thibaultron

Wow that looks fantastic!
 
Did you have to turn it over after each cut pass? How do you keep things aligned if you do?

Wow ! Those are outstanding looking blocks. 

Yes CNC and 3d printing has its advantages.  But laser cutting at an advanced level can produce some excellent results with some creativity.  
 
Below is an experiment of mine I would like to eventually translate to cnc.  But as you can see you can achieve shapes and details with a laser cutter that most wouldnt have guessed.  The double blocks below were entirely laser cut. 
 

In fact these are laser cut using just Yellow Cedar.  The color is all the laser char.  A quick dip in Ebony stain and you have some really nice blocks.  The laser cutting was done all four sides.  Pushing the limits of the machine.  Four of these little sticks took about 7 minutes or less of actual laser cutting.  Thats not bad for 24 pretty acceptable double
blocks.
 
i would like to apply this same technique to the Hobby CNC machines out there and see if they cross over.
 

Thanks to everyone for the fine comments and suggestions - it is always so appreciated.
 
And thanks for the likes and to those watching quietly.
 
 
Not a bunch accomplished on the diorama in the last several weeks, but here's an update on what I have done.
 
More Garage Equipment - Acetylene Torch
 
I don't have any in-process photos to share with you on this torch.  It was one of those constructions where I spent most of my time tossing things in the trash with nothing of value to show.  In the end, I was happy just to get the thing finished, such as it is.
 
I began by gathering materials - .005” brass shim stock, phosphor/bronze wire (.012” and .02” dia), assorted styrene rods, a scrap stick of white-metal that scaled to 9” dia., some chain, some insulated wire and a couple of injection molded wheels.
 

 
 
The white-metal stick was cut into two lengths, chucked into my hand drill and worked with needle files until they resembled a pair of tanks. The cart is mostly brass and bronze soldered together.  A brass wire axle was inserted through the cart and the wheels glued on.  The tanks are colored with permanent markers for a translucent effect.  Green oxygen and red acetylene are modern tank colors and probably not the standard in 1940. Conspicuous by its absence is the torch/nozzle itself, which I'm pretending is hanging behind the cart.
 
So you may be wondering why I chose chain large enough to anchor a steamship for the tanks' safety chain.  Actually, this chain is 40 LPI and I haven't found anything finer than this that still resembles actual link chain.  Fine chain is so useful in modeling and if anyone knows a source please share.  The hoses are also on the large side, but it's one of those strange eye/mind things where the proper size looked flimsy and wrong.
 


 
Drill Press
 
I need a piece of equipment to be positioned against the left wall and up front towards the shadowbox glass.  Because it's right up front, it needs to be fairly detailed.  I had originally intended for the arbor press to be placed there, but I now feel that in profile it isn't that interesting visually.  And I wonder how many non-mechanical people would know what it is or what it's used for.  So I decided on a floor drill press to fill the slot.  It has an interesting shape and recognizable by most people.  The arbor press will be stationed elsewhere.
 
As a reference to build from I chose model #71 from Atlas Manufacturing that dates to 1933-36. 
 
 
 
Although it isn't mechanically complicated, it is of course the size that provides the challenge in making it.  In 1:87 it is less that 7/8” (22mm) in height.  It is a delicate little thing and a tad exasperating.
 
I began with the spindle head which is simply two short sections of brass tubing wrapped in paper.  The paper is the sticky part of a Post-It note and it holds things together long enough to saturate it with thin CA.  You wouldn't know it by looking at the photo below, but the brass tube on the right is slightly larger than the one on the left as it accepts the main post.
 

 
 
The lower part of the spindle is glued in and also the main post.  The spindle is tapered to mimic a chuck and a thin wall brass tube is slid on over the top.  I have a decent collection of fine brass and phosphor/bronze wire as well as a good selection of ultra fine tubing in brass, nickel and stainless. These materials proved to be very handy in making this drill press.
 

 
 
I then made up the table/bracket from styrene and attached it to another section of tubing that will slide fit onto the main post.
 

 
 
The base.
 

 
 
I decided to leave out the spindle head pulley guard for two reasons.  First, I wanted to show the pulleys and belt as a visual detail, and secondly (the honest reason) is that making a multi-dimensional cowl guard that is less than 1/8” in size would cause permanent psychological scarring.
 
The pulleys are made by slide fitting brass tubing into one another and leaving an equal reveal between them.  I soldered them together and cut off the pulley.
 

 
 
The motor is made up and pulley added.  This was simple to make because it's just pieces of round things fitting into other round things.  The “bearings” are a single brass tube with a wire run through it which in turn slide fits into a piece of styrene tube.  I added a band of paper around the center of the motor to suggest separate bearing bell housings.
 

 
 
A second pulley was pushed onto a brass rod and glued into the spindle top.  In the image below you can see a depth gauge has been added and a short horizontal tube that along with an identical one on the opposite side will hold the motor.
 
 
Front view.
 

 
 
Pushing two dress maker's pins through paper and into the motor mountings gave me the distance between the mounting rods which was then transferred to the motor base.
 

 
 

 
 
The three spokes on the feed wheel are .008” phosphor/bronze chemically colored with Jax Flemish Gray.  The ends of the wire were dipped into a craft product called Gallery Glass to create the knobs.  The knobs will be painted black.  The wheel center is styrene stretched to the diameter I wanted.
 

 
 
Adjustment handles of different sizes were also made up. 
 

 
 
All that was left is to glue it together and add some paint.  Touch ups are still needed as seen in the photo below, but I used enamel – silver, steel, gray and black.  I added a styrene table face to the base.  The belt is 8 lb. ice fishing jigging line and it has a sort of oval/flat cross section. 
 

 
 
Done.
 

 
 
And both items are glued into place on the dio.
 

 
Thanks for taking a look. 
 
Be safe and stay well.
 
Gary

Blacken it is no longer made.  It was a small business - husband and wife - they were killed in a car accident a few years ago and the company died with them. 

These erasers may work, but personally I have never found a better system than the one described by Greg at     
https://modelshipworld.com/topic/21710-blackening-revisited/?tab=comments#comment-651453    It is a fail safe method. The pickling will give you the "rough" clean surface.  An eraser like you describe by itself probably will not work without pickling so may as well skip the eraser as it will not add any advantage to this system.   The only problem in the write up is I that I have not been able to find Blacken It for a couple years as I am pretty sure it is no longer available.   Birchwood Casey is probably the next best solution to use, although I find a dilution of about 3 or 4 to 1 works better than 7 to 1 for this particular product. 
 
Allan

Mustafa,
 
I think DELFTship is a Windows-only platform, sadly.
 
But like Roger said, you can create stations along the length of the hull in both profile and top views. Then pick off heights and breadths of the "chine" lines at each station and plot them in the body plan view. When you connect the dots with with straight lines at each station, you have your third view.
 
The harder part will be generating the true shapes of the plywood planks. I think this can be done by drawing diagonals in the body plan view for each plank, then picking off the distances from the associated diagonal of the top and bottom edges (chines) at each station. This sounds more complicated than it actually is. [Edit: If there is a twist to the plank, I'm not sure this will actually work.]
 
Terry

This would not be hard to do as this is a “hard chine” boat.  The dotted lines represent the chines in each view.  For each section simply measure distances from the centerline in the plan view and above and below from the waterline, plot, and connect the points with straight lines.  No CADD program is needed.
 
Roger

Thank you Terry.
 
I need a tutorial or video for creating 3 d model with only two views and then creating the cross sections and finally cutting files.
 
Let me see if I can install DELFTShip Free to latest ubuntu.

Hello,
 
I think no important top drawing is missing.
 
I can use blender or freeship. Isnt it possible to match two- top+side- views to create 3d model ? Is there a video or tutorial for such application ? I want to create flat cross sections first than the plywood cutting files.

Hello Mustafa,
 
I think it may be doable. The interrupted lines in the plan and profile views represent edges of developable sheets of plywood. The body plan view can provide the true widths of the sheets at the dead flat point. So your software should be able to create the necessary pieces in 3D.
 
Does your software "unwrap" surfaces to create the plywood templates? If not, I recommend DELFTship Free. This program also allows you to create truly developable parts using visual cues such as solid colors.
 
Let me know if I can be of further help.
 
Terry

This reminds me of the USS Monitor. She was rediscovered, I believe in the 70s, upside down on the ocean bottom, mostly intact. Then the government experts chimed in. The location was too exposed to shipping , the currents were too strong, the wreck too fragile! two decades later, all that was left was the iron work, and they only recovered the turret, engines, and some of the plate, the wood they were so concerned with preserving had fallen apart, anyway. They could have at least done extensive photo work.

Without actual section stations  other than the one provided. your only option would be to invent them yourself.
 
Some of your top drawings appear to be missing also.

Hello there, as you could see at attached boat plan drawing , there are only top and side view drawings have been presented. I want to create sections drawings to cut from plywood. I have only Freeship software on latest Ubuntu OS. Can you help me ?
 
Mustafa Umut Sarac
Istanbul

The problems in saving this magnificent wreck are unfortunately inherent with human nature.
 
First of all our’s is a technical, specialized discipline with it’s own history and language.  At least here in the US, criteria for historic preservation are written by govt. bureaucrats and reflect the current political fads about our history.  Engineering on its own has been unfashionable since the 1960’s, with military history a close second.
 
Second, I suspect that there is a Lot of “not invented here” on the part of the archeologists, so that people that actually have specialized expertise get the cold shoulder.
 
A case in point is the Sutton Hoo wreck recently publicized on NETFLIX.  The wreck was identified by a highly knowledgeable amateur investigator leading to a fight with the archeologists.
 
Roger

Test fit 

And finally the metal bracing 

Thank you all.
Now, I also see that can't be something else...
Thx
 

Good question, Bob! I will be constructing as a RC model. I will be searching cost for all components, but if it gets too expensive I will let this model go as static. Thanks for reminding me.
John

Thanks John. I spent 1 1/2 years on the Coast Guard Cutter Storis tumbling around the Bering Sea and the Gulf of Alaska and then 2 1/2 years on the 40 footers based at the Captain-of-the-Port Los Angeles/Long Beach Station way back in 1966-70. 
 
Are you planning to make your radio controlled or a static model? It seems like Dumas specializes in RC models.

Thank you Bob! Thank you for your dedicated 40 years! We sure need folks as you. 
John

I'm always happy to see a Coast Guard model being built here. There aren't too many kits available. I'm a Coast Guard veteran and I've been thinking of building the Dumas Coast Guard 40 foot utility boat at some point since I was a coxswain on them many years ago. Good luck on your build.

Yes it is Mark. I am not sure where I should have posted. Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Thank you friend. 
John

Is this a build log?   If it is, let me know and move it to the proper forum and subforum.

The beginning. Let us hope and pray that I take my time, think everything through, cut safely, Sand carefully, measure two, three, or four times before I cut, always cut outside the line, apply epoxy or resin in small quantities, and clip with pins to hold together. I have also begun trimming the boat's cradle with cushioning (not pictured), and away we go. Take good care friends. 
 
John