Blue Ensign

Hi Peter,

On the model the Bumkins are forced into that position by the absence of a 'False' Rail atop the Main Rail. The Bumkins should sit in a cut out on the False Rail, secured by a  capsquare.

I re-made the bumkins and imparted a slight downward curve in them whIch serves to reduce the sharp downward  angle you otherwise get.

Glad to see you're back on the build, the rigging is coming along very nicely.

B.E.

There is a useful book for those building Warrior - Building a Working Model Warship  (HMSWarrior 1860) by William Mowell.

Available from the HMS Warrior Trust.

http://www.hmswarrior.org/supportus/mailorder

B.E.

The stern post face should really be coppered. One solution is to use self adhesive copper tape scored to the plate size and marked with one of those little wheels that simulate nail heads. Being very thin it doesn't show much of an edge, as in practice the copper plates were bent around the stern post and lipped over the plates that run down the stern post not just butted to the adjacent plates.

I did this when I coppered my schooner Pickle. 

Copper tape is also useful to cover the recesses in the rudder where the pintles fit.

Cheers,

B.E.

Classic elegance Christian, she looks beautiful

B.E.

Hi Bob, my false keel was if anything a little undersized. It should be 4" deep - at scale 1.58mm,  but I went with around 1mm. which looked ok to my eye.

I have had a look at the dimensions given for Bellona (AotS series book) and this is 7" deep - 2.78mm at 1:72 scale. The False keel will need to be chamfered down towards the fore end to meet the gripe of the stempost, that is the curved bit at the bottom that fits against the keel.

I think you may need to trial a depth of timber to suit Vanguard, you can always laminate some of the strips you have to build up a depth, and the lengths can always be joined or scarphed if you're up for it.

B.E.

Love what you've done with the Try-works John, a great feature.

B.E.

Nice job with the decorative strips Michael, I'm pleased you are enjoying the Mill. Thank you for your very generous words about my use of the Mill, but like you I'm very much a beginner.

However, I think it is useful to show pics of what we do on the Mill, even at our superficial level it gives a lead to others who may be just starting.

Good idea of yours to use  the balsa support for the strip whilst milling.

Cheers,

B.E.

Hi Bob,  a fine job you've done on the coppering.

Not much can be seen of the false keel with the model the right way up, but basically it was a strip of wood nailed to the bottom of the keel to protect the copper in the event of the keel grounding.

I fitted one to my Pegasus.

It was just a thin strip of  timber slightly narrower than the keel width ca'd to the  bottom of the keel. I didn't go to the trouble of scarph jointing the false keel but just used a continuous strip.

It obviously needs to be done whilst the model can be inverted.

Cheers,

B.E.

Nice job on the first planking Richard; I'm interested to see your gunport cutting thro' to completion and hear your views on the plank/cut method compared to using the provided gunport patterns.

B.E.

You surely have moved along since I last looked in Bob, very nice progress, those ports and inboard planking looks excellent.

B.E.

Hi Jason, nice work on that serving and stropping.

The Burton Pendants were important bits of kit used to attach tackles for heavy lifting and ideally they should go over the masthead before the shrouds are rigged.

As far as gluing the masts in place I tend to only apply a small smear of glue, which is good enough to hold in normal handling but in the event of a catastrophe I can ultimately twist them out. This has happened to me in the past.

As far as bunt and leech line blocks are concerned either on the yard or as feeds beneath the top for the lines, my view is even without sails they should be fitted, even if the actual lines are omitted.

A lot of the running rigging was taken down with the sails, but for those to wish to show it a common practice is to knot the bunts and leech lines which would otherwise be attached to the sail cringles, where they pass thro' the yard blocks and then having passed thro' the feed blocks belay them at the  appropriate point.

That's what I intend to do on my Pegasus.

I can relate to what you say about becoming obsessive about the rigging detail I seem to be sucumbing to that somewhat as well.

Cheers,

B.E.

That’s a given Danny, I was obviously referring to the open ports, which on the model are the ‘show’ ports.

The question of 'run in' and secured or secured 'side on' is interesting given the small space on a Swan, particularly in relation to those adjacent to the Galley Stove and those within the partitioned Captains bed space and Coach. The latter is not an issue with Kingfisher and other 14 gunners as the ports did not house a gun.

B.E.

I got my replacements from RB Models.

Here's their website and also one for Radek ship models.

http://www.rbmodel.com/index.php?action=products&group=011

http://www.radekshipmodels.cz/en/list-of-kits-and-accessories/accessory---armoury

When you've worked out the scale length of your guns, you might just find suitable replacements.

Cheers,

B.E.

Beautiful work on the head Matti

if you can work out the scale length of the guns you may find some aftermarket brass ones that would suit, or be close enough.

That's what I did for the replacement guns on Pegasus as the supplied originals were much too big.

Cheers,

B.E.

Hi Remco,

 

A word about the way you've rigged the guns (excellent seizings etc BTW) - a gun that is "run out" wouldn't have the side tackles frapped, rather coiled beside the gun ready to fire. The frapped tackles are used when it's in the Stowed position.

 

  Danny

I’m not entirely sure that that is the case. There were different levels of securing the guns, and there would no doubt be differences between the heavy lower deck guns with port lids in place and lighter open deck guns where run out and secured would be an option.

This is in fact shown in Seamanship in the age of Sail (John Harland) which includes a chapter on securing the guns. He makes the point that the Upper deck guns were ordinarily secured in the ‘run out’ position and shows the side tackles frapped.

On a small vessel like a sixth rate with six pounders, I would suggest that 'run out' with tompions in place would have been logically applicable.

B.E.

That's a fine present Michael, and one I think you will make great use of, did you receive the milling bits as well? the standard Proxxon set is 1mm 2mm and 3mm bits, but they also do a smaller range in 0.6mm 0.8mm.

B.E.

Thanks Dan, glad you like it

B.E.

Love everything about your work Ron

B.E.

Good explanations and fine work Mike, well done

B.E.

Nice start Richard, looking forward to seeing how this one develops.

B.E.

mdf is Medium Density fibreboard, universally known as mdf.

B.E.

The false keel and bulkheads on my Amati Pegasus kit were of mdf. I much prefer it to the alternative use of plywood for these parts.

No problem in gluing it and it cleans up quite nicely.

B.E.

Hi Jason,

My approach will be to fit the lower masts and then the shrouds before I add the topmasts and caps. I will make a 'mock up' of the Masthead on which to form the shrouds, and then transfer them to the actual model, less tiring that way.

I would leave the  Mast top rails until much later, on many models there are lines that have to be worked around the tops, or even belayed there, and those rails tend to be fairly fragile.

Cheers,

B.E.

Love that last series of photo's Ron, what a beautiful model she is.

B.E.

Looks superb Gary, but I'm not sure about those curved planks; do you intend to fit guns to all the ports or  just a selected few? I can understand you not wanting to cover up all that wonderful framing work, but perhaps sections of proper planking where the guns are would be more in keeping with your excellent build detail.

Regards,

B.E.