Cap'n Rat Fink

Thanks Guys for your kind remarks...
 
 
Hello All,

trying to recoup from knee surgery and the long recovery ahead. So to take my mind off of the pain I decided to try to get back to my model.
So before I start framing the quarter deck I added the Wales to strengthen the hull frames. I followed hahns advice. The Wales being 3/32nds of an inch thick I ripped two strips of ebony and one of cherry. I laminated all 3 together with regular white glue and clamped them to one of my drinking glass to form the curve at the bow. Bending a solid piece of ebony at 3/32nd's wood of been a bear.
I took a basswood stripe of 3/32 and clamped it to the hull after I transferred the locations measurements from the plans. The basswood was for practice and once in place I took some tape to mark the full strake. Once I was done I knew exactly where I was going to place the Wales. I added two strakes of boxwood above the Wales also.
I did this to help me verify that i placed the deck clamp in the correct loactions. because once the deck beams and ledges and the 1/16th thick deck planking was in place, my third boxwood strake wood line up perfectly. I did this because the third strake is where the scubbers reside.
I did a lot of measuring and re-measuring and transferring those measurements and re-checking again and again. Remember the jig I used from the kit had to be removed to do all this. Plus the rest of the practicum was with the hahn upside down jig. I doing this in no jig at all from here out. PLUS I AM FIRST TIMER ON POF WITH THIS MUCH DETAIL.
I did not mind because it help me from concentrating too my on my knee. I was really getting into it. I also cut out the stantions. I had to completely cut out the howes timbers and the catheads. The laser cut frames from the kit were too short. So I added a piece and pegged it to the existing frame.
My apologies with not having enough pictures to show all this, because of my hurting leg. Not in the picture taking mood. Advice blow up your knee like I did and it won't hurt so damn much! HAHAAHA!!!


















As I continue on I sure my plan comes together and my measuring is spot on or so close that I'm happy with it.

Thanks Guys for your kind remarks...
 
 
Hello All,

trying to recoup from knee surgery and the long recovery ahead. So to take my mind off of the pain I decided to try to get back to my model.
So before I start framing the quarter deck I added the Wales to strengthen the hull frames. I followed hahns advice. The Wales being 3/32nds of an inch thick I ripped two strips of ebony and one of cherry. I laminated all 3 together with regular white glue and clamped them to one of my drinking glass to form the curve at the bow. Bending a solid piece of ebony at 3/32nd's wood of been a bear.
I took a basswood stripe of 3/32 and clamped it to the hull after I transferred the locations measurements from the plans. The basswood was for practice and once in place I took some tape to mark the full strake. Once I was done I knew exactly where I was going to place the Wales. I added two strakes of boxwood above the Wales also.
I did this to help me verify that i placed the deck clamp in the correct loactions. because once the deck beams and ledges and the 1/16th thick deck planking was in place, my third boxwood strake wood line up perfectly. I did this because the third strake is where the scubbers reside.
I did a lot of measuring and re-measuring and transferring those measurements and re-checking again and again. Remember the jig I used from the kit had to be removed to do all this. Plus the rest of the practicum was with the hahn upside down jig. I doing this in no jig at all from here out. PLUS I AM FIRST TIMER ON POF WITH THIS MUCH DETAIL.
I did not mind because it help me from concentrating too my on my knee. I was really getting into it. I also cut out the stantions. I had to completely cut out the howes timbers and the catheads. The laser cut frames from the kit were too short. So I added a piece and pegged it to the existing frame.
My apologies with not having enough pictures to show all this, because of my hurting leg. Not in the picture taking mood. Advice blow up your knee like I did and it won't hurt so damn much! HAHAAHA!!!


















As I continue on I sure my plan comes together and my measuring is spot on or so close that I'm happy with it.

Thanks Guys for your kind remarks...
 
 
Hello All,

trying to recoup from knee surgery and the long recovery ahead. So to take my mind off of the pain I decided to try to get back to my model.
So before I start framing the quarter deck I added the Wales to strengthen the hull frames. I followed hahns advice. The Wales being 3/32nds of an inch thick I ripped two strips of ebony and one of cherry. I laminated all 3 together with regular white glue and clamped them to one of my drinking glass to form the curve at the bow. Bending a solid piece of ebony at 3/32nd's wood of been a bear.
I took a basswood stripe of 3/32 and clamped it to the hull after I transferred the locations measurements from the plans. The basswood was for practice and once in place I took some tape to mark the full strake. Once I was done I knew exactly where I was going to place the Wales. I added two strakes of boxwood above the Wales also.
I did this to help me verify that i placed the deck clamp in the correct loactions. because once the deck beams and ledges and the 1/16th thick deck planking was in place, my third boxwood strake wood line up perfectly. I did this because the third strake is where the scubbers reside.
I did a lot of measuring and re-measuring and transferring those measurements and re-checking again and again. Remember the jig I used from the kit had to be removed to do all this. Plus the rest of the practicum was with the hahn upside down jig. I doing this in no jig at all from here out. PLUS I AM FIRST TIMER ON POF WITH THIS MUCH DETAIL.
I did not mind because it help me from concentrating too my on my knee. I was really getting into it. I also cut out the stantions. I had to completely cut out the howes timbers and the catheads. The laser cut frames from the kit were too short. So I added a piece and pegged it to the existing frame.
My apologies with not having enough pictures to show all this, because of my hurting leg. Not in the picture taking mood. Advice blow up your knee like I did and it won't hurt so damn much! HAHAAHA!!!


















As I continue on I sure my plan comes together and my measuring is spot on or so close that I'm happy with it.

Thanks Guys for your kind remarks...
 
 
Hello All,

trying to recoup from knee surgery and the long recovery ahead. So to take my mind off of the pain I decided to try to get back to my model.
So before I start framing the quarter deck I added the Wales to strengthen the hull frames. I followed hahns advice. The Wales being 3/32nds of an inch thick I ripped two strips of ebony and one of cherry. I laminated all 3 together with regular white glue and clamped them to one of my drinking glass to form the curve at the bow. Bending a solid piece of ebony at 3/32nd's wood of been a bear.
I took a basswood stripe of 3/32 and clamped it to the hull after I transferred the locations measurements from the plans. The basswood was for practice and once in place I took some tape to mark the full strake. Once I was done I knew exactly where I was going to place the Wales. I added two strakes of boxwood above the Wales also.
I did this to help me verify that i placed the deck clamp in the correct loactions. because once the deck beams and ledges and the 1/16th thick deck planking was in place, my third boxwood strake wood line up perfectly. I did this because the third strake is where the scubbers reside.
I did a lot of measuring and re-measuring and transferring those measurements and re-checking again and again. Remember the jig I used from the kit had to be removed to do all this. Plus the rest of the practicum was with the hahn upside down jig. I doing this in no jig at all from here out. PLUS I AM FIRST TIMER ON POF WITH THIS MUCH DETAIL.
I did not mind because it help me from concentrating too my on my knee. I was really getting into it. I also cut out the stantions. I had to completely cut out the howes timbers and the catheads. The laser cut frames from the kit were too short. So I added a piece and pegged it to the existing frame.
My apologies with not having enough pictures to show all this, because of my hurting leg. Not in the picture taking mood. Advice blow up your knee like I did and it won't hurt so damn much! HAHAAHA!!!


















As I continue on I sure my plan comes together and my measuring is spot on or so close that I'm happy with it.

HELLO ALL,
BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE.

SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM.

THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION.

THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING.







 
 
THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!

The fairing of the starboard side transom went without a hitch. They look rough. But so does the rest of the hull. The final fairing will be done when I pull the model from the building jig.

I left a lot of material on the first set of transoms, being my first time doing this process I wanted to make I was good with enough material. It went well so I went ahead and removed enough material to make the fairing a bit less time consuming. The tape was there to protect the sternpost from the rough fairing.

Building this portion of the model did not seem to me to be very hard to do. Measuring and transferring those measurements from plans to material and rechecking payed off. The practicum for this part of the build was very informative.

Thanks Mark.
 
 
 
Ok just about done with the fairing I can do with the jig in place. Unlike Hahns jig which leaves a lot of spare material at the top of the frames. I can't get to the tops of the frames without removing the jig. Since after chapter 5 all instruction is with Hahns upside down jig which gives you an advantage of working the interior and exterior. So I am going to do as much of the interior as I can before I remove the model from the jig.

WELL THATS MY PLAN ANYWAY AND IT MAY CHANGE AS I GO ALONG!!!

Thanks Guys for your kind remarks...
 
 
Hello All,

trying to recoup from knee surgery and the long recovery ahead. So to take my mind off of the pain I decided to try to get back to my model.
So before I start framing the quarter deck I added the Wales to strengthen the hull frames. I followed hahns advice. The Wales being 3/32nds of an inch thick I ripped two strips of ebony and one of cherry. I laminated all 3 together with regular white glue and clamped them to one of my drinking glass to form the curve at the bow. Bending a solid piece of ebony at 3/32nd's wood of been a bear.
I took a basswood stripe of 3/32 and clamped it to the hull after I transferred the locations measurements from the plans. The basswood was for practice and once in place I took some tape to mark the full strake. Once I was done I knew exactly where I was going to place the Wales. I added two strakes of boxwood above the Wales also.
I did this to help me verify that i placed the deck clamp in the correct loactions. because once the deck beams and ledges and the 1/16th thick deck planking was in place, my third boxwood strake wood line up perfectly. I did this because the third strake is where the scubbers reside.
I did a lot of measuring and re-measuring and transferring those measurements and re-checking again and again. Remember the jig I used from the kit had to be removed to do all this. Plus the rest of the practicum was with the hahn upside down jig. I doing this in no jig at all from here out. PLUS I AM FIRST TIMER ON POF WITH THIS MUCH DETAIL.
I did not mind because it help me from concentrating too my on my knee. I was really getting into it. I also cut out the stantions. I had to completely cut out the howes timbers and the catheads. The laser cut frames from the kit were too short. So I added a piece and pegged it to the existing frame.
My apologies with not having enough pictures to show all this, because of my hurting leg. Not in the picture taking mood. Advice blow up your knee like I did and it won't hurt so damn much! HAHAAHA!!!


















As I continue on I sure my plan comes together and my measuring is spot on or so close that I'm happy with it.

Thanks Guys for your kind remarks...
 
 
Hello All,

trying to recoup from knee surgery and the long recovery ahead. So to take my mind off of the pain I decided to try to get back to my model.
So before I start framing the quarter deck I added the Wales to strengthen the hull frames. I followed hahns advice. The Wales being 3/32nds of an inch thick I ripped two strips of ebony and one of cherry. I laminated all 3 together with regular white glue and clamped them to one of my drinking glass to form the curve at the bow. Bending a solid piece of ebony at 3/32nd's wood of been a bear.
I took a basswood stripe of 3/32 and clamped it to the hull after I transferred the locations measurements from the plans. The basswood was for practice and once in place I took some tape to mark the full strake. Once I was done I knew exactly where I was going to place the Wales. I added two strakes of boxwood above the Wales also.
I did this to help me verify that i placed the deck clamp in the correct loactions. because once the deck beams and ledges and the 1/16th thick deck planking was in place, my third boxwood strake wood line up perfectly. I did this because the third strake is where the scubbers reside.
I did a lot of measuring and re-measuring and transferring those measurements and re-checking again and again. Remember the jig I used from the kit had to be removed to do all this. Plus the rest of the practicum was with the hahn upside down jig. I doing this in no jig at all from here out. PLUS I AM FIRST TIMER ON POF WITH THIS MUCH DETAIL.
I did not mind because it help me from concentrating too my on my knee. I was really getting into it. I also cut out the stantions. I had to completely cut out the howes timbers and the catheads. The laser cut frames from the kit were too short. So I added a piece and pegged it to the existing frame.
My apologies with not having enough pictures to show all this, because of my hurting leg. Not in the picture taking mood. Advice blow up your knee like I did and it won't hurt so damn much! HAHAAHA!!!


















As I continue on I sure my plan comes together and my measuring is spot on or so close that I'm happy with it.

HELLO ALL,
BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE.

SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM.

THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION.

THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING.







 
 
THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!

HELLO ALL,
BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE.

SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM.

THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION.

THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING.







 
 
THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!

HELLO ALL,
BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE.

SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM.

THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION.

THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING.







 
 
THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!

The fairing of the starboard side transom went without a hitch. They look rough. But so does the rest of the hull. The final fairing will be done when I pull the model from the building jig.

I left a lot of material on the first set of transoms, being my first time doing this process I wanted to make I was good with enough material. It went well so I went ahead and removed enough material to make the fairing a bit less time consuming. The tape was there to protect the sternpost from the rough fairing.

Building this portion of the model did not seem to me to be very hard to do. Measuring and transferring those measurements from plans to material and rechecking payed off. The practicum for this part of the build was very informative.

Nope Mark you not missing a thing. They are bigger. This is my first doing this. So I left more timber. Just did not want to screw up and have too little. The starboard I will shape them with less material as suggested in the practicum. Just covering my butt. Wood be a bear to have to remove them if not enough material.
 
Practicum suggest this shape will I will do on starboard...
Off course the wider side towards the deadwood.

And a few more pics...

Ok I am in the process of adding the other 4 transoms. I took all measurements from Hahns plans. All pieces are 1/8" in thickness including the basswood spacers. You will see pictures of the plans. To bar any issues from showing this online with all this copy rights thing going on, the pictures of the plans were taken at an angle to distort them a bit.
If anybody sees that I have an issue with my transoms please tell me because I am learning. I am following Bob's practicum. Which has been very helpful. Learning a lot here!

HELLO ALL,
BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE.

SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM.

THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION.

THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING.







 
 
THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!

HELLO ALL,
BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE.

SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM.

THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION.

THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING.







 
 
THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!

HELLO ALL,
BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE.

SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM.

THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION.

THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING.







 
 
THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!

HELLO ALL,
BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE.

SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM.

THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION.

THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING.







 
 
THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!

HELLO ALL,
BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE.

SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM.

THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION.

THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING.







 
 
THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!

HELLO ALL,
BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE.

SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM.

THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION.

THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING.







 
 
THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!

HELLO ALL,
BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE.

SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM.

THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION.

THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING.







 
 
THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!

HELLO ALL,
BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE.

SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM.

THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION.

THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING.







 
 
THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!

HELLO ALL,
BEEN WORKING ON THE MODEL HERE AND THERE. HAD TO SLOW DOWN BECAUSE I HAD A COMMITMENT TO DO ALL THE CENTER PIECES FOR A RELATIVES PENDING WEDDING. CENTER PIECES FOR 34 TABLES. FINALLY GOT IT DONE.

SO WHERE WAS I ? LEFT OFF AT THE STERN FRAMES. I WORKED THAT OUT, I ADDED THE TIMBER THAT TIES THEM ALL TOGETHER. THEN CAME THE HARDEST OF THE STERN AREA IMO. "THE AFTMOST DECK BEAM". THAT TOOK A LOT OF READING AND MEASUREMENT AFTER MEASUREMENT AND MEASURING AGAIN. THE FINAL RESULT WAS THE 2ND TIME AROUND MAKING THE BEAM.

THEN CAME THE SMALL TIMBERS THAT TIED THE LAST CANT FRAMES TO THE STERN FRAMES AND ADDING A STANTION.

THAT COMPLETED THE FRAMING OF THE HULL, AND I MADE THE DECISION TO REMOVE THE MODEL FROM THE BUILDING JIG. SO I CAN NOW DO SOME SERIOUS AND FINAL FAIRING OF THE HULL. THEN CUT OUT THE NOTCHES ON EACH FRAME. MAKE SURE THE RABBET IS CLEAN AND CLEAR FOR THE PLANKING.







 
 
THANK YOU FOR DROPPING BY!!!