James H

The first things that are built up are the intake gearbox and the first stage low pressure compressor. There are bearings and gearings on these which enable them to lock into place as you progress. I also use a very small spot of thread-lock too; the sort that can easily be cracked if necessary. The low pressure stator housing is now assembled. No fixings here. All of these parts sit neatly in their respective slots, and care is needed to make sure they remain in situ during final assembly. The intermediate receiver assembly is the next section to be built up. All of these parts are built 'dry' at this stage, but will later be packed out with grease for lubrication. More soon!

1:10 Military Turbofan engine - TECHING Available from EngineDIY for $799.99 This new kit from Teching, is based on the Pratt & Whitney F135 turbofan engine, that powers the Lockheed Martin F-135 Lightning II. A turbofan or fanjet is a type of air-breathing jet engine that is widely used in aircraft propulsion. The word "turbofan" is a combination of the preceding generation engine technology of the turbojet, and a reference to the additional fan stage added. It consists of a gas turbine engine which achieves mechanical energy from combustion, and a ducted fan that uses the mechanical energy from the gas turbine to force air rearwards. Thus, whereas all the air taken in by a turbojet passes through the combustion chamber and turbines, in a turbofan some of that air bypasses these components. A turbofan thus can be thought of as a turbojet being used to drive a ducted fan, with both of these contributing to the thrust. Animation of a 2-spool, high-bypass turbofan A. Low-pressure spool B. High-pressure spool C. Stationary components 1. Nacelle 2. Fan 3. Low-pressure compressor 4. High-pressure compressor 5. Combustion chamber 6. High-pressure turbine 7. Low-pressure turbine 8. Core nozzle 9. Fan nozzle The turbofan was invented to improve the fuel consumption of the turbojet. It achieves this by pushing more air, thus increasing the mass and lowering the speed of the propelling jet compared to that of the turbojet. This is done mechanically by adding a ducted fan rather than using forces by adding an ejector, as first envisaged by Whittle. (Information abridged from Wikipedia) The kit As with the previous turbofan engine I reviewed here, this comes in a very sturdy box that contains FOUR trays of precision machined parts, including two trays of bolts, bearings, nuts, washers, and a small number or specific parts that are machined for this release. The instruction manual is superb, being printed in a glossy 90-page format. As well as the step by step instructions of the assembly of each engine stage, you are also presented with an illustrated parts list, operating instructions, and a list of safety precautions. This kit does come with a small selection of tools, such as wrenches and hex drivers. However, I opted to use my Wera tools for the main part. I'll start to post my assembly of this engine tomorrow.

What a beautiful job you've made of this. Makes me feel nostalgic for the one I built.

Way beyond superb!!

I reckon a few barrels and some sacks and it'd really bring it to life.

As there's nothing really interesting in showing shroud lines etc. added, I'll now wrap up this log by showing you some photos of the completed model. Watch out for this on pre-order very soon. In all, this is a highly detailed and very friendly model to build. Definitely in terms of hull shape and rig accessibility whilst on the bench. We're absolutely confident that you'll enjoy building this gorgeous ship and you putting your own stamp on her.

For the time, I'm locking this topic. Nothing is imminent with resurrecting this project.

There are a small number of things which stalled this build, regarding contents. Those are between Amati and myself at this stage of the project.

No. Only if they are rip off copies of legitimate designs. Please don't spread that misinformation here. There are legitimate Chinese kits, and as you have that wrong belief, I assume you have gained that information on different shores to MSW.

That was a hell of a save! Congrats on the sale too. Well deserved.

I have one of the lighting sets here, and they are very nice. Here's a photo.

That is stunning, beyond words. If I'd built that, I'd retire my tools. Simply gorgeous.

Ok, I've pruned this topic, but left Chris's last post where he quotes Vane. Vane's post was pertinent. From here, let's get back to usual business and not sermons from old, dusty journals on the minutiae of armament on 18th century seafaring vessels.

These are a couple of photos of my setup. All of the bench storage is from HobbyZone in Poland.

I consider Tamiya Fine Surface Primer to be one of the very best around. If the Mr Surfacer equivalent isn't banned, then that is every bit as good.

😆

That's exactly what it is.

I can tell you that we’ll have an in-box review in a couple of weeks or so.

Remember that this kit will have been developed at the same time as another Vic kit from this year. That isn't the fault of any company. AL seem to be offering something akin to the original cutaway Bounty kit they once did, but on steroids. Fair play. If it appeals, then give it a try. Choice is good.

This is likely to be my penultimate update as the next one should show this rigged and finished. That'll be a nice way to conclude this, so until this, these are a few photos of Harpy's masting, including some photos of the yards, gaff, boom, spritsail yard and the completed bowsprit. I've concluded this with a photo of Harpy as she currently looks. No text is really needed for this as the photos are self-explanatory and perfectly follow the convention you've seen in other VM build logs. Hope you like the results so far. ]

Very pretty! Are you fully masting and rigging?

I refer you to this post:

Come on, at least one clue? 😆

Chain pump.

A pin pusher isn't a precision tool. It's just for slapping in brass pins anywhere along the place where the joint is. There's a knack to using one quickly so you get the pins roughly where you need them. The Modelcraft pin pusher works real well and of course you can set it so it doesn't push all the way into the wood. Quite neat.