Jump to content
MORE HANDBOOKS ARE ON THEIR WAY! We will let you know when they get here. ×

thibaultron

NRG Member
  • Posts

    2,906
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by thibaultron

  1. True, but my house has several cats, who like to "help", so I do all my modeling in the shop. The workbench presently has 3 plastic models in progress (I'm trying different methods to simulate the look of wood on the plastic, for them). Also the reconstruction of a 144th scale Type V sub with interior that I built, admitidly from a prepainted kit, that fell and broke at the seams. Trying to locate the deck piece for the bow now. If I can't find it, I have another kit I can raid, but do not wish to ruin a complete kit for that. It is one of the Takara series kits (came in I think 7 boxes). I had to buy a box of 2 complete kits to get it.
  2. While I understand some their outlook, the owner is still doing all the design work. If you were using their design, I can understand it. The CAD I use goes for about the same price as this program. Like I said I plan to buy it, and really wouldn't be selling any designs anyway, but it might be a concideration to some.
  3. No it will be a little while before I start on the Alert. I am expanding my shop, and until that is finished, I'm only working on a few plastic models. about 1/2 my shop is electrified and insulated. Now I'm finishing the rest, and I can barely move in the original 1/2, as everything from both halves is piled in it.
  4. For anyone interested. The HMS Alert 1/96th "kit" is presently being offered on Ebay. Item 111603301795, for about $40 with shipping. I just bought one and wanted to pass on the information.
  5. JUst watched a bunch of your videos, Paul. Thanks!
  6. I've seen this program, and plan to buy it in the future, as I can't afford to buy plastic kits for all the buildings on my layout. One negative aspect of this and similar programs, is that any designs you develop, are basicly the property of the software company. You can not sell that building design, because they hold the rights to all the patterns used to generate the textures (sidings, wood grains, etc.).. For something similar for ship/boat designs, that might be a big consideration. My CAD and photo programs have no such clauses.
  7. Years ago I bought a commercial die filer on Ebay. When I get my shop finished, I'm going to set it up. one note to anyone building one. The files must cut on the down stroke, unlike hand files which cut on the "up" stroke compared to the tang. If you are going to use a file in the die filer, you need either the special files built for them wefalck has, or to silver solder or braze a new mounting end on them. Luckily my filer came with a set of files. Mine is sized more for larger (model steam engine size) metal castings than fine ship model pieces, though. There are 2 main types of die filers. The regular ones do not have a tilting table, the ones with a tilting table are called “Butterfly” filers.
  8. I'd like to thank you for this wonderfull build log!! Great writeup, pictures, and clear descriptions.
  9. MDF (particle board) has no strength, over time, under tension. In ship modeling this may not matter as much, but every shelf, piece of flooring, or furtniture I have has gone out to the trash over time. It also swells if it obsorbs water (major problem with floors).
  10. Here is a great video on airbrushing by the owner of Badger Airbrushes. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsW-vN0_lHw&list=PLCBpnrOqQtw0q8e3ET10-hp_Vd9suOzri&index=13 While he of course recomends his produces, he also does not do so exclusively, nor is he afraid to tell when you should by another brand. Lots of useful beginer, and advanced stuff. The War Gamer Consortium site has a lot of great airbrushing info.
  11. Nice model! I moved to Baltimore in 1977, and followed the Pride's journeys and visited her many times, when she was in port.
  12. Nice work! Many years ago I was clamping a part to one of my models with super glue. I left it to set over night. The next day I removed the clamp and then grabed it by the bottom pad. The glue had sat all night without setting, but instantly set gluing the pad of my thumb flat on the c clamp base pad. Took and hour and most of my bottle of de-gluer to work my way around the edges repeatedly until it came loose.
  13. I'll be following this build also! I'm presently building the old Pyro model of the skipjack "Carrie Price", and have both the Midwest and Model Shipways kits waiting, in the wings. In the future I pland to scratch build the Carrie Price in 1/32nd scale to match the MS Willie Bennet.
  14. For Mr. Todd. You can have both craftsmanship, and RC. I've seen some beautifully detailed RC ships.
  15. Thanks!
  16. Same on the USS Constelation when I visted her a few years ago.
  17. "Zincs" are still used to protect modern boats from Galvanic corrosion. They are bolted to the hulls and or outboards and corrode away sacrificaly to protect the boats other metals. Generally they are replaced regularly. They are indeed a powdery grey color as they corrode.
  18. I don't think 3D printing will kill the hobby, anymore than plastic models, laser cutting, or resin casting did. Manufactures simply have to adapt. As far as models that are completely 3D printed, great, more subjects will be available, just like when plastic models came out. If 3D printing gets cheap enough manufactures can start selling printed kits. Not everyone will be willing to generate their own files for complex subjects, nor will they have a 3D printer of great resolution in their homes for a long time. As far as laser scanning, that's great, but you need and original to scan. Let's take Model Railroading (my other hobby) as an example. I like the Santa Fe Railroad, in the steam era. My problem is that the SF built almost all of their steam locos in house, to their own designs. 95% of those locos were either never offered by manufactures, or made in now rare and very expensive brass locomotives. I therefore either have to shell out BIG bucks, or do with generic models decaled for the SF. There are some models that have the correct frame and drivers for the loco, and others that have tenders that are close, but that requires buying 2 or more locos to make one. 3D printing would be a great help. I could make my own locos (maybe), but 1 would probably take me years.
  19. There is a thread that has some info that might help Ships plans and CAD drawings?
  20. When the city of Baltimore acquired the Constellation as a museum ship it was claimed she was the frigate from the 1700s and thus the oldest continuously commissioned ship in the US. Her configuration however was not a frigate. The city claimed she had been rebuilt over the years and had her back dated to "correct" this. She was displayed for years this way (I visited her many times when I lived in Baltimore). About 20 years ago research showed that she was actually the second ship to be named in the line, and was actually a Sloop Of War built in the mid 1800s, not a frigate. There is a book "Fouled Anchors" that tells the story. She has since been rebuilt to her original as built state. As to how accurate the kit is to the frigate configuration, it as least looks close to what I remember. I've been tempted to buy this kit, if only because that is how I remember her. She did at least look like this at one time, even if she was at that time a fantasy model herself. I wish someone would come out with a kit as she is corrected.
  21. On the post about the USS Constellation, the model depicts her as she was setup until the 80s or 90s in Baltimore Harbor. It was not until more recently that she was rebuilt to resemble her as built. The ship was originally claimed to be built in the late 1700s, research later proved that she was built in the mid 1800s, configured as she now is. So while the kit does not show her as built, it does show her as she was when the kit came out.
  22. Get the launch kit, the Bounty did not have a jolly boat! Found this out after buying the jolly boat kit.
  23. I have bought, then resold several kits (even one high quality US made kit), when I found out they were entirely fictitious, with the manufacturer lying about it. I have some that I kept because the manf honestly stated that they represented a type, not a specific boat. There are a lot of plans out there of ships that reflect as historically accurate as possible type of, or even of a specific ship (the Hannah comes to mind), that I would build from. Just tell me at the start! For instance, the previously mentioned Corel Ranger, why not just label the kit as Defender or other sister ship to start with? I have more kits than I will likely be able to build in my life time (ship and other types). I would prefer to spend my time on kits that are at least reasonably close.
×
×
  • Create New...