Don Quixote

This ship uses a wood called Tanganyka. I think it's made in China. Soak it, steam it, iron it. Shreds like cereal. Cut it? No way, splinters. No matter how gentle you use the knife. I've actually had better luck sanding it.

I can definitely see the advantages after using this and the basswood.

Here's my verdict:

Bluenose, $140 at model expo or $190 at Amazon.

Boxwood, $45

Practicum, $120

$305, tax, shipping call it $340.

Either way at my allowance I'll get back to you about her in a few months.

Actually, I think I'll order boxwood for the bluenose and stick with the one planking that's on it.

Bluenose practicum

https://lauckstreetshipyard.com/

The ship

http://www.modelexpo-online.com/product.asp?ITEMNO=MS2130

I'm seriously thinking about it. Saving my penny's for the bluenose and it's practicum. I understand the practicum has 13 pages dedicated to planking alone.

 

I would consider getting some sticks cut for you.

That would be wonderful! At least let me pay for postage. Cash on Delivery or something. Let me know if you're unclear on what sises I need. In fact if you would get 2 complete sets, that'd be awesome!

The 2nd layer is supposed to be .5X3mm walnut. The 1st planking was 4X1 mm walnut. Why waste Walnut on a 1st planking? I dunno. I'm not sure of much with this model and it's English as a 5th language.

It took 32 planks for both sides of the hull. I have 11 for the 2nd planking. As I understand it, Mamoli is down for a while due to a fire.

Thanks, Sam

Truth time. I had a seizure some time back - the kind where you hit the ground and shake and when the ambulance comes, it takes an hour to remember what day it was - that has caused me neurological issues, from occasional loss of motor control (I move like Elvis) to an inability to concentrate and follow anything. Tv shows to models. I am also bi-polar so sometimes I don't feel like working on my ship. I know you're all friends, so I know you'll understand.

I understand that. My mind can't wrap around that yet.

LOL. When I understand this process I'll be delighted to get my first set

The only references are in those plans on page 1.

So how should the lay, Carl?

From the book. Any one care to help me decipher?

Second planking. Glue “C” shaped sheer strake 33 (1.5x3 Box wood) taking care that it does not follow the same curve of the planking, but must on the contrary be positioned as follows, referring to the lower line of the sheer strake: 2.5 mm above the upper part of the fore port hole; 1 mm above the fifth and 4 mm above the tenth. Glue 2 strips 34 on the sheer-strake (at stem one is enough) then strip 35, at last complete upper sheathing with strips 36.

What’s a sheer strake?

I'm debating between the bluenose or the Baltimore next. No guns, but let's face it, I'm no challenge for wood.

I have no intention of giving this one up.

A lateral bend, right?

See example below:

I take several of those stiff card board recipe pages from the Admiral and measure each bulk head. (BHD?)

Longest bulkhead is 64 mm. Stern is 64 mm. Stem is 32. How hard can that be? Instructions say from BHD 4 forward, trim to 2 mm.

One problem may be that the deck itself is shaped? How can I follow that if the very first plank is bent to follow that deck? I always end up over crowded at the very BEGINNING, not near the end.

Another that may be is that I have a hard time measuring the stem.

See post 89 here. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6701-niagara-1813-by-justblowininthewind-model-shipways-164-first-build/page-5

I take a piece of paper and write Bulk Head               1      2       3      4      5...etc.      12

Then I enter the measurement in mm                         32   44      56    64    64...          64

Max number of planks =  16 

Number of planks at stem should preferably be 16, so 32 mm / 16 = 2 which agrees with the instructions. Each should be tapered in half.                                                     

Victory does only a few ships.

Found Practicum's on both Model Ship Ways ships, bluenose and Baltimore. $120 each including a cd. I think it was the Baltimore that has some 30 pages dedicated to planking for that specific ship. Liking the Baltimore. 12 instruction booklets. I just asked what's on the cd specifically. Photo's of the ship, or instructions?

And this said nothing about a bearding line.

Well, that was a disaster. I did better on the Niagara and this should have been easier. Instructions say that from the 4th bulkhead forward all planks should be 1/2 width. They say the stern should be fine as is. Stern went pretty well, but I got the clinker effect on one side near the stem. of course.

Note: I deliberately did not lay one plank on each side at a time. I wanted 2 hulls to learn from, not mess up both the same way. No idea how I got the clinker effect. I bent nothing latterly. Second side was better, but it looked like it was dipping right away and I decided to add a half steeler. Bad idea. Toward the gun ports I had to make 2 planks into half. Not sure if that's the righ terms.

Thanks man for wood filler and I guess I'll double plank her after all. I don't care if both sides are symmetrical as long as I learn.

Any thoughts on Model shipways Bluenose? Doesn't say if it''s intermediate or advanced, but doesn't look like it should be too bad.

 

Depends on how you've got your hull

That's it. If I start from beneath the gun ports and move down toward the garber plank. Top being gun ports, bottom being garber plank, should the tapering/beveling be on the top of the planks, or the bottom?

I'm reading that any tapering and beveling should be on the top of the plank. Is that with the hull right side up, or upside down?

Where would a person find a practicum for the HM Bomb Vessel Granado 1:64 by Victory? I don't want sails to hide the he** I'll go through rigging.

I just bought the HM Bomb Vessel Granado 1:64 by Victory and the Lady's Cutter. I'll let you know what I think when they get here.

I didn't know you could check model shipways plans first. I see them under documentation now. Thanks!

The context may have been in the message before.

Actually it sounds like I may be on the right track from your log.

Please wait moment. I'm going to try something. I have some light weight card stock. If I do this in 3 strakes, 6 planks each. Should be close at the stern, else I can add a stealer. Let's assume for now that 18 planks will work at the stern as well as amid ship. I'll measure down the middle bulkhead 6 planks, mark it, same at the stern. Then on the stem, I'll reduce it to 2 mm per plank. Mark it at 6 mm. Run the strake down below the marks, measure down 6 more planks MINUS the width of the strake, mark it and strake it.

I think I recall reading something about that.

Actually, do I have to subtract the width of the strake? Measure 6 planks down, mark it and then measure 6 more planks, mark it... Put the strakes just below the line.