ChrisLBren

Hey Group,
I am wondering if there is a full proof way to avoid this.  I am notching pearwood using a mill and sometimes experience chipping on the cut. Right now my mill is set at a high speed at 10000 RPM and I am using new mill bits.  Do I need to reduce speed here or just making many small passes at a time for each notch ?  
Thanks !

Hey Group,
I am wondering if there is a full proof way to avoid this.  I am notching pearwood using a mill and sometimes experience chipping on the cut. Right now my mill is set at a high speed at 10000 RPM and I am using new mill bits.  Do I need to reduce speed here or just making many small passes at a time for each notch ?  
Thanks !

I have reached another small milestone.  All of the below deck fittings and cabins are completed.  The gun deck is fully framed as well.   Next up I will start planking the inboard bulwarks.   That should make a huge difference.  
 
I hope to see many of you this weekend at the New London show.   It should be a very enjoyable weekend.   I am looking forward to it.
 







 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Chuck

Thanks guys - I can get a nice Taig lathe for my purposes around 700 with the power feed function and same collets the Mill uses.  I also really want to find a good DRO for my Taig Mill.  Thats the one advantage Sherline has over the Taig by offering that option as an install in my opinion.  

Thanks guys - I can get a nice Taig lathe for my purposes around 700 with the power feed function and same collets the Mill uses.  I also really want to find a good DRO for my Taig Mill.  Thats the one advantage Sherline has over the Taig by offering that option as an install in my opinion.  

Hi Group,
 
I purchased an Emco Unimat 3 with an extra motor and milling attachment a few years ago from a fellow member and never set it up.  Last year I purchased a Taig Mill and love it - its sturdy and powerful with a long bed.  It was ready right out of the box without any modifications and has been used extensively on my Le Gros Ventre build.
 
I am considering selling the Unimat on ebay and buying a new metal lathe - not only for ship building but also to turn wooden pens for clients.  I am leaning towards another Taig  However I am curious about the Sherline as I have heard its a terrific lathe.  I am new at wood and metal turning so want one thats a good intro model I can grow with.
 
Thanks for any opinions here.

Hi Group,
 
I purchased an Emco Unimat 3 with an extra motor and milling attachment a few years ago from a fellow member and never set it up.  Last year I purchased a Taig Mill and love it - its sturdy and powerful with a long bed.  It was ready right out of the box without any modifications and has been used extensively on my Le Gros Ventre build.
 
I am considering selling the Unimat on ebay and buying a new metal lathe - not only for ship building but also to turn wooden pens for clients.  I am leaning towards another Taig  However I am curious about the Sherline as I have heard its a terrific lathe.  I am new at wood and metal turning so want one thats a good intro model I can grow with.
 
Thanks for any opinions here.

Hi Group,
 
I purchased an Emco Unimat 3 with an extra motor and milling attachment a few years ago from a fellow member and never set it up.  Last year I purchased a Taig Mill and love it - its sturdy and powerful with a long bed.  It was ready right out of the box without any modifications and has been used extensively on my Le Gros Ventre build.
 
I am considering selling the Unimat on ebay and buying a new metal lathe - not only for ship building but also to turn wooden pens for clients.  I am leaning towards another Taig  However I am curious about the Sherline as I have heard its a terrific lathe.  I am new at wood and metal turning so want one thats a good intro model I can grow with.
 
Thanks for any opinions here.

Hi ☺️
 
 last photos before putting the glass on the model

Hello everyone.
Last year I successfully completed the construction of the Le Gros Ventre model according to Gerard Delacroix's monograph and I chose L'Amarante as the next model (also according to GD's monograph). I started the construction of the POF at the end of last year and will gradually publish photos from the construction process here.
First, I made a jig for installing the individual frames on the keel and started assembling the keel.
     

The channels:

That model looks terrible in my opinion - a bastardized attempt at accurate construction.  Build the Caldercraft model or Chris's design with Amati if it ever sees the light of day

Good morning Group,
 
After some spending some time in the doldrums, I have restarted Le Gros Ventre and spent the past month working on this assembly.  I probably built each part a half dozen times...
 
Decisions, do I begin the installation of the frames or tackle the other really tough part of the build, the hawse extensions?

Good morning Group,
 
After some spending some time in the doldrums, I have restarted Le Gros Ventre and spent the past month working on this assembly.  I probably built each part a half dozen times...
 
Decisions, do I begin the installation of the frames or tackle the other really tough part of the build, the hawse extensions?

Nice work Chris - I know what you mean Ancre plans.  They are so accurate - I made the same mistake leaving too much fat on the stern part assemblies on my Le Gros Ventre build and after a half dozen failed attempts I learned - the more accurate your parts are to the plans including the bevels/bias - the better the results.  And less sanding !!!
Chris

Nice work Chris - I know what you mean Ancre plans.  They are so accurate - I made the same mistake leaving too much fat on the stern part assemblies on my Le Gros Ventre build and after a half dozen failed attempts I learned - the more accurate your parts are to the plans including the bevels/bias - the better the results.  And less sanding !!!
Chris

Good morning Group,
 
After some spending some time in the doldrums, I have restarted Le Gros Ventre and spent the past month working on this assembly.  I probably built each part a half dozen times...
 
Decisions, do I begin the installation of the frames or tackle the other really tough part of the build, the hawse extensions?

Keel section is complete (and shortened a wee bit on plan sheet 4 - its one of the only errors in the Mono)- thanks to the Taig for the rabbet, and a lot of hand sanding.  Next up the wing transom and tricky stern parts.

Nice work Chris - I know what you mean Ancre plans.  They are so accurate - I made the same mistake leaving too much fat on the stern part assemblies on my Le Gros Ventre build and after a half dozen failed attempts I learned - the more accurate your parts are to the plans including the bevels/bias - the better the results.  And less sanding !!!
Chris

While a sizable amount of time has past since my last post. Work on the model has progressed at what I would consider a snails pace. As we can all relate, each step presents its own set of challenges. The stern section was something I was really looking forward to. Time will tell if I deciphered the plans correctly. I'm finding the process of cutting in the cannon port rather tedious. As a result, I only do it when the mood strikes. Enjoy the pictures. 
 
 

Good morning Group,
 
After some spending some time in the doldrums, I have restarted Le Gros Ventre and spent the past month working on this assembly.  I probably built each part a half dozen times...
 
Decisions, do I begin the installation of the frames or tackle the other really tough part of the build, the hawse extensions?

I started work on the bow structure:
 

That model looks terrible in my opinion - a bastardized attempt at accurate construction.  Build the Caldercraft model or Chris's design with Amati if it ever sees the light of day

Working steady now on the model which is good.   I doing this while laser cutting parts for those first two chapters.
 
The lower bulkhead against the aft platform was next.  This is pretty easy and straight forward.  But before I can get to work on that I have to add the gun deck clamps for the beams.  There are many ways to find the height for the deck clamp.  But I chose to create another template.  Its just easier for me.   And I hope for you as well.   Place it on the model with some tape.  The top edge of the template under that inboard shear plank.  Then trace along the bottom edge of the template to mark the TOP of the deck clamp.
 

The deck clamp is made using two lengths of 1/4 x 1/16 cedar strips.  Just follow the line you made.  The top of the strips against your line.  This chapter will come supplied with a few gun deck beams.  You can see I cleaned the char off one in that same photo.  I cut it to length and test fit it in position.  It should slide right up against the great cabin planking.   Hopefully you have the height of your deck clamps equal on both sides so you dont have a sloped deck beam...
 

I have that beam sitting on the side while I take the two pieces that are laser cut for the lower bulkhead.  Its all etched and ready to go.  You just have to clean any char and tweak its shape a bit.  You want to get a pretty good tight fit against the bulwarks on each side.   But remember you will have a gap where the inboard planking would have been.   Thats fine.  So you have some leeway here.   The inboard edge of each bulkhead should be flush with the opening for the stairs.   You can see this in the photo below while giving it a test fit.
 

I applied some finish to each piece before gluing it in position.   One note however.   Continue to test fit both sides of the bulkhead....with the beam in position.   You will see that after tweaking its shape that it sticks up beyond the deck beam.   That is by design...so leave that as is.   You may have to adjust as needed on your model depending on how far apart your platforms are.  But this small lip will be important later when we add the next bulkhead on top of that beam.

That next fancy bulkhead is my next project.   The plan fits really good so now I just have to spend the next couple of weeks turning this bulkhead into parts that look convincing.  Its a major focal point for the model so I will spend a lot of time getting the details and design just right.  Hopefully.  That first quarter deck beam is not glued in position yet.   Its just there to help me plan out my next moves for this bulkhead.   The windows and door will be a challenge for sure.  But I am eager to get started.
 

 
 
 

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