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allanyed

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Everything posted by allanyed

  1. allanyed
    64 I did a couple desk top Armstrong Fredericks in 1:24 and it made for a nice change of pace type project. Give a shout if you want the carriage drawing. Allan
  2. allanyed
    Story For the future, there are 11 high res plans of gunboats on the Wiki Commons RMG site as well as launches https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich. There are more in low res on the RMG Collections including a rigged armed launch. https://www.rmg.co.uk/collections/objects/rmgc-object-85090 Allan
  3. allanyed
    There is a picture of this area on the St. Albans on page 163 of The Master Shipwrights's Secrets by Richard Endsor. His information source is noted at the bottom left. Sorry the overall pic is askew. I rotated it in my drawing program so the cross sections are correct and show a vertical centerline for reference. Allan
  4. allanyed
    Are you looking for Borgard, Armstrong, Armstrong Frederick, Blomefield or some other cannon pattern and carriages? These were all produced over various periods in the 18th century with obviously some overlap/carryover. Ron has been doing a fantastic job of making the barrel STLs available for 3D printing. The carriages also varied in design and construction. Examples follow. Chart of carriage dimensions from 1768 and 1775 are also attached below. Allan 1775
  5. allanyed
    If this is for your clipper ship have you studied Ed Tosti's build log for the Young America? Shrouds are shown about page 78 and ratlines, some pages later. Regarding jackstays (are vertical jack stays something different?) you can use the search bar in the build log topic to find his many photos showing jackstays on the yards. Which book is this by Underhill (he wrote quite a few)? Can you please post a picture from figure 92. Allan
  6. allanyed
    The fenders (skid beams) and steps are on both sides of the ship in most cases that I have seen. Note the two contemporary models from RMG below as just two examples. There are hundreds, if not thousands, of other examples on their website. Allan
  7. allanyed
    Where ever possible I have gone to copper in place of brass. It is softer, so not applicable for everything, but the beauty is that it can be blackened instantly after being fixed in place with diluted liver of sulfur as this will not stain the wood. Brush on the LoS then brush some clean water and wipe dry. Allan
  8. allanyed
    There do not appear to be any marks on the bulkheads for the widths of the strakes of planking. It is best explained in the Articles database here at MSW and in the planking videos by Chuck Passaro https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM Hope you don't mind the right side up pic of your model......😀 Allan
  9. allanyed
    As most kits do not supply spiled planks, in addition to Mark's suggestion, the four videos by Chuck Passaro on planking will help you with the strip wood most kits provide . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM is part one. The end result should look something like the below. Allan
  10. allanyed
    Another great reason to forgo cloth sails as there is no cloth or sewing technique that is to scale if smaller than about 1:12 . Silkspan seems to be gaining a bigger following, and with very good reason.
  11. allanyed
    This looks pretty good! What is the scale? Some kits now have gratings with laser cut holes and they look nice. Maybe include a shallow cut to indicate the run of the battens on top of the ledges as the battens always run fore and aft. Keep in mind that the openings should be no more than about 3" square. A big plus to making the grating first is that you can then fit the coaming and head ledges to fit. If the head ledges and coamings are made first and the gratings sanded to fit, there is the danger of there being open edges as in the second sketch below. Allan
  12. allanyed
    Mediocre Ron's cannon drawings are top shelf and the printed pieces are fantastic. Regarding those for the Connie, did the museum curators offer you any detailed information? Allan
  13. allanyed
    What English and Spanish patterns, calibers and lengths do you have ? Lengths are often a problem. For example designated 9 foot barrels (108") are not 9 feet long overall, but rather closer to 119". Thanks Allan
  14. allanyed
    Dan, I have the draw plate you posted in the photo and the draw plate from Jim Byrnes. No comparison as to quality and accuracy as the Byrnes is superior in all aspects. I use bamboo for many things, including tree nails. I can take most bamboo species down to 0.016" which is the equivalent of 1" at 1:64 or 0.75" at 1:48. Bamboo skewers typically work best in my experience plus they are subtle in color in addition to being at the proper scale. I split the skewers so they can pass through the largest diameter hole then pass the piece through each hole two or three times at a slight angle, then to the next smallest hole until I get to the diameter I need. Donna Byrnes indicates accessories are available so you may be in luck. https://www.byrnesmodelmachines.com/drawplate5.html Allan
  15. allanyed
    Hi Mediocre Welcome to MSW😀. It would be great if you posted a little introduction about yourself in the new member forum here at MSW. As this topic is about Blomefield pattern guns you may want to post your kind offer in a new topic as yours is something else and may attract a wider audience. The barrel in the last photo looks very nicely done, but I cannot place the pattern it represents. Allan
  16. allanyed
    Monique There is a full set of high resolution drawings of the Enterprise (28) 1774 and her class on the Wiki Commons site that you might useful whether you are looking to build a kit, modify a kit, or scratch build. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Ship_plans_of_the_Royal_Museums_Greenwich They are on page 8 and include drawings of the following. Enterprize (1774), Siren (1773), Fox (1773), Surprize (1774), Acteon (1775), Medea (1778), Serpine (1777), Andromeda (1777), Aurora (1777), Sibyl (1779), Brilliant (1779), Pomona (1778), Crescent (1779), Nemesis (1780), RMG There is a set for Enterprise 1848 as well, but obviously a totally different ship. Allan
  17. allanyed
    Snipping off the end of any line can be tricky. I prefer using professional barber shears as they are so sharp, but many folks love nail clippers to snip the Irish pennant once the knot is finished. Allan
  18. allanyed
    Welcome aboard! Is your dory kit the Antscherl designed kit from Model Shipways. If so, you picked the best starter available. With the three kit series, you will learn great skills and habits that will carry over to other very accurate and more complex models such as those from Syren Ship Models. Allan
  19. allanyed
    HI Dave, Cotton does not melt, but dry cotton will burn at about 420 degrees F. (232.22C). Once lit, cotton thread can act like a fuse and continue to burn. Cotton will ignite spontaneously at about 760F. Other sealing methods that you mention have been discussed ad infinitum and each method has its fans and detractors. Whatever you find works best for you is the way to go. Allan
  20. allanyed
    Anything from Chuck Passaro or David Antscherl's three craft series. https://modelexpo-online.com/Model-Shipways-Shipwright-3-Kit-Combo-Series_p_5465.html https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/hms-winchelsea-1764.php Allan
  21. allanyed
    I realize she was not a warship and it may be an OcCre design, but FWIW and maybe for the future, the deck planking shift patterns on British ships, according to Peter Goodwin in The Construction of and Fitting of the English Man of War, page 58, were as follows: He goes on to say that these shift patterns were necessary so the deck was not weak. Allan
  22. allanyed
    This is an incredibly important comment if a realistic model is part of your goal. In addition to the planking tutorials in the Articles data base here at MSW, if you have not already done so, study the four part tanking tutorial videos. Part one-- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCWooJ1o3cM Allan
  23. allanyed
    Fàilte to MSW Gaz!!!! Allan
  24. allanyed
    Hi Paul, 😀Not splitting hairs at all, just genuinely curious about the origins of terminology in the various eras and how, why and when some terms changed. Cheers Allan
  25. allanyed
    Just saw this post string and it brings up a terminology question as it was confusing in the first post. On English ships of the 17th century and into the 19th century (maybe earlier and later??) lights at the galleries and stern are the windows, not lamps or lanterns. Did this change circa 1855 as Pat mentions above such that the lanterns and lanterns on clipper and other ships were then called lights and the lights became known as windows or some other term such as bullseyes and portholes? Not a major thing, just curious. Tx Allan

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