thibaultron

It has been, since the day it was published, the best knot book ever written. It's been decades since it's release in the late 40's (I think) and hundreds of knot books have come and gone, but Ashley remains firmly in first place. No other knot book has ever come close. Having said that, it's not necessarily the knot book you need. It's got over 2,000 knots in it so Ashley wasn't able to provide complete step by step instructions, although all the knots are illustrated. Many will be fine with less comprehensive knot books and online resources. The Girl Scout Handbook has a terrific knot section, for instance.

Hi Clare,
Thanks for the quick response, that explains a lot, I was interested in the paper blocks after watching a video on how they assembled...pretty cool, I'll check out Cromwell.  I've a ways to go before I'm ready to rig and may still change my mind and go with conventional wood...but thanks again for the info and the quick response, much appriceated
THX
J

Hi jct, yeah, Shipyard has changed their online store policies a couple times. 
 
Roger at Ages of Sail doesn't want to carry more fittings than he already does, so he hasn't been interested in carrying the paper blocks from Shipyard. Paper ship models are still a niche market in a niche market (ship models) in the US, and Shipyard doesn't really understand why Ages of Sail isn't selling more stuff. I think they may be doing this on purpose to get Ages of Sail to buy more stuff and carry the blocks. But, that's just my theory. 
 
All i I know is that when Roger put in an order, he gets maybe $8000 worth of product (retail value) at a time. They probably really like that and so they keep bugging him to order. They even bug me about it now, since I help out Ages of Sail with some things.
 
Long winded way to say, I don't know. 
 
Might help if people wrote to Ages of Sail asking them to carry the paper blocks. You can also do what I did and just use wooden blocks. Or, if you really want paper, check Cornwall. I think they started selling some Shipyard stuff.
 

Hi Clare,
A question for you, did you experience any difficulty ordering directly from Poland? I've been following your Shipyard builds and was inspired to order their Pinta, but when I tried to order the block set from their web site the US was not listed in the country drop down and the paypal link would not work...I tried e-mailing but no luck there they recommend buying from Age of Sail but they don't carry the block accessory set...ok don't want to whine just wanted to see how you went about ordering directly from Shipyard.
THX
J

Thanks Danny. Considering the incredible work I'm seeing you do on the Amatsukaze, that's quite a complement! I did start the V108 Torpedo Boat to see what it's like to build a steel hulled, "traditional" paper model kit, but also have been tinkering with another Shipyard kit, this time the 1/96-scale HMS Mercury. You can find it here: 
 
Pav, thanks for the nice comments. I did in fact make a case for it, edged with brass. Cases make everything look like museum pieces!
 
I didn't consider the expanding foam, though I've heard people mention it before. I just looked at the hull of my new HMS Mercury build, linked above, and it's actually pretty solid. I suppose it has to do with the high density of bulkheads and the small scale of 1/96. Recalling how the Alert build went, the biggest issue I had in shape of the hull was that you are using wide, flat sheets to cover the compound curve of the hull. But, I'll deal with that later in my HMS Mercury build log.
 
 
The problem I have with paper models is that they're so inexpensive, relatively speaking, that I have a hard time keeping myself from buying more kits!
 
Well, as long as I don't start them all...
 
 

Great job Clare . Are you going to do more Card models?
 
  Danny

And of course, your model looks gorgeous too. are you going to make a display case for her? i made one last week for mantua armed pinnace and she looks hot too...

Clare, did you consider expanding foam? i have done a few hulls using this method and its very good.
what you do, you assemble your hull frames glue them the usual way. of course, everything have to be nice and straight .and then you grab a can of expanding foam (a small one and one that expands into nice homogenous volume, with not too meny pores) and spray it over the frame. like cover the whole thing in foam. sans the decks. keep those covered and foam free. the foam will expand and turn your hull into basically a log of foam.
then after it cures you take any Stanley knife and just trim the excess away. foam sands well and if you end up having holes in it, just use any filler. its like you create a planking layer zero. gives you nice and well developed surface to glue your first paper planking, vertically over the exposed frames.
this method works well. it has been proven to work on hulls of any size. actually, bigger the hull better the result.
or go the way Doris does the things. just be as precise as possible. have you seen the way she did her Bellona?
For those that would also like to see the way Doris does her models, she has a nice gallery here: http://www.papirove-modely.cz/u/148
 

Thanks for the tips Clare...

Hi JCT,
 
I hope you enjoy it as much as I have. The Pinta is a nice looking model. I saw some photos of a really gorgeous build of the paper kit not that long ago. There are a lot of things you can do to take the kit to the next level, but I found my first kit (the Alert) to be a great learning experience.
 
The one thing I have to say about the Alert, which also applies to Le Coureur I think, is that because the kit uses a layer of lapstrake planking, you end up with three layers of coverings on the hull. Most shipyard kits only use two. Each successive layer gets you closer to a smoothly curving hull, and by the time I added the lapstrake planking, the hull looked nice and fair.
 
For the 1/96-scale HMS Mercury kit that I've been working on, I'm trying to think of ways to improve the planking look. I'm considering lightly scoring the printed planking lines of the hull and painting it, so that it will essentially look like a planked hull. Also, for a future build, I would consider adding some kind of thin strips directly across the frames before adding any layers, just to provide more support for the first hull layer. 
 
Anyway, these kits are inexpensive enough to experiment with a little. My one piece of advice is to scan all the parts sheets onto your computer first, so you can print any replacement items you may need.
 
Looking forward to seeing your build log!

It is so obvious I wonder why it took me so long to see it.

Thank you Kees!

Thanks Elia.  It was great meeting you, and I hope you let me know when you're in the area again.  Your recommendations on the sail making booklet and on the HAER drawings of the Lettie were great - I've been studying both.  David's booklet on sail making has answered lots of my questions on how to rig Kathryn's sails.
 
Looking forward to seeing progress on Arethusa.

Very nice work. I like the smooth finish in your work

Frank,
 
So very nice work on the jig for the ladder and its execution.  Kathryn is looking sharper than ever.
 
Thanks again for the meet-up with GuntherMT and shop talk a couple of weeks back - it was real treat to be able to meet the two of you and talk wooden ship modeling.  I'm just about settled back at home now and getting some modeling stuff re-started.
 
Cheers,
 
Elia

Corny, but fun!
 
 

What a great family historical project! And the quality of your Uncle's work at that age!

Build Log. Restoration of Full Rigged Sailing Ship Model
Posting #6
Then some light relief was the restoration of the ship’s boats, deckhouse and rudder.  See photos below.
There are four ship’s boats all of which, if full scale, would be about 17 feet long.  Two are what I’d call lifeboats like a small whaler, that is, with a sharp sterns.  These are stowed upside down on the deckhouse roof.  The other two could be termed as jolly boats, and they are on the tiers beneath the davits.
Julius carved them from blocks of wood and hollowed them as can be seen in the photo.  They are covered with sail cloth which is stretched over a fore and aft ridge pole then painted.
Deckhouse. Again made from a solid block of lightweight wood.
Rudder.  The original didn’t survive the ravages of time!  I made the new one from a piece of our lovely straight-grained NZ Kauri.  This timber (lumber) was highly sought after by the explorer/navigator Captain James Cook on his late 18th Century voyages, for spars in particular.  The tiller is original.

 

Deperdussin 1911 - thankyou for your comment, much appreciated. Paul

Thistle17 - thank you.  looking at some of others blogsI realise that our community of modellers has some very fine craftsmen turning out superb finished models.  They inspire me to keep going.  My uncle was only 11 when he finished my model in 1899 - and as i keep going I feel as though I am experiencing some of his challenges.  He did it with his bare hands and a few hand tools.  I have the benefit of electriciity, light and some modern tools!  I am often in awe of that young boy.  
I really appreciate your comments, thanks again. Paul 

Great work on a wonderful project!!! 

There is something fascinating about restoration of a model. I have done 2 for an individual in our city that were termed "sailors models" and as such were a bit rudimentary in comparison. Your uncle was accomplished and your work on this gem is outstanding. Those who sailed aboard these ships were indeed remarkable people and your work honors them!

Build Log
Posting #5
Looking back on the previous instalments I feel I glossed over the many and varied
tasks, some very small yet necessary, involved in advancing the project.  These are not necessarily in chronological order.
-          shaping wood for replacement bulwarks and fitting them to the hull;
-          preparing hull for painting, and painting it;
-          making new main pin rails, including marking and drilling the pin holes;
-          repairing bitts and fiferails;
-          making new belaying pins from copper wire. (Note: copper or brass wire has been used instead of steel as would have been on an actual ship);
-          making triple “sheave” blocks needed for upper top, upper topgallant and royal yard halliards;
-          fitting halliard tyes;
-          rigging halliards for the hoisting yards i.e. upper top, upper topgallant and royal;
-          adding fittings (“spider bands”) to each mast;
-          attaching chain plates to hull for each mast;
-     making and installing main shrouds;
-     fitting capstays to each mast;
-     installing trestle trees, main and mizzen masts;
-      making and installing mizzen shrouds;
-     making new tops for each mast
-     rigging fore-topmast back-stay;
-     fitting ringbolts for anchoring main & mizzen stays;
-     rigging mainstay and mizzenstay;
-     fitting spreaders for backstays;
-     rigging topmast, topgallant and royal stays plus the associated backstays;
-     rigging ratlines on each of the 9 sets of shrouds;
-     incidental painting of mast sections, tops and trestle trees;
-     refurbishing existing running rigging blocks, and making some new ones;
-     making and fitting sheer poles;
-     resetting of shrouds;
-     refitting bowsprit guys;
-     refurbishing existing yards, and making necessary replacements;
-     preparing each yard by fitting the necessary fittings (e.g. jackstays, eye bolts, 
foot-ropes, rigging blocks) for the running rigging;
-          fitting yard lifts;
-          fitting buntline and clew line blocks on all 18 yards (small beads);
-          preparing and fitting wire brace pendants for each yard;
-          making a pair of bumkins that take rigging for the mainmast braces;
-          fitting braces, all of which involve purchases;
-          refurbishing and fitting the deckhouse;
-          repairing and fitting the skylight over the main cabin;
-          calculating dimensions of the spanker gaff and boom.
 
And as you seasoned modellers well know the task list keeps on growing. Pictures below are just a few from 2013 (4 years ago) to show a little of the progress.
1.      My improvised bumkin to accommodate the main lower braces.
 
2.      A more general view of the standing rigging – halliards for the 3 hoisting yards, lifts for the yards and braces for the yards.
 
3.      Some detail of the mainmast trestle trees.
 
4.      Detail of mizzen top.