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robnbill

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Everything posted by robnbill

  1. robnbill
    Okay, I ordered the plane set as well. Damn you guys!
  2. robnbill
    You guys convinced me. I have a set of the chisels on order.
  3. robnbill
    Since we are on the subject of dust, there are two primary sources of dust from a tool. The dust that get's sucked down by the tool through the dust port and that dust thrown by the tool out into the air. The former would get collected by the cyclone, or other dust collector attached to the tools dust port. The other generally is a much finer dust and can hang in the air for a long time. This ambient dust is what we breath in when in the shop and not using a respirator and is a health danger. It is also what collects on everything in the shop. The only way to handle the ambient dust is to change the air. This could be a strong window fan that pulls air from outside the shop and blows the dust laden air outside. His is not too practical in northern climates. However, there are a number of great ambient dust collectors made by various vendors that recirculate the shop air through filters (just like in your HVAC system. These can do a great job pulling this fine dust from the air.
  4. robnbill
    Congrats. If possible, I would also get some 220/240V circuits at least run to the shop space. If you decide to get a full size Table Saw or other full size tools, having a 240 circuit accessible without significant rewiring makes your job a great deal easier. I would also suggest having a sub-panel put into the shop for those circuits int eh shop. It makes resetting a circuit a lot easier than having to run to another part of the house to reset it. For those areas you will be installing benches, having 110v outlets above the bench level is a great option for plugging hand tools in without having to get on your knees digging around under the bench. Also, there are a number of great options now in LED lighting. You might want to look at some of those options. The cool thing about a new workshop is envisioning all the great projects to be built there!
  5. robnbill
    Julie, If you take a pencil and draw where you want the planks to fall on the hull, you can overlay the lined hull with scotch tape. Then transfer the lines to the tape. Once that is done it is simple to peel the tape off the hull and stick it on your wood. Cut to the lines then do final detailed shaping with sandpaper until you get the plank to lay up to the previous one to your satisfaction. That has worked for me.
  6. robnbill
    Thanks all. My hand is great now. I am setting up to start building the masting. I have a couple of things on order. Once they arrive, I should be ready to start posting again!
  7. robnbill
    Try using a center punch in the strip before you try drilling the holes. It doesn't have to be so deep as to deform the strip. A small dimple will keep the bit from wandering.
  8. robnbill
    Julie, proportional dividers are a fantastic tool when planking. If you look on eBay you can find some great deals. It is not like there are many parts that go bad. I found an excellent pair for a fraction of the price I would have had to pay for a new pair.
  9. robnbill
    Looking great. The only advice I would give when drilling the holes is once you do think you have everything aligned, drill the first hole with a very small drill bit. Then you can stick a small nail into it and check your angles both directions. Then you can gradually increase the size of your drill bits until you have the correct size for your mast. Lastly, for the final bits, try reversing the drill bit (if your drill will do that) and drill the final enlargement that way. It keeps the drill bit from catching the wood grain and ripping things out around the edges. This advice was from another builder here, but I did not note who it was. I use it all the time.
  10. robnbill
    As I approached rigging the Connie I was not sure how I would like it. I totally had experience in wood working before I started working on the ship, so I knew I enjoyed that type of work. Rigging was a completely new experience. One I enjoyed tremendously. It was a lot of fun. It really made the old girl look dressed up.
  11. robnbill
    One other thing I meant to mention. When I was building the Connie I was not sure what the final base was going to look like. So I built a temporary base and screwed that to the ship to use during construction. Once I finished construction I carefully unscrewed the base and moved it to the new base. You can have someone assist you by balancing the ship so you have your hands free to align everything and remount. It was actually an easy thing to do. The other side of this is it kept me from dinging up the base during the rigging process. It also allowed me time to think about what I wanted the base to look like after the ship was further along. She looks a lot different rigged. Just a thought.
  12. robnbill
    Elijah, One option I often use is the heavy emory boards from CVS. These are found in the nail section and usually are about ½ wide, 5 or 6 inches long and have a course and smooth side and heavy foam between. These are great for disposable sanding sticks. They are stiff enough to do the job, yet flexible enough to follow the curves.
  13. robnbill
    I mount my ships to their base once all the deck furniture is on and the painting has been completed. I found that once I started the rigging I needed it on the base. Granted you do need to tilt it back and forth as well as turning it around to get to the various areas, however, having a stable base on the ship is great insurance as you do move it around. Just watch the nose. I broke the Connie's bowsprit completely off and had to rebuild and-re rig it. That was just my clumsiness. I know I would have broken more if I had not had it attached to it's base.
  14. robnbill
    Julie, you might try the technique I use for finding the shape of the plank. I first mark off the hull at the frames the space I need between the planks. So if I have X number of planks at the widest part, then I also need the same number at all the other stations. This only would change if I have drop planks. The rule of thumb is a plank should only narrow to ½ it's width. If it would be smaller than that, there needs to be a drop plank. Once I know where the lines would be, I use clear scotch tape, the kind that you can write on, and tape it directly on the hull over the area I want to plank. I use a very sharp Xacto blade to trip the top of the tape so it lays tight up against the previous plank. Then I mark the tape everywhere it crosses the marks on the hull. Remove the tape and stick it to the planking material and use a french curve to create a smooth line between the marks and you have an exact template for the plank. Cut the plank out using the template and bend it according to the hull. Perform a final fitting so it lays smoothly along the previously attached planks and you are good to go. You could modify this to use on your vertical planking if that is what you decide to do.
  15. robnbill
    Happy Birthday. I am sure you already know about this but just in case you don't the Smithsonian had the Gunboat Philadelphia on display in Washington. Here is a link to their site on it. http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/gunboat-philadelphia
  16. robnbill
    Welcome back. My favorite stain is Minwax Golden Pecan. It is oil based but I prefer that. However, you really need to test it on your wood to see if you like it. You can see what it looks like on my build logs. I have used it on The USS Constitution as well at the Eagle. One other thought as you choose your stain. A couple of things I have found to be nice on my models. First, stain all your wood the same stain (other than if it is painted white, black etc). Just like a painting, it gives everything a tonal unity. I also spray a matte finish once everything is dry and before I add rigging. I just like the look.
  17. robnbill
    Also make sure the line was not treated with beeswax if you are going to use a torch.
  18. robnbill
    Hey Elijah I think you're doing a great job on your ship. Blackening metal fittings is always a personal decision, bright metals will eventually dull even if they're coated with a clear lacquer. There are several really good threads on this forum on how to blacken metals. There is a definite learning curve and I would highly recommend reading through these before making a decision. However the coppering is a slightly different story since copper turns green in saltwater. If you look online for photos of the Connie as she was pulled recently into dry dock you'll see a nice green patina. There are chemicals you can use to turn copper green quickly, or if you use wood you can do a faux finish to simulate the patina. This is what I did on my Connie per the instructions in the Mamoli kit.
  19. robnbill
    Thanks everyone. The hand surgery went well. Now I just have to be patient to let heal. I appreciate everyone's thoughts. The good news is I should have full use of the hand which I have not had for awhile. Luckily, this is my left hand and I am righty!
  20. robnbill
    To build on what Matt said in his preferred dry bending method. Unless I am bending very small items in very tight curves, I only wet the would lightly by dipping it under a faucet just prior to using the heating iron. I have even used a bit of spit if it is a very small area. This provides enough steam to penetrate the wood once the iron hits it allowing me to bend the wood and it is dry/gone within seconds. Using this method, I have not found the wood to retain enough moisture to shrink once it is on the ship. This is my go to method for planks.
  21. robnbill
    The first planks are always the hardest! It seems like you have developed a great habit in this hobby. You study the work to be done, work the the plan of attack then execute the plan! It works in this hobby as well as many other things in life. I am looking forward to seeing how you progress.
  22. robnbill
    So the largest challenge that Mamoli kits seemed to have is over the really bad English translations. I am assuming you will also be rewriting all the instructions. That is going to be quite a challenge! Congratulations on picking up the mantle. It is great that the Mamoli name will continue. Where will you be manufacturing the kits?
  23. robnbill
    All, I wanted everyone who is following my build to know the shipyard will be closed for a couple of months. I am getting work done on my hand so it depends on how quickly it mends how soon I can get back to the ship. I will of course still be watching/reading the forum, I just will have limited ability to work or type for awhile.
  24. robnbill
    I used 35' as the rough max length of a single board on my Eagle. The actual length varies a a bit since the ends would be placed over a frame center. Since your hull is solid you have flexibility with this. Just make sure to stagger butt ends. If you do some searches on plank staggering, or planking plans, you will see a number of different planking scenarios you can choose from.
  25. robnbill
    It is looking good Elijah. What I end up doing is using the Scotch Magic tape. The standard ¾" tape works great. The magic tape is not shiny and allows you to write on it with a pencil. Using the ¾ in width allows you to stick it to the hull and it take the shape of the hull. Just use as many layers as you need overlapping them as needed. Then use a pencil to copy the marks through the tape. Then I take a clean and very sharp razor and carefully cut the edge along the previous plank. Remove it and stick it to your plank. Then use the french curve to make a nice arc between the marks. After cutting it out, bend it, then fit it to the hull. Use an emory board to fine tune the shape until it fits tightly to the pervious plank. On sharp bends in the hull remember that you will need to bevel the planks to meet well. This is small and can be done with an emory board, or fine wood file. Just take your time fitting them until you are satisfied. Also, remember 1 wood plank would not run the length of the hull. Butt ends together and stager where the planks butt.

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