it is nothing like it was 50 years ago, but I do hope to make the trek again and spend time in the interior. Again, welcome to MSW and enjoy the ride. Allan
  6. I am now 1/3 through book three of the Thomas Kydd series by Stockwin and am pretty well hooked on the series overall. Darn books are going to cost me though at about $9 a pop and a book a week so far. Highly recommend this series. Allan
  7. Brett It sounds like you are referring to the sprit top mast which is at the end of the bow sprit and secured with a knee and sometimes shrouds of sort. Some carried a small platform and above that a sprit topsail yard with a square rigged sprit top sail. Allan
  8. Jag Keep in mind that there will be several types of boats, each a different length, likely a barge, cutters, a launch, etc. Probably the only way to have boats that are the correct design and length is to build your own. As mentioned earlier it is a fun min project and should wind up looking much better than anything you buy. Resin boats on a wooden ship model?? Ugh. There was a good discussion on the Constitution's boats in 2014 and there were different boats at different times. Pick your poison and have at it. There are great descriptions on building your own boats in various books. I can send you one write up, so if you wish, PM me. Allan
  9. Mae If you are building an Admiralty style model, that is with no rigging, and want to display the model as was done like the old models 200 years ago, they usually show no cannon at all. Rigged models do show the guns for the most part. But, it is totally up to you. I have not rigged a war vessel since 1978 but stop when it is similar to the Admiralty style, no masts, no lines. Even so I do rig a few cannon on each deck as I just like to show some and most people expect to see some armament. I close the lids on most of the other ports and am done with it. If you go this route, you can build a deck of sorts at each level to hold a few or all the cannon. Those on the lower decks need not be rigged as this cannot be seen. Up to you. If you are rigging the model, most if not all the guns would be shown if you want to have a look similar to the old models, but again, we have choices and there is no wrong way, traditional or not. Enjoy the hobby, that is the most important thing. Allan
  10. Thanks to Larry Van Es for his post. I downloaded book one of the Kydd series on my Kindle and so far it is extremely good. Caution though for us modelers. If you have built an English frigate or ship of the line from a kit, the details in the book will be interesting but may be meaningless at times without doing a bit of research. For those that are well read on these ships and/or have scratch built a fully framed plank on frame model, you will be able to picture the details as if you were there. If you rigged a large English warship model you will feel like you are part of the crew, be it in the tops, reeving a line through a block or serving and stropping a new block. Incredible detail to be found in this first book so far. The more you know going in, the more the book will be enjoyed. In reading a bit of Julian Stockwin's CV, he has the creds to make me believe his details are quite accurate regarding some of the things that he describes that were new to me. If there is a down side, his character development leaves a bit to be desired, at least so far. Allan
  11. I don't care what type ship or era one is considering building, this log is worth its weight in gold just on techniques that can be learned. Super job Ed, and please accept another thank you for sharing so much. Allan
  12. allanyed

    Titanic first day under water

    I can picture a variation in a large aquarium with tropical fish going in and out. Allan
  13. Eric Thank you for your treatise. What paper did you use? I was skeptical at first as I was thinking the paper would deteriorate in color and strength relatively quickly so did a quick check on commonly available paper. It appears that high quality alkaline paper will last 1000 years and average grades about 500 years. Acid papers will turn in color and become brittle much more quickly. All in all, a very interesting alternative to cloth or silkspan. Allan
  14. allanyed

    Misplaced Yankee

    Hi Scott, As the father of a son who is about to retire from the US Army after 21 years in Army Aviation and who did five deployments to Iraq and Afghanistan I really appreciate what you have done and cannot thank you enough for your service. I hope that I can be one of this great group of ours to thank you in some small way by helping you along in your new found venture in ship modeling. Welcome to the fray!! Allan
  15. allanyed

    NMM at Greenwich

    Thank goodness the changes at Preble Hall at the US Naval Academy a few years ago where positive, and they still provide easy access to speaking with experts on the many models on display there. Allan
  16. Moxis I have attached my write up that we used in the Euryalus books. Hope it helps. Allan Cannon barrels.docx
  17. Les, The shrouds are usually in pairs that go around the mast, not individual lines. If there are an odd number of shrouds the foremost is cut spliced to make a port and starboard shroud. It is served its entire length. This would go on first, then the pairs would follow starting with the port pair. The section of each shroud pair that goes around the mast is served at the upper portion as well. Volume IV of David Antscher's TFFM series explains this in great detail and would really serve you well in the rigging of your Syren. I concur with most of those above, the loom is useless. Allan
  18. Moxis I have used a similar method with great success and I too add the trunnions separately. I do leave a slight indentation in the master so the casting has the exact same drill spot on each piece, slight off the center line. Drilling without the indentation tends to make the drill want to wander or skip a bit. I also include the cascable and cascable loop where appropriate, but it takes some cleaning up and yes, there is the occasional air pocket to be filled. The main reason I did not include the trunnion is that I used a single piece mold so there is no seam and removing the barrel from a single piece mold is easy if there are no trunnions to grab at the rubber and tear it on the way out of the mold. The seams were always a pain in the neck to clean up so the single piece mold eliminated the problem totally. Allan
  19. These parts and photos are all superb, but the last one is over the top with the detail. Bravo!!! Allan
  20. Samuel Thanks for sharing the photos of your build. Starting with a cross section is a great learning experience. Per Bill's post, I am also curious as to what ship(s) this is based on? Taking the time to make the top and butt planking as you have done is a home run. You do show things I have never seen before, and have me curious such as the wale being parallel to the gun ports especially as it runs aft, the extremely deep keel, and as mentioned above, the aligned ports. Allan
  21. allanyed

    Skipjack rigging

    Frank. I'm traveling this week with no access to the photo file as I am working from my IPad. Please email me as a reminder and I will send when I return next wee. Kevin. Did you already email me about these? I will get these to both of you as soon as I can Allan
  22. allanyed

    Skipjack rigging

    I received a note from Christopher Rowsom, Executive Director of Historical Ships in Baltimore along with Smithsonian drawings of skipjack rigging. If anyone is interested I can forward the drawings (they are photographs in sections of the two pages from the Smithsonian) and/or pass on Chris' contact information. A couple examples of the pieces of the puzzle follow Allan
  23. A square is a parallelogram as well as being a rhombus and rectangle or so that old geometry teacher taught us The angle at the corners can be anything, including 90 degrees. As long as the opposing sides are parallel to each other and of equal length and the opposing angles are of equal measure it is a parallelogram. Is this stuff useful? Sure, but did I enjoy the classes? Not as much as history and geography! Allan
  24. allanyed

    Wonderful site

    Welcome Jim, There are several "starter" projects right here in the MSW forums with cross section builds. Only the simplest of tools are needed and would give you a little experience not only in ship modeling, but on the dark side, scratch building as well. Enjoy your time here, it's a ton of fun, being an E ticket ride (I show my age) in all respects. Allan
  25. allanyed

    Planking Clamp Use

    If clamps must be used the clamp designs shown in the Ed Tosti's Naiad books and build logs are the best I have seen to date. Allan

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