Mark Pearse
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Twelve inch to the foot dinghy
Mark Pearse replied to Bedford's topic in Non-ship/categorised builds
Hi Steve That's very neat work. I've been rowing quite bit myself in the last couple of weeks, it being still permissible & fun. How high is the mirror compared to eye height? -
Another possibility for the cleats: They look to be several metres aft of where the main running backstays meet the deck. It's possibly connected with that tackle, & the loads would be sometimes be appropriately massive for that cleat. This is a racing yacht & these runners would be the main way of keeping the forestays from sagging away, many tons of load. Keeping that forestay up in strong breezes would be critical to windward performance, & history shows they weren't shy about racing in a breeze. Possibly they are only used in heavy conditions, & it's interesting to see that in the first two photos of this log, that there's a second backstay tackle in one photo that doesn't seem to be in the other - so they did change the running rigging to suit.
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Agree with John, they are clearly meant to take some serious loads. Maybe see if anything aligns with the plate, could give a clue. If they seem to point outside the boat they might be to take some running rigging - maybe a block for the spinnaker brace...
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Hi Vaddoc Good progress. On the bobstay line, there will be photos online of English types that have this setup, should be some good references there. It seems to be an area of rigging of this yacht that is definitely English as opposed to American, or Australian.
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Hi Maury for soldering multiple pieces near to each other, I found that after doing one solder I took some narrow strips of fabric soaked in water & then wrapped around the first solder, did the next one etc. You might already have tried that, but it worked for me. The spars work is looking very nice.
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Hi Dick That's an astonishing ship, I hadn't appreciated just how dramatic the standing rigging would be. Do you have an idea how heavy the rigging blocks would be?
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Bravo Vaddoc, going nicely. Your comment on not being sure if you have enough blocks - a suggestion is to draw up the running rigging; it will also show how many blocks need a becket, etc. Mark
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Hi Steven Is the oar shape speculative? I'm just interested, as I row for pleasure & am amazed by how relatively small differences in oars make a lot of difference to the person. thanks
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Delightful. I really like the way you've done this model.
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Hi Geert A very interesting hull, a lot of volume for a short boat ... & yet the lines are sweet. Is there a risk in the hull being distorted by unequal loads from the planking?
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Hi Keith That's great, it's surprising how adaptable those tools are. To understand the use of the actual winch: if you were lowering the anchor, would someone be at the winch & using the brake lever manually to control the descent? thanks
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Hi Keith I agree with Eberhard, they look like sail ties at the ready for headsails.
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Hello Geert I have just seen this log - what a beauty, & the way you have built the model is just great. Especially well done on the sails. Is that the sort of anchor commonly used there? Mark PS: The gaff bridle discussion was very interesting. I think the arrangement as drawn would put too much compression on the spar. Gaff spars can bend under load & some of that is fine, but if you have some bend plus compression it would break much more easily than if the compression wasn't there. I think the change suggested would solve it.
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Very interesting, the weight isn't massive but the 2.2m length would help. The text claims the rectangular hole is for the rope - that doesn't make sense because of the precise rectangularity of the hole looks to be for a specific fitting such as the anchor flukes part. The small square hole just above the rectangular one, & perpendicular, could then be the cross piece (name?) that makes sure the fluke is pointing down.
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Hi Pete I've just come across you build, well done she looks great. The woodwork is nice & sharp. On the sails - why not try unshaped sails first? They will certainly work, & with that very soft fabric you're using there would be something like camber under wind pressure, & the leech will also open as the boom is so light it will lift. Doing panels to achieve camber is probably not going to be a faster sail unless the resulting shape is nice & smooth. I might not be following 100%, but if you do give it a go, the camber shouldn't be located at the leech (unless you're talking about roach) - if you are looking straight down from above there should be a gentle curve with the shape fairly even front to back, no emphasis on the front (luff) or back (leech). You can always adjust the emphasis of the camber by changing the tension in different parts of the sail. Is there dacron available in a weight suitable for model making ?
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Hi Steve A very good result, that detail sets it off very nicely. Mark
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It doesn't have to be a stringer, & you already seem to have one in that area so it's hard to see a second one in the same close vicinity that doesn't really have a structural purpose. If we the assume the builders were careful with their prized long lengths of clear gained structural timber - & if the aim is just to cover a gap - it could be done with shorter & lower quality pieces of timber as an extension of the deck itself, either infilled & so flush with the deck, or overlapped & sitting on the deck.
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Hi Michael, Bravo. I've never seen a square rose with an oval handle but the square looks good with the panelled door. I also admit to preferring unaligned screws, as you've done.
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