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Everything posted by normanh
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I like Humbrol as well and general have hade good results as I have with Tamiya. Admiralty Paints are pretty good and a good period match, in these I have only used the older solvent ones yet to try the acrylics. I have used some of the Revel Acrylics in blacks and I like the colour of their Tar Black on period iron work. Norman
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Painting a Launch
normanh replied to Q A's Revenge's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
White hull on the outside and brown inside - maybe an ochre colour like yellow? Norman -
Matt Spray / dull coat
normanh replied to demonborger's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I have used a matt varning and airbrused it over gloss to take abway the shine works fine and only needs a very light coat. I did this on my Arizona turrets over the red which just didnt look right in gloss. Norman -
Its a sharpening stone. Norman
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Best glue for rigging: CA & GS-Hypo
normanh replied to Beef Wellington's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
I have actually had more problems with using a diluted PVA on my rigging for all 3 of my Cadlercraft kits than CA. I am not sure why but I suspect the the rigging supplied in these kits is so tight the water based PVA will not penetrate the fibres its been a real pain on ratlines as they just open up continually as you work up the mast even a few days after application. I now tend to use a bit of both depending on the location of the rigging. Waterbased PVA tends to leave a slight white sheen to the black threads in the Kits even in a well diluted form less than 50/50. I dont think Caldercraft would recommend CA in their instructions if it wasnt safe on a model - I still think theres a lot of hype in the "do not use" statements, these are very knowledgeable and respected kit manufacturers. Norman -
Acrylic will cause problems with CA as its water based and will react. Futhermore thin CA is really not suited to bonding plates to to the hull,I used a Medium viscosity which works well but even thats not totally foolproof. I never had a problem with gaps coppering my Snake - biggest problem was the odd plate just refused to stay in place and took a couple of tries on the keel for those I used a Unibond Powergrip adhesive , not a water based or contact. Norman
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I wouldnt do without mine now, perfect for measuring the diameter of micro drills. Norman
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Just looked back on my drawings, seems I changed the sizes down to a 2 mm size as they looked overscale - looks better to scale and more inline with the pictures in Peterssons Rigging book pages 48 and 61. Norman
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A friend was having a factory clearout and some time back and I was given a Sealey SM12 bandsaw, all thats needed is a bit of tender TLC a blade and I need to knock up a fence no real big deal and a couple fixings and knobs replacing. What tpi blades do you guys use, as I was thinking of getting a couple of 6tpi skip blades 1/4 inch and 3/8 inch width? Its had a good clean up and looks much more respectable , motor runs so just needs the blade - 62 inch long. Norman
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Your bomkins look a little out of scale jim from memory the plans show a much smaller diameter than you have installed - should be 2mm I think. Norman
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I love those carronades such a huge improvement over the standard cast white metal ones, I wished I had ordered these now as an upgrade for my Snake. Norman
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Jim I forgot to mention that the true rake of the masts is governed by the slot cut in the false keel by Caldercraft in which the masts sit so unless something is way off the design the rake is what you get and will be accurate as far as us builders are concerned. Norman
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Jim These pictures from my build may help. They give some idea on the angles of the platforms and rake of masts. Norman
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Parallel to the waterline, from memory when you assemby the lower mast the cheeks that you bond to the dowel will give you the right angle. Norman
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Falklands War admiral Sandy Woodward dies aged 81
normanh replied to Kevin's topic in Nautical/Naval History
RIP Sandy Norman -
Milling Bit Questions and Vendor Recommendations
normanh replied to Jay 1's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I have a small amount of experience here, in respect of choice of cutters it really depends on what you are cutting as to what you really need, end mills or slot drills, consider the sizes and speeds as well, each have there advantages and costs. Usually the more cutting edges the better the finish but the cutter speeds and feed rates will be different. Norman- 17 replies
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Protecting Copper
normanh replied to Patrick Haw's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Polish will get into the gaps of the plates and I dont think you will easily remove it. I used a fine wire wool which gave a coarse polish and left it at that to tarnish. Norman -
Protecting Copper
normanh replied to Patrick Haw's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
Patrick - you will need a lacquer of some sort, mine experience of lacquering any polished metal tella me it can be very difficult as you need a good 100% cover totally any flaws will allow the metal to tarnish with time. The best material I have found is rattle can automotive laqcuer which might prove difficult on the Victory due to size - its high gloss and if sprayed evenly will give a good cover and finish. Brushing I know from experience tends to leave poorly covered areas. A good airbrush may give a good result. I prefer to let it tarnish naturally from an even colour/finish its more natural. Norman
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