usedtosail

The bowsprit rigging is completed as are all the lower mast stays. I can now tighten and tie off the deadeye lanyards, then start the ratlines.
 

The bowsprit rigging is completed as are all the lower mast stays. I can now tighten and tie off the deadeye lanyards, then start the ratlines.
 

The bowsprit rigging is completed as are all the lower mast stays. I can now tighten and tie off the deadeye lanyards, then start the ratlines.
 

Included in the kit will be a set of optional lodging and hanging knees. It'll be up to you if you want the extra work, but for the manual, I have to take one for the team! These are the hanging knees. The truncated ones are the parts that will be fitted where the gun port would otherwise be obstructed by the longer part. Of course, each part also needs to be specifically shaped to its position. Plenty of spares are supplied.
 

 
 
 
 
Here they are fitted, along with the lodging knees.

 
 
 
 
And the fore deck beams are now added, with the optional knees also installed, followed by the boat beams. These also have optional knees. 


 
 
 
And here she is so far!!
 

Time for another update. 
This was something I was looking forward to doing. Not covering up all that work I'd just done, but to turn a corner and be able to do it all again for the next layer in the Indy cake.
 
Before I did that, I needed to add the scale-sized cannonballs to the shot garlands. These are done with liquid CA and some thin-ended paddle tweezers that won't knock the previous ball glued into place.

 
 
 
And with that, it's onto the beams. As the upper side will have some timber showing through the deck cutouts, these were totally cleaned of char. The whole upper face was cleaned also because they look much better for the instruction photos.

 
 
 
There are two lengths of pillar, depending on whether they sit on a deck or on a grate coaming. 

 
 
 
 
All deck beams were painted red, except for the upper side and all the slots. The beam ID is engraved on each beam and this ties in with the engraved number of the deck beam sill. The beams are now slotted and glued into position. Those beams that are supported are continually test fitted with a pillar before being finally glued. Also important to make sure the pillar doesn't push the beam higher than was intended. A steel rule checks this as I go.



 
 
 
The forward beam for the quarterdeck is not only shaped in profile, but also curved across its length. To create this, the beam is made from laminated pear parts, glued together over a jig. When this is dry, the part is cleaned up and fitted into place, sitting atop two of the bitts.

Post One hundred and Sixty-two.
 
Completing the Yawl
 
The third of the allocated boats for Sphinx, it’s nice to come back to it with all the planking having been done previously.

00620(2)
I have built this model before but on that version, I rigged her for sail. The Sphinx version is set up for rowing but will be tweaked a little to reflect the layout in the Pandora book drawings.
 
I won’t bore everyone with blow-by-blow details of the construction I covered this in the log below.
 
18th c Ships boats by Blue Ensign – FINISHED - Vanguard Models -1:64 - - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800 - Model Ship World™
 
However, having thought that the Yawl would prove to be the easiest of the three to build, having done it before, it has turned out to be the most problematic.
 
I wasn’t happy with the fit if the sternsheets, so I decided to scratch a replacement.

8287
Despite the fact that Lavery notes:
 The Yawl was unusual in that it was decked throughout its length, in three stages.
 I opted to use the provided brass etch decking and grating, altho' it did mean drilling thro’ the decking plate to attach the lifting rings.
 
As with my first Yawl build, I reduced the foredeck by removal of the board adjacent to the mast support.

8482(2)
With the Yawl I opted to use the kit non-operational rudder assembly, except I did not use the brass etch facings, preferring to laminate the core with 0.6mm Pearwood.
The strapping was formed using laser board strip.

3814(2)
This Yawl plan from the NMM (ZAZ7122) is set up for six oars which is right for the size and does show tholes set up each side on alternative thwarts.
Does the plan indicate that there would be corresponding tholes on the starboard side of the hull? This would suggest that she is set up for double banking, but single banking would also work with this layout with tholes on the alternative thwarts.
I have left the kit arrangement as is- set up for six oar double banking.

8465(2)
I couldn’t resist seeing how two burly fishing boat skippers would fair sitting double banked on the narrowest thwart.

8501
and at midships, with a space of 5’ 9”
It seems to work at 1:64 scale, but enough of this playing around.

8484(2)
I used the provided Pearwood oars with the char removed, and with a very limited round applied to the shafts. These are delicate pieces, and the handles particularly will break very easily.
At this scale there is very little option to model the swelling of the looms without working the shafts using separate 1mm Boxwood square stuff, something I was not prepared to do for the number involved over the three boats.
I opted to paint the oars red as a contrast to the bright finish of the boats.
 

8502(2)

8506(2)
The kit also provides very pretty little grapnels. These were silver soldered together before chemical blackening.

8481(2)

8476(2)
The completed set: has taken a fair amount of time to complete the boats, but it’s time I don’t begrudge, they are interesting little projects in their own right.
 

8488(2)
Fully convinced that Sphinx looks better without boats onboard.

8499(2)

8495(2)
I will now return to Sphinx to attend to the final finishings.
 
B.E.
22/09/2022
 
 
 

Spanker gaff and boom installed and rigged.

 
Flag line to be rigged later.
 

My wife managed to make up the first batch of Ranger kits today...

Hello again to all –
 
Thanks for the comments and likes, as always.   
 
It has not been that long since the last segment, but since this is a retrospective of the build I can get another one out quickly, as long as I have time left over after the honey-do list.  This one is a bit wordy, with only a few photos since I concentrated on building and not taking photos of my progress.  I hope that the explanations will be sufficient.
 
In the second segment, posted a while ago, the superstructure was in the middle of construction based on the available photographs.  To remind you, here is a close-up of the best photo of the superstructure and a ‘plan view’ taken by a US Air Force plane from almost directly overhead.
 


 
At that time all of the decks and deck houses had been built and the doors, handrails, ladders, and railings for the lower decks had been installed.  The structures of the top two decks and the bridge had been built up but not detailed.   Next the funnel was built.  It started with a ¾” birch dowel that was carved down to an oval cross section.
 

 
The dowel was wrapped in 0.02” styrene attached with gel cyano.   The seam was not positioned along the aft centerline but was offset to one side.  I find that even after filling, sanding, priming and painting there can be a slight imperfection in the surface.  I think that it is less noticeable if it is not centered, which is where most people look.  A reinforcing collar was made for the bottom of the stack from 0.015” strip, painted black.  At the top the photos seem to show that there is a narrow lip enclosing a large round exhaust fitting and a much smaller pipe, probably for excess steam.  A homemade decal of the SeaLand logo was created in my printer and applied to both sides of the funnel.  Actually, this decal ultimately looked too small so you will see a larger one in future photos.
 
Directly ahead of the funnel is a large, square fitting.  I could never be sure of its shape or function, but in one of the fuzzier photos there is a hint that it might be a raised hatch with open doors on either side.  The interior can’t be seen at all, but could contain filters for an air intake.  I modeled it that way but I ask anyone who has a better idea to let me know.  I believe that the six capped square tubes that stand alongside the funnel are the exhausts for the ventilation system.  Their relative heights were taken by comparison with doors and railings in the photos.  They were made slightly overlong, then trimmed to a height that ‘looked right’. 
 
The lifeboat davits were Frankensteined from two cast pewter fittings from Bluejacket.  The top arm of a 7/8” davit could be ground to a thinner profile that closely matched the photos.  But the slides were not long enough since the deck had been widened and the lifeboat had to travel further to reach the edge.  I cut off the foot of one fitting but cut the second fitting higher up the slide.  Mating these two gave me the length that I needed.  They were secured with a bit of brass wire across the joint then filled and glued together with an epoxy product called ‘JB Weld’ that has metal particles in it.  I find that it gives one of the strongest bonds across small metal mating surfaces. 
 

 
The detailing of the upper deck and bridge continued with the large radar mast.  It was built up from a length of 1/8” brass tubing with a 0.032” brass rod crossarm for the signal flags.  A PE ladder leads up to a round lookout platform with a bit of PE railing curled around a dowel to fit.  A radar dish was fashioned from several PE fittings.  Although it looks good and matches some photos of the ship, further examination of the photos taken during the incident showed that the radar at that time was a solid bar.  This radar was removed and a more correct one was built and will appear in later photos.  Four guy wires made of fly tying thread were installed later.
 
Two small exhaust stacks were fitted to the forward corners of the bridge house.  They were cut and carved with slots opened down their lower ends to fit over the forward bridge solid railings.  Small sections of plastic tubes were heat bent then trimmed and painted black as exhaust pipes. 
Final details include a smaller simple mast seen in the photos but whose function I don’t know.  A radio loop was bent up from brass rod and installed as well.  PE railings were fitted around all the deck and bridge wing edges and nameboards were printed with a type face that matched those seen in the photos.  To get a sense of the sizes involved, the nameboard is just over 1/16" tall.
 

 
The lifeboat davits were made more accurate by sawing grooves in the integral sheaves where the lifting lines will run, then the channels in the slides were filed open and square.  The davits were painted white with the sheaves and slide channels painted black.  A Bluejacket casting of an open lifeboat was filed smooth and painted.  After the lifeboat was installed over a square section support the lifting lines with PE blocks and tackles were run.  A final line runs at the top from davit to davit for support.  A final detail of coiled hanks of rope hung from this line will be installed later.
 

 
And here is the superstructure with all the final details added, such as the running lights, the guy wires, and the signal flag hoists with an American flag flying.
 

 
In the next segment the bow and stern decks will be detailed.
 
Till then, stay safe and well.
 
Dan

Thank you Glenn. They took a bit of time but were fun to make and rig.
 
I am working on the rigging of the bowsprit shrouds and stays and the lower mast shrouds. I had to drill out the holes in the stem for the bowsprit stays because of the serving on the lines. I was a bit apprehensive about it but I just drilled half way from both sides and it worked out fine. I also had to drill out two eyebolts so the served line would fit through them for the bowsprit shrouds. I am working on a lot of lines at the same time as it takes time for the lacquer to dry on the fixed seizings.
 

Thank you Glenn. They took a bit of time but were fun to make and rig.
 
I am working on the rigging of the bowsprit shrouds and stays and the lower mast shrouds. I had to drill out the holes in the stem for the bowsprit stays because of the serving on the lines. I was a bit apprehensive about it but I just drilled half way from both sides and it worked out fine. I also had to drill out two eyebolts so the served line would fit through them for the bowsprit shrouds. I am working on a lot of lines at the same time as it takes time for the lacquer to dry on the fixed seizings.
 

Thank you Glenn. They took a bit of time but were fun to make and rig.
 
I am working on the rigging of the bowsprit shrouds and stays and the lower mast shrouds. I had to drill out the holes in the stem for the bowsprit stays because of the serving on the lines. I was a bit apprehensive about it but I just drilled half way from both sides and it worked out fine. I also had to drill out two eyebolts so the served line would fit through them for the bowsprit shrouds. I am working on a lot of lines at the same time as it takes time for the lacquer to dry on the fixed seizings.
 

Thank you Glenn. They took a bit of time but were fun to make and rig.
 
I am working on the rigging of the bowsprit shrouds and stays and the lower mast shrouds. I had to drill out the holes in the stem for the bowsprit stays because of the serving on the lines. I was a bit apprehensive about it but I just drilled half way from both sides and it worked out fine. I also had to drill out two eyebolts so the served line would fit through them for the bowsprit shrouds. I am working on a lot of lines at the same time as it takes time for the lacquer to dry on the fixed seizings.
 

And more...
 
Knees(?) now added, as well as a painted brick floor for the stove.
 


 
 
 
And the gun carts now have some colour applied to them, as well as ironwork and wheels. Remember, these won't be fitted with barrels until the model is more or less complete.




 
 
 
Capstan finally done.

 
 
 
As are the hand pumps.


 
 
 
No one wants to walk down stairs without a safety rope around them!

 
 
 
And the stove makes an appearance.

 
 
 
And this is Indy up to date. Back in the shipyard tomorrow  

Swallow is finished, other than a few touch-ups which will be addressed after I mount her.  My plan is to duplicate the base from RMG as much as possible.  It will probably take me a few weeks to source the wood and draw up the plans.




  

I wanted to try something that is rarely seen on a model: hammocks:





 

I finally finished the yards with all the blocks and foot ropes. I'll leave the parrels until I am ready to add each yard.
 

 
I have started rigging the bow sprit by adding the gammoning. Adding the stays and sprint sail yard will be next.

I finally finished the yards with all the blocks and foot ropes. I'll leave the parrels until I am ready to add each yard.
 

 
I have started rigging the bow sprit by adding the gammoning. Adding the stays and sprint sail yard will be next.

I finally finished the yards with all the blocks and foot ropes. I'll leave the parrels until I am ready to add each yard.
 

 
I have started rigging the bow sprit by adding the gammoning. Adding the stays and sprint sail yard will be next.

A great looking set of yards, well done.

Ship's stove.
 
 I know I did the for the VM web-shop but this one is now printed in 8K resolution using a different resin which is tough. There are two PE frets with this stove, with a few spares for things like pulleys and eyelets etc. The stove assembly is the same as the one in the shop, but here are some pics of the work.
 


 
 
 
Tamiya fine primer was used on the stove, followed by Tamiya Flat Black. The stove was then weathered with Uschi van der Rosten steel pigment. At this stage, the chimney and pipe are only sat in position. They'll be glued to the stove later in the build.


 

I finally finished the yards with all the blocks and foot ropes. I'll leave the parrels until I am ready to add each yard.
 

 
I have started rigging the bow sprit by adding the gammoning. Adding the stays and sprint sail yard will be next.

I finally finished the yards with all the blocks and foot ropes. I'll leave the parrels until I am ready to add each yard.
 

 
I have started rigging the bow sprit by adding the gammoning. Adding the stays and sprint sail yard will be next.

I finally finished the yards with all the blocks and foot ropes. I'll leave the parrels until I am ready to add each yard.
 

 
I have started rigging the bow sprit by adding the gammoning. Adding the stays and sprint sail yard will be next.

So in the last couple of weeks I have managed to clean up the yards and paint them black. I have also stropped all the blocks for the yards and added the stirrups for the foot ropes. I added one foot rope to each of the topGallant yards and will start adding them to the other yards soon.
 

 
I have also added all the lower shrouds to the masts and have started adding the upper deadeyes to the shrouds. I am using a throat seizing to attach the deadeyes initially, which I can slide to get them even. I am also using two twisted pieces of wire to hold the upper and lower deadeyes while I get the seizing tight. Once all the deadeyes are on the shrouds I will start doing a final height check and fix the seizings to hold them, then add two round seizings to hold the loose ends of the shrouds to themselves.