Blue Ensign

Not quite Andy, all the lines pass thro' the blocks attached to the forward crosstrees on the Fore Top then thro' the equivalent blocks attached to the aft crosstrees, then down to the deck.

The Main top has only four beneath the top (two each side) attached to the forward crosstrees only, the lines pass thro' the blocks and then directly to the deck.

Well that's how  Chris Watton sees it.

B.E.

Well Andy it depends in part whether you want to follow the kit plans No 7 and 8, or Sections 15.37 or 15.39 in your newly acquired Volume IV.

In terms of the kit plans for the Fore Top there are three block each side of the top both fore and aft to take the Spritsail Topsail braces, and bunt and leechlines. It looks to me that they intend the inner double block to take both the Spritsail and Spritsail topsail braces, the outer single block to take the leechlines, and the middle block to take the bunt lines.

On the Main top they are showing only two blocks beneath the top each side on the forward crosstree only. These appear to be for the Bunt and leechlines which are then carried directly to the deck without passing through a set of aft blocks.

I'll leave you to read the sections in Volume IV and decide which way you want to go.

B.E.

Top looks good Andy.

The blocks beneath the tops are for the Leech and buntlines. The kit arrangement has them attached to eyebolts set into the fore and aft crosstrees, but in reality the strops of the blocks passed through slots in the boarding of the tops and was secured by wooden toggles.

B.E.

Good progress Hamilton, I like the approach you are taking.

One thing about that transom piece, they seem to have taken the design across the top directly from that on HMS Victory. Personally I wouldn't use it even if it was in good order.

Making a replacement gives you more scope to tweak the design, and you have a good while yet to think about your approach to  decoration.

Cheers,

B.E.

Phew, that's a relief I had visions of exploding microwaves all over the world.

Did you heat the solution at a particular setting, high, medium or low,?

Interesting about the stablility, 'rubbing off' can present problems when handling even when successfully covered.

I'm using a different brand of blackening to you, I might give the technical guys a ring at Carr's and ask them what they think, it does say on the container that the stuff is 'Toxic by inhalation'

B.E.

The blackening looks good Timmo, but microwaving the guns is a new one on me,   can you safely put metal objects in a microwave?

How stable is the finish on the guns, having been cooked is there less tendency for the surface to rub off? I had to coat my guns after blackening.

Cheers,

B.E.

It’s a tricky situation Mark, but the fact that you have removed previous decks, and are thinking of replacing the current one indicates to me that perhaps you feel that given the extra commitment and detailing required in a scratch pof build, she and you deserve better. In that case I would go again with a good supply of wider boards to facilitate the planking pattern.
 

Incidently did Licorne have strakes of heavier top and butt planking along the  outer edges where the guns run in and out.
 

On the other hand if you have already conceded some simplifications and not much of the Gun deck will be visible, a nicely planked Quarterdeck and Foc’sle will go a long way to easing any feeling of disappointment you may have about the gundeck.
 

I of course speak only as a hacker of pob kits where one can more readily accept deficiencies and simplifications because it is only the visible that matters, and levels of accuracy have already been conceded.
 

Look forward with interest to see what you eventually decide.
 

Regards,
 

B.E.

A little light reading for you Daniel,

http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/Seamanship/Fordyce(1837)_p47.html

http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/Seamanship/X804Obs5.html
 

http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/Shipbuilding/Sutherland(1717b)_p190.html
 

http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/Shipbuilding/Sutherland(1717b)_p185.html
 

http://www.bruzelius.info/Nautica/Seamanship/Fordyce(1837)_p51.html

Hope it helps.

M.

All looks shipshape and tidy Jason, - nice job

M.

That's a very fine build you have going there sparrow, nice little modifications, and I'm impressed by your  replacement decorations  a great personal touch.

Regards,

B.E.

Very nice work on your capstan Ferit, that early type is I believe called a crab capstan and is appropriate to the period of your build. Berlin just wouldn't have looked right with the later style fitted to Victory.

Regards,

B.E.

I'm with the others JP  I think you've made an excellent job of the planking and you should be well pleased with it.

I look forward to further developments.

Cheers,

B.E.

I have seen the pin rails mounted slightly higher, level with the top of the gunports. However, your rails look good Jason and I would go with that position.

Cheers,

Maurice

That's a great series of photos Bob, invaluable as a reference work for us lesser mortals playing with pob construction kits.

Your Swan is a thing of beauty.

Regards,

B.E.

Hi Ferit, like Michael (md1400cs) I was alerted to your build when you posted on my Pegasus.
 

I could almost echo word for word what Michael said, your modifications are of a very high standard. I love the way you have replicated the quite complicated sheer lines on the hull and the magnificent single planking job, no second chances there.

I see you refer to yourself as ‘rookie’, if that be the case I think you have a natural talent for ship modelling.
 

Great work on the headrails, beautiful flowing lines, a build to watch I think.
 

Regards,

B.E.

I have this model (unmasted) lying in ordinary, and quietly decaying in the attic for years. I had intentions of modifying the stern and headworks which badly let down the model but the basic hull form is good. Re-working these areas would much improve matters, but would involve some serious scratching. The stick on windows and  garish decoration is tacky, but you get a lot of basic boat for your money. I wasn't impressed by the plastic ships boats.

B.E.

Hi Augie, I like what you've done with the standing rigging, I like what you've done with the yards, I like what you've done on the deck detail as per your last photo, I guess I'm just a fan of your build Augie

Well done.

B.E.

Beautiful precise work Alex, I'm with the others, mistake or not it looks good to my eye, and who's to really say after 500 years.

Regards,

B.E.

Jason, there are different methods of determining the size of anchor cables depending on who you read.

Lees (Masting and Rigging) gives the proportion 0.62 of the diameter of the maimmast.

Lavery (Arming and Fitting) makes reference to a 17th century basis of 1/2"  of circumference for each foot of the ships beam at midships.

Snake had a beam of 30' 6"  equating to 15.25" circ. = 1.9mm diameter at scale.

In respect of Pegasus with a narrower beam of 26' 10" on this basis the cable would work out at 13.4" circ = to 1.69mm diameter.

Using the Lees basis of 0.62 of the mainmast diameter (18⅜”) the cable would work out at 11.39" circ = to 1.43mm diameter.

On your photo the smaller 2mm cable looks more appropriate and does tie in with the beam calculation result.

Cheers,

B.E.

A fine looking model Alistair, with great detail, bodes very well for your forthcoming Fly build.

Cheers,

B.E.

I don't know whether they have been misnamed Jason,  ships often have both. A pair of fenders, just forward of the side steps, and a separate chesstree with the sheave, located further forward along the hull to take the Main Tack.

Check before you do anything drastic.

Cheers,

B.E.

I think you've nailed the artwork Timmo, well done.

Regards,

B.E.

Nice work on the ships wheel Evan, and the replacement stove cowl looks good, if a little tall in relation to the crew figure, to my eye. what scale height does it work out to?

If I remember correctly those Revell crew  figures work at at around a scale 5' 6" which would make it 7 or 8 feet high. Will be interesting to see how it looks in place on the deck.

Cheers,

M.

Nice work on the capping rails Jason, and your replacement fenders look better.

I notice the kit part has a 'sheave' hole in it, is this supposed to be a chesstree rather than a fender? they are similar in form.

Your broadside is looking very smart in the close-up photos.

Regards,

B.E.

What beautiful lines you have created with Alfred, Gary, a wonderful example of the shipwrights art.

Regards,

B.E.