Mark Pearse
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Everything posted by Mark Pearse
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Hi Steven, if you're concerned that a stop mechanism might not have been developed at that point in time, I don't think it's a technical problem not to have one. You use the windlass to take up the line & then tie off to a stout fixing point, the windlass is not used for holding load under anchor. Boats with heavy anchors usually have a way to manoeuvre the anchor on board once they are close, simply because it's easier (& less damage) than dragging the anchor up against the hull - such as a rope tackle & hook led from the mast. -
Hi Keith I'd also guess the extra holes are bilge pumps, it wouldn't be unusual to have more than one outlet as connecting the outlet hoses from multiple pumps into one hose is commonly done - but has risks & lowers the pump efficiency. Option could be some sort of stern well that's in the deck....?
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Hi Vaddoc the details are coming together very nicely. They are setting off the hull shape well.
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the hull really looks lovely Keith. At this point in the process, what are you using to sand back between coats?
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thanks Frank, my question was more what they do with the lazyjack lines once the jib is hoisted & they are sailing. But I should have looked back at the photos - the very first photo in this log & you can see them with the jib up. It looks that the spectacle iron (a good name!) is part lowered & the lines just hang there. I've never seen this before, very interesting.
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Hi Frank, that's an interesting system. Do you know what they do with the lazy jack lines once they've hoisted the jib & are underway?
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Hello Helmut that must have been a difficult decision to rebuild, but looking good now. "Long" is no exaggeration, that's a very slim hull form. I have a couple of questions on the boats: what they were used for; & what is the hull the length - it appears to be around 11m from the drawing...? thanks Mark
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Hi Dick I hadn't seen this build till now - that's beautiful work & a fascinating subject for a model. Was the 14C period a time when Venice was a regional sea power? Mark
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Hi Keith lot's of lively discussions, very interesting. At the risk of adding another duck to the swamp, on the paint/varnish question I've noticed that a darker colour changes the apparent proportion of a hull. A longer elegant hull painted black will look shorter & slightly boxier. I don't know if this still applies at scale. all the best from from the galleries,
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Hi Steven, I seem to recall that you said that these craft used the sails downwind & not upwind...? If that is what they did, I'd assume the lateen yard will lie more often across the hull than in line. Is the main issue then: which calcet direction gives the best lead for the halyard? Perhaps a mock-up might help resolve this. On the question of the support & balance of the yard & sails, if the issue is controlling the yard angle when hoisting or lowering, then I would be pretty sure you can control the angle of the yard by the sail itself, a hefty person or ten holding the right part of the sail & they would have quite good control of the yard as it raises or lowers. Under sail there would be control lines to adjust the angle - in the sepia coloured photo you included there appears to be two ropes tied to the yard, one forward of the mast & one aft. The forward one is tight & the aft one is loose, it looks like they are being used to control or support the yard angle when sailing... such a long & slender spar too. I hope these comments help,
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sorry - I said planks when I meant ribs
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Hi Michael I'm not an expert so I asked one: Ian Smith is a retired shipwright (see http://www.openboat.com.au/index.html) & he said that the Houdini method was not used - the ribs will lie as they want to & you will have trouble in getting any twist in them. However he did note that the Herreshoff's were an exception, for their small production boats they had matched moulds for the ribs so that all of them were perpendicular to the keel.
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Thanks Carl, there is definitely truth in what you say, there's many light boats with small sail area that are very fast. Short fat boats need more powerful sails to overcome the resistance, & the fat shape is to carry the loads. Yes it's a contradiction, or maybe a balancing act.
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Because it relates to this build I'll continue the discussion. What is interesting is that although Cliff Gale didn't design his boats as racers, they are quite competitive & sometimes even fast against modern cruising & cruiser/racer boats - bearing in mind that our boat is a design that was quite old fashioned even in 1933. An example of how he favoured general characteristics over performance was with ballast - he believed that some of the ballast should be sitting on the keel just below the floorboards & as close to the back of the mast as possible, so not far below waterline. He thought the motion of the boat at anchor was important & improved this way. However if you wanted to make them faster you'd almost certainly increase the ballast ratio, by putting on more lead, move the existing lead lower down, or both.
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It shows what a skilled designer he was to design a boat that is good in light winds & smooth water, and then in gale force winds & difficult chop.
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thanks all. I agree Bedford, we should be careful about boating weather, especially light open boats. Hi John, yes that's my daughter, but the light is the one on the north side of Shark Is, not Bradleys, we are heading into Rose Bay.
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Thanks Bedford, Cliff Gale was a gifted designer as well as having an eye for beautiful lines. Not only do that they look good, they sail well. In the last weeks our boat Cherub - a 24' Cliff Gale design from the 1930s - was in two races in which showed her remarkable sailing qualities in very different ways: in 5 knots Cherub was the only boat from 2 of the 3 mixed divisions to complete the course (also the oldest boat & one of only two boats under 25'); today she was also the only boat in her division to finish, with the last part in gusty 30 to 40+ knots. Some photos below from both, showing the changing faces of our lovely harbour (which I know you experience with the Heritage Fleet). (from the deck of anther boat)
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HI Michael this will be nice, there's something special about seeing the whole hull shape so soon.
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The mainsail track cars are made & epoxied into place, they are basically a piece of brass flat bar with a loop & sit in a C section on the mast aft face - the C section is the track. The mainsail foot & the gaff are laced. The luff with have lacing ties from the cars to the small luff cringles on the sail. A small dot of CA glue was used at each point where the lacing thread crosses itself. Also, she now has a name.....my mother's name. The SASC A28 N is the registration number, local regs are that you can choose you own mix of letters & numbers - but it has to end in 'N'. SASC is the Sydney Amateur Sailing Club & A28 the sail number. The jib track cars are underway - 3 strips of brass flat bar, the top one is the same with as the track (so hopefully it will fit on the tracks....). The will have a U bolt with a standup block, plus a little button to replicate the thing you adjust the position with.
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Hi Frank That's a good result. But just curious, did you try furling the jib in the actual shape using wet Silkspan? thanks
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thanks everyone, Hi Keith, funny you should ask, as it happens I do have a couple of ideas... Probably it will be a half model of Karoo, a 21' Cliff Gale design from the 1920s. Karoo was an open boat with lug sloop rig. The photo below is a current boat that uses her lines, from 1988 in a fresh breeze. The model would be for the model wall at our sailing club. The other idea is a radio controlled "Balmain bug". Until the 1950s model yacht racing was popular in Sydney, the main classes 6", 1' & 2' - hull length being the only limitation. You're probably wondering how a 6" model yacht could sail in a choppy harbour, but they did & were chased by two blokes in a dinghy who would tack the boat or set the spinnaker for downwind etc. I don't think of them as scale models, really they are miniature racing skiffs. Like many of the bigger classes here, the design tried to balance as much sail area as you dared with enough ballast to keep it all up & enough hull buoyancy to keep it all afloat. Below is a 2 footer - probably not what you were expecting from a 2 foot model yacht - compare the ballast to the size of his foot & you'll get an idea of the loads. The rig of a 2 footer is large, probably an 8 or 9' mast, a 2.5' fin & the bowsprit appears to be about 6', so I'd probably try a 1 footer, & an RC motor might not cope with the 2' rig. There's a few things to work out, but it's fun to think about the possibility....
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HI Vaddoc no problem, my assumptions about the rig this boat carries were wrong, I wasn't expecting her to be able to set a flying jib. I assumed the topsail carried both spars with it, in which case you don't have the top section of the mast above where the backstays meet the mast. You will be happily busy with that rig. Apologies if my comments were confusing.
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