Mark Pearse
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Everything posted by Mark Pearse
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that's remarkably substantial piece of metalwork, & it's a pleasure to see the steps you took to reproduce it -
a nice looking gaff main for a light boat - & a non-overlapping jib as well?
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Hi Steve the rudder metalwork is beautiful to scale. The rope does look different but also it just looks like a cheaper rope, & all boats have them somewhere - so it's kind of authentic also.
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Hi Keith the decks are looking superb, & in good scale as well. A question: do you think that glueing the rods in is stronger than solder, or is there another reason? thanks
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Hi Michael that's very clever work with the table saw, thanks - and and very nice result. I don't know the timber, but it does look lovely. For the thicknesser, do you replace the aluminium guides on the sides to adjust the thickness? all the best
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Nice job on the anchors, & amazing how similar it is to the typical modern fisherman's anchor. Just to add to the anchor chain discussion: there is an alternative way of getting an actor to bite, by using a decent sized weight with an eye on the top. The anchor line goes through the eye & a second lighter line is tied off to the eye, & you lower it down along the anchor line. Even if you have a chain, in difficult conditions it will dramatically increase the holding power of an anchor. I wonder if they kept one on board? If you had no chain then you would require something like this or the anchor just won't work. One advantage is its simplicity, & chain was probably a relatively expensive commodity.
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Hi Vaddoc Nice to see the project back. My eyes are not good for close up work, but an optivisor has been great.
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Hi Keith Your machinery skills are a pleasure to follow. On the repair using paint question, wouldn't the deck darken over time but the paint stay the same?
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HI Steve the work is very delicate. The way you've used two contrasting colours of the timber also looks superb. I like the idea of the stand, but have you tried it upside down? To me it needs a solid base & delicacy where it meets the hull - I like the concept but I think that design unfortunately obscures too much of the hull. The idea of making look like a 1:8 cradle is clever, & I encourage you to not discard the entire concept.
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a great result Steve, very delicate
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Hi Steve, lovely work, & it's great how a model is every bit as fascinating as a full sized boat. I'll be following along with great interest for the rest of the ride. PS If you are interested, the Balmain Regatta Sunday week has a waterman's boat event, I'm entering & launching across the bay at Woolwich....be in touch if you are interested, we could meet & row across together all the best, Mark
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Hi John it's really nice to watch how the feel of the boat increases with each addition.
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Hi Dick mysterious - what do you interpret the parts to be from the drawings?
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- nave tonda
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Hi Vaddoc nice work all around, especially the leatherwork details. When you say 'near the gooseneck', I'm assuming that you mean on the boom near the gooseneck. In which case, be aware that you wouldn't usually put belaying pins - or another sort of cleat - on something that moves unless the rope that's going to be tied off there is moving with it. So a sail halyard that goes to the top of the mast can go to a pin or cleat on the mast. You can use a cleat near the gooseneck on the boom, but only for a line that does something on the boom (sail outhaul for example). all the best
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Hi GL that's beautiful, & it really looks like the boat. (It's a photo of our boat Cherub, which is 24' - 4' shorter than the model design, but with the same beam dimension & cockpit size). Very well done & I hope this one gives you encouragement to do some more marine paintings. I'm very glad you liked this photo enough to paint it. Mark
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Hi Steven speaking as a practical sailor & not a marine archaeologist, I'd say that the reason for the three hole is clear - but I tend to leap to conclusions... One side of that block has 5 or 6 ropes, & say the capacity is 100kg each, the other side of the block needs to be able to take the total load of 500 or 600kg. The point of the block is leverage, 5 or 6 to 1 in this case, but the effect is to increase load. The other side of the block must be able to equalise the load, so it's the standing rigging multiplied to be able to withstand the load of the block - I reckon it's a rope wound around several times to take the load. If my idea is correct, it would be instead of the lateral hole & rope you put in.
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Hi Vaddoc, a good result, very nice. My experience is that CA can be brittle if there's not much surface area for it to work with.
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thank you all. Steve, the Maluka to Hobart article here will interest you: https://sasc.com.au/wp-content/uploads/SASC0217W.pdf
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