thibaultron

Outstanding work!I wonder how that magnificent model was ever allowed to be damaged in the first place?

The underside is what we were talking about, Jud. We all agree on that point!

Might suggest that the thwarts be sealed on the underside as is the exposed side. Reasoning being to stabilize from moisture changes and to create a flat I beam by having the web separating two stiff flanges resisting any bending from time and weight. Double coat if it does not detract from the desired finish. Like the Davit fabrication.
jud

Hi Druxey and John, yes I will be doing that with a little clear just to maintain the idiosyncratic method of the originals. That will keep future conservers thinking.
 
Michael 

Can only agree with Druxey!
 
John

I think that you've nailed it, Michael! Will you seal the underside, though?

Happy to have you following along Pat
Nils, at least I didn't have to make them just fix a few up.
 
I have begun working on the missing davit replacement the first thing was to sort of measure it up I did this with a pair of vernier calipers and a pencil tracing.
 

 
I could have used the mill drill out in the shop but it was snowing and getting late so just opted for a drill in a pin chuck with a #68 drill bit to spot the holes through the .020" brass for the side plates.
 

 
After the holes were drilled I used the jewelers saw to fret out the sides these will be annealed before I bend the bottom section prior to soldering the three main body parts together.
 

 
I used some brown Testors paint brushed onto some different textures of card and the Stash tea box was the best to give the right amount of absorption of the gloss paint to leave it as a semi gloss.
 
the three following images were taken with different lighting the first Tungsten the second Fluorescent last one being Daylight I am happy enough with the results and as long as I am careful with the placement I think they will be passable.
 

 

 

 
 
 
Michael
 

Don't use brushes! Here is a talk by the owner of Badger Airbrush. Great info!
 
 

The blower came in the mail, and I compared it to the drawing I had made from the manual. Except for a few minor details they were close. The only important difference was in the position of the screws holding the inlet ring on. In the manual, there were 8 holes set square with the body. On the blower I got, there were only 4, offset by 72 deg. from square.
 

 
I waited for the blower to arrive, before cutting anything, so this wasn’t a problem.

 
I wired on a plug, and tested the blower. Kurt has a point. The blower may be too powerful for this size booth, but I’m going to finish it, and see how it performs, with this blower.

 
As I mentioned before I am going to mount it with longer screws through the blower wall, into the holes normally used to mount the inlet ring.

 
As you can see the blower cannot be mounted flush with the wall, as the flange on the outlet protrudes past that surface of the housing (lower right). To overcome this I am placing a ¾” thick plywood ring between the housing and the wall.

 
I had originally thought that I would have to have some sort of metal ring on the inside of the wall, so that the screws would have a stronger seat. After mounting the blower though, I found that there was more than enough wood surrounding the screws, to prevent them pulling through, using just washers.

 
I cut the hole for the opening in the wall, and the wooden ring out with a saber saw. I would like to give a nod to a very nice saw that I borrowed from my neighbor. It is made by Bosch. That is the smoothest running saber saw I’ve ever used.

 
Here are two shots of the pieces, and another is of them arranged as they will be when assembled.
 

 

 

 
Note that at this point, I’ve already drilled the mounting holes. I took some care in getting the cuts smooth, but I didn’t go back and sand everything to a furniture grade finish.

 
I printed out my drawing, and attached it to the wall, at the marked center of the board. I then drilled the first hole per the drawing. Then I placed the inlet ring with one hole aligned with a drill bit in the hole, and the other holes aligned with the ones on the drawing. Using the ring as a guide I drilled the other three holes.

 
I then cut out the opening, and the ring. I clamped the wood ring in place and drilled the holes through it. Luckily I managed to get them all straight through both pieces, and the screws matched the holes in the housing. I drilled them by hand, as my drill press is buried at the moment, so I was quite pleased that they all came out correctly.

 
I then mounted the blower using 2” #8 sheet metal screws, and a #8 and #10 washer under each screw head.
 

 


 
I thought I was careful in getting the blower on correctly, but notice the arrow drawn on the blower wall in the first picture. It should be pointing up. Yes, I mounted the blower upside down! I then disassembled it all and remounted the blower correctly. Normally this wouldn’t matter, but the spray booth is not entirely square, and the wall will fit only one way, and I need the blower outlet to point toward one specific side of the booth. As I’m facing the front, the outlet has to go toward the right hand side (the left as seen from these pictures looking at the back of the booth).

 
I then temporarily mounted the blower and wall to the back of the booth. I will not be gluing this wall to the booth, but attaching it just with screws. I may have to remove it in the future for maintenance. I put it in place so that I could attach the glue strip along the bottom. I waited for this until now, to make sure everything would line up.

 
Here are three shots of the blower and wall put into place, while I was doing this. These shots are with the wall just wedged in place. I used clamps to hold everything tight while I was putting in the glue strip.

 

 

 

 
You can see in the pictures that the wall is sticking out a little at the top, before I clamped it tight.

 
The next two pictures are of the installed glue strip. The first is from the front with the wall still clamped in place. The second is from the back with the wall removed.
 

 

 
In the first picture you might notice that there are only three screws installed. When I went to the hardware store I asked for 4 #8 screws and 4 #10 screws. The #10s were in case I needed a larger screw than I thought. What they gave me was 3 #8s, 3 #10s, and 2 #12s! I went back later and they gave me another #8 free.

 
One thing I forgot to do was wipe the glue where it had squeezed out! I got called out to do something else and forgot to do that. I may have to do some cleaning up of that area.

 
I initially attached the strip with a few small brads in predrilled holes (as seem in the photo). After this shot I clamped the piece in place, and screwed it in from the bottom.

 
The inlet ring is mounted against the housing (the way it comes from the manf.), not on the inside of the wood pieces. I have seen some booths where this was done. The inlet ring seals off the larger housing opening, and extends down close to the blades. This keeps the air from blowing back out this area. If you mount it on the inside of the wood, this pulls it way from the blades, and allows a large amount of blow back, into the booth, like leaving the end of the balloon open after blowing it up.

 
Next time I’m going to work on the top cover of the blower box, and install mounts for the filter.

The blower came in the mail, and I compared it to the drawing I had made from the manual. Except for a few minor details they were close. The only important difference was in the position of the screws holding the inlet ring on. In the manual, there were 8 holes set square with the body. On the blower I got, there were only 4, offset by 72 deg. from square.
 

 
I waited for the blower to arrive, before cutting anything, so this wasn’t a problem.

 
I wired on a plug, and tested the blower. Kurt has a point. The blower may be too powerful for this size booth, but I’m going to finish it, and see how it performs, with this blower.

 
As I mentioned before I am going to mount it with longer screws through the blower wall, into the holes normally used to mount the inlet ring.

 
As you can see the blower cannot be mounted flush with the wall, as the flange on the outlet protrudes past that surface of the housing (lower right). To overcome this I am placing a ¾” thick plywood ring between the housing and the wall.

 
I had originally thought that I would have to have some sort of metal ring on the inside of the wall, so that the screws would have a stronger seat. After mounting the blower though, I found that there was more than enough wood surrounding the screws, to prevent them pulling through, using just washers.

 
I cut the hole for the opening in the wall, and the wooden ring out with a saber saw. I would like to give a nod to a very nice saw that I borrowed from my neighbor. It is made by Bosch. That is the smoothest running saber saw I’ve ever used.

 
Here are two shots of the pieces, and another is of them arranged as they will be when assembled.
 

 

 

 
Note that at this point, I’ve already drilled the mounting holes. I took some care in getting the cuts smooth, but I didn’t go back and sand everything to a furniture grade finish.

 
I printed out my drawing, and attached it to the wall, at the marked center of the board. I then drilled the first hole per the drawing. Then I placed the inlet ring with one hole aligned with a drill bit in the hole, and the other holes aligned with the ones on the drawing. Using the ring as a guide I drilled the other three holes.

 
I then cut out the opening, and the ring. I clamped the wood ring in place and drilled the holes through it. Luckily I managed to get them all straight through both pieces, and the screws matched the holes in the housing. I drilled them by hand, as my drill press is buried at the moment, so I was quite pleased that they all came out correctly.

 
I then mounted the blower using 2” #8 sheet metal screws, and a #8 and #10 washer under each screw head.
 

 


 
I thought I was careful in getting the blower on correctly, but notice the arrow drawn on the blower wall in the first picture. It should be pointing up. Yes, I mounted the blower upside down! I then disassembled it all and remounted the blower correctly. Normally this wouldn’t matter, but the spray booth is not entirely square, and the wall will fit only one way, and I need the blower outlet to point toward one specific side of the booth. As I’m facing the front, the outlet has to go toward the right hand side (the left as seen from these pictures looking at the back of the booth).

 
I then temporarily mounted the blower and wall to the back of the booth. I will not be gluing this wall to the booth, but attaching it just with screws. I may have to remove it in the future for maintenance. I put it in place so that I could attach the glue strip along the bottom. I waited for this until now, to make sure everything would line up.

 
Here are three shots of the blower and wall put into place, while I was doing this. These shots are with the wall just wedged in place. I used clamps to hold everything tight while I was putting in the glue strip.

 

 

 

 
You can see in the pictures that the wall is sticking out a little at the top, before I clamped it tight.

 
The next two pictures are of the installed glue strip. The first is from the front with the wall still clamped in place. The second is from the back with the wall removed.
 

 

 
In the first picture you might notice that there are only three screws installed. When I went to the hardware store I asked for 4 #8 screws and 4 #10 screws. The #10s were in case I needed a larger screw than I thought. What they gave me was 3 #8s, 3 #10s, and 2 #12s! I went back later and they gave me another #8 free.

 
One thing I forgot to do was wipe the glue where it had squeezed out! I got called out to do something else and forgot to do that. I may have to do some cleaning up of that area.

 
I initially attached the strip with a few small brads in predrilled holes (as seem in the photo). After this shot I clamped the piece in place, and screwed it in from the bottom.

 
The inlet ring is mounted against the housing (the way it comes from the manf.), not on the inside of the wood pieces. I have seen some booths where this was done. The inlet ring seals off the larger housing opening, and extends down close to the blades. This keeps the air from blowing back out this area. If you mount it on the inside of the wood, this pulls it way from the blades, and allows a large amount of blow back, into the booth, like leaving the end of the balloon open after blowing it up.

 
Next time I’m going to work on the top cover of the blower box, and install mounts for the filter.

Thanks Russ. They are very tiny. Hard to get the right scale. Proof is always in the pudding. But they look fairly decent. 😁

The volutes you came up with look pretty good. Nice work.
 
Russ

The volutes are difficult. Following Chuck's example, I'm trying Sculpy. I am not a sculptor but his practicum made it look easy. Not. 
 
After trial is land error, finally got a system to produce some half decent volutes. 
 
Toothpicks are amazing tools. 

Well, I have actually made a few transoms...and realized I could still attempt the walnut with a different technique. Had to be very careful and drill out the perimeters of the Windows...then slowly carve them out. Glued the basswood window section together to give it strength after bending. Have a plan to attach thectransom and include windows in a different manner than Chucks method.
We we shall see. Looks nice off the ship...fingers crossed. 

It is your model so do what you think looks best. The grain is attractive.
Russ
 

Could not resist using the walnut on the transom. A little tung oil...and the grain really pops. It may be a mistake, but what the heck....


 
 

Very nice restoring work Michael,
and quite a task to get all those boats in order again, the result is good looking 
I`m just reminded of the boats fabrication I still have to push on when I get to that sequence...
 
Nils

I use Iwata airbrushes (HP-CH and HP-C+) for my magazine work, powered by an Iwata Smart Jet Pro compressor. All of my paints are thinned 50:50 with Mr Levelling Thinner. Those paints would be Gunze and Tamiya. I also use Mr Paint  http://mrpaint.sk which is pre-thinned and ready for immediate airbrush use.  
 
 

The blower came in the mail, and I compared it to the drawing I had made from the manual. Except for a few minor details they were close. The only important difference was in the position of the screws holding the inlet ring on. In the manual, there were 8 holes set square with the body. On the blower I got, there were only 4, offset by 72 deg. from square.
 

 
I waited for the blower to arrive, before cutting anything, so this wasn’t a problem.

 
I wired on a plug, and tested the blower. Kurt has a point. The blower may be too powerful for this size booth, but I’m going to finish it, and see how it performs, with this blower.

 
As I mentioned before I am going to mount it with longer screws through the blower wall, into the holes normally used to mount the inlet ring.

 
As you can see the blower cannot be mounted flush with the wall, as the flange on the outlet protrudes past that surface of the housing (lower right). To overcome this I am placing a ¾” thick plywood ring between the housing and the wall.

 
I had originally thought that I would have to have some sort of metal ring on the inside of the wall, so that the screws would have a stronger seat. After mounting the blower though, I found that there was more than enough wood surrounding the screws, to prevent them pulling through, using just washers.

 
I cut the hole for the opening in the wall, and the wooden ring out with a saber saw. I would like to give a nod to a very nice saw that I borrowed from my neighbor. It is made by Bosch. That is the smoothest running saber saw I’ve ever used.

 
Here are two shots of the pieces, and another is of them arranged as they will be when assembled.
 

 

 

 
Note that at this point, I’ve already drilled the mounting holes. I took some care in getting the cuts smooth, but I didn’t go back and sand everything to a furniture grade finish.

 
I printed out my drawing, and attached it to the wall, at the marked center of the board. I then drilled the first hole per the drawing. Then I placed the inlet ring with one hole aligned with a drill bit in the hole, and the other holes aligned with the ones on the drawing. Using the ring as a guide I drilled the other three holes.

 
I then cut out the opening, and the ring. I clamped the wood ring in place and drilled the holes through it. Luckily I managed to get them all straight through both pieces, and the screws matched the holes in the housing. I drilled them by hand, as my drill press is buried at the moment, so I was quite pleased that they all came out correctly.

 
I then mounted the blower using 2” #8 sheet metal screws, and a #8 and #10 washer under each screw head.
 

 


 
I thought I was careful in getting the blower on correctly, but notice the arrow drawn on the blower wall in the first picture. It should be pointing up. Yes, I mounted the blower upside down! I then disassembled it all and remounted the blower correctly. Normally this wouldn’t matter, but the spray booth is not entirely square, and the wall will fit only one way, and I need the blower outlet to point toward one specific side of the booth. As I’m facing the front, the outlet has to go toward the right hand side (the left as seen from these pictures looking at the back of the booth).

 
I then temporarily mounted the blower and wall to the back of the booth. I will not be gluing this wall to the booth, but attaching it just with screws. I may have to remove it in the future for maintenance. I put it in place so that I could attach the glue strip along the bottom. I waited for this until now, to make sure everything would line up.

 
Here are three shots of the blower and wall put into place, while I was doing this. These shots are with the wall just wedged in place. I used clamps to hold everything tight while I was putting in the glue strip.

 

 

 

 
You can see in the pictures that the wall is sticking out a little at the top, before I clamped it tight.

 
The next two pictures are of the installed glue strip. The first is from the front with the wall still clamped in place. The second is from the back with the wall removed.
 

 

 
In the first picture you might notice that there are only three screws installed. When I went to the hardware store I asked for 4 #8 screws and 4 #10 screws. The #10s were in case I needed a larger screw than I thought. What they gave me was 3 #8s, 3 #10s, and 2 #12s! I went back later and they gave me another #8 free.

 
One thing I forgot to do was wipe the glue where it had squeezed out! I got called out to do something else and forgot to do that. I may have to do some cleaning up of that area.

 
I initially attached the strip with a few small brads in predrilled holes (as seem in the photo). After this shot I clamped the piece in place, and screwed it in from the bottom.

 
The inlet ring is mounted against the housing (the way it comes from the manf.), not on the inside of the wood pieces. I have seen some booths where this was done. The inlet ring seals off the larger housing opening, and extends down close to the blades. This keeps the air from blowing back out this area. If you mount it on the inside of the wood, this pulls it way from the blades, and allows a large amount of blow back, into the booth, like leaving the end of the balloon open after blowing it up.

 
Next time I’m going to work on the top cover of the blower box, and install mounts for the filter.

Don't use brushes! Here is a talk by the owner of Badger Airbrush. Great info!
 
 

You can buy that on amazon prime $ 27.19 my reading glasses fit just fine behind the lenses

Just realize that no matter what set you choose, you will still have tunnel vision. It is just optics. You. Ight see ligght from your peripheral, but it will not be in focus. 

Nice production line Michael   Your approach to all this is enlightening; I am following with great interest.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Druxey,Yes a good Idea I shall certainly give this some attention. three of the boats had no thwarts in them (no doubt swept up in the debris of the event)
a couple of the boats on the starboard side have one or two thwarts missing with most showing some level of random curvature. only one of the port side boats had all the thwarts intact. 

 

 
Michael

I'm looking John, I'm looking.
well I made an interesting discovery and I am not quite sure how I missed it but this one will be tricky.
 
So easy to spot now but was more difficult earlier
 

 
The davits that sustained the most damage were in line with the aft funnel and got pretty twisted up. I noticed that the arms were stamped out of sheet so Bassett Lowke must have either jobbed out the stamping or made enough of these to have their own small punch press or fly press. 
 

 

 
I am going to be using one of the good davits as a pattern and will fabricate one out of some brass and paint it to look like the rest.
 
Michael