JPZ66

Hi all,
 
I have found a 3d sculptor to work with and am currently running some test output on an SLA / 3d printer. Currently the test figure shown here is being done in 28mm, but can be scaled up or down a bit fairly easily. The goal in this project is to create several limes of figures in a few scales ( covering 1/60 - 1/48 range ) initially and that they be in "action" poses, not simply standing around. The figures will be prototyped with 3d printing, molded, and then cast in either resin or pewter. These will be officer and crew figures of the 18th and 19th century period.
 
- Joe

Wefalck,
 
Good suggestions. I will be looking over the prototype print in just a little while. Additional model prototypes are being run in different scales. We are looking at what happens to the detail level. I'm not a fan of bases either, so there will likely be an option of with or without bases. The base came about as these figures can be used for wargaming.
 
The other option I'm looking at, is making them available as already cast pieces, or as a downloadable file that one may print either at home or through a service.
One problem with making files available through an outfit like Shapeways for example, is that the creator gives up Intellectual Property Rights as I understand it....I'm looking into that to get the facts.
 
Some figures planned will not have a base option, as they are "in action" , i.e; sail handling on the yard, or climbing the rigging, etc.
 
I will post some photos later today of the printed prototype.
 
-Joe

Ok, so I picked up a few prints and after a quick trimmimg of supports and no further clean up....... Here is the test 28mm figure ( 32mm and 35mm coming later this week ) The detail is quite good, rather hard to see here, and perhaps I will try an ink wash to show the recesses a bit better.
 
-Joe

Wefalck,
 
Good suggestions. I will be looking over the prototype print in just a little while. Additional model prototypes are being run in different scales. We are looking at what happens to the detail level. I'm not a fan of bases either, so there will likely be an option of with or without bases. The base came about as these figures can be used for wargaming.
 
The other option I'm looking at, is making them available as already cast pieces, or as a downloadable file that one may print either at home or through a service.
One problem with making files available through an outfit like Shapeways for example, is that the creator gives up Intellectual Property Rights as I understand it....I'm looking into that to get the facts.
 
Some figures planned will not have a base option, as they are "in action" , i.e; sail handling on the yard, or climbing the rigging, etc.
 
I will post some photos later today of the printed prototype.
 
-Joe

Hi all,
 
I have found a 3d sculptor to work with and am currently running some test output on an SLA / 3d printer. Currently the test figure shown here is being done in 28mm, but can be scaled up or down a bit fairly easily. The goal in this project is to create several limes of figures in a few scales ( covering 1/60 - 1/48 range ) initially and that they be in "action" poses, not simply standing around. The figures will be prototyped with 3d printing, molded, and then cast in either resin or pewter. These will be officer and crew figures of the 18th and 19th century period.
 
- Joe

Hi all,
 
I have found a 3d sculptor to work with and am currently running some test output on an SLA / 3d printer. Currently the test figure shown here is being done in 28mm, but can be scaled up or down a bit fairly easily. The goal in this project is to create several limes of figures in a few scales ( covering 1/60 - 1/48 range ) initially and that they be in "action" poses, not simply standing around. The figures will be prototyped with 3d printing, molded, and then cast in either resin or pewter. These will be officer and crew figures of the 18th and 19th century period.
 
- Joe

Wefalck,
 
Good suggestions. I will be looking over the prototype print in just a little while. Additional model prototypes are being run in different scales. We are looking at what happens to the detail level. I'm not a fan of bases either, so there will likely be an option of with or without bases. The base came about as these figures can be used for wargaming.
 
The other option I'm looking at, is making them available as already cast pieces, or as a downloadable file that one may print either at home or through a service.
One problem with making files available through an outfit like Shapeways for example, is that the creator gives up Intellectual Property Rights as I understand it....I'm looking into that to get the facts.
 
Some figures planned will not have a base option, as they are "in action" , i.e; sail handling on the yard, or climbing the rigging, etc.
 
I will post some photos later today of the printed prototype.
 
-Joe

Hi all,
 
I have found a 3d sculptor to work with and am currently running some test output on an SLA / 3d printer. Currently the test figure shown here is being done in 28mm, but can be scaled up or down a bit fairly easily. The goal in this project is to create several limes of figures in a few scales ( covering 1/60 - 1/48 range ) initially and that they be in "action" poses, not simply standing around. The figures will be prototyped with 3d printing, molded, and then cast in either resin or pewter. These will be officer and crew figures of the 18th and 19th century period.
 
- Joe

Hi all,
 
I have found a 3d sculptor to work with and am currently running some test output on an SLA / 3d printer. Currently the test figure shown here is being done in 28mm, but can be scaled up or down a bit fairly easily. The goal in this project is to create several limes of figures in a few scales ( covering 1/60 - 1/48 range ) initially and that they be in "action" poses, not simply standing around. The figures will be prototyped with 3d printing, molded, and then cast in either resin or pewter. These will be officer and crew figures of the 18th and 19th century period.
 
- Joe

Hi all,
 
I have found a 3d sculptor to work with and am currently running some test output on an SLA / 3d printer. Currently the test figure shown here is being done in 28mm, but can be scaled up or down a bit fairly easily. The goal in this project is to create several limes of figures in a few scales ( covering 1/60 - 1/48 range ) initially and that they be in "action" poses, not simply standing around. The figures will be prototyped with 3d printing, molded, and then cast in either resin or pewter. These will be officer and crew figures of the 18th and 19th century period.
 
- Joe

Tadeusz,
 
Thank you so much for this continuing effort and wonderful posts ! All of it has been a fascinating view of ships and ship building. Very highly interesting !!
 
-Joe

I vote for bands as well, but maybe you can use a 'gun metal' shade instead of black ? Maybe reduce the stark contrast a bit.....not sure if that would be correct though.
 
Joe

I vote for bands as well, but maybe you can use a 'gun metal' shade instead of black ? Maybe reduce the stark contrast a bit.....not sure if that would be correct though.
 
Joe

I vote for bands as well, but maybe you can use a 'gun metal' shade instead of black ? Maybe reduce the stark contrast a bit.....not sure if that would be correct though.
 
Joe

I vote for bands as well, but maybe you can use a 'gun metal' shade instead of black ? Maybe reduce the stark contrast a bit.....not sure if that would be correct though.
 
Joe

The kit provides a .pdf template of the nibbing strake.  the four pieces are cut out, rubber cemented to some holly stock and then cut out with a scroll saw.  I then glued them in place.

Doc,
 
I also liked the idea of painting the bulwark insides in a dull red .  .  .
 

I hope I don't offend some builders here, but I am confused about something. Some builders will buy a very expensive kit and then throw out most of the expensive parts and supplies to replace them with scratch built parts. If they have the talent and skills to build from scratch, and they obviously do, then why not save the kit expense and just buy the plans and scratch build. I can see replacing some parts in kits, as improvements can be made here and there, but not to discard most of the kit, like lumber, metal castings, fixtures etc. By the time they are finished, there is very little of the kit left.
 
Vince P.

Welcome on bord, Antony
 
The completion of the hull of my control model in the region behind the last frames has attracted much longer than expected.
When planning the last phase of the construction I realized that the body plan of the original drawing and therefore my reconstruction at the top of the last two frames is too narrow. So back to the drawing board and the frames 19 and 20 newly constructed. The hull at frames 20 is now about 1 mm wider in the region of maximum breath than originally. With the help of several buttok lines and the new water lines I have also redesigned the transoms

I haven't add all changes on the test hull, so you can see in the pictures the not entirely harmonious course of the lines.





The first step of my little project -the reconstruction of the lines- is complete.
In between, I have asked myself several times whether the construction of the half-model was even necessary. After the problems in the reconstruction of the transoms and fashion pieces, that define the shape of the stern, have identified, the construction of the test model was more than worth. I am happy to have the mistakes now and not found during the construction of the POF model.

In the next few weeks I'll construct keel, frames and all other components that are needed to build the hull. In autumn I like to start the construction of the POF model. Until then, one last picture which shows the side view of the test hull.
 

The transoms can not be derived directly from my reconstruction of the body plan.In the half breath plan of the orioginal drawing the form of each timber is indeed located, but does not fit properly on the corrected design. Before starting for the next step I have taken these lines and adjust them so that they match up with my design and also with the position of transoms in Sheer plan.
Subsequently the transoms were transferred to 3mm plywood, sawn and glued on the control model. I 've filles the gaps as usual with poplar plywood. After sanding the area looks like in the following pictures:
 

 

 

 
 

You might wish to try photo-etched parts. Bolt heads and nuts come in a huge range of sizes. Some are available in nickle, stainless or brass. I quick search for scale model photo etched parts will turn up plenty for you to check out. Quite popular with car, railroad and armor modelers ! You can find them in round, square, hex and most sets include washers....
 
Joe

Hello again,
Another update...the final one as the Picket is complete. After I got he spar mounted and rigged I was looking at the boat and it looked to me like something was missing...so I decided to make some detail items that would have been aboard.
 
With the open coal bins the most natural would be a shovel, so I cut a small piece of card and soaked it in diluted white glue it was then pressed on the end of a round toothpick to get the shaping started, when it dried it was moistened and folded to the final shape.
 
I also thought it would be appropriate to add a few thing the howitzer would require...so I scratched a worm and sponge/rammer. These started as sections of round toothpick glued up to the correct length and then adding the details, the sponge is a small piece of natural sponge trimmed and glued on, the ram end is wraps of tape. The worm is a spiral of wire. All were then painted and weathered.
 
I also added an ensign staff and flag, the flag was found on line and printed it was shaped while the glue was still wet, so it looks like there is a breeze.
 
The rigging was done per the plans with the exception of the torpedo staff forward mounting ring, this I ran up through the block on the hoisting mast, I saw this configuration in an on-line article about spar torpedoes.
 
Well that's about it, I want to thank you all for following along and lending support and encouragement. Thanks as well for all the kind comments and likes, much appreciated. Pics follow:
A few tools for the crew



loaded aboard

Gun details

some rigging


bow shots

views amidships


 
 

You might wish to try photo-etched parts. Bolt heads and nuts come in a huge range of sizes. Some are available in nickle, stainless or brass. I quick search for scale model photo etched parts will turn up plenty for you to check out. Quite popular with car, railroad and armor modelers ! You can find them in round, square, hex and most sets include washers....
 
Joe

You might wish to try photo-etched parts. Bolt heads and nuts come in a huge range of sizes. Some are available in nickle, stainless or brass. I quick search for scale model photo etched parts will turn up plenty for you to check out. Quite popular with car, railroad and armor modelers ! You can find them in round, square, hex and most sets include washers....
 
Joe

You might wish to try photo-etched parts. Bolt heads and nuts come in a huge range of sizes. Some are available in nickle, stainless or brass. I quick search for scale model photo etched parts will turn up plenty for you to check out. Quite popular with car, railroad and armor modelers ! You can find them in round, square, hex and most sets include washers....
 
Joe