thibaultron
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Everything posted by thibaultron
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Wow, funny three times over! -
To cut the concave ends of the jaws, cut a ring and expand the jaws against the ring, and bore or drill the inside jaw surfaces.
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To cut the concave jaw surfaces, reverse the jaws and use a boring bar to cut the now inward facing surfaces.
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I believe this solution is one proceeded by "Buba, hold my beer, and watch this!"
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Happy Birthday, Chris!
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Woodwork/Model making workshop. Scale 1:1
thibaultron replied to Charter33's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Not having followed the Garden thread, what size is the building? -
Same here, I ordered it yesterday. Much easier process, now.
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I would start with a general Google search, then go to Ebay. Ebay has a Saved Search feature (a highlighted option under the search bar), that once selected, they will send you an email, the morning after the item is listed. I generally also save that type of search to my bookmarks, and check a couple of times a day. Kits from 2004 should not be hard to get, though you may have to search for a while for one to come up.
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T Rex 36in (90cm) long Skeleton - Finished
thibaultron replied to Old Collingwood's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
My model was a soft plastic with a paint or rubber color coat, so regular plastic glue did not work. CA did. Try taking the rods out of the tail. -
T Rex 36in (90cm) long Skeleton - Finished
thibaultron replied to Old Collingwood's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Having built a similar model, use CA on the joints. The snap together sections are not tight enough to hold everything in position. I tried the white glue/canopy glue method, but that also failed. -
I would suggest adding some wood blocks at the bow.
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I'll be following along, also. I have this kit, the Bismark, and Missouri main turrets, and the Bismark and Missouri secondary kits as well.
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I'd like to get a good bench top drill press for the smaller drill bits. I know the cheap harbor freight, home depot, etc. ones are nowhere near the quality I need, but don't need the $400 to $1000 ones either, just a good one for modeling. Is the Proxxon or a similar one really "Precision"? Any recommendations? I already have a full sized floor mounted drill press, so just a bench top for light work.
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Almost all the scratch built models are made from real boat/ship plans of one degree of detail or so. This companies plans seem to be of a greater amount of detail than most any historic plans available. Have a good time building yours.
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Also finish up with an overall coat of matt varnish/finish to blend the glossy area into the rest of the model, unless you plan to have a final gloss finish.
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I updated/expanded my spreadsheet on calculating the best angle to place your print at for the smoothest surface finish. The new spreadsheet now includes a calculation for what exposure time to use when printing thinner layers. As you decrease layer height, less exposure time is needed to cure the thinner “strip” of resin, as the light has less material to shine though. I’ve also added a new calculation to show the correct angle to place the print on, should you desire a specific layer height, rather than the other one that showed the correct layer height for a specific angle (still included on the sheet). I’m not sure how useful the new calculation will be, but I figured it was good to include it. General Angle Values For Printing Aflat Surface on a Resin Printer_017.xlsx
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The other day I printed out the case of a resin printer heater designed to fit inside the printing area of the printer. I wanted to insure that it would fit, before buying the two most expensive parts (the heater/fan, and the power supply. It does indeed fit inside my Anycubic Mono 4K, so I'll order the rest of the parts. Once it is built I can Use some of the resins that require 25C/77F, or more, for best results. In the winter I can't get the shop that warm with my space heater, and in the summer the temp will drop at night, and 77F is a little warm for doing any type of physically active work. Here is the video I found on the heater, files are listed in the description block:
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Sharing
thibaultron replied to Patrick Matthews's topic in CAD and 3D Modelling/Drafting Plans with Software
Thanks!!!- 1 reply
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Screwed up
thibaultron replied to gregkthompson's topic in Building, Framing, Planking and plating a ships hull and deck
First, throw away the Gorilla Glue, or at least save it for other non-hobby uses. I don't know of anyway to soften that type of glue. You may have to carefully cut the two sides of the bulkhead free separately, and either remake it, or glue each side back on separately. -
A ship's stove too small to print? (For La Jacinthe)
thibaultron replied to tkay11's topic in 3D-Printing and Laser-Cutting.
If you decide to get the Mono 4K, there is a Facebook group for this printer. We also have a 3D printer thread in this forum.- 17 replies
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I trid to order from his site, but was unable to enter my country and state, when I went to the address area of the cart.
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Using a cat for scale is much more visually stunning, than a coin!
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If you decide to stick with grub screws (set screws in the USA), you can either punch a small brass disk, and place it in the bottom of the hole. or buy screws with a brass tip. I used the latter on the 12 inch metal lathe, that I was forced to sell a few years back.
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No, I've been finishing the renovations in my shop, and building the shelves/legs for my HO layout. I'm also having enough problems with one hip, that it will shortly have to be replaced. It now takes me a few days to do stuff that would formerly take me a few hours. I hope to get back to her soon.
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