thibaultron

I have one of these, as well as a Harbor Freight wood workbench that I cut down to table height. I detailed that modification somewhere on this forum, unfortunately I think that thread was deleted due to some members abusing it. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-52-in-W-x-24-in-D-Steel-2-Drawer-Adjustable-Height-Solid-Wood-Top-Workbench-Table-in-White-HOLT5202BJ2/311742117

Hiding, definitely hiding!

That would be a best selling stand alone kit!!!

This is why I have a hand truck. If I want such a kit, I'd figure out how to move it. No problem Chris.

A couple of links on the proper angle for a flat surface print. It depends on the resolution of your printer, and what you want the best surface of your model to be. This one is a link to the page with the diagrams and write up mentioned in the above video. https://themechninja.com/07/3d-printing-flat-surfaces-on-a-sla-3d-printer/ This video will reduce some of the fine detail, but has a neat test file. And this video will help to get correctly scaled parts.

Available as ebook on Google Books.

A fine model!

I remember a video about that, but can't find it. I've watched 50 or so videos. Does anybody have a link to it?

As far as your print problem, I would try printing it in a vertical position. This will reduced the pull force on the FEP, as it will have less surface area being pulled on. Others may be able to give further advice. There are a few FEP installation videos on YouTube, that you could do a search for. On my Mono 4K it is simple, as they built it so that the FEP comes premounted on a frame that screws into the bottom of the tray.

Most of the forum information I found was with Google searches on specific questions. The Anycubic Facebook one is the only one I follow. For the others, if I found a reasonable answer, I copied and pasted it to Word, for future reference. I didn't save the links. Sorry.

Anycubic R_E_R_F File – Detailed Look at what is being sent to the printer This is a detailed look at what the Anycubic R_E_R_F file is sending to your printer, so you can determine the correct exposure for the resin you are using. As a general note, I am not an expert in resin printing. In fact, I’m just starting. That is one reason I made this write up. The advice I give on setting the exposure from the results of this test, is what I have gleaned from videos and write ups I’ve found on the internet. This advice is from several well respected YouTubers and various resin printing forums. Your mileage may vary, and please, just use this as a starting point for your adventures. This is my best analysis of the print and what the tests are. The file prints the same part at different exposures, with print #1 being the least exposed, (1 second) and each subsequent print exposed, at an additional 0.25 seconds. Print #8 has the longest exposure time. These times are for the Mono 4K. I don’t know if the interval is the same for the R_E_R_F files for their other models. According to Anycubic, you can change the initial 1 second time, and the rest will follow at 0.25 second intervals from the new time. My computer will not run their latest slicer software, and the next lower version will not open this latest file, so I could not test this. OK, you have printed out the Anycubic R_E_R_F Exposure. Great! What the heck is the original print supposed to look like so you can judge the results?? As a note, it is best to observe the prints before washing, after washing, and after curing. Each process, especially curing can lead to warping of the part, and some of the details. After the first wash, it might be a good idea to go back and hit the areas with through or blind holes with a toothbrush, to make sure any uncured resin still in them is removed as thoroughly as possible. Handle all the parts carefully, as there are many fine details on them, that can be easily broken off. I noticed that after a day or so, the block, mentioned later. with the seven blind vertical holes in it seemed wet in that area. I think that the smallest holes did print, but still had uncured resin in them after washing, and curing. I will have to come up with some way to clean out such small holes, if any of my regular prints contain such. All the parts are likely to warp during curing, hence the checking, where possible before curing. How to prevent this is left up to more experienced types than me. I think I cured them for far too long. I used a 10 minute cure, I think 2 to 5 is the recommended time. This print has many different tests included so there will be a lot of areas to be checked. In the end not all areas will probably be the best on one part. You will have to pick the one that is the best overall. Start a small print at this setting, then several others varying the exposure by 0.1 or 0.2 seconds on either side of this setting to dial in the best exposure (for an Anycubic Mono 4K). For other machines you may have to use a larger or smaller interval. Here is a picture of my first “successful” print of this test. The failure of the upper right is due to part of my failed actual first print that was stuck to the FEP, I should have checked the FEP before I continued. I think that the sheets of flash, also were caused by this. On all the tests with a series of objects with decreasing size, it is likely that some of the smaller objects or holes may not print. The best you can do is select the exposure that produces the most ones. This is where hitting the holes with a toothbrush and cleaner, may clear out a hole that printed, but still has uncured resin stuck in it. For small details on your regular prints, you may want to do this too. I managed, after playing with several programs, to convert a copy of the R_E_R_F.pwmo file to a Sketchup .SKP format, then imported it into CHITUBOX. These are screen shots taken as I zoomed in to get a closer look at what is being sent to the printer. I have not been able to break up the 8 print group so that I could look at just one part, so the pictures will also show adjacent parts. This is the best I could do. This is the entire 8 part group. The thin border shown in this, and other shots, is the CHITUBOX working surface. This picture shows one of the center angled plate areas seen from the top. This area has flat vertical plates printed at the corner joining the two angled plates. Each plate is thicker than the one next to it. The pillars also change diameter as they go from one side to the other, I think matching diameter to the plate thickness in that row. In addition as the pillars progress from the center corner out they get progressively shorter, until ending at the second to last row. The last row consists of through holes the same diameter as the adjacent pillar. This picture shows both surfaces of the angled plates. The second angled plate consists of square through holes, that appear to be the same width as the vertical plates and get longer as they progress to the outside. Check that both angled plates are flat in both directions. This shows the other side of this plate. The long vertical block on the right has a series of varying diameter horizontal through holes printed in it. This block also has a series of vertical blind holes printed in its top. I’ll show these later. The end of the next block has a depressed circle with two crosses printed in it, One cross is raised (the X) the other depressed (the +) relative to the bottom surface of the circle. This shows the same area from a higher angle. Note that the print number is displayed here. Check the lettering here to see if any letters are missing, incomplete, or blurred. In the two pictures above is shown an additional two tests. On the left is a hexagonal tower with a hemispherical depression offset to touch one face. Note that in the file the wall on that side has a flat top, at the joint, many, if not all, of the final prints will have a notch or gap here. The smaller the gap the better. I was using a Wash and Cure station to clean the parts. The washing action may have washed away this thin area. If your print has such a feature, perhaps careful hand washing would preserve it. The next two pictures are of the last block at the end of the part, the one that has the crosses on one end. On the outside edge of this block are the numbers 1 through 9 and a 0. Check that these are all present, and crisp, not blurry. Also check that the bridge section is straight and the opening is square. The next picture shows the top and the end opposite the crosses of this same block. Verify that the checker board pattern on the end is complete and crisp. The top has a series of long depressed boxes. Check these, and compare the actual number printed to those that were supposed to print out. This is another area that hand cleaning may have helped. In some prints, it looked like the smallest boxes may have printed, but not been completely cleaned out before curing. The above picture also shows the seven blind vertical holes in the top of the adjacent block, that I mentioned earlier. At the other end of the print, next to the previously mentioned hex pillar are two additional shapes. One is a cube with the number 5 inscribed in the top, and the other is a sphere. Checking them is self-explanatory. In the above picture you can also see the rod and pillar and tapered columns that are under the one angled plate. I did not see these and broke most of them off, while handling the cured prints, before I noticed them. These should all be present, and straight. The next pictures are more close ups of these. In the picture below, note the pillar under the angled plate closest to the corner of the two plates. It should be attached via the thin cylinder to the underside of the plate. Also note the previously mentioned through holes along the top of the plate. If anyone sees something I missed, or mistakes I made, please speak up! I hope this helps you to improve your prints! Here is a link to another short write up on this subject, I found: https://www.reddit.com/r/AnycubicPhoton/comments/fnym88/improving_adhesion_understanding_photon_s_rerf/

Yes, the therapy consists of a large group discussion, where we all talk about our problem, and assure each other that were perfectly sane! I understand that many Admirals disagree with that conclusion, at their own meetings, but we're right! The next speaker at our local meeting, is Napoleon! It will be exciting!

After asking about the exposure test on the Anycubic Facebook page, the parts have a number printed under one of the overhanging pieces. Now I need to print a new set, and take more care removing them from the build plate.

I finally got to print something, twice, with a major visit by clutezness! The original file USB thumb drive that came with my Mono 4K did not have Anycubic’s R_E_R_F file, the Resin Exposure test file! However, on their site they have Firmware Upgrades for the printer, and that includes the file, Yea! See the bottom of this tread, for a useful tip on cleaning stuck parts off of the FEP sheet!! This file prints out 8 copies of a printer “Torture Test” at various exposure levels (times). Starting at a very low time and working up in steps to a longer time for each copy. You then examine the copies to see which one/ones have the best results. From there you can try some prints of your own, varying the exposure time a little between/around the best of the times the test shows. This is a great test, but I had a couple problems with it. Firstly the file is in their latest format, which only their latest slicer software can read! Unfortunately, their latest software coughed and died on both of my computers! I found online that this is a common problem, even on computers that meet their requirements! The software does not read the computer configuration correctly! This leads to my second problem with the print, I don’t know which copy was printed at time X! The lowest exposure time is easy to determine, as it did not print completely, but what pattern they printed in I don’t know!! Here is a picture of the finished print, right out of the washing station, before curing. The lowest exposure time print is at the upper right, but does the pattern run right to left, then down to the second row, and repeat, or top to bottom/left to right, etc. This is the second print, the first one I forgot to tighten down the resin tray bolts all the way, and it was popping up each time the print lifted for the next layer. When I lifted the cover, the interlock kicked in and the print stopped. Not a big problem, I thought, until I could not get it to restart! I had to clean off the build plate and start over. As it turned out some of the first print stuck to the FEP sheet, and may have effected that second print. This is a photo of the parts after I removed them from the build plate, and cured them. Important Note: The first copy is missing, as will be explained at the bottom of this thread.Not knowing exactly what was being printed, I damaged some of the details, during handling. You can see I broke off some of the fat cylinders on thin stacks, at the bottom of the prints. I was hoping that the copies might be individually numbered, but no luck. After finding out what copy is printed at what exposure, I’ll redo this test. Now to the self-imposed disaster! While draining the resin from the tray, back into the bottle, I noticed the partial prints stuck to the FEP sheet, and while reaching for the plastic spatula to remove it, I knocked over the bottle! 2/3rds of my resin, all over the workbench and floor! My metal tray caught a lot of it, but not all! I spent the next two hours cleaning up the mess, while working through my entire supply of paper towels and gloves! My workshop floor is bare wood, so I still have some resin soaked into it. I cleaned it up as best I could, and left a fluorescent desk light shining on it, hoping the UV from the lamp will cure the resin still in the wood. Some lessons learned from this: 1. From now on, I’m only going to do one step at a time. Waiting to finish filtering the resin, and sealing the bottle, could have been done before I worried about the stuff on the FEP sheet. 2. I need to start really working on cleaning out the shop, so I can move the workbenches, and put down the vinyl floor, bad hip or no. 3. I need a larger supply of towels and gloves. 4. I need to clean out the shop, even if it hurts to get rid of some of the useful stuff. 5. If I have a selection of almost identical parts, number them after curing so I don’t mix them up while comparing them! 6. I need to further research the final curing times needed for my resin. I understand that over-curing them, can cause multiple problems, while under-curing is a Bad thing! 7. Don’t repeat this stupid mistake! 8. Did I mention, not knocking over the bottle again? Yes, sorry! 9. Get a proper organics filter mask, not the blue paper ones they supply. While there was almost no odor from the spilled resin, why take chances. 10. I need to get a smaller sieve type container to put small parts in while washing, the Wash and Cure supplied basket has holes that small parts would fall through. 11. Seal the seam between the sides and top of the printer base, with Capton(SP) tape. Some resin dripped into this seam, when I was pouring it into the resin tray. The Anycubic Wash and Cure 2.0 worked perfectly. I washed the parts while still on the build plate, so that I could keep track of them, and then removed the dried clean parts to the Curing Turntable in order. Anycubic specifically states that the washing tub Must be cleaned out after a session, not leaving the dirty cleaning solution in it. I was looking for clear sealable containers, to put it in, until I looked at one of my empty 1 gallon milk bottles, light bulb time! Three free 1 gallon containers now procured! Yes, I drink a lot of milk! You put the used solution in the clear container, and leave it out in the sun. After a week or so, the now cured resin particles sink to the bottom. And you can drain off the clear solution at the top. No, you can’t just cure the resin in the solution in the curing station, you end up with a resin sponge welded into it. Thank you, YouTube, for the video on that Fail! The slow curing and settling in the closed container, is what is needed. There are expensive ways to more quickly clean the solution, but I’m not doing the printing as a business. For cleaning the parts on the plate, a full gallon is needed, but if you can place them loosely in the basket, you only need to add enough to cover the parts. I will have to come up with some sort of apparatus to force solution through the interior of hollow parts, perhaps a large ear type squeeze bulb. Overall, I see that I will be able to print the parts I need to build and upgrade my models. A big “Thank You” to my son, who 3D filament printed me a custom funnel that fits the top of the resin bottle, when filtering the resin back in!! It fits inside the bottle top, as well as outside the threads for the cap, so the funnel is perfectly stable, unless you stupidly knock the whole thing over! Here is the used solution in the milk jug, with the plastic coffee jug I used for spot cleaning parts, the build plate and the resin tray. As the print was small, the solution is pretty clean, but it will be even cleaner when I reuse it. The Mono 4K printing area is sealed during printing, with no “Smell Dissipating Fan” as used on some printers, forcing the fumes out, so I may not need a vented enclosure. Having some sort of extraction fan would not be a bad idea, though. I may also invest in one of those charcoal fans that fit inside the print case. Now, to the problem of the parts stuck to the FEP sheet. I tried a plastic spatula, and my fingernails, and only accomplished scoring and dinging the FEP surface. Then I remembered a video I watched, on how to solve this problem. I poured enough resin in the tray to cover the bottom, and placed the failed number one print into the tray, at a corner opposite the stuck on parts. Then I used the exposure test, for when you are visually checking that all the “spots” are illuminated on the LCD screen, to expose the whole resin area, for about a minute or two. This created a solid raft in the tray, that also fused the stuck parts and the sacrificial print together . I drained the uncured resin back into the bottle. By lifting the print, the whole thing (raft and stuck parts, pulled off cleanly, with no further damage to the FEP! Here is a use for some of those old support structures you have left over! Sorry no photo of this, as my last pair of gloves were covered in resin, while cleaning up the mess I’d made. The first two items I will be trying to print are a skirt for a passenger diesel locomotive (fits between the two trucks to make the loco look more streamlined)(two prints per loco), and an oil bunker to convert a steam locomotive from coal fired to oil fired. This model includes both tender tool boxes, the hatch covers, a new sand dome for the loco, and the loco crew water bottle that mounts on the front of the tender. The holes in the sides of the bunker, are there to clear the existing portions of the tender shell coal bunker. The bottoms of the holes are cut out after printing.

The advantage of the dummy props for RC, is that the drag they create, require more thrust from the operating ones, of course. The extra thrust sends more water past the rudders, giving you more maneuverability. Also to get a properly shaped wake and bow wave the speed should be the square root of the scale, not a "Scale Speed". The square root is what they use in all the naval test tanks. For instance, the Missouri steamed at about 35 to 36 knots top speed. Your model should go about 1/14th of this, not 1/200th.

Today I made a tray to set my resin printer and washing station in. After looking at a few videos, they recommended having the printer on a tray, to catch any resin spills, and thus keep it off your work bench/table. I had not considered that before. I was looking around for a suitably sized plastic tray, when I remembered an old metal tray I had laying around. The tray is a metal drip tray, sold for putting under leaky cars. This one had been used to protect my wood trailer floor, when I helped a friend pick up a used car engine. Anyway the tray measured 25 inches X ~36 inches, which was too large for my 20 inch wide workbench. It also had some bad dents at one end, where the motor had pressed in during transport. Cutting the tray to a final length, after bending, of 19 inches long (from the 36 inch length), would leave me with a 25 inch wide by 19 inch deep tray. This was perfect for placing the printer and wash station side by side, with room to insert the USB thumb drive in the slot in the side of the printer. Why Anycubic put the power and USB slot on the side of the printer, and the wash station power switch on the back, I don’t know. Front mounts would be much better. I cut the tray with a 4 inch lip, which I bent up to form a vertical back to the tray. In the near future I will fill the two back corners with caulk to seal the area I cut for clearance for bending this. I could have just left the tray intact and bent the whole end up, but in my case, this would have interfered with the brackets of the shelf above the two machines. In the next week I will cut a slot in one side of a ¾ inch square strip, and place it over the exposed cut at the back of the tray, even with filing, that edge is still sharp enough to cut me. If I do make another one (see below), I’ll make the back lip higher, right now it is level with the top of the printer base. Here is a picture of the tray, as it sits right now. You can see the tab I bent up at the back. How did you bend it, you ask? I carefully flattened the outer area of the tab sides, leaving the tubular edge intact. This allowed the tab the clear the area at the bend to bottom lip area. I clamped it between two pieces of wood, and after hand bending it a little, went at the corner with a rubber mallet. This is one of the corners that I have to caulk. You can see the area next to the tube edge that I flattened for clearance. It might not look flat, but the wrinkles you see are where the tray was bent, they are “flat”, but the edges still leave a visible mark. I will probably buy a new tray, and fabricate another one. This one is not quite flat, due to a couple of twisted areas that I bent down as best I could. Moving the engine caused some damage that caused this. The tray is pretty good, but the weight of the machines is not great enough to press the floor tight to the table. The trays are not that expensive (at least not a couple years ago when I bought this one). And keeping the printer as close to flat on the leveled table as possible is best. I’m going to run a test print tomorrow, to dial in the correct settings for my resin, and see how bad the stink is. The later will determine if I have to build a vented enclosure for the printer.

Thanks!

I've always thought it was 1600X1200. Has it changed recently?

Its a little late, but you do have another coat of paint to apply. The Model Railroad Suppliers sell "Rivet Decals" These are little epoxy (I think) dimples on decal film. They might have some with the spacing you need to replicate the ones for your model.

Perhaps a coat of thinned PVA, before painting, or a varnish coat.

Opps, mistyped.

It was settled in 2014, with neither party winning the right to the copywrite, but the government paying the family $300,00.

249! "Doctor My Eyes"!

Part 027 – “Let There Be Light!” One quick update. I added a light to the inside of the enclosure. I had been waiting until I could get a LED light, but time passed and I already had a spare fluorescent one lying about, so I installed it. I was going to install it under the top of the enclosure with the light pointing forward. The top of the door would have shielded it from glaring into my eyes. After some consideration though, I realized that when I was working on it, with the door open, it would be shining right into my eyes. Looking at the door, I realized that I could mount it between the supports, and then it would both well light the machine, with the door closed, and shine the light down past me with it open. I originally had it mounted parallel to the upper window support, but the light case hit on the vacuum connector, when I tried to close the door. By lowering that corner to touch the support, I got just enough clearance. For now I’m running the cord out through the window opening. I need to stop by the hardware store, and pick up some cable clamps. The wire is long enough that I can extend it out through the back door area. If I was going the build another enclosure, I would move the vacuum connector back a bit to clear the light case. With the light added I defiantly need both of the door supports, due to the weight of the light. The one support is not attached in the pictures, as the light blocked access to the mounting screw. I’ve fixed it since then. The difference with the light is amazing! I can now clearly see the work pieces during carving, and when changing bits, etc. Before I had to shine my modeling lamp into the case to see some areas. The first picture shows the enclosure without the light. The camera is more light sensitive than my eyes, so it is even darker in real life. Here is it with the light on. It makes me want to get a new piece of Plexiglas for the window! The vacuum hose was a little too short, after I trimmed it, and it kept popping out after 10 minutes or so, during the cuts on this piece at the far right of the machine. I was able to fix it by wrapping a layer of tape around the nozzle. This had the added benefit of allowing me to put a slight twist in the hose, to make it fold into a little better configuration, when the spindle was at the extreme left.

Just ordered a copy, also. Thanks!