Cap'n Rat Fink

Ahoy Mates
 
Thank you all for coming to my planking party, “last call for planksl”
 
Mark: If I am a master, it is of listening to others like you. Thank you, your log has been very helpful.
 
Martin: not all of us can afford mink.
 
Back to the build:
 
The last plank on my hull was installed last night. I started planking on 01/10/13 and finished 05/06/13. There was a three-week interlude and I estimate it took me no less then 120 hours to plank this hull (Best guess is 150). As much as I found planking a very enjoyable experience, I am glad to be done. The last plank went in without any resistance, which was nice; the second to last took six attempts to fit.
 
As for planking the Ratt, please find below my overview/notes.
 
1) Mark the entire hull as per the planking practicum here on MSW. This work, which I called Ratt-Lines, was long, tedious, and boring as hell when I did it: I will do this with more enthusiasm next time because now I know how much work it saves. 
 
2) Double, triple and quadruple check the fillers before starting. Especially in the stern. Once you commit it takes ten times longer to correct any problems here. The planks need to run up to the stern post and counter. Not make sharp turns into them. Test, test, test, then check them two more times. While were here the battens you use to test the fairing of the bulkheads must be right. Do not proceed unless you are good here.
 
3) Spiling is a must. I fought it and in the end, this was a mistake. Yes, it is more work and the learning curve is a little steep, but once you make sense of it, it really is not that big a deal and actually easier in the long run.
 
4) Where the planks turn up in the stern requires some difficult bends and the planks need to twist. For me, this was the most difficult part of the hull to plank. The planks also taper then flare out here. Run all these planks long, combing two plank lengths into one worked best for me. This can apply to the bow too. For this reason work towards the mid section coming at it from both ends, not from stern to bow or bow to stern. Fitting planks in the middle section are the easiest and should be done last.
 
5) Unless fitting; if possible all planks should be soaked and dried “long”, cut to the correct length only just before gluing them. Cutting them short here really hurts too, so measure twice.
 
6) Just throw away the bad planks and start again. Yea it hurts when you spend an hour on one plank and it is not right, but realize that you will look at it forever if you put it on. Basswood is cheap.
 
7) I soaked all my planks and allowed them to dry on the hull. I avoided having to forced them to make a bend or twist when it came time to glue them. Fitting the planks this way was slow but it allowed me to make sure the plank was right before I glued it in. It also made gluing much easier.
 
8) Do not forget to give yourself a break. Getting aggravated because of a mistake or problem only takes away from the experience. I had to walk away a few times. Planking was a very long process for me and I chose only to enjoy it.  
 
Sorry “no Pics”
She is in the spa, getting all pretty for her reveal

Ahoy Mates
 
Thank you all for the compliments, I am very happy with the results of my first planking so far and hope my efforts prove to others that with limited skills and experience but a build log on MSW, anyone can do this.
 
Russ: Tallow it will be. It is a very “very” subtle effect and I am thinking of further highlighting it by painting the keel and adding a pop of color somewhere as you suggested in your post.
 
Augie: In order to live up to the original challenge it has to be a very light application. Unless of course I screw it up, and then it will be more like paint.
 
Michael: I would love to take credit for the scarf joints in the keel but Model Shipways did those. I just did not and by any means on purpose (I can plead complete ignorance), not sand off enough of the laser burn to achieve this, which ended up highlighting them. Even a blind squirrel gets an acorn occasionally.
 
Popeye: I did try to scarf in wood but it was beyond my abilities. Ripping them out and doing another “Redo” was out of the question. These things are to be expected and I do not make them my focus. I have found that the key to a great job has always been in the repairs and most importantly knowing when to let things go.
 
Mark: Always a pleasure to have you aboard. Thank you for the compliment. A good friend once told me “if you don’t make any mistakes I don’t want you around. If you make too many, I don’t want you around either”.  
 
Patrick: Yes I started planking in January and it is now May and I still have a bit to do. Not rushing and little concern for completion is why I think it came out the way it did. It was in no way my experience or talent but simply patience and most importantly, the help I received here.
 
Martin: I find your comment very interesting. As the Ratt was a “runner” of sorts and even though there was no standard paint scheme at the time; if I was “let’s say avoiding the authorities” looking like everyone else is not such a bad idea. Hummm I wonder ???
 
Blue: Your words are very much appreciated. I use words like “excellent” when I describe work of your caliber. The quality of your builds tells me that I have much to learn and there is much more fun ahead.
 
Back to the build:
 
I would like to document my closing technique. It will be for my benefit on future builds and I hope it is of help to others. Please feel free to comment, especially if anything I am suggesting might be to the detriment of others.
 
I start when there are three remaining strakes to be fitted. This allows me five planks to work with. The two that are mounted and three that are not. I form the longest of the three required planks and start here. I have found that even though I have the hull marked off for the plank widths, this can be deceptive and does not give me an accurate assessment of the two planks widths required compared to those already installed (Seeing them does). Using two pieces of scrap planking  the same width as my project plank, I test fit them (see pic) and all five planks are then reduced to make room for the next three. I use lengths of wood with sand paper glued to one side to very slightly reduce the width of the mounted planks on either side of the space when needed. I also reduce the width of my test pieces ( I have different ones for different bulkhead locations) along with the project piece so all five planks maintain a consistent width. What ever I think I need to take off, I take half and then recheck. This is especially true when reducing the planks already mounted. Extra care must be taken here to not sand in any curves that will create gaps between planks. Over sanding is not an option here. The key is to make very subtle changes through out all the planks. Once I feel I have the widths at each bulkhead,  I glue on this plank. I make the next two planks, one at a time and then test fit them together. Again I will use a scrap piece to physically see the width of the next plank and reduce all planks equally. The fit of these planks also needs to be very tight. So tight that I cannot fully fit them both at the same time. I apply water to the outsides of the planks with a brush and glue to the bulkheads. The water softens the planks and allows me to apply some “brute force and superstition” to get them both in at the same time. It is a little unnerving but it works. You must be fully prepared and confident before proceeding with the glue.
 
As for the Color. The pic shows how light this effect is. I am hoping to have as much control as possible over how pronounced it will be during application.
 
I first apply the Sanding sealer and then wait fifteen minutes. Next, I mix the oil paint with the oil to retard its drying time and thin it out. Then I simply apply it with a rag.  A top coat of the poly gel follows this. I will most likely apply multiple coats of the poly. I might paint the keel a solid tallow color to highlight this. Comments welcome.
 
 
PS The sanding sticks mentioned in the planking notes are pictured with the stained/washed plank

Well, the spiders have started work in earnst now.  The lower shrouds, forestay and running backstays are rigged, but not yet finally tied off, although that can be done anytime now.  Next job, I think, will be to rig the boom as I won't be able to get to the parrel once a little more rigging is done around the mast.  Then it'll be on to the ratlines - only one lower mast to do.
 
Here are some pictures of where we are now.
 
First, a few general views of the model.  I think she's finally starting to look like a real cutter with the backstays rigged!



 
The unusual arrangement of the backstays.  These are very like the backstays that Petersson shows in his book 'Rigging Period Fore and Aft Craft', but are pretty unusual for the period judging by the contemporary models that I've seen.

 
The inboard end of the backstays, showing the details as shown on the plans, which confirm the backstay arrangement as shown in the painting.

 
The very unusual lower end of the forestay.  This is shown in detail on the plan, so I have to assume that it's as rigged.  The plan shows four turns of the laniard secured by four hitches, so my stay has (you guessed it) four turns and four hitches.  I think I'm going too far!!!

 
John
 
 

Some more progress. I sanded the taper into the stem then cut out the rabbet on the stem and keel. This kit made this tricky operation easier by not only providing the rabbet and bearding lines on the stem and keel pieces, but these lines were actually scored into the wood. I then just had to deepen the scores with an X-Acto blade and cut out the material between the lines with the X-Acto chisel. I used a short Emory board to clean up the slot:
 

 

 
BTW, that narrow chisel blade came with a knife set but I have not been able to find replacements. The standard X-Acto chisel blades are much wider. If anyone knows a source for those blades, please let me know.
 
When I was happy with the rabbet on both sides, I fit and glued the molds to the false keel. I used magnets to hold false keel and the molds, and Lego blocks to make sure the molds were square to the false keel. The keel assembly is just resting on the false keel for now. As per the instructions, I also made sure the tops of the molds and the false keel were flush with the table:
 

 

 
Any suggestions or other comments will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Time for an update... been much going on in real life and in the shipyard.  Janet's healing nicely and is ahead of therapy.  She hopes to be back in the pool in about 2 weeks.  Work is still a four-letter word.
 
The gundeck is finally and completely planked.       
At least for now the planking is version MkIV there may be a MkV.  Per the picture, the yard crew is sanding and holystoning the deck. The left side is in progress.  The right awaits them and their implements of smoothness.
 
Version MkI was an attempt at planking where the planks follow the run of the hull. The planks have a curve to them.  I started by full-width at mid-ships and planned to taper at bow and stern.  After about 50% planked, I found that I needed to do some drop planks so off I went.. However, at 1/8" (approx. 3mm) wide planks, I soon realized I was making mess and ripped out the planks.
 
Which lead to MkII.  Nibbed!!!  I put in a margin plank and started nibbing.  Again, the width of the planks became an issue along with, as I found out, the French at that point time didn't use nibbing.  Yep... ripped it out.
 
The, MkIII...hooked scarfs.   Yes.!!!..  Hmm... er.. no.  Needed wider planks. Nothing in stock. Rip out the few planks installed and back to the drawing board.
 
So we come to MkIV.  I've ordered sufficient stock of silver maple in boards of sufficient dimensions to permit hook scarfs.  But decided not to wait.  Figured since about 75% of the gundeck won't be seen ("uh-oh", the crowd mummers) I'd figure out a method.  Got out the dremel and put a groove into the lower part of the waterway where it meets the beams thinking I could slide the deck planks into the groove and give the appearance of the waterway on top of the planks.   That works.
 
When the wood gets here, I'll make another executive decision on ripping it out and doing it right, or letting it go and do the forecastle and the quarterdeck "properly".   The decision will be based upon how does it look with a ship's boat, guns, etc in place.  Once the sanding is done, and I've made some cardboard cutouts to see exactly what's visable and what isn't, I'll decide.   Before I get hit with "that's not the way the real ones were done"... I know.  I'm taking similar liberties at this point much like H. Hahn.  No knees for the deck beams, etc.  His pictures show planking much like what I have done, but admittedly.. I'm no H. Hahn.
 

So... I haven't posted any progress on this thing lately, the usual litany of excuses.  I've been doing stuff on it, although not really advancing the completion of the actual build.
 
First, after blowing up the Chapelle plans to scale and going over them carefully, I realized there was a lot more I wanted to understand about the hull shape. So I made a toy:

 
This then allowed me to hack out some balsa plugs to get a feel for some of the features like the slight tumblehome toward the transom and the curved transitional sections from the counter down through the bearding line...
 
Now that I had a feel for the basic forms, I could get into some of the nuances, like the keel not being the same width along the entire run, but bulging out in a smooth curve around the centerboard trunk and getting the deck camber, as well as getting the stations, buttocks and waterlines agreeing.  I then went to some cad, first, redrawing the plans:

 
Laying them out in 3-D:
 

 
Building the hull form:
 

 
creating a "watertight" solid model:
 

 
I could then cut ribs (scale 6" 0n cntr per a scantling diagram for a friendship sloop), for printing out:
 

 
I could then start making actual wood bits, here's the rough-cut cabin section for a preliminary dry fit:
 

 
So I've actually taken some steps backward, but I'm having fun!
 

Yippe, my Smack and Dinghy arrived yesterday. Now I'll be watching even more intently to your and Dee Dee's builds/bashing. Also with Marios completed pic's I love the bashing details going on.
Funny story. We went to the auction last night and some person bought this old wall clock. When everything was over it got dropped and the glass face plate broke, you could hear everyone sigh in sadness as the sound of glass breaking filled the room. Later while leaving I saw it sticking out of the trash. So... to my wifes dismay I pulled it out and it looks like its solid mahogany, so I snagged it to salvage wood. At least it won't become land fill.
 
Keith

I have been in research and testing mode for the last three months on these.  Finally have it all nailed down.   I wont be able to start actual production for a while but I do have all of my earlier test runs....
 
I am going to bring them to my next local meeting but if there are any left over I will certainly offer them here too.  They are all the small 2mm and 3/32" blocks.  They are the only sizes I was testing regularly.  I have about 300 in each size,  singles and doubles with varying size slots and holes...some have no holes.  For example...I have about 300 single 3/32" blocks with no sheave holes.  They are slotted though.
 
After my meeting I will post what I have left.  If you guys dont mind drilling your holes I have tons of those.  I was testing to just get the shape and sheave slots correct.  I hate to throw them away.
 
Chuck

Its gonna be a while until I build up some stock....but "Chucky Blocks" are coming soon.       
 
 
Lets take  a look.   
 
Model Expo price for 3/32" single blocks 100 QTY = $20  You know what these look like 
Lloyd's price ..................................................... = $35
Jerzy's price - 2 mm .......................................... = $45
My price in boxwood will be ............................... = $27
 
Expo blocks compared to Warner's blocks below
 

 
My blocks compared to Jerzy;s (Jerzy's on the right) 2mm
 

 
And another shot of my 2mm blocks...the single blocks on the right have no finish on them yet the doubles have some wipe-on-poly.  This is an old image that doesnt show any strop groove.  I will have to take some new pics once I start up production.  These were basically my tests....I have made some adjustments (sheave slots wider slightly so the holes for rigging can be larger).
 

 
Hopefully soon.....depending on how much interest in this there is out there. 
 

Arr, gee fellas - now I'm getting embarassed - I'm just having fun!
 
B.E. - The kids love it.  One of the other model makers who I see quite a bit has exactly the same experiences with the kids.  The really interesting thing is the number of teenagers who say things like, "That's so cool."
 
John

Ahoy Mates
 
 
Aaron: Thank you very much for that compliment; which I appreciate but am not worthy of. There are too many other builds here on MSW that are far superior and deserving of a compliment such as that. If you learn anything from my log, I hope it is that anybody can do a decent job.
 
Russ: I will take that “B” If they are still using that format.
 
David: I am a chronic lurker in that forum. I find a lot of inspiration in both my build and log there. I am in the back row, my hand never goes up or my jaw down.
 
Keith: It is a mixed bag. I do enjoy planking very much but moving on is starting to develop some appeal. Maintaining the right attitude is key, MSW helps a lot, thanks for stopping by, you are always welcome.
 
Ferit: Welcome aboard. “Vrai bon voit pas d'ennemi, seul l'amour” Your Berlin build is "Excellent" BTW
 
Popeye: Where do you think the all the good potions come from.
 
Back to the build:
 
The repair was completed in the bow and looks much better. Planks now all taper more consistently. So with that in mind, I ripped off and replaced another plank in the bow (2nd plank strake 13). Where some might see this as a quest for perfection I find it easier to “redo” then “regret”. Ripping them off is just so much easier.
 
I am moving very slowly, (“OK” slower then normally) in the stern, as I try to close this area up. This has proven to be a very difficult task for me and as much as I would like to rip off some of these too, I have already dealt with them. It was here I learned that lesson. I also see, “and this would be very important” to anyone following this log that the proper fairing of the both stern and bow filler pieces (which were a struggle for me) is really important. If giving a second chance, I would have spent considerably more time here. For now, I will call my second chance “the Berlin” and move forward. The planks in the stern all need to be cut, sanded, soaked, and then dried on the hull. Then this procedure is repeated with less cutting and more sanding; sometimes two more times. I cannot maintain a consistent plank width in the stern so I am trying to transition the different widths as smoothly as I can. This is something that I feel I will only get better at with experience.  Currently I have used up all my planking material. Some planks have taken up to four attempts to fit. In the stern and bow it can be a real heartbreaker too because so much work goes into them. Model Expo supplied me with 57 strips in the kit and there are 18 strakes on each side. That means I used 21 pieces for practice so far. The Ents will be stopping by shortly for a chat about this.  I am very happy with the results so far and have ordered some additional wood from ME. Until then I will use the wider pieces I purchased and do some Spiling. I think I am finally beginning to see some light.

The BOB is finished........    At least to the degree that I wish to stop.
 
There are no anchors. (as discussed previously)
I have chosen not to add the myriad small flagpoles and paper flags.    (They can be added later if the BOB is ever in a boat parade)
My upfit does include logs, cotton bales and barrels.  No people since the n-scale size looks goofy and there are no other available.
 
This has been a fun build and I'd like to thank all those who just looked in, or added comments or questions. It is quite an incentive to know others are watching and enjoying one's build.
 
My next MSW venture will be the Lackawanna by Bluejacket.  I chose this because it was originally used to haul anthracite coal.  My grandfather was an anthracite coal miner, working for the Colonial Coal Company at the Natalie Breaker.   This ship delivered to markets along the East Coast. 
 
Before starting the Lackawanna, I'll be starting my stagecoach on another site.  But that won't keep me from here....watching everyone elses builds!
 
I'm actually going to try a 'Sjors' and start the ship before I finish the stagecoach....we'll see how that goes.....
 
Cheers,
 
Jim
 

Main deck bracing started......

Since I'm still not able to continue, I thought I'd just add some of the in-progress pics from last year....seems a long time ago.
 
This series shows the setting of the stacks and some preliminary rigging.....
 
Jim

Ahoy Mates
 
Thanks for stopping by
 
David: I use the Cannon 40D and love it. Had an original D30 and also own a 10D
 
Eric: NP, It was posted on my original site and a big help to me
 
Russ: I’m going for it.  
 
Blue: Thanks, great post
 
Tex: Welcome aboard
 
Vern: Thank you
 
Bill: Does this mean I’ll be carving a beautiful figurehead too
 
Popeye: Welcome aboard
 
Back to the build:
 
Well I do not have any excuses. I put the plank on and right away knew it was wrong. So what do you do?  Put the next one on in hopes that it would make it go away of course “lol”
 
That is my story and I am sticking with it
 
Needless to say, they had to go. I used a 50/50 mix of 99% isopropyl alcohol and hot water. After soaking it for about two minutes, I brought in the big guns (RC heat gun). Using a paintbrush, I continued painting on my mixture while heating the surface. When I could smell the glue, I started pulling of the planks. Well kind of ripping and I did damage one when using my Xacto knife seems like a good idea. The knife was a bad idea and was in the end, not needed. Because the first plank in the strake was almost completely glued to the filler, there was some reservation but after some heat, it came right off. Back to Spiling
 
Pics show before, during, the repair (it will look better with a plank on top of it) and after
 
The stern is almost closed. pics soon

Its me again Mario,
 
After posting about the carpenters chest I read Blighs log. I figured it would be 84 pages of BORING, but it was quite interesting. Thats was one disciplined man and an amazing navigator.
 
Oh one other thing. You stated that you used magic water for the bounty launch. What did you use on the Dinghy? on that diorama the water looks transparent. I'm still amazed at that tool chest, its interesting how the carpenters chest actually saves them as its the only water tight place to store the bread.

Hey Aldo,
     Yes they do effect the bonding of 2 pieces of wood. It's best to glue where you can before you add any type of finish(even wood stain) IMO. Where you can't , finish it then just sand where the 2 pieces of wood meet and you should get a very good bond. Hope this helps buddy.
 
take care

This past weekend I worked on the floor timbers as well as the cross chocks and first futtocks. I laid out the cross chocks in such a way that I could get the most work done with a minimum of set up changes, primarily on the mill. The following photo shows how I laid out the cross chocks to be cut. Once I rubber cemented the templates to the billet I made one long cut along the bottom and when I got to 5F-CC I cut this piece off.
 
Now I had a narrow strip of wood with the 6 cross chocks in it. The next step was to cut up into the rabbet in the center of each chock. I did this on the scroll saw and made a number of cuts into each rabbet so what I ended up with was a number of very thin fingers sticking up – the look was that of a very tiny feather board.
 
You will also notice 2 red arrows pointing to chock 1F-CC, I’ll explain those with the next photo.
 

04-16-13a
 
In this next photo (04-16-13b) I’m milling the rabbets. I kept all of the chocks connected for this step as  it’s easier to position it in the vice. To make my cuts more precise before I put the strip in the vice I used a #11 X-Acto blade to cut the paper template exactly on the lines that define the rabbet. You can see that here where I marked the cut lines in red. By cutting away the paper template I eliminated the fuzz that often appears when mill through the paper to get to the final line. With the template out of the way I was able to mill the rabbet with very tight tolerances.
 
In the first photo I had 2 red arrows. These point to the top shoulder of each chock. When I put the long strip in the vice for milling I used these two points to accurately set up a level line for milling for each individual chock. With the work now square in all directions (I used a dial indicator to make sure) I milled the rabbets. You can see at the right side of this photo a completed rabbet, the middle is in the process of being milled and the one on the left is next.
 

04-16-13b
 
After milling all of the rabbets I test fit them to the keel to make sure the depth was correct and also that the center of the chock fell exactly over the centerline of the keel.
 
You’ll notice that I left a lot of meat at the top of the chock and also the sides and that I didn’t cut the angled parts yet. I did that later.
 

04-16-13c
 
The next task was to cut the first futtocks. Using the labeling system I talked about earlier I marked up all the futtock templates, cut them from the frame diagrams and rubber cemented them to the billets. Layout was done to conserve wood and also minimize the cutting needed. In a number of cases I was able to place the templates close enough together where a single cut served as the bottom cut on one piece as well as the top cut on the one below it.
 

04-16-13d
 
Here are the floor timbers. They were cut out using the same process as I used for the first futtocks. You can see that I again cut tiny slots where the rabbet will be milled.
 

04-16-13e
 
I milled the scarph joints in two steps because the two faces do not meet at a 90° angle. Using my X-Acto knife I again cut right on the line for shoulder and face of the scarph joint as indicated on the template. Removing the paper from the area to be milled really made the machining process must easier. The first cut was to face “A”. When I put the piece in the vice I used the very sharp line where the paper was cut as a guide to locate the piece in the vice. The red line in the photo was positioned so that it was parallel to the top surface of the vice. After milling face “A” I repositioned the piece in the vice to mill surface “B”. In this photo you can see how the sharp line left were the paper was cut makes it very easy to position the piece in the vice.
 

04-16-13f
 
First futtocks cut, sanded and scarphs milled. The rabbets are milled in the cross chocks.
 

04-16-13g
 
Next I cut pieces of wood to simulate the keel and rubber cemented them to the frame drawing. The cutout you see was so that when I glued the cross chocks to the futtocks with wood glue, the glue would not stick to the template. After the glue has set I rubber cemented each of the futtocks to the frame template. I made very fine adjustments to the surfaces where the futtocks meet the keel to ensure the surfaces mated perfectly.
 

04-16-13h
 
Somehow I did not get photos of the chocks glued to the futtocks. With the substitute keel in place and the futtocks butted up against it and glued to the template I fitted the cross chocks. First I sanded the sides to within a whisker of the vertical lines on the sides. I left more meat on the angled sections then I test fit the chock. I kept making very minor adjustments to the sides until the chock sides would fit into the gap. Next I sanded the angled sides, again making very minor reductions until the chock just fit. Once the chock was correct in all respects (except for the excess wood I left on top) I removed the keel substitute and glued the cross chock in place. I removed the substitute keel so the carpenter’s glue would not accidently glue the substitute keel to the chock or futtocks. After allowing the wood glue to dry I peeled the paper template from the assembled futtock. I took each completed floor timber or futtock and on the top of the rabbet wrote the frame number and an arrow pointing forward. With this marking made I removed the paper templates that were used to fabricate all the individual pieces.
 
The next two photos show the final result. Nothing is glued to the keel in these photos and very minor shimming is needed on some of the pieces, this will be done when I permanently attach everything to the keel. You’ll notice that I left a bit of wood on the tops of the cross chocks when I sanded. This will allow me to make fine adjustments to how the piece sits on the keel, if I need the entire thing to sit a little lower I can remove a very thin slice of wood from the bottom of the rabbet. Once those adjustments are made the tops will be sanded so the tops of each piece are the correct height.
 

04-16-13i
 
In this next photo some of the pieces look grossly out of shape but that is due to the photography and the pieces needing to be shimmed.
 

04-16-13j
 
At this point I’m getting ready to make a lot of treenails and once that is done I’ll drill the necessary holes. After that I’ll start on the second futtocks for the floor timbers.

Hum, figure for sure that some of you turned your own cannons but guess not. O well thanks anyway. Gary

WELL HERE IT IS ALL DONE. I HOPE THIS RE-DUE OF MY BUILD LOG FROM 1.0 WILL HELP ANYONE DECIDING THE BUILD A WORK BOAT OF THE cHESAPEAKE BAY AREA.
 
  MIDWEST MAKES A FINE MODEL OF THIS LITTLE BOAT, BUT NOWHERE NEAR AS DETAILED. BY i TOOK THEIR SCALE OF 5/8'S WHICH WORKOUT VERY NICE, WHICH PRESENTED A MODEL OF 16.5 INCHES IN LENGTH. A VERY NICE DISPLAY SIZE FOR MY HOME.
 
I COMPLETED THIS MODEL ON NOV. 23, 2012.........
 
IT'S A DONE DEAL.......FINAL PHOTOS IN THE COMPLETE FORUM HOPEFULLY SOMETIME TONIGHT....
 

WELL HERE IT IS ALL DONE. I HOPE THIS RE-DUE OF MY BUILD LOG FROM 1.0 WILL HELP ANYONE DECIDING THE BUILD A WORK BOAT OF THE cHESAPEAKE BAY AREA.
 
  MIDWEST MAKES A FINE MODEL OF THIS LITTLE BOAT, BUT NOWHERE NEAR AS DETAILED. BY i TOOK THEIR SCALE OF 5/8'S WHICH WORKOUT VERY NICE, WHICH PRESENTED A MODEL OF 16.5 INCHES IN LENGTH. A VERY NICE DISPLAY SIZE FOR MY HOME.
 
I COMPLETED THIS MODEL ON NOV. 23, 2012.........
 
IT'S A DONE DEAL.......FINAL PHOTOS IN THE COMPLETE FORUM HOPEFULLY SOMETIME TONIGHT....
 

WELL HERE IT IS ALL DONE. I HOPE THIS RE-DUE OF MY BUILD LOG FROM 1.0 WILL HELP ANYONE DECIDING THE BUILD A WORK BOAT OF THE cHESAPEAKE BAY AREA.
 
  MIDWEST MAKES A FINE MODEL OF THIS LITTLE BOAT, BUT NOWHERE NEAR AS DETAILED. BY i TOOK THEIR SCALE OF 5/8'S WHICH WORKOUT VERY NICE, WHICH PRESENTED A MODEL OF 16.5 INCHES IN LENGTH. A VERY NICE DISPLAY SIZE FOR MY HOME.
 
I COMPLETED THIS MODEL ON NOV. 23, 2012.........
 
IT'S A DONE DEAL.......FINAL PHOTOS IN THE COMPLETE FORUM HOPEFULLY SOMETIME TONIGHT....
 

Thanks Russ for your kind remarks!
 
 
 
 
Hi Bob,
    Nope i did not make any grommets. My little trick was a modeling size awl and a little graphite on the end pushed thru the hole. then a touch of CA so it would not rub off. It gave it an appearence of a grommet.
 
Hi David,
    Thanks for kind words. Yes on these little boats they do. I used as you can see Chapelle's book on this as one reference.
 
The other was an actual Maryland Skiff write here. They show 2 options. One of their rudders was even bigger then the one I show...
 
http://s247.photobucket.com/user/lakeeriesailor/library/Maryland%20Crabbing%20Skiff/?page=1#/user/lakeeriesailor/library/Maryland%20Crabbing%20Skiff?page=1&_suid=1365533295890015137427744168996
 
Now you got me talking here David. I have been toying with the idea of taking this real nice display board I have here at home and display several tiller n rudder assemplies from the Chesapeake Bay area. You know just the portion of these workboats. It's the tiller n rudders that really initially attracked me to these workboats in the first place.
 
   Man David if you google some you can find some really wild tiller n rudder assemplies that i think are way cool. So thats where the idea of me doing someting like that. I have plenty of scrap wood to do this and would make for a very interesting conversation piece at home.
 
 When I do get my modeling room re-modeled hoefuly in about a month I already have plans on the Galilee Boat, a C.B. bugeye, and a Smith Island Crabbing Skiff(known in that area as a CRAB SCRAPING BOAT.
 
OK I HAVE TALK TOO MUCH NOW BFN
 
MARIO

after all this was finished and allowed to dry,  the doors were assembled onto the traps.
 


 
the adjustment was made to the sorting table......it looks a bit better.
 

 
the trap near the crane was cemented in place first..........
 

 
the other lobster is on the sorting table........
 

 
I failed to get any pictures of the rope tying and such,  but here are the finished pictures of the rest of the traps.  they are all cemented in place.
 



 
this ends the saga of the traps........a few more props,  and this boat will be finished.   I can then do the Phylly C,  which will require a lot less to finish that one off.   Enjoy!!!
 

I did make a small alteration to the weathering on the sort table......you might see it in later pictures.   I did the rest of the painting and assembly on the front doors for the traps.
 

 
I put a few buoys under the sheer........then I began to add the colors to the front doors.
 



 
the eye bolts were added to the traps......they then bacame part of the paint process......they need to look just as weathered as the traps.  the painting continued........
 


 
the weathering was done to the winch and the backside of the crane.
 

 
the painting continued......
 


 
I had a look at what out atlantic lobsters look like........they were given a base coat of dark flat green.
 

 
more painting continued.......
 

 
I knew it was missing something!!!!!!  green!
 

 
then I added the vegitation and some starfish that I've had tucked away.   these starfish have been in my possession since the 80's....when my oldest son was little.  we used to go to Hampton beach during the summers,  and look for these little guys in the rocks at low tide.   ahhhhhh,  memories!
 

 
this little guy was another creature we caught.......I believe it is a prawn,  but I'm not sure.   this seems to be as good a place as any for him.......before he's reduced to powder.
 

 
the ropes were made for the traps and set on them to take on their shape as they dry
 

 
....and then,  after many color layerings,   are the lobsters