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Blue Ensign
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Everything posted by Blue Ensign
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If you go down the toggle route Andy I would suggest you drill the slots for the strops before you fit the battens that radiate across the top. I had to remove and re-jig some of the battens because they cut across where the slots should be. The slots incidently fall behind the forward crosstrees and aft of the aft crosstrees. I found this quite a tricky exercise at 1:64 and I'm not sure how much will be apparent once all the top hamper is fitted. Still it satisfies the inner masochist I suppose. B.E. -
Looking very good Grant, I shall be following your progress with great interest; I may soon be having to try to replicate your excellent work. Regards, B.E.
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Hi Timmo , yes that is the sort of arrangement I had in mind. I see on the AoTS cover drawing that the rail is painted black in the centre of the moulding which picks up with the wale and the capping rails. I see what you mean about the blue section along the Foc'sle topsides, but you have an artists eye as evidenced by your work on the bulkhead and I'm sure whatever you eventually decide upon will look good. Regards, B.E.
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Tricky one that Timmo, I'm not quite sure, either way quite a tricky paint job but one I've no doubt you are up to. Had you considered a plain varnished affect for the rail with the centre picked out in the same blue as the bulkhead? B.E.
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Rigging sizes in relation to scale of model
Blue Ensign replied to HKC's topic in Masting, rigging and sails
It would help to know what model you are building; Anderson is good for 17th early 18th century period but Steel is better for mid 18th to early 19th century period. B.E. -
I wish you joy Bob in your new acquisition to come, I hope it does the business. Thanks for your comment about Pegasus, I am getting an enormous pleasure from bashing her about, glad she's been of help to you. Cheers, B.E.
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MONTANES by Garward - OcCre
Blue Ensign replied to Garward's topic in - Kit build logs for subjects built from 1751 - 1800
Hi Garward, Haven't looked in on your build since the big crash, a pleasure to re-visit, she has lost non of the wow factor, just love what you have done with this kit, your colour toning is wonderful. Regards, B.E. -
Hi Bob, The lathe comes with a set of collets to hold the work in the headstock, and a faceplate for larger items. I did in fact buy both the 3 and 4 jaw chucks, and the drill chuck which fits in the tail stock. The 4 jaw chuck is made of plastic, a little kinder to wood perhaps and slightly more versatile than the self centreing 3 jaw chuck. I have used both, and I thought while I'm at it....... I've not used the drill chuck as yet but I suppose it will be useful if I need to drill holes in the end of the piece, but again I thought while I'm at it... I didn't buy the chisels so I can't comment on the quality etc, but chisels would be necessary if you intend to do some turning as opposed to just tapering. I used various grades of sandpaper to taper masts and it works quite well. I make a card template of the taper at the quarters and use this with my calipers to check progress. There are details on my Pegasus log of the method I use. Cheers, B.E.
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Wonderful stuff Daniel, how I envy your eyes, dexterity, and talent . M.
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It's all looking very good Jason, you really do neat work. Re the capsquares on the long guns:- I used a small eyebolt with a small portion clipped off the eye to represent the hinge that fitted on the rear of the capsquare. The shortened stem of the eyebolt fitted in a hole drilled immediately behind the capsquare and the now open eye fitted into the hole in the capsquare. At the scale involved I think it does a fair representation of the hinge. I searched for a while to find chain that was sufficiently small for the capsquare securing bolt. I eventually found some at Jotika at 42 links per inch which is what I used. Here's the link to their online shop. http://www.shipwrightshop.com/shop/contents/en-uk/d59_Thread-Chain-Wire_02.html For the bolt I just used a squeezed together 0.3mm brass etched eyelet, also from Jotika. http://www.shipwrightshop.com/shop/contents/en-uk/d58_Mast-Detail-and-Rigging-Fittings_01.html Incidently those etched eyelets sold in packs of 250 are always worth having, they come in handy for lots of modelling jobs where tiny eyebolts are required. Regards, M.
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Hi Pete, As someone with ships boats on their mind at present I will be very interested to see how your little gem turns out, it looks an interesting little project. Regards, B.E.
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Hi Ferit, I’m not very familiar with that arrangement because with British ships some time around the mid to late seventeenth century the make-up of the stern timbers changed. I believe it is referred to as from a square tuck to a round tuck at the stern. Prior to the round tuck the rudder was as shown on your Berlin with the rudder head completely outside of the hull and with the tiller taken in thro’ a square hole below the transom. Because the hole had to be large enough to allow movement of the tiller, it presented problems in keeping out water. With the round tuck the stern post and rudder head lengths were increased and the rudder head was taken up inside the ship thro’ the much smaller helm port and the tiller was entirely within the ship. I understand that many European Navies retained the old style arrangement for some years after the British had changed, so the arrangement on your Berlin would appear to be entirely in keeping with the period. The use of a whipstaff which was the primary methods of steering for larger ships of the period would be operated under both stern arrangements. Sorry if my original comment raised a doubt in your mind. Regards, B.E.
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You have made a fine job of Badger Mike, your guns and rigging look impressive and I particularly like the fineness you have achieved with the topmasts. Regards, B.E.
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Interesting stern post and rudder arrangement Ferit, but beautifully executed. Love the carved work beneath the transom. B.E.
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Bob, the part isn't listed on site, and I had to speak to Axminster on the telephone to order the item. The bed is listed in the manual that comes with the lathe; it is 27020-31 (Maschinenbett) I initiated my enquiry with Proxxon Tools UK, who put me onto Axminster. ps the headstock is the left end with the chuck on it, there is a hole through the centre of the machine that allows the work to protrude out the end. The Tailstock on the right travels along the bed to fix the work piece. Look forward to seeing your completed bee stripes in due course B.E.
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Hello again Bob, here's a couple of mock-up pics of how the set up looks. One of the attractions of the DB250 for me is the compactness, don't need a lot of room to work it, and it handles most of my modelling jobs. My idea when I set it up is to have a detachable baseboard for the extension bed, or perhaps have it hinged in some way to fold back behind the machine board or maybe beneath it. That way I can retain the benefit of the small size, but extend it to around 30" workable length when required. I don't know if flex would become an issue at that length but I have worked on 8mm dowel up to 18" in length without a problem. Cheers, B.E.
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That's a very nice build you have developing there Bob. I have the Proxxon DB250 lathe, it is a fine little machine, but as you say working on longer spars can be a problem. I haven't put it into practice yet but I purchased a spare lathe bed( 27020-31 Replacement bed for micro lathe (part no PRO000160) £39.00.) Fixed to a board against and in line with the machine bed, the tailstock can be re-positioned to give effectively more than twice the available working length, but as I said I haven't yet trialled it at maximum distance. This is the company in the UK where I got the spare item, it had to be ordered, and took about three weeks to arrive. http://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-shopproxxon_pg1/#filterkey=interest&page=1&interest=MODELLING Regards, B.E.
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Beautiful work Juergen, a fine model developing. Regards, B.E.
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Hi Sid, The standard practice for British ships of War in the eighteenth century was to paint the lower masts yellow with that portion of the mast from the cap to the lower part of the hounds black. The topmasts were usually varnished with again that portion just below the hounds to the mast head also painted black. The part of the topmast between the lower mast cap and the mast top were also painted black. With regard to Pickle, Jotika suggest staining the masts walnut, which I found not very attractive. On my build I coloured them with satin light oak varnish enhanced with a touch of natural wood finish, as I prefer to use as little paint as possible. The yards as you say were usually painted black. Hope this helps. B.E.
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You show great ingenuity in your build Revier, a very interesting log to follow; She is developing beautifully. Well done. B.E.
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Great progress Augie, love that last shot, all the rigging looks to be beautifully in scale. Syren makes such an attractive model. Well done. B.E.
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Nice shots of the masthead Peter, looks very business like with the jeer strops, shrouds and stay collars all in place. The use of a long tackle block in a span for the lifts is indicated by Steel,(1794) and is shown by Lees as being applicable between 1719 and 1806, but then somewhat confusingly goes on to say that from about 1760 the block was seized to an eyebolt in the cap rather than being fitted with a span. this seems to be the system favoured by Antscherl who shows a single block hooked to an eyebolt beneath the forward end of the cap. I will also be going with a Long tackle block if only because they are a more interesting feature. Sorry about the mizen mishap, I hope the jury rig holds, not too much stress on the topmast. Cheers, B.E.
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Hi Mark, Boudriot gives quite a lot of detail about the pumps in his Seventy-four Gun ship book Volume two, too much for me to copy here. However, the shaft you can see on the video is called the spear and it is made of Fir; attached to the spear are the chocks (hourglass) to which the brake handle is attached via a rope hooked to a grommet secured around the chocks. If you need more detailed info send me a pm and I will try and expand on the Boudriot narrative. Regards, B.E.
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Those fenders and chesstrees are tricky little beggars to fit, but you have made a nice job of them Jason, well done B.E.
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