popeye2sea

The clew lines are the easiest and most straightforward to answer. The clew block, sheet block and tack block would all be hooked together (in practice the strops were actually passed through and around each other) and the clew block was hauled up almost to its leading block at the yard. The buntlines, leechlines, and bowlines would either be unrigged completely or the ends would be hitched around the yard. Probably at the locations where they would end up if the sail were furled.

The evolution of the eventual connection of the forecastle and quarter decks is tied directly to the evolution of the cannon. In the early days of fighting sail the ship was more like a floating castle full of infantry. Combat was mostly coming alongside, firing off volleys of arrows, the occasional shot from relatively weak cannons, and then boarding the enemy for hand to hand combat. Hence the need for towering fore castles and stern castles, just like on land, to give a height advantage and additional fire power. As cannons became more powerful and accurate, they came to be more the primary weapon. Take a look at the Sovereign of the Seas. Initially she had cannons mounted in her fore and stern castle pointing in every direction, even inboard towards the waist. That is because the fighting tactics had not caught up to the technology. They were still focused on closing and boarding more than gunnery. But she was also one of the first ships to be a true ship of the line. During her day line of battle tactics were developed and ships began to focus all of there fire power to the sides. In fact, during one of her later rebuilds all of the Sovereigns armament was shifted to fire outboard as broadside batteries. As the guns got bigger they needed to be carried lower in the ship. This obviated the need for the towering castles fore and aft and eventually they disappear altogether in favor of gun decks. The logical next step was even more cannons so the covering over of the waist provides more room for cannons. Regards,

To marl something is to make a series of half hitches over it. The purpose in this case is to hold the ends of the tapered strands down before serving over.

The madness continues... Working on getting the lower sail rigging set properly before the fo'c'sle is set into place. The lines involved are the main sheet, main tack, fore sheet, and sprit sail sheet. The basic idea I am following is to get the proper working length of line coiled on to the kevels so that the sail can be set or furled and the yards braced around as needed. So looking at the rigging plan uncovers some problems. The standing part of the main brace is made fast at the flag staff and the working end leads through a block on and eyebolt well aft then inboard over the rail to a belaying pin. Meanwhile an unused kevel is on the round house deck just forward of the poop deck (kevels are designed to carry heavier lines like braces). This lead is completely wrong. No brace would ever be fixed to the flag staff. My fix: The standing part of the brace will be seized to the eyebolt that formerly held its leading block. A new fairlead hole will be drilled through the side close by the un-used kevel on the round house deck and the main brace will belay on the kevel. The plan has the main tack and the sprit sail sheet leading through the same fairlead hole and belaying on the same kevel. There is not enough space in the fairlead or on the kevel for both lines. My fix: drill a new fairlead hole for the sprit sail sheet directly below the fairlead for the fore sheet. The sprit sail sheet will belay either on the same kevel as the fore sheet or on the kevel just forward of that. The only problem is (and this is probably the reason Heller did it that way) the forward kevel is well under the fo'c'sle deck and nearly inaccessible after the deck is placed. So I have to make the decision where to belay this line now. Not shown on the photo above: The fore tacks both lead through a single hole on the stem below the figurehead. I will drill an additional hole so that each tack has its own fairlead hole. While we are on the subject of the tack lines. For this ship the tacks run single and the end of the line was terminated in a tack knot which was put through the strops of the sheet and clew garnet blocks at the clew of the sail. The knot was actually a double wall and crown knot. Below is my attempt at the tack knots for the main sail. The knot is tied and set up so that the ends lead down through the knot then they are tapered, marled down, and served over. The line is 1.0 mm morope. Until next time... Laissez le bon temps rouler!

Remember, our concept of safety was vastly different from back in the day.

Is this kit back in production? When my kit hull warped after many years of storage, I was forced to buy a replacement on e-bay.

Your looking at the rear of the forecastle. They were quite high in those days.

Remember, 10 of those lines contribute no stress to the rail at all except when actually furling or reefing the sail.

Not sure how much stress those lines would have on them. The clew, bunt, leech and reef lines would not be under strain when belayed. The others would though. But even these are for relatively light sails except for the mizzen tops'l bowlines.

Studding sail booms were not always mounted forward of and above their respective yards. Some were mounted as you suggest and others were mounted above and behind the yard. In the mid 17th century the Dutch and the French tended to carry their stuns'l booms abaft the yard where the English carried them before the yard. The boom irons also changed around the beginning of the 18th century. The proportion of the length of the yardarms also got larger when reefs started to be taken in the the sails. The longer yard arms allowed a better lead for reef tackles. Since the Prince de Neufchatel, I believe dates to 1812. She probably carried her stuns'l booms above and before the yard.

You are probably right on that account

I think there are a couple of reasons. The first goes back to when the lower sail on the mizzen was a lateen sail. It acted more like a fore and aft sail and the lower forward part extended before the mast. The lowest square sail on the mizzen was then the topmast. Tradition then just carries on from there. The second reason is that the gap between the main and mizzen is often smaller than that between the fore and main. A full square sail for the mizzen course would 'steal the wind' or blanket the wind from the main course. It would not add that much driving force. The sails of the main and mizzen are considered after sails and balance the effort of the forward sails which are the foremast and jib sails.

One thing I noticed about your method, and it shows in your picture below, is that you seem to cross over the laniard from inside to outside. When you reeve the laniard you should always be passing from inboard out on the upper deadeye and from outboard in on the lower. The laniard should not be crossing from inboard to outboard between the deadeyes. That could be introducing some twist also.

Interesting side note: there were two hammocks for each pair of hooks. Every crewman had his own hammock but there were two men assigned to each "space". So when one man got up he unhooked one side of his hammock to hang "folded" from a single hook while the man coming off watch "unfolded" his into the same spot. Hope that makes sense. Hard to describe, easier to show. Regards,

Sails are attached (bent) to the yards by robands. Depending on the era of the ship they were either bent to the yards directly or to a jackstay above the yard. There were usually two robands per sail cloth, sometimes both placed between the seams, and somtimes, one on the seam and one halfway between. The photos below show the two methods.

https://youtu.be/n0Q-6TCY8qk 1812 Marines musket drill It's kind of a sloppy drill. We were loading musket balls and they were supplied to us separate from the cartridge so some of us had to pull the musket ball out from pockets or where ever we could stash them while firing. Normally the ball is enclosed with the powder in a paper cartridge and the drill is much smoother with everyone in unison.

I agree. The halyard tubs that are supplied with the kit are useless for the lengths of halyard involved here. I am going to have to come up with a way to lash the halyard up in a coil against the mast Regards,

The information that I have shows that the main yard tye should be the same thickness as the shrouds and the halyard 3/4 of the tye, so it is a pretty big rope. Everyone is saying the line looks too thick, perhaps I have miscalculated the size? Main stay circumference = 1/2 the diameter of the main mast; mast diameter 0.43" / 2 = 0.215 0.215/3.14 = 0.068" dia. Main shrouds = 1/2 main stay ; .068/2 = .03" Main yard tye = 0.03" (0.76mm) Halyard = 0.02" (0.5mm) Scaled up that gives a 2" diameter rope. Still workable by hand. Please correct me now before I start rigging this whole thing incorrectly. Regards,

Where is this block used and/or what is its purpose? I have not heard of a triple sister block, and the description of a four legged stanchion for it is puzzling me.

Still doing musket drills and demonstrations in the Navy yard. The ships upper deck is open to the public. I have the added benefit of getting into the dry dock every once in a while to check whats going on with the refit. Not much going on with my build at the moment. That pesky employment thing keeps getting in the way. Regards,

"Fairlead"

There may be a false stay set up beneath the stay. It would have an eye spliced in to its upper end that would be seized to the stay just below the mouse. The lower end could be set up with deadeyes or blocks just inboard of the stay on the bow sprit, or below the stay on the foremast. Regards

Correct. Served over is the same as served.

The description is exactly what you see in the last diagram. A long block is much like a sister block. It looks like two single blocks end to end. In some versions the upper sheave is larger than the lower to give some clearance between the parts of the fall. A long stropped single block simply means that the strop is longer than you would find on a regular block. It is what you see for the lower block of the tackle in the last diagram. One end of the strop holds the thimble with the hook, the other end is the becket loop where the tackle fall is bent on. Hope that makes a little more sense.

Does it look very lightly timbered to anyone else?