thibaultron

I don't know, but if you're bored waiting why not tie a few ratlines or something while the stuff does it's job ?
 
 Danny

One of the members in my club uses Sparex as a pickling agent and has been very hppy with the results.  The stuff can be had from any shop that sells jewelry supplies.
David B

Tinning: You should try it! Much more durable than paint or blackening, and if the parts should be galvanized, this is your best bet!
 
You are looking for "Tinnit", and easy to use solution, that normally is used to apply (electrolessly) a tin plate onto PCBs' copper traces. It works quite well on brass too.
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/er-18/tinnit-bright-tin-plate/1.html
 
Find an example here:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=967801&page=9#post11881171
where I used it on large scale brass rigging fittings.

I started the day by laying out the Keel on 1/8" Bass wood, Next I lofted out all the frames , I then laid out the 3/32" Bass wood for the Frames , Next I cut out the Keel and Frames, then did a dry fit. so far She's coming out right on the money . Next will be to true up the frames and detail them along with the Keel . Here are the results

For many years I have used "Thread Heaven" in place of beeswax. It never affects the color of some fibers as beeswax sometimes does. Any fuzzy fibers lay flat, for example on the rigging of my Bounty built over 60 years ago. Available from sewing stores and Amazon. Comes in a small cubic container and each .lasts me decades.

When you clean your airbrush, you should not need to disassemble the trigger mechanism. Clean out the cup (for gravity feed brushes) with a towel, rinse with cleaner and a brush to remove residue, run fresh cleaner through it. If you have to take anything apart, you may need to remove the needle and spray nozzle. Look up the Wargaming Consortium videos on YouTube.

JUst watched a bunch of your videos, Paul. Thanks!

Weldbond - The manufacturer - Frank T. Ross & Sons - is bit coy in how they write the product literature but they do state that it is P.V.Ac - which is polyvinyl acetate - PVA
It should be essentially the same as other PVA wood glues.
 
The way my brain stores and recalls info -  Weldbond also brings up Weldwood - the contact cement - which is not so good for our uses.
I built and use the thickness sander in NRG Ship Modeler's Shop Notes Vol. 1.  The platen is made from turned Rock Maple sized to fit a sheet of sand paper.  It has been difficult to find way to attach - reversibly - the sanding medium.  The way I do it now - use cloth backed medium - attach with Weldwood.  I have found that paint thinner solution Naphtha  works to unstick the medium. It does not dissolve it.  It makes it unsticky and produces removable curd-like lumps. 

Part 02
 
The first major concession to my skill level, is that I decided to leave the raised deck seams that came on the model. I was afraid I would scar the deck surface too much trying to remove them, and the plank width looks OK.
 
I assembled the hull, stem, stern post and deck, before looking closely enough at my plans. The detail on the stem area is not correct, and I had to remove it as detailed later, with everything together. If you are going to build this model, do those steps first!
 
I then filled the gaps at the joints with Tamiya putty, using shaped popsicle sticks to get into the tight spots. This putty sticks to skin well, so use gloves! Most of the filling was where the stem and stern posts meet the keel, as well as along the deck to hull seam.
 

Filled Gap at the stem keel gap
 

Filled gap at the stern post keel gap. You can also see where I will have to extend the rails to meet the transom.
 
I also cleaned up the wheel house and installed it and the cabin sides. These will all be painted white, so I figured why try assembling them after the individual parts were painted, then have to touch up the joints.
 
I had installed the railings when I discovered the problems in the bow area. Once again correcting them would have been easier before assembly.
 
The first minor problem is that while mostly correct, the stern railings need to extend further back, I’ll fix that a little later in the build.
 
Now to the modifications needed at the bow:
 

Plan Drawing of bow.
 

 
Assembly drawing from instructions
The model has the rails end at the, for lack of a better term, the knightheads. The large “H” shaped assembly that goes on either side of the bowsprit (5) butt. In the drawing they extend to the fore end of these (4). The “knightheads” as shown in the drawing (3), sit inside the hull, over the waterway area. There is a board that attaches between them over the top of the bowsprit butt.  On the model the knightheads are cast even with the outside of the hull, and the rails terminate at their aft edge (4). Additionally the bottom portion of the knightheads are cast on the hull and the tops and the cross piece are a separate casting that is to be glued on top of this (3A & 3B). With the draft necessary for the manufacture of each piece, this leaves them diamond shaped in cross section when done. Not flat. There is not enough “meat” on the parts to be able to shape them to look good, if I was willing to overlook the position error. Also you have to install the bowsprit before the top part can be installed. This makes fairing the two parts difficult, as the hull and bowsprit are different colors, and I plan to paint the hull before the bowsprit is installed. The bowsprit on the real skipjacks was varnished not painted, as simulated with tan paint on the cover art. The upper brace shown in the drawing (1) is cast poorly on the model. They are oversize, not straight, and one was broken on my model. I’ll have to make new ones. See the photo above of the Caleb Jones. The drawing, Bennett plans, and photos of other skipjacks show the trailboards as thin flat boards attached to the stem (2), with thin decorative trim along the top and bottom. On the model (2) these are deep ridges top and bottom, more like ribs (2). There is an additional board above the railings at the top of the knighthead (4), not quite as long as the knighthead. Below are photos of the bow after I had removed the stem brace and trailboard ribs, but before I had removed the cast knightheads.
 

Partially modified stem area.
 

Rails end too far aft, also a better view if the filled gap between the stem and keel
 

Hull trimmed flush at bow
 
I added one of the new knightheads, it still has to be trimmed for length and height
 

New port knighthead
 

New port knighthead
 
The kit transom had the name Carrie Price cast in raised letters. I figured that this was unlikely on a workboat. Tacked on wood letters would rot quickly, and as described earlier the Push Boat would probably damage them. The other option would be to have them carved into the transom. These too might be damaged over the life of the skipjack. Also the pictures I found had painted lettering, so I decided to go with decals. I filed and sanded the letters off.
 

Transom name E. C. Collier. Note the rudder safety chains at the base of the rudder, and the attachment for the steering gear.
 

Sanded transom
 
To be continued.

Part 01
 
This is a build of the Skipjack Carrie Price using the Pyro Chesapeake Skipjack Oyster Boat model kit.
After some research I found out that the Lindberg/Pyro kit is a model of the Carrie Price as recorded by Howard Chapelle. After I started the kit I found the name cast on the transom, but had not noticed it before I started my research. The Carrie Price is one of the projects in “American Ship Models and How to Build Them” by V. R. Grimwood and Howard I. Chapelle. I am using the plans in this book to build and update this kit. I am planning to depict her as build around 1895. I’m not going to make this a museum quality model, but will do my best to make it a good one. According to the Chapelle drawings the model comes as close as I could measure to 1/64th scale, the same as the book drawings.
This will be somewhat of a slow build, as I am also working to expand my shed/shop, and the finished section is a mess, with “stuff” from the unfinished portion (enclosed, but no insulation, electric, etc.) piled into the finished area and my work area. Also I decided to do this build log after I had partially assembled the hull, so I will have to describe some of what I have done so far, without the benefit of before and after photos, in the first parts. I also have the help of cats in writing this build, so have to take frequent “Look, I want attention, so I’m sitting/walking/sleeping on your keyboard.” breaks.
This is my first model in quite some time and my first build log ever, so please bear with me, if you decide to follow this along with me.
I do not know all the correct names for all the various parts of the boat, but will do my best.
Modeling suggestions and corrections to the names I use for the parts welcome!
I will be using information in the Grimwood book, information I found on line, the drawings for the Willie Bennett by Model Shipways, and the book “Model Boat Building: The Skipjack” by Steve Rogers.
 

Box Cover Art
 
The kit is fairly close to what is shown in the drawings, but does have several problems. Here is a list of those I have found so far:
Minor, but paint scheme shown on box wrong. The Chesapeake Boatmen were superstitious about painting blue on their boats, the exception being blue in the field of the American flag, or bunting. This was generally used only on the trailboard decoration. Also the decks were painted white, not left natural. Red copper paint was also the standard at the time for the anti-fouling paint. The cabin tops were generally green or a slate gray, from my research, still looking into this. The trailboards below the bowsprit were ornate, the kit has nothing decal or otherwise for them. I have no information on what the Carrie Price’s trailboards looked like, so I will use a modification of those detailed in the Willie Bennett kit. The Bennett trailboards have features that are common on examples I found of other trailboards. (besides I already redrew the Bennett’s trailboards for my own use). Additionally the drawings indicate a bird figurehead at the end of the trailboards. The Bennett has such a figurehead. I will use the same graphic as on the Bennett drawing on the end of these trailboards. I plan to print one on the end of the trailboard graphic, and then shape the profile of the stem to match. I will not try to crave a 3D figurehead.
Trailboard Ida May
 

Trailboard for Caleb W. Jones. Note the stem brace that is similar to the Carrie Prices.
 

Trailboard of the Nathan Dorchester
 

Port trailboard graphic I will be using for the Carrie Price. It will be about 2 inches long on the model.
 

Here is a roughly cut print of the port trailboard placed on the model to see what it would look like. The print is cut  too thin at the fore end to fit between the soon to be removed detail. Note also the original railing and knightheads. I have just started to remove the stem detailing at this point.
 
The numbering for the points below should have started with 4,5, etc. but somehow was reset when I copied the text to this post, and I can't seem to change it. Please bear with me as I learn.
As an interesting side note, if you look at the pictures of the Jones and Dorchester, the bowsprit does not rest on the stem much past the hull, on these two. I’ll have to look closer at the Bennett plans and the Rogers book. There are some major fit problems in the pieces, nothing that can’t be fixed with some putty, but they must be corrected for a good looking finished model. See the stem keel joint in the cover art picture. There is no oyster dredging equipment included in the model. This is actually a bonus for me, as she was built before the use of power dredging winches, and thus the deck casting has no marks where the winch parts might be attached. The down side is that I will have to build 2 hand powered winches, for which I have found some photos/drawings, but none with dimensions. The stem in the trailboard/rail/ bowsprit area is incorrect. I’ll explain when I get to that section. See the heavy detailing on the box top The railings in the bow and stern do not extend far enough. Rope coil castings in the deadeye and stern railing areas are terrible and incorrect, I will remove them. The mast is a little crude, but most importantly badly warped. I will have to make a new one. The boom is also warped, but I may be able to use it with modification. The casting is fairly straight side to side, but curved vertically fore and aft. The long booms on the real boats sagged, but my boom is curved up rather than down! I have not decided whether to make a new one (with or without sag), or remove the sail attachment detail from the top of the boom, invert it and remake that detail. I’m leaning toward making a new one, with detailing that matches the proportions of the ones on the mast I will have to make. The furled sails are just wrong! The jib is not too bad, in real life it would have been furled tighter, but this could pass. The main sail on the other hand angles in the opposite direction from the mast rake! The main sail is attached to the mast via mast hoops and thus the leading edge should always be close to the mast, it can’t pull away as shown in the model. I’ll make new sails, I have not decided whether furled or set. I can use the plans from my Willie Bennett kit for rigging, and sail construction. On the prototype skipjacks the bowsprit has made with a downward curved hog or bow. This was cut into the  shape of the bowsprit, it was not steamed in from a straight spar. On the model the bowsprit is a straight spare. Also, as is not atypical on plastic models, the fittings on this, the mast, and the boom are cast quite massively. The model part also has no round to octagonal to square transition area, as shown in the plans. The model overall though is accurate in dimension and overall shape, a good starting point.
As a note: The kit includes two ship’s boats, this is correct. The large boxes in interior are also correct. They are engine covers. Maryland law dictates that the skipjack itself may not have an engine, sail driven only. This is a measure to limit oyster harvesting in hopes of preventing overfishing. The auxiliary though is allowed an engine. If the wind is insufficient for dredging the boat, oddly enough called a “Push Boat” is lowered and used to push the skipjack. If the wind is good, the boat is not used. The second boat provided is the one used to get from the shore/dock, to a moored skipjack. The engines on the auxiliaries were generally automobile or similarly sized motors.
 

Push Boat drawing from Nation Archives. Note the lack of a rudder. The Push Boat direction is controlled by steering lines (see below).
 

Push Boat in operation. Note the rigging for controlling the direction of thrust, from Nation Archives.
 

Push Boat “Thrust Pad” on the E. C. Collier, from Nation Archives
 
I will show some small sections of the plans to illustrate where I will be making some of the modifications. Other than the hull/railing details above , most will be in the rigging area, so I will just show photos of my progress for that.

Part 02
 
The first major concession to my skill level, is that I decided to leave the raised deck seams that came on the model. I was afraid I would scar the deck surface too much trying to remove them, and the plank width looks OK.
 
I assembled the hull, stem, stern post and deck, before looking closely enough at my plans. The detail on the stem area is not correct, and I had to remove it as detailed later, with everything together. If you are going to build this model, do those steps first!
 
I then filled the gaps at the joints with Tamiya putty, using shaped popsicle sticks to get into the tight spots. This putty sticks to skin well, so use gloves! Most of the filling was where the stem and stern posts meet the keel, as well as along the deck to hull seam.
 

Filled Gap at the stem keel gap
 

Filled gap at the stern post keel gap. You can also see where I will have to extend the rails to meet the transom.
 
I also cleaned up the wheel house and installed it and the cabin sides. These will all be painted white, so I figured why try assembling them after the individual parts were painted, then have to touch up the joints.
 
I had installed the railings when I discovered the problems in the bow area. Once again correcting them would have been easier before assembly.
 
The first minor problem is that while mostly correct, the stern railings need to extend further back, I’ll fix that a little later in the build.
 
Now to the modifications needed at the bow:
 

Plan Drawing of bow.
 

 
Assembly drawing from instructions
The model has the rails end at the, for lack of a better term, the knightheads. The large “H” shaped assembly that goes on either side of the bowsprit (5) butt. In the drawing they extend to the fore end of these (4). The “knightheads” as shown in the drawing (3), sit inside the hull, over the waterway area. There is a board that attaches between them over the top of the bowsprit butt.  On the model the knightheads are cast even with the outside of the hull, and the rails terminate at their aft edge (4). Additionally the bottom portion of the knightheads are cast on the hull and the tops and the cross piece are a separate casting that is to be glued on top of this (3A & 3B). With the draft necessary for the manufacture of each piece, this leaves them diamond shaped in cross section when done. Not flat. There is not enough “meat” on the parts to be able to shape them to look good, if I was willing to overlook the position error. Also you have to install the bowsprit before the top part can be installed. This makes fairing the two parts difficult, as the hull and bowsprit are different colors, and I plan to paint the hull before the bowsprit is installed. The bowsprit on the real skipjacks was varnished not painted, as simulated with tan paint on the cover art. The upper brace shown in the drawing (1) is cast poorly on the model. They are oversize, not straight, and one was broken on my model. I’ll have to make new ones. See the photo above of the Caleb Jones. The drawing, Bennett plans, and photos of other skipjacks show the trailboards as thin flat boards attached to the stem (2), with thin decorative trim along the top and bottom. On the model (2) these are deep ridges top and bottom, more like ribs (2). There is an additional board above the railings at the top of the knighthead (4), not quite as long as the knighthead. Below are photos of the bow after I had removed the stem brace and trailboard ribs, but before I had removed the cast knightheads.
 

Partially modified stem area.
 

Rails end too far aft, also a better view if the filled gap between the stem and keel
 

Hull trimmed flush at bow
 
I added one of the new knightheads, it still has to be trimmed for length and height
 

New port knighthead
 

New port knighthead
 
The kit transom had the name Carrie Price cast in raised letters. I figured that this was unlikely on a workboat. Tacked on wood letters would rot quickly, and as described earlier the Push Boat would probably damage them. The other option would be to have them carved into the transom. These too might be damaged over the life of the skipjack. Also the pictures I found had painted lettering, so I decided to go with decals. I filed and sanded the letters off.
 

Transom name E. C. Collier. Note the rudder safety chains at the base of the rudder, and the attachment for the steering gear.
 

Sanded transom
 
To be continued.

Nice work and very good detail in tying the knot.
 
In 1/100 scale it would be a little more difficult with fine thread don't you think.
 
I CA the groove and lay thread over till dry then wind round thread and tie/ seize ether loop or long length.








foxy

I like the fly tying vise, might get one of those.
A friend set me up with needle nose tweezers mounted to a third-hand work stand.  Clamp the block in there and position where you can get to everything.  Radio Shack has small all-copper alligator clips.  Pass the line around the block to where both ends come out towards you.  Apply the alligator clip, pulling the two ends up tight.  Using thin line (thread) between the clip and block tie a series of half hitches around the pair of 'tails' until they are secure (usually four hitches suffice).  Put a drop of glue on (please not CA)  and you can take the clip off.  Combine that with whatever sort of thimble, hook, pendant, tackle you need and you should be good to go.
 
This is about a 1/8" block, I have done down to 3mm.
 

Another thing to consider is most smaller blocks need the groove for the strop filed deeper. It takes a little time but I tidy up very block this way, as well as reaming out the sheave hole . 

Here is another way to use a clamp or hemostats to hold the block while attaching a line around it. The video is primarily intended to show what seizings are all about but it also shows how I hold the block. I have five of these clamps (some with a curved end) and have adjusted the gap by carefully bending one of the handles using a vise. That way I can clamp parts of various thicknesses. Shop around and you can find them at lots of different places for a couple dollars each.
 

I simply make a loop with a granny knot the pinch the loop and block between my finger and thumb in my left hand the pull one of the tails tight and tie off a second granny knot and secure with the smallest dabs of SG. Works for me down to 2mm blocks and have done so with a good few of them.N
 
Norman

Hi,
I make jig for rigging works with blocks, jards and masts.
Thanks to the a rope tensioning springs installed is  easy to work with ropes
and their attachment to the blocks.
Tadeusz
 

I use the Constrictor Knot in these situations. Its a very simple, very compact, very strong knot perfect for seizing. Here is a tutorial I put up a while back on the most simple method of tying this great useful knot: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4029-the-constrictor-knot/?hl=constrictor
Tie the constrictor ahead of time in the small stuff you are using for the seizing, don't pull the knot tight yet, leave the loops wide open. Pass a bight of the heavier thread you are using for the blocks strop THROUGH the Constrictor Knots loop and then over and around your tiny little block. As mentioned above, clip your block into the holding contraption of your choice.
Pull the two ends of the Constrictor Knot tight. The knot will Constrict and from now on it will behave like a collar that will NOT loosen, you can take your hands off it and it stays put. Pull the two ends of your stropping material apart and work the Constrictor Knot down snug against your tiny little block.
The beauty of the Constrictor Knot is that it will HOLD when you tighten it. You can tug and pull it to manipulate it where you want it to go. You can use the two leftover long ends to put more turns on your throat seizing or you can just cut the ends short.

To handle the CA take a brass wire and insert it into a dowel. Then form a small ring in the end of it. Put a drop of CA on a piece of parchment paper or some other surface it will not soak in on. Then take your block wrap the line tightly around it and hold the two loose ends between your fingers. With the other hand dip the ring in the ca and touch it to the rigging on the side of the block. Use thin CA and it will immediately adhere to the line and block. The tool allows you to contro, the amount of CA you apply. This is what i found works for me.

First I clamp the block in my vise. I use tweezers to hold the block while I tighten the clamp. Then I brush a liberal amount of diluted PVA around the groove and also dampen the line with it  - this helps hold the line in place. Then I loop the line around the block and tie an overhand knot in the line, brush on a bit more PVA if needed, and pull it tight and adjust it so it hangs realistically. Then I clean up any excess glue with a Q-tip. Finally I snip the tail off after the glue has dried.
 
  Danny

I use old broken Drills to hold them :-)
 

 
                                          #374                         
 
XXXDAn

Get yourself a cheap fly tying vice - used for making flys in flyfishing. There are lots available on EBay. It will grip any block (or any other part for that matter) firmly and allow you both hands free to work. For really small blocks use in combination with a magnifier on a stand.
 

I agree with that. It takes about an hour to go through and setting guide-bearings, thrust-bearings, making sure the wheels are running true with the blade centered. Then squaring up the table in the X and Y directions to the blade. These are things that need to be done with any of them to ensure good performance. 

Bandsaws come from the factory needing a tune up.  There are several good websites and books available that go through a step by step procedure.  Not difficult to do unless something is really out of kilter.  Biggest single improvement is alining the wheels.  That alone will eliminate a lot of vibration.  Other things like truing up the tires and getting all the bolts tight will further improve things.  Take an hour to go through your new bandsaw and you will be much happier with its performance.

A few months ago, I picked up this Rikon 10" band saw model # 10-305, and found it to be really quiet, which is important here in an apartment type setting. It came with a 1/4" x 70-1/2" blade and 4 tpi, and will cut stock 4-15/16" thick. They run around $300 US. They are all steel and cast, with no plastic, a 1/3 horse motor at 3.5 amps, and come with a 5 year warranty. They are 77lbs, and as I said very quiet, not bolted down, and setting on wood.