James H

Update time. As you've seen recently, I've been doing the coppering using 6mm tape, cut into 18mm lengths. It's a little tedious, but perhaps less so that using PE, and it's also a little quicker. I coppered the hull in around 4 less than full days. There's no double banding on this.....just complete from keel to waterline. When all done, the copper was buffed down using cotton buds. The coppering was added above the slightly (and intentionally) lower waterline I added in silver pencil onto the black hull. I figured that adding a good two levels above that would be a reasonable indicator of 'enough'. It was as planned. With the copper added, I set the waterline tool again so I could draw along the copper plates this time. It needs to be remembered the the stern of this sits a little lower in the water than the bow, with the waterline increasing in depth from around 90mm to 95mm, bow to stern, along the full hull length.....so not parallel with the lower keel. With that done, I ran a fresh scalpel along the whole pencil line and peeled off the excess above the line. The keel and stern edges were then coppered too. The rudder is a very simple affair. I'm actually coppering this at the moment, but don't have those photos yet. The headrails are built up from various laminates of pear, and there are other single piece rails. All have engravings which must be painted in ochre, whilst the main colour is obviously black.

Pinned!

That's real useful info. I might just go with that!

I do have several bottles of that stuff, but I'm thinking something that imparts an eggshell finish and is more suited specifically to copper. Future is a gloss finish, and not too much for scale.

I work as a Senior Tech in local government.

I'll do a proper update this weekend, but here's a quick phone photo of the coppered and trimmed hull. Other work I've been doing is finishing up the 24' cutter, painting the timberhead rails and building channels...as well as many other things. She will come together pretty quickly, but I do need to protect this copper from tarnishing.

That is sort of ongoing as a possible plugin. Our forum uses proprietary software, and although we can make amendments etc. these things are best done by uploading as an app/module, and not by tinkering with pages of code that aren't ours.

I think here is fine. Many people will have seen it here and can continue following.

No, nothing has changed. It's as it's shown. I removed some char from top of parts, so things will look different.

Grecial sure has nice lines!

No, we have nothing that can do that, or access via third-party plugins. Browsers are generally equipped to export as either a web page or PDF, and also to print whole pages you are on. It make take time over a large build log, but there's nothing we can do about that. We keep several backups of MSW at all times, and backups are made 4 times per week, into several different locations. If you feel you need to back up your build log, for whatever reason, you'll have to do this manually.

I think the point of this is that Chris has made it abundantly clear many times what his plans are with regard to his larger naval vessels (period etc), and that countless requests for ironclads and yachts, as well as the multitude of typically unknown vessels, simply won't fly. Discussion should revolve around announcements/releases etc. On this note, Chris has asked me to lock this topic so he can start a fresh one. This one is currently 78 pages!

The forum software won't cater to that, but it's easy enough through your browser. Ok, I'm using Safari on Mac here, but this should be available on most, if not all browsers. Just export each page as a PDF and save to your computer.

It's defo there. Try on an updated browser. Works for me on Chroma, Safari and Firefox.

I would paint the swastika first, using masks, then add the hardware over it and paint. BUT, Amati have supplied the kit with the last known iteration before it was sunk. At that time it had no swastikas. They were painted over.

It's great to see you back! You were one of the very first members of MSW 1.0!!

***Please note*** Any further posts regarding chain pumps will be deleted from hereon in. It's superfluous to the discussion and serves only to derail what I'm trying to achieve here. I've even received PMs demanding to know why I removed member's posts after me needing to cull my topic (for the third time!). It must stop. Now.

This is a beading tool. Used by jewellers for making indent patterns etc.

You're welcome. We did used to have one a while ago but the software was never updated to fit the core forum software version we were running, and it simply stopped working, so we removed it.

I must admit that the thought of running a rivet tool, freehand over the hull, would fill me with dread. If I opt to rivet the hull, I think I'll do one plate at a time with a beading tool. I'm quite used to that method for adding rivet lines to large 1:32 airframes.

Ok, I have added a tool which will take you straight back to the top of the page which will help if you had to scroll a long way. When you start to roll down a page, you will now see a black 'Up Arrow' in the bottom right of the screen. Press that and you'll be taken to the top again.

It certainly works faster and is more forgiving. If I get a plate slightly wrong, I can just reposition it or throw it away and add a new one. No more CA gel, but you also don't get the nail marks (if you wanted them). These can be added with a rivet tool from VM or a beading tool.

The ink brush pen is a nice idea!

Hey ho! You'll have to forgive me for not wanting to spend my hols tinkering with stuff in tech here