Blue Ensign

Post 84

Completing the masts.

The Pin rails and a driver boom saddle are added to the lower mast sections.

4576a

Fore mast Pin rail, beautifully cut slots for the pins.

4575a

The Pin rail on the Mainmast really needs fitting before adding the lowest  ‘iron’ mast band otherwise it won’t slide up to the correct position.

 

The tops which are traditionally painted black down to the hounds, are now attended to.

I used Vallejo Black/grey for the purpose.

4570a

I love the planking detail Chris has engraved into the tops, I used a slightly thinner mix of paint in this area so as not to obscure the detail.

4579a

There are five iron bands  spaced equally along the Masthead. For these I used 1mm slices from heat shrink tubing. This gives a subtle shade difference to the painted head.

Atop the iron bands are a series of battens designed to protect the rigging from wear.

4581a

Kit provided pieces are of 0.6mm strips which I found a little thin to notch over the bands. I replaced these with some slightly thicker strip which allowed a shallow notch to be cut.

 

There are eight of these on each masthead; a small detail the top ends should be sniped to follow practice.

Steel also notes that; battens should have rounded edges for the rigging to slide down easily.

4603a

Steel also notes that; The afterside of Mizen masts  in ships, and mainmasts in brigs, to be coppered in the wear of the gaff and boom.

An easy addition using copper tape if so motivated.

4604a

4606a

4607a

I now have the overall size of my model version which will require a cover of 30”L x 9” W x 16” H.

I can get this organised while I continue with the build.

 

B.E.

04/06/2025

 

Wonderful stuff you are now producing Chuck, and I think us modellers appreciate the extra mile you go. 

It has been a great experience using your resin blocks and deadeyes, and the other little detailed fittings.

 

Did you decide whether to  produce the Belay pins at 1:64 scale?

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

Post 83

Bowsprit

My eye had been drawn to the Bowsprit as looking a little underweight compared to the Mainmast. My understanding is that Bowsprits are generally the same diameter as the Mainmast (at the Partners).

The Adm plan does seem to show the Bowsprit diameter as being comparable to the Mainmast.

 

As you may expect there are rules, and for Bowsprits of a given gross diameter  a proportional taper is applied at  each quarter along the length to the outer end, and inboard to the heel.

Heel   1^stQ      2^ndQ     3^RDQ   Outer end.

 6/7   60/61    11/12     4/5        5/9

Long story short, having compared information from Steel I decided to use a 8mm dowel reduced to 7mm+ on the lathe, before the proportions were applied.

Between the Head Timbers (Knightheads) I had to accept a degree of compromise, settling for a diameter of 6.6mm. This also involved a little sanding of the Head timbers to allow passage. 

The Bowsprit was tapered to 5.8mm at the step, and 4.7mm at the outer end.

 

I had initially used a 6mm dowel to check the position of the gammoning cleats.

4503a

A Gammoning test line was applied to mark the position.

4556a

I used Syren 0.63mm ø line for the Gammoning which I dyed using Dark Jacobean wood dye. This is something I do for all standing rigging as  I prefer the look to kit supplied black line.

Note: The Gammoning line has twist in it; Starting on the port side each successive turn  goes over the Bowsprit forward, and crosses the previous line aft as it runs thro’ the gammoning slot. The line is completed with frapping turns around the centre and seized off.

4565a

Gammoning completed on the replacement Bowsprit.

The Gammoning cleats are very small; I found that attaching them to double sided tape was sufficient to hold them for a light cleaning up.

4564a

Ramin dowel was used to make the Bowsprit

I used w-o-p  on the Bowsprit followed by a light oak dye concoction to match the masts.

4558a

I am not quite decided how much more detailing of the Bowsprit I will do, it is there primarily for the attachment of the Fore Stay.

 

The next stage is completing the mast detail and onto the shroud rigging.

 

B.E.

02/06/2025

Cheers Guys for your  comments and 'likes'  much appreciated.👍

 

Post 82

Boom and Gaff

I have spent a couple of days looking at the two booms I will include with my model.

An interesting use of terminology here.

What we may generically know as Driver Booms are referred to by Steel as Main Booms in relation to cutters and Sloops.

Again, there are defined proportions relating to Driver/Main Booms.

The Steel tables indicate subtle differences in the taper arrangements between  Driver booms and Main Booms, mainly in relation to the position of the widest diameter, but the differences at  1:64 scale are minimal.

Driver Booms – largest diameter – mid point along the boom

Main Booms  -   largest diameter - Position of the sheet – just inside the Tafferal.

 

The  sizes of booms is confusing, it must be tricky to decide what to apply to the Harpy Kit.

Unfortunately Steel doesn’t have tables relative to Brig Sloops.

The kit Main Boom seems to be based on a 200 ton Brig with a Boom diameter of 10½” – 4mm at scale.

Harpy is a 316 ton vessel, yet a Sloop of 300 tons has a Boom diameter of only 7⅜”-  3mm at scale.

 

There are also defined proportions set out in Steel for Gaffs

Length of Gaffs 5/8 of respective booms, diameter of Gaffs -same as booms.

The kit seems to follow these proportions.

4529a

Both booms were shaped on the lathe using sanding papers.

4540a

4542a

I note that the boom jaws lack iron bands which were common for these items.

I used heat shrink tubing for the purpose, but black card would suffice.

The Gaff

On my build I found the jaws  a tad too small to fit around the mast in the raised position even tho’ the overall mast dimension including the cheeks is the correct diameter.

4554a

Here I have  thinned down the jaws as much as I dare but the fit is not ideal.

4549a

4550a

4551a

Fortunately, on my build the Gaff will be in the lowered postion where the fit is fine.

Had I been rigging the Gaff in the raised position I would  have to re-do the Gaff for a better fit, probably by splitting the jaws and re-attaching with a slightly less tapered boom at the inboard end.

 

B.E

01/06/2025

 

Post 81

A look around Harpy at this six month build stage, a very enjoyable experience overall.

In my search for authenticity, there has  been some frustration with detail queries, and some things still remain a mystery.

Even so, she is shaping up into a fine model, Harpy is a worthy addition to Chris’s  range.

4487a

4488a

4489a

4491a

4492a

4493a

4494a

4495a

4495a

All the hull work bar some minor fittings, is now essentially complete, time to move onto the Masting.

 

B.E.

25/05/2025

Post 80

Rigging the stern davits

I used Syren 0.30mm line, 5/32” Double resin blocks, and 3mm  plastic hooks. 0.1mm line is used for seizing.

 

Chuck has produced an excellent method of block stropping, check out his pdf in the Traders and Dealers section.

 

Quite a tricky business hanging the boat on the tackle hooks, it helps to apply a spot of glue to the ring to keep it in the vertical position.

4466a

The handling during the attachment has rubbed some of the paint from the gunwales, so the boat will have to be removed at some some point for a touch -in.

4481

4471a

4483a

4472a

4473a

Not quite sure yet how to  belay the tackle falls. The kit plan simply shows them secured around the aftermost timberhead which sits against the cabin roof.

 

Shot Garlands

4478a

4476a

The shot garlands have been fitted, I used 2mm bearings rather than the kit supplied plastic versions.

 

Belay pins

Rather than fit the kit supplied brass etch pins I am waiting to see how Chuck's  testing of  1:64 scale pins work out,  I do hope they will be success.

On my Harpy build they won’t  be put under any stress as I’m not fitting the running rigging.

 

Back to the masts…

 

B.E.

27/05/2025

 

Great start David, did you get the Boxwood from Original Marquetry in Bristol? the sizes look familiar.

 

Cheers,

 

B.E.

 

Thank you Chris, Ron, and Mark.

Much of the credit goes to Chris who produced these little gems, the fittings stuff now available just gets better and better.

 

B.E.

She's looking wonderful,  excellent  work Chris, well done.

 

B.E.

Very nice work, well done. 👍

 

B.E.

Post 79

18’ Cutter

I had already painted the interior hull and applied a coat of Vallejo Black/Grey to the outer hull.

This small cutter will be suspended from the stern davits, which will provide interest and add the opportunity to add tackles to the davits.

Unlike the 22’ cutter the  footwaling is incorporated in the resin moulding.

4297sc

Works very well at this scale.

 

The inboard fittings are cut from 0.6mm Pear and are therefore very delicate.

4408a

The gratings are beautifully cut but won’t stand even the lightest pressure without risk of breakage. I did find it necessary to add a strip beneath the fore grating which was showing signs of splitting as I teased it into position. I also added a lateral support beneath the sternsheet thwart.

Even so, these fittings are streets ahead of the previous versions in brass etch.

4409a

The sternsheets are another snap risk area.

To fit these I found it helped to slightly flex the hull outwards whilst  softly easing the sheets into place, so the notches aligned with the frames.

4420b

The Bow thwarts present another issue of getting a close formation to the round of the hull. I found it easier to remove the fore side pieces and fit the thwart first.

 

As with the larger cutter I added the Mast  clamp and rudder hanging details, altho’ the rudder won’t be in place with the boat on the stern davits.

4446

Fitting the pintles and gudgeons was quite tricky as very tiny eyelets and pins are required, the process not helped by fat fingers and dodgy eyes.

The oars for the cutter are of the style I would expect to see, so it is a puzzlement why the oars for the larger cutter, that I replaced, differed in style.

4414a

In a raw state here. A slight round is required on the shafts and the blades require thinning down.

4431a

4436a

4457a

4458a

4460a

4461a

4465a

I very much like these Resin boats, and altho’ we are saved the the effort of planking tiny hulls there is still a lot of work to do to get a good finish.

I think the all-wood versions still have a place for those who like the challenge, and satisfaction is certainly to be had from successfully completing one of these mini projects.

 

B.E.

25/05/2025

 

 

Post 78

Cutters 18’ and 22’

These are the new resin hulled version with Pearwood fittings.

Nicely formed with Lapstrake planking, detailed framing, mast steps, and rowlocks set-up for single banked rowing.

The colour scheme needs to be decided first, something that  co-ordinates with the main ship scheme.

For the outer hull colour I used Vallejo White/grey, and for the Gunwales Black/grey. I think this gives a more scale effect.

For the inner hull I used a combination of oche brown shade mixtures until I got a look I liked. I then applied a wash of Dark Brown.

4297a

This picked up the inner Lapstrake planking.

I applied the same scheme to both cutters.

The Pearwood fittings I left bright just treated with w-o-p.

 

22’ Cutter

Inserting the Pearwood fittings, takes a little care, they are quite delicate, particularly the stern sheets.

They are accurately cut  to fit around the  hull ribs  but light pressure only should be used to fit into place.

 I used spots of cyano.

4308a

One thing I did note ; there does not seem to be a laser cut thwart for the aftermost position. A minor issue as one is easily cut from the laser fret.

Adding detail

Adding the mast clamps to the thwarts is a small improvement, easily done using black card.

4301a

Using a  stick helps align the  thwart with the mast step.

4309a

I also like to add lifting rings to the keelson.

4317a

At this scale it is feasible to add the rudder hanging ironware to the Cutter stern. This comprises a long  pintle, and  Gudgeon ring. Fiddly, but it’s stuff I like to do.

4316a

This particular arrangement is designed for quick attachment/ removal of the rudder.

 

 

The set-up for rowing is three pairs of offset rowlocks which would suggest single banked rowing positions. The oar lengths would suggest  double banked rowing, so with this arrangement there would presumably be one rower per thwart, alternating port and starboard.

I’m not too keen on the provided oars for the 22’ cutter, the blade looks too short and paddle like for my taste.

4305a

The oar style supplied with Indy looks more the shape to my eye and fortunately I had some spares I could utilise.

 

Boat cradles are supplied (for the 18’ cutter) but will fit the 22’ cutter. If the larger cutter is to be stored on deck, the cradles need raising a little to allow the boat keel to clear the coamings. I added 2x2mm Pearwood strip to the bottom of the cradles.

4324a

I always find fitting cradles a tricky exercise, getting them central to the deck, square, and  correctly spaced to fit the hull. It would be easier to glue the hull to the cradles before fitting, but I prefer not to do that.

4325a

4327a

4328a

Nice to see that my scale figure sits perfectly in the sternsheets.

4331a

4332a

Some paintwork tidying is still required, but I’ll attend to that in conjunction with the 18’ Cutter

 

B.E.

18/05/2025

 

 

Post 77

Strops, chains, and plates. – Part three

With new upper chain links made I can proceed with the fitting.

4266a

Each one was trial fitted to check the  drop before  pinning to the hull.

4265a

A tiresome business but the end result at least complies with the Adm./kit plans, rather than the less convincing look that would follow had I used all the provided parts as is.

 

Topmast and T’gallant Backstays

I won’t be rigging these but the channel deadeyes will be in place. The kit uses 5mm ø deadeyes for the lower shrouds and 3mm deadeyes for the Topmast and T’gallant backstays.

Steel indicates a thimble set-up for the T’gallant  Backstays but the ADm plan shows deadeyes in place.

4272a

I have opted to use 4mm deadeyes for the Topmasts, and 3mm for the T’gallants. Although not exactly to scale this reflects the reduction in size of the upper masts rigging line.

4271a

As with the shrouds I has to re-make the  upper chain link to bring the  lower link to the correct level.

These are tiny links which took a few attempts to get right, or replace those that just on completion pinged off into the ether.

An exercise in frustration.

4273a

4274a

4275a

4277a

I think a glass of Merlot is required before I tackle the Port side.

 

Cheers,🍷

 

B.E.

12/05/2025

Post 76

Strops, chains, and plates. – Part two

004

As I noted in Post 73, if I use the deadeye sets as issued the Preventer plates are thrown too far down on the Wale. They should be as per the plan as above.

4226a

I have completed the lower mast Deadeye strop fixing using the replacement Resin Deadeyes.

 

Stropping the Deadeyes does inevitably mar the blackening of the strops, but a test of the resin deadeye in the blackening fluid has no adverse effect. Once fitted the combination is re- dipped in the blackening.

 

The usual approach would be to make up the sets on the model, Upper link attached to the Deadeye strop, followed by the Lower link, thro’ which the Preventer plate would be pinned.

The lower fixing of the Preventer plate should sit around half way down the wale, with the lower chain link sitting just above the wale top.

 

I found this is not the case, so a tricky job ensues, one that I don’t particularly relish.

My approach will be to use Brass wire (0.5mm ø) to represent the upper chain link. It would prove difficult to modify the kit link because of thicker sections at the top and bottom.

4237a

I first need to make a jig to form the links. There is an excellent ‘how to’ in Volume 11 of  The ffm BY David Antscherl.

4238a

In reality the lengths of the upper links vary to accommodate the increasing angles of the aftermost shrouds.

The jig allows the  size to be adjusted as required, altho’ on Harpy the effect is minimal.

4242a

Strictly speaking the links should be closed but without open slots along the Channel fronts to insert completed strop and chain units, it becomes tricky.

0017

This test  link shows the correct position of the Preventer Plate.

4253a

The link at 8mm in length is 3mm less than the provided kit link.

 

With the masts in place I firstly need to mark the line of the shrouds. The kit shrouds are of 1mm ø black line, but I will be using 0.88mm ø Syren rigging line, which is spot on for scale for the lower shrouds.

I find provided black kit line too stark for my taste and my approach is to use natural line dyed with Dark Jacobean oak wood stain to represent the standing rigging.

4249a

Kit line used to mark the positions of the lower Preventer Plate bolt.

I think I can now proceed.

 

 

B.E.

10/05/2025

 

Sound advice Chris, the only thing ca is of use for in rigging is forming needle points on lines to assist feeding thro' sheave holes, and sealing the  cut ends of polyester line.

 

Cheers,

B.E.

18 hours ago, dvm27 said:

Your model is very lovely so far. Your concept of rigging the lower yards only with the top masts lowered and mostly derigged is reminiscent of illustrations I’ve seen off these ships in their winter configurations.

 

Perhaps consider not gluing in the masts. Once you’ve added the shrouds, stays and back stays they are almost impossible to move but minor adjustments may be made by adjusting the standing rigging (just like the real vessel).

Thank you Greg,

 My thought is to rig her without yards, and with the Topmasts in the lowered position. I will have to make the Topmasts from square stock with the heel sheaves in place. Alternatively I could store the Topmasts on the Gallows.

This is all about space saving.

 

I do prefer to build up the mast sections on the model rather than glue all the sections together before fitting, and I tend to glue as little as possible on my models including the masts. Depending on the mast fit I sometimes apply the merest spot of pva, sufficient to hold the mast square, but with the bond easily broken with a twist.

 

I’m always thinking I may want to remove this one day.

 

Regards,

 

B.E.

Post 75

Masts (Part 2)

Mast Hoops

There are twelve iron hoops supporting the Main mast, alternating between under and over the Front Fish.

The Foremast has ten hoops but they don’t uniformly alternate, six sit above the front fish and four beneath.

There are no wooldings involved with the Harpy build.

 

The kit provides black card for the purpose of Hoop making and  a scale breadth of 1.5mm is indicated.

This agrees with the sizes given by Steel.

Breadth – 4” - 4½” breadth, ½” - ⅝” thick.

 

Whilst I often use  slices of  heat shrink tubing for hoops I will be using the card option which will better conform to the profile around cheeks and Fish.

4203a

I fit the hoops that fit beneath the Fish first, here on the Fore mast.

4208a

I use a template to mark the hoop positions down the mast.

4207a

Fitting the hoops is  a bit fiddly, care has to be taken to remove any glue  spread onto the mast.

4213a

4214a

4215a

4216a

I have left the hoops black as a contrast but in reality they would probably have been painted along with the masts by the early 19^thcentury.

Bolsters

These are provided as short sections of 2x2mm square stock.

In my view they are a tad on the short side as a means of  protecting the shrouds, particularly if the shrouds are to be properly served.

4221a

I replaced the kit parts with quarter rounded 2x2.5mm  stuff. This also overhangs the trestletrees by a fraction as it should.

I’m leaving the masts for a while as my supplies of Resin deadeyes have arrived and I’m  keen to resolve the looming problem of over-long links, which has been on my mind since Post 73.

 

B.E.

08/05/2025

 

The innovation of Resin and 3d printing have been a game changer in ship modelling, a much higher level of accuracy and realism in fittings, particularly at smaller scales. Chris and Chuck have been prime leaders in this field and I'm a confirmed fan of their work.

 

B.E.

A pleasant surprise.

My supply of resin deadeyes and blocks arrived today, a mere seven days from order to door. Thanks Chuck, excellent service.

0012

Swiss Pear Resin versions from Chuck’s Syren range.

 

I am very pleased with these, the detail is way beyond the usual kit blocks. Note the shaping of the ‘eyes’ in the deadeyes, and the well formed sheaves and strop grooves in the blocks.

0014

3mm rigging hooks

I also  like these black plastic hooks, saves all that blackening of brass versions.

 

I note that Chuck is contemplating making a 3/16”  scale version of Resin Belay pins that should suit a 1:64 scale model.

I do hope this comes to pass, they would be a nicer option than the rather two-dimensional brass etch versions.

 

Back to the masts.

 

B.E.

07/05/2025

   

 

 

 

 

 

Well done Mark, she looks  very impressive. a wonderful display model.

 

B.E.

Fore and Main Masts. (Part 1)

I am working these as per the kit dimensions using 8mm Ramin dowel.

The trickiest part is forming the 5mm square mastheads from dowel.

I do this  by marking the square area on the dowel top, lining along for the required length, and filing using 120 grade sandpaper glued to a broad stick.

I gauge by eye with constant  measurement and square checks.

4138a

 I initially  pare down to around 5.5mm before checking with the cross trees. It is then a case of reduction by degrees whilst maintaining the square profile.

4142a

The sides of the stick are then sanded flat to accommodate the Cheeks.

4143a

I use Tamiya tape to define the  area to take the cheeks, again careful use of a broad sanding stick is all that is required with constant checking to ensure squareness.

4161a

The masts were coated with w-o-p, and I painted the Pearwood cheeks to better tone with the Ramin Masts. I then use a water based oche tinted wood dye to  even out the colour tone.

 

The laser cut Trestle trees in Pearwood slot together cleanly and firmly.

4164a

I very much like the Mast tops, beautifully cut and detailed, a joy to work with.

 

Regardless of mast rake the tops should be level to the waterline.

4176a

4179a

4183a

4188a

It seems to take me ages to ensure the Mast tops sit square and level, the final adjustments being made after gluing but before it sets.

4191a

Once the mast tops are firmly fixed, the  Bibs and  Front fish are added.

 

B.E.

06/05/2025

 

Post 73

Strops, chains, and plates.

I prefer to chemically blacken ‘ironwork’ rather than paint it, as I think it gives a subtle and more realistic representation.

4105a

It is more time consuming, and there are several parts that make up the strops and chain plate combinations.

4112a

I test the assembled shroud combinations along the Channels to gauge where they fall on the Wale.

The positions shown on the plan accord with those on the Adm plan.

4111a

I may be missing something but I seem to have a potential problem; the lower link falls  awkwardly right on the top edge of the wale, and the preventer plate sits too low on the wale.

004

Compared to the Plan the lower chain (pe20) seems over-long which throws the Preventer plate (pe21) too low.

 

I have come across this issue on previous models where the answer is to adjust the upper chain link to bring the lower link and preventer plate to their correct placing, but a smaller lower link would be preferable.

This does however involve a fair bit of faffing around to get the correct size.

 

I am not in a position to fit the deadeyes at this stage as I decided to invest in resin versions in Swiss Pear colour, the latest innovation from Chuck’s Syren company.

The basic kit blocks  and Deadeyes are ok but lack the detail of what is now available. They also need sorting to weed out those with mis-cut holes etc;

 

I’ve not picked up any indication of the need for adjustment, so I’m not sure what’s going on here, the wale is in the correct position as are the channels.

 

B.E.

02/05/2025

 

Post 72

Channels and Timberheads.

These are the last main features to add to the hull exterior.

4084a

4085a

Channels and Timberheads slot seamlessly into place.

 

Side steps.

4102a

Annoying but necessary little beggars these, two tiny pieces comprising a tread and support glued together at right angles, five required each side. Fortunately the locations are engraved on the top sides which helps with this exercise.

With the use of laser cutters, shape and even a design is included on items that would prove very difficult to produce by hand accurately at this scale.

4079a

The  Bow bollards (275) referred to in the manual as  Gunwale bow timbers sit either side of the Bowsprit. They are a less fancy version of the Knightheads that support the Bowsprit.

These need  bevelling on their inboard faces to run parallel to the Bowsprit.

I have made up some test  masts and spars to gauge the overall size were I to detail the lower masts and standing rigging.

4068a

These are the full length Masts, Bowsprit, and Driver boom, as per the plans. How they relate to Steel I haven’t checked at this point.

4070a

The masts are in Walnut but I prefer Ramin for lower masts.

4090a

This is the space profile compared to Sphinx, I  think I can accommodate her with lower rigging in place but without the yards.

Decision made.

 

B.E.

30/04/2025

Congratulations ECK,  15 weeks from keel to completion, Chris is going to have to up his output to keep pace with your  build rate.😉

She looks a fine model, almost tempts me to fully rig her.

 

B.E.

Post 71

Completion of first stage.

Five months into this build and time for a long overdue workshop GTU, and some stage photos.

 

4042a

4041a

4044a

4046a

4048a

4049

4053a

4056a

4061

4057a

4054a

I now need to decide where I’m going with this build.

I completed my previous two builds ‘Navy Board’ Style with stump masts, but I am leaning  towards going a little further with Harpy.

My initial thoughts are to rig her with lower masts and standing rigging in place but without yards.

011a

I did this with my model of Victory.

I quite like this set-up on models and it has the advantage of space saving.

 

With Harpy, extending the build time, and deferring any concerns of what to do next are also a factor, and I fancy doing some rigging again.

I will start with a mock-up to gauge the overall space requirements, and then, once Mrs W has left the premises, wander around the house looking where it will fit in.

 

A plan of sorts.

 

B.E.

28/04/2025