Blue Ensign

My understanding is that In the days before the driver boom the Ensign was routinely worn on the staff when at sea, as the Mizen lateen yard was not inhibited by its presence. With the introduction of the driver boom the Ensign was worn at the Gaff when at sea, but an Ensign staff was used when in port or at anchor. Many Navy Board style models do not show the fixings but were I intending to fully mast and rig 'Indy' as a bare stick model, I would have fitted the Ensign to the staff. Regards, B.E.

Post One Hundred and Sixty-four. Countdown to completion – still counting I am still fretting about the inclusion of fittings for an Ensign staff. The kit doesn’t include the fittings and few contemporary models show them. I don’t have any specific evidence for the type used on ‘Indy’, but she would certainly have had them. I lean towards a more substantial set-up than a simple block and cap-square fixed to the tafferal, given her origin as a Sixty-four. 2154 2155 This is the set-up on Victory and the double knee fixing between the flag lockers would transfer well to the Indy. A block sits atop the standards, recessed for the staff and is fitted with a cap-square. A corresponding fitting (the step) to take the heel of the staff sits between the standards on the deck. Nothing to be lost by having a play around and using bits of Boxwood, I cobbled together an Ensign support for ‘Indy’. 4183 Fairly straightforward, two standards and a top cut out on the scroll saw, the trickiest part cutting the mortises to fit over the standard tops. 4184 A simple jig aids the assembly. 4204 The completed item, the Cap-square made from a piece of brass fret will be blackened before fitting. 4190 4197 4199 Steel conveniently gives the sizes of Ensign staffs by rate. For a Sixty-four = 38’ x 6¼” ø @ scale 181mm x 2.5mm ø 50 gun = 36’ x 6” ø @ scale 171.5mm x 2.4mm ø 44 gun = 35’ x 5⅝” ø @ scale 166.7mm x 2.2mm ø 4195 4196 There is very little difference at scale, I used 3mm dowel for the staff and will adjust the length to suit my eye. The staff will require a degree of taper and the fitting of a truck. A satisfying days’ work - I’m inclined to keep it. ☺️ B.E. 02/04/2024

Post One Hundred and Sixty-three. Countdown to completion - the final stages. This is the stage where I attend to all those little outstanding things, look through all the laser sheets and ask myself what the hell is that for, should I have fitted it? It is surprising how long it takes to rig the stanchion and Hammock crane lines. 4164 4162 4163 4166 I use Syren 0.45mm ø natural line. I seem to recall from somewhere that tarred line was dispensed with as it tended to mark the hammocks. 4165 4167 I decided to fit the Fo’csle with stanchions; I think they may well have been fitted, and it balances well with the rest of the model. I used additional eyebolts to secure the ends of the lines. I had modified the gunport lanyards for the lower ports to a double arrangement on the Port side, but the starboard side remained to be done. 4152 4168 Even tho’ it is a bit of a pain to do, I couldn’t leave odd sides. Boomkins. These less than attractive booms used to spread the Fore tack invariably cause me trouble. In my build they didn’t easily meet the angle of the cap square that secures them as they cross the Main Rail of the head, and the line was also inhibited by the position of the seats of ease which required a little adjustment. 4159 4160 4174 I also added the capsquares, represented by black card strips. B.E. 01/04/2024

Very impressive brass work Nils, and your problem solving skills are second to none. Nice progress. B.E.

Post One Hundred and Sixty-two. Woolding the masts The kit indicates use of 0.5mmø line throughout. According to Steel the wooldings for the Fore and Mainmasts are of 3” circ line, and that for the Mizen 2½” circ. This equates to 0.37mm and 0.31mm scale diameters. I used 0.3mm and 0.4mm cotton line from Modellbau Takelgarn in Germany. Wooldings are generally 12” deep which scales to 4.76mm. The method of applying as shown on the kit plans is the recognised approach to take, and will be familiar to readers of R.C. Anderson’s wordy but excellent book The Rigging of Ships in the days of the Spritsail Topmast 1600-1720 I wouldn’t be without it. 4132 4133 The line was dyed using Colron Jacobean Dark Oak wood dye which gives a less black effect than commercial black rigging line. The final touch is adding the wooden hoops that contain the woolding. 4140 These are simply made using very thin strips cut from a Manilla folder. 4137 4138 4148 Nearly there! and with great timing the the display case arrived yesterday. B.E. 28/03/2024.

Thankyou Kevin, Bug, and Rusty, your words are much appreciated. @ Bug - That Chris Watton has a lot to answer for, I dread seeing the next irresistible model to emerge from The Forest of Dean, I’m already struggling to find a suitable space for ‘Indy’ Cheers, B.E.

Thank you Jason, enjoy your Pinnace, it's a great little kit. Post One Hundred and Sixty-one. Building the 32’ Pinnace (Part four) At this point I couldn’t resist the urge to see how the Pinnace would look onboard ‘Indy’. 4108 4112 Temporarily placed in the suggested position on the skid beams. 4113 4117 The kit provides a set of oars in laser cut Pear. These benefit from a little fettlin’ beyond char removal. The blades should be thinned down toward the outer end, and the shank rounded a little at the bottom third leaving the upper two thirds square to represent the loom. 4121 4123 4127 4128 4106 4109 I think a spot of woolding is up next. B.E. 26/03/2024

Post One Hundred and Sixty. Building the 32’ Pinnace (Part Three) Getting the correct thwart levels and height is a critical part of assembly. It is important to get the thwarts all square across the boat. 4038 When fitting the thwarts it is advisable not to exert even light pressure on the centres of the thwarts, particularly those with the mast holes in them. The final tricky part is fitting the gunwales. These delicate parts are pre-cut and include the thole pin fittings. 4041 I decided to fit the gunwales as provided, complete with thole pin fittings for eight double banked rowing stations. I know all the arguments about Pinnaces being single banked to accord with historical custom and practice, and that boats of 32’ were 10 oared, and even that traditionally Pinnaces had a centre board running between the thwarts. There are more than a few difficulties involved in making a diversion from the kit to reflect the above, and as with the smaller Pinnace on Sphinx, after long consideration I decided that leaving well alone was the best course. 4044 No matter, it is a very fine boat to display with Indy. Chris has put a lot of thought into the design of these boats, and the fine detail is the best around at this scale. 4055 The wale is next fitted and does require a degree of edge bending to conform to the line as it rounds the bow. 4048 4045 The lower hull has been painted in Ivory to provide a contrast with the ‘bright’ timbers up to the wale. Painting these small boats requires careful masking but the tyranny of the macro w-i-p photos required several goes to improve the lines to a point I found acceptable. 4103 Vallejo blue/grey is used to decorate the top strake and transom, and w-o-p is applied to the bare wood. 4104 The rudder is fitted with the modified quick release arrangement common on these boats. 4097 Making these small boats provides hours of fun and frustration in equal measure. They are absorbing little projects that I enjoy doing despite the frustrations at times. Just the finishing touches to add now. B.E. 25/03/2024

Fabulous set of photo's Daniel, this is one classy build, that holds little fear of the macro lens. B.E.

Thank you Giulio, apart from the Capt. included on the Quarterdeck of the finished model, the others were assembled from various bits of body parts from various sources, completed with modelling clay. The Capt. is a Mantua white metal figure. Some of the figures are too rough to include on a finished model but they serve as scale markers. B.E.

Thanks Nils, I've built six of these boats without any problems when removing the frames, but with this one the planking separated in sections, no doubt due to deficiencies in my gluing. All sorted now. B.E.

As you say Allan it is a kit limitation; the keelson, such as it is, sits below the footwaling. Modification would entail messing with the provided part - a step too far given that little of it will be seen once the thwarts are in place. B.E.

Post One Hundred and Fifty- nine. Building the 32’ Pinnace (Part Two) Freed from its building frame and the centres removed the process of fitting out can begin. I have always been amazed that twisting away the mdf centres leaves the hull intact with little trace of their removal…. But not this time; - the planking partly disassembled, requiring careful re-fitting and use of diluted pva on the inside to stabilise the hull. How this will impact on the build remains to be seen, but it may be necessary to paint the inner bulwarks. 4008 I made a Styrene foam cradle to support the hull whilst attempting to clean up the inside. I used a combination of micro chisels, pen sander, and sheets to remove the glue adhesions and rough surfaces. This is quite a fraught operation and needed careful handling. I take notice of where areas will be covered by the footwaling, fore deck, benches and thwarts, and make pragmatic decisions how far to take the cleaning up in these areas, against risk of further damage. 4007 I wasn’t too keen on the set-up at the stern, so I installed a stern post. I dislike the brass etched rudder facings, supplied with these kits, convenient as they may be. The wooden rudder core was faced with 0.6mm pear and then sanded down to shape. The hanging arrangement will be modified to reflect the true set-up. 4020 Unlike my previous experience of Vanguard boats the Pinnace has Pearwood gratings and footwaling which I like. More convenient and natural looking than the brass etched versions which require painting and sticking with ca. At this stage there are a few additions one can make to the boats to add realism. Lifting ringbolts to the footwaling, and mast steps as shown in the above photo. 4016 I divert from the kit when it comes to fitting the thwart supports, I leave them extended to the stern to support the sternsheet benches. 4017 The benches are provided as a unit including the aftermost thwart. 4025 I prefer to cut this away, modify the benches and add the thwart as a separate item. I have added a panel below the aft seat which will double up as a compartment. When it comes to the cox’n seat there is a slight issue; a grating is provided, but it sits far too high to be a practical platform for the Cox’n ‘s feet. 4032 It is prevented going lower by a ledge forming part of the keel set-up. Careful paring away of this incumbrance allows the grating to sit at a more realistic level. A minor point maybe but the detail devil in me wouldn’t let it go. 4037 The bow platform comes as a pre-cut item which wasn’t a good fit on my build no doubt because of my failings. Fortunately, there is plenty of fret to re-make these items. 4028 Still very much w-i-p and a lot yet to do. B.E. 21/03/2024

That fourth. photo gives a great impression of the mass of rigging involved with a square rigged sailing vessel. Nicely done Kevin.👍 B.E.

Thanks for the links Allan, I agree the convention for Pinnaces was for a single banked set-up with the thole pins off-set port and starboard. There is 1:48 scale drawing of a 32’ Pinnace in the AotS book Diana which also shows a bench board running down the centre between the thwarts. This feature also shows on the Adm drawings. I will look to at least modifying the thole pin set-up on the kit Pinnace. B.E.

Post One Hundred and Fifty- eight. Building the 32’ Pinnace (Part One) This is the one boat example that I may include on the skids of my Indy. I think the Pinnace is the nicest looking boat type and my go to for display on a ship. I have built an example of every boat type in the Vanguard range, and my detailed logs are elsewhere on MSW, most recently on my Sphinx log. My approach in building the Pinnace will be as previously recorded, so I’ll include less detail with this log. There are a few areas of approach to building these bijou boats that may be of use to others. Setting up the frames. These are delicate parts and I like to protect the framing, and I add support pieces to protect the bow and stern. 3981 These slotted strips protect the very delicate stem by avoiding the risk of flex when fitting the first strakes. 3979 At the stern the transom is secured square. 3982 This is a weak part and support boards are added to reduce any risk of flex during fairing or attaching the planking strakes. The planking strips are nominally 2mm x 0.8mm and as I found with the Sphinx Pinnace, they have very little excess in length to accommodate edge bending which applies very near the bow end. 3984 Both lateral and edge bending and also a degree of taper is required to maintain the flow of planking. These features were applied once the first plank had been installed. 3988 The first four planks fit into the stem rabbet, followed by the addition of the Garboard plank. For the Garboard I used a wider 3mm strip. 3993 Planking continues to completion. The final spiled plank that sits below the round of the hull is traced onto Tamiya tape and cut out of the 0.8mm Pear fret. 3998 3999 Three days’ work and the planking is completed, albeit still in a rough state. This will be cleaned up before moving onto the next stage. B.E. 16/03/2024

Post One Hundred and Fifty- seven Mast Making. Starting with the Mainmast:- For the reduced height masts I firstly need to work out the relative positions of the wooldings, iron bands, and the point where the side cheeks and front fish terminate. 3967 I replaced the Pear laser cut cheeks and fish with Boxwood versions to better match the Ramin masts. The iron bands need to be fitted before the cheeks are put into place. With a 12mm ø mast my go to use of heat shrink tubing will not work, so it’s back to thin strips of black card. Once the cheeks are fitted the remaining iron bands need to be applied, they sit beneath the Front fish. I work the bands so that the join will also be beneath the Fish. 3970 The Fish is then fitted 3972 3973 3974 3976 3977 The saddle for the Driver Boom was also replaced with a Boxwood version. 3978 3971 The woolding remains to be done, but I am out of the correct line sizes. B.E. 12/03/2024

Nice work on those linings👍 B.E.

Ah, but where did they get them from😉 B.E.

Post One Hundred and Fifty- six Bits and pieces From this point on the comforting crutch of the glossy manual has ended. There are many small fittings to add and in this session I will mainly be referring to Plans 5 and 9. Working from in to out there is brass wire(0.8mmø) to be inserted thro the faces of the skid beams across the waist (plan5)- shown as belay pins on (Plan 9). 3955 The arrangement seems to have been taken from that of the Victory where one rigging source indicates that the triple aft three relate to the belay of the Staysail sheets and those on the second from forward beam for the Main Topmast Stunsail downhauls. Fortunately for me this has no practical application. 3946 The inner guide rope stanchions (PE59) are fitted along the waist gangboards followed by a wooden rail (2X1mm Pear) atop the inner hammock crane arms, the fit into the brass etched crutches is perfect. I have diverted from the plan by adding iron stanchions between the timberheads around the Fo’csle. 3953 Not provided in the kit I used spare items from the Sphinx kit- a slightly shorter stanchion. It seemed reasonable to me that given the low height of the rails, stanchions would have been fitted. The kit provides etched versions of the belay pins, they are a mere 8mm in length, and barely 0.8mm in width, but still have a visible shape, and I think they look quite good at the scale. 3947 3956 Blackened to give them some tooth and painted a bare wood colour I added a few to the pin rails for effect. 3949 There are quite a few eyebolts to add along the channels together with the iron work for the Main studding booms. I dare say I will find other little additions as I continue to re-check the plans but for now I am moving onto dressing the stump masts. B.E. 10/03/2024

Thankyou Yves, the drawings in the AoTS Bellona provide a good guide, and the given anchor dimensions for a Seventy-four are taken from Steele. If your anchors match the scale the arrangement looks ok to my eye, at least on paper. 'Indy' is more problematic, ideally the anchor arm should fit between the first and second deadeyes, to bring it as close to the hull as possible, but there is no room. This accords with the Adm plan. The aft bower is easier as it will fit as per the Bellona drawing. Victory had a different arrangement. 1834 Here, Billboards and linings are dispensed with and the anchor fluke sits in a heavy shoe. How they manipulated that 81cwt lump of iron into position without marring that pristine paintwork I can only wonder at.🤔 These of course are replicas. B.E.

Thank you Bug, glad to see work has restarted on your Pegasus.👍 Post One Hundred and Fifty- five I continued to fit the Port side billboards and linings. 3939 3936 3937 I think I have made a better job of the Port side, so off came the starboard side for a re-fit. 3941 Starboard side re-done, happier now. 3942 I have also taken the opportunity to replace the bow port lid and add double lifting lanyards. 3852 Small sections of telephone wire sleeving are used to represent the port lanyard tubes, but they did need drilling through to take the 0.30mm line which was stiffened with ca for the purpose. 3932 Another small job is to add the rudder chains. I used some Caldercraft Brass chain, 18 links /per inch. I will get around to trimming them at some point. B.E. 08/03/2024

Post One Hundred and Fifty- four This post follows on from Post 152 having a close relationship to anchors. One of the reasons I made up the anchors is that I have also been thinking about anchor linings and billboards. These do not feature with the kit and do not tend to appear on contemporary plans. Many contemporary models show them, as on Amazon above. They were an important feature on ships of the period to protect the hull from the anchor flukes. Chuck’s Winnie My go to reference, here you can see the lining running over the wale. 7396 I added billboards to my Sphinx build as above. 3906 Having an anchor made up is useful in that the arc made by the anchor as it is swung horizontal from the cathead for securing, determines the position of the lining and billboards. In considering Bolsters and Billboards for Indy I am hamstrung by the absence of specific sizes of timber to use. With Sphinx it was relatively easy having the TFFM book to refer to. I know where these fittings were placed so it is basically down to what looks good to my eye. I firstly made the Bolsters using some Boxwood square stock of 2.75mm. This was topped by some 3.5 x 0.7mm boxwood strip. 3910 The length of the bolster worked out at 26mm. Notches were cut out of the back side to fit over the first two preventer plates of the Fore channels and a slight curve was induced to match the curve of the bow. The bolster was fixed to the Black strake only with pins. 3913 With the bolsters in place the Billboards can be made. For this I use some 1mm Boxwood scrap inscribed with 3mm wide boards which reflect the topsides planking. The Linings 3914 These cover the main wale in the case of Indy and scribe an arc at the fore end that follows that of the anchor swing. I settled on using some 0.6mm Pearwood scrap which suits my eye. 3917 3919 3929 In fixing the linings I have used double sided tape. This gives me the option of easy removal if I decide I don’t like them, and the jury is still out on that. Altho’ I’m not fitting the anchors I don’t think it will be an easy fit to get the bowers to look right. 3923 3924 If the bill is to rest on the Fore channel there is little room between the deadeyes. 3930 A possible fixing with the arm atop the fore end of the channel secured with shank painters around the timberheads. I will be interested to see how others tackle the anchor rigging.🤔 B.E. 07/03/2024

Thankyou Guys for your comments and 'likes' @ Alistair - that shelf is going to need some heavy duty brackets.😉 B.E.

Thank you Walter and Nipper. @ Nipper - I used Syren 0.3mmø line which equates to 2½” circ. (Lavery comments that in the 1780’s port ropes were usually of 3” rope.) Cheers, B.E.