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popeye2sea

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Everything posted by popeye2sea

  1. popeye2sea
    Remember, our concept of safety was vastly different from back in the day.
  2. popeye2sea
    Is this kit back in production? When my kit hull warped after many years of storage, I was forced to buy a replacement on e-bay.
  3. popeye2sea
    Your looking at the rear of the forecastle. They were quite high in those days.
  4. popeye2sea
    Remember, 10 of those lines contribute no stress to the rail at all except when actually furling or reefing the sail.
  5. popeye2sea
    Not sure how much stress those lines would have on them. The clew, bunt, leech and reef lines would not be under strain when belayed. The others would though. But even these are for relatively light sails except for the mizzen tops'l bowlines.
  6. popeye2sea
    Studding sail booms were not always mounted forward of and above their respective yards. Some were mounted as you suggest and others were mounted above and behind the yard. In the mid 17th century the Dutch and the French tended to carry their stuns'l booms abaft the yard where the English carried them before the yard. The boom irons also changed around the beginning of the 18th century. The proportion of the length of the yardarms also got larger when reefs started to be taken in the the sails. The longer yard arms allowed a better lead for reef tackles. Since the Prince de Neufchatel, I believe dates to 1812. She probably carried her stuns'l booms above and before the yard.
  7. popeye2sea
    You are probably right on that account
  8. popeye2sea
    I think there are a couple of reasons. The first goes back to when the lower sail on the mizzen was a lateen sail. It acted more like a fore and aft sail and the lower forward part extended before the mast. The lowest square sail on the mizzen was then the topmast. Tradition then just carries on from there. The second reason is that the gap between the main and mizzen is often smaller than that between the fore and main. A full square sail for the mizzen course would 'steal the wind' or blanket the wind from the main course. It would not add that much driving force. The sails of the main and mizzen are considered after sails and balance the effort of the forward sails which are the foremast and jib sails.
  9. popeye2sea
    One thing I noticed about your method, and it shows in your picture below, is that you seem to cross over the laniard from inside to outside. When you reeve the laniard you should always be passing from inboard out on the upper deadeye and from outboard in on the lower. The laniard should not be crossing from inboard to outboard between the deadeyes. That could be introducing some twist also.
  10. popeye2sea
    Interesting side note: there were two hammocks for each pair of hooks. Every crewman had his own hammock but there were two men assigned to each "space". So when one man got up he unhooked one side of his hammock to hang "folded" from a single hook while the man coming off watch "unfolded" his into the same spot. Hope that makes sense. Hard to describe, easier to show. Regards,
  11. popeye2sea
    Sails are attached (bent) to the yards by robands. Depending on the era of the ship they were either bent to the yards directly or to a jackstay above the yard. There were usually two robands per sail cloth, sometimes both placed between the seams, and somtimes, one on the seam and one halfway between. The photos below show the two methods.
  12. popeye2sea
    https://youtu.be/n0Q-6TCY8qk 1812 Marines musket drill It's kind of a sloppy drill. We were loading musket balls and they were supplied to us separate from the cartridge so some of us had to pull the musket ball out from pockets or where ever we could stash them while firing. Normally the ball is enclosed with the powder in a paper cartridge and the drill is much smoother with everyone in unison.
  13. popeye2sea
    I agree. The halyard tubs that are supplied with the kit are useless for the lengths of halyard involved here. I am going to have to come up with a way to lash the halyard up in a coil against the mast Regards,
  14. popeye2sea
    The information that I have shows that the main yard tye should be the same thickness as the shrouds and the halyard 3/4 of the tye, so it is a pretty big rope. Everyone is saying the line looks too thick, perhaps I have miscalculated the size? Main stay circumference = 1/2 the diameter of the main mast; mast diameter 0.43" / 2 = 0.215 0.215/3.14 = 0.068" dia. Main shrouds = 1/2 main stay ; .068/2 = .03" Main yard tye = 0.03" (0.76mm) Halyard = 0.02" (0.5mm) Scaled up that gives a 2" diameter rope. Still workable by hand. Please correct me now before I start rigging this whole thing incorrectly. Regards,
  15. popeye2sea
    Where is this block used and/or what is its purpose? I have not heard of a triple sister block, and the description of a four legged stanchion for it is puzzling me.
  16. popeye2sea
    Still doing musket drills and demonstrations in the Navy yard. The ships upper deck is open to the public. I have the added benefit of getting into the dry dock every once in a while to check whats going on with the refit. Not much going on with my build at the moment. That pesky employment thing keeps getting in the way. Regards,
  17. popeye2sea
    "Fairlead"
  18. popeye2sea
    There may be a false stay set up beneath the stay. It would have an eye spliced in to its upper end that would be seized to the stay just below the mouse. The lower end could be set up with deadeyes or blocks just inboard of the stay on the bow sprit, or below the stay on the foremast. Regards
  19. popeye2sea
    Correct. Served over is the same as served.
  20. popeye2sea
    The description is exactly what you see in the last diagram. A long block is much like a sister block. It looks like two single blocks end to end. In some versions the upper sheave is larger than the lower to give some clearance between the parts of the fall. A long stropped single block simply means that the strop is longer than you would find on a regular block. It is what you see for the lower block of the tackle in the last diagram. One end of the strop holds the thimble with the hook, the other end is the becket loop where the tackle fall is bent on. Hope that makes a little more sense.
  21. popeye2sea
    Does it look very lightly timbered to anyone else?
  22. popeye2sea
    I can't find any reference to a score block.
  23. popeye2sea
    That ship is the indicator loop cable layer USCG Pequot (ex army minelayer General Samuel M. Mills). Built in 1909 and transferred to the Coast Guard in 1922. She was transferred to the Navy and stationed in Boston during WW II. She was decommissioned in Boston in 1946 and sold for scrap in 1947. Indicator loop cables were laid on the ocean floor to detect submarines. Regards, Henry
  24. popeye2sea
    Someone may offer corrections on this because I am not as familiar with fore and aft rigs, but I believe your answer is both were used. There has to be a means of hoisting the yard up into place. That is the halyard, whether it be rigged as a tye or jeers. Once the yard was hoisted to its proper height the slings were passed. Often the jeers were slacked off slightly so that the yard hung mostly by the slings. This relieved the strain on the tackles. Since this yard is not often struck or shifted the sling is semi-permanent and set up with lashings. The slings had the added benefit of holding up the yard if the halyard was shot away in battle. Regards,
  25. popeye2sea
    For me, I love the historical, educational aspect of the ships as much as the building of them, so my current plan is to build ships that will show the evolution of ships of the line over the centuries. Ships that fit the bill are: Victory (1760's), Soleil Royal (1660's), Sovereign of the Seas (1630's), Revenge (1570's), Mary Rose (1510's), Henri Grace a Dieu or Great Harry (1510's). A side benefit is that if I go in that progression I will moving from plastic kits to wood kits to wood scratch built. Of course there is also the Constitution because.....well...you know. Regards,

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