ChrisLBren

Im really curious about the paper patterns - how do you not get glue bubbles when applying and also would it be possible to put a finish over them ( dont think that would work due to printer ink)

Gorgeous Chuck - I need to get back to work on mine !

Ok some better pictures now that the starboard side is finished.   
When I finish the molding and friezes on the port side chapter 3 will be completed.   Chapter 4 will entail finishing the stern outboard to a certain point.  The carvings and moldings etc...along with the rudder.
 
Once that is all done I will start on the interior platforms and fittings.   That will be chapter 5.

 
Now I have decided to go in a decidedly different direction with the friezes.  I was unexpectedly inspired while down in Annapolis.   Seeing the Rogers collection always does that for me.  I was inspired by a few contemporary models for ships of the same size which actually had very dark blue or almost a black/brown field for the friezes.  Yes I still like the tradition friezes you always see on models of the period which have a lighter blue field.  But I have done that so many times it has grown tired for me.

 
So I developed yet another frieze choice with a darker field.  This was frieze on my model is actually developed from photos I took of the contemporary model in the Rogers collection...brought into photoshop and repurposed for Speedwell. Placing them both on the model...the more traditional blue and this newer inspired design, I decided to go out on a limb and take a chance on it.   So far I like it very much.
 

 
Both colors and choices will be made available when I finally release this model as kit.
 
I will try and release the first installments once I get chapter 4 completed.  I hope to anyway.  That is my plan.
 

 

start of work on the stern panel

One last Speedwell photo to finish this log. It is now encased in a display designed and built by my son whose hobby is woodworking. He built it out of Sapele mahogany and I think it compliments the model beautifully.
Question - can anyone suggest a tasteful, non-intrusive method to light up the model? Whatever it is will need to rest on the acrylic top.
 

The port side of the false deck has been fitted. This consists of rectangular floors fitted between rebated cross-beams. Each floor has a central recessed lifting ring. This false deck was meant to accommodate additional passengers such as scientists, artists etc in what was a cargo carrying vessel. The deck is meant to be temporary and would be removed after the completion of the voyage. The pictures are self explanatory.
 



Cheers
Dick

Hello everyone, another update on Le Rochefort. After the small break in the summer, I'm more drawn to the workshop again in the evenings. I have started with the cross beams for the cargo area and the nails for the interior floorboards. I'm still waiting for my new tools to finish the rest of the nails.
 




 

Proof of life and work post.    Still re-working the hull planking but not ready to show anything.   However, I did take the last week or two to build the ship's boat.  I re-used the plans and laser cutting drawings from Licorne as they're the same.   So here's photos of the boat.  This little beasty is only abot 6" (15 cm) long. At some point I'll decide if I want more boats or just let it go at the one.
 
Back to working on making myself happy with the hull planking.  
 

Look forward to it Mic !  Welcome back

Look forward to it Mic !  Welcome back

Look forward to it Mic !  Welcome back

Hi Marc and thanks for you comments - You are right in some ways that everything is on show and it needs to be accurate but as I have discovered there are loads of ways to hide small errors - thank goodness 🤣
 
Sorry for the lack of updates I'm just really busy elsewhere at the moment so I fit in the ship building as best I can.
 
So onto the binding strakes and I soon realised that there is an easy and hard way to make these pieces.  As per usual I chose the hard way in my opinion to get better results.
 
The first front pieces at the bow are simple and pretty much more of the same.  Cut them to length and carefully mark out the cuts and get going on the mill.  It's difficult to explain my weird markings on the pieces that I cut too, as I use them as a guide to what I know to be correct in my mind?  It works for me  - it's not for everyone.


Next is where you can either make the job relatively easy or a bit more difficult.  The binding strakes partially pass over the top of the deck hatch openings.  I really wanted to maintain the integrity of "Width A" in the picture below to keep the strake uniform in thickness along is full length.

So to do this I had to scribe the strakes around these obstacles.  So instead of just cutting straight joining slots I ended up with the complex joints below.  Have no idea if this is how they should be made its just the way that I wanted to do it.


I did find that doing it this way once again made the fitting very easy as they locked into place and followed the curve of the deck so easily.  I'm very happy with the results and I have also caught up at last with the required nailing.  A few pictures below




I'm very tempted now to leave the main deck as it is now?  I understand that everything that needs to be placed on the deck will require lifting to the correct deck height but what are your thoughts on this?  I have no experience of doing what I'm suggesting but I think that it would allow anyone that looks at the model to see the work carried out inside far better.  Please let me know your thoughts.
 
So my next jobs are to make the bits, bowsprit partner, windlass supports and finish planking the inside of the bulwarks.
 
Thanks everyone - Mark

Problem solved - the belt guard was causing the issues.  I removed it - with the new motor the saw cuts better than ever.  
 
Belt guard is probably bent - will need to straighten it out before re - installing 

Problem solved - the belt guard was causing the issues.  I removed it - with the new motor the saw cuts better than ever.  
 
Belt guard is probably bent - will need to straighten it out before re - installing 

Thanks Kurt - will check this out and get back

Problem solved - the belt guard was causing the issues.  I removed it - with the new motor the saw cuts better than ever.  
 
Belt guard is probably bent - will need to straighten it out before re - installing 

Thanks Kurt - will check this out and get back

Problem solved - the belt guard was causing the issues.  I removed it - with the new motor the saw cuts better than ever.  
 
Belt guard is probably bent - will need to straighten it out before re - installing 

Hey Group,
 
I am wondering if any of you have a tip for me here.  Recently I had the saw's motor replaced by Jim and it was shipped back to me.  Once I turn the power I noticed a rattling vibration noise where the motor plugs into the rear belt gear of the saw under the guard.  After maybe no more than 10 or 15 seconds if I touch the belt guard its red hot.  Something is causing friction back here obviously.  The belt guard does look properly seated on the unit. 
 
I have an email into Jim - I know he's trying to take some time off right now.  Any ideas are appreciated - I do not want to operate the saw until I can solve this issue.
Chris

Hey Group,
 
I am wondering if any of you have a tip for me here.  Recently I had the saw's motor replaced by Jim and it was shipped back to me.  Once I turn the power I noticed a rattling vibration noise where the motor plugs into the rear belt gear of the saw under the guard.  After maybe no more than 10 or 15 seconds if I touch the belt guard its red hot.  Something is causing friction back here obviously.  The belt guard does look properly seated on the unit. 
 
I have an email into Jim - I know he's trying to take some time off right now.  Any ideas are appreciated - I do not want to operate the saw until I can solve this issue.
Chris

Congrats - gorgeous model !!!!  

I spent the last days before the well-deserved summer holiday making new clamps. Unfortunately, due to the narrow frame spacing incl. bolt heads, I could no longer use my clamps from the
La Belle. So new ones were needed. With the focus on subsequent projects, I oversized them a lot. I could now also build a Valmy in 1/48 with them (actually a nice project).
I will also make new clamps for the bow area. But there I will copy the La Belle principle 1:1, because they worked great there. I will show this in detail when it is ready.

This pear tree is beautiful, good luck. (The back part for later?)

Thank you....Today I glued the qbadges on permanently.  It needed to be done now so I can add the fancy molding on the hull and then the friezes etc.   I working my way up to the sheer and cap rail.   For the qbadge,  some acetate was placed in the window opening first from the outboard side.  Then the window itself which is laser cut on plastic as you have seen earlier.   Lastly I added the qbadge so the roof molding on the badge lined up with the 3/32" wide planking strip.  This will line up the badge properly with the molding I am going to add.  This also shows the port side which I have been working on today.
 

 
With the badge in position I added the 3/32" x 1/32" molding.  I scraped the profile into these boxwood strips in the usual way.  I created a scraper by filing the profile into an old razor blade.
 

 

I will repeat this on the other side and then add the friezes to the side of the hull next.   
 
 

Nice work Greg !  I do love this ship and enjoy watching your progress
Chris