Blue Ensign

Thanks Glenn and Ron, I usually have three build boards for larger projects such as Sphinx/ Indy each one specific to a particular stage of a build. I find the Amati clamp very useful where I want a specific angle, or a bit of height but wouldn't trust the single one for Indy, she's too heavy and long. At the moment I'm using my old Sphinx board bashed to accommodate Indy, but I will be making a new one. Regards, B.E.

Thankyou David, I'm already thinking Where am I going to put this! Chapter Two First Stages In this stage most of the heavy weight mdf items are assembled. The initial assembly slots together cleanly, and I must commend Chris on the sharpness and fit of the laser work. I did run a sanding stick in the Bulkhead slots to smooth the char and where necessary a light tap with a pein hammer (not directly) seated the parts fully down. I found I needed to ease the slots for the securing pegs which run thro’ the keel assembly. Even so they are a snug fit and I don’t really think they need glue. 0384 The keel is still quite floppy at this stage due to its length, so I utilised the Amati keel clamp whilst I fettled and inserted the pegs. 0383 With this beast the keel clamp is at the limit of its capacity, and I’m toying with the idea of buying a second to double the length, and provide a more stable support. A deeper bench would be ideal but not really feasible. I will have to be careful when turning the hull that those delicate frame tops don’t collide with the wall. 0387 Note: There is a minor error in the manual at Stages 21/22. Bulkhead 17 is not removeable as indicated, as it is held by part 40. Chris has issued a pdf amendment addressing this. 0389 A small area of the Orlop deck is represented beneath the Fore hatchways, which I ‘dressed’ using spare engraved maple decking. 0390 The Lower deck slips seamlessly into place and there is a plywood planking engraved section that presumably covers the area that may be observed thro’ the Upper deck openings. The Orlop and Lower deck decking section are the only parts glued at this stage. 0401 I considered whether to over-plank the Lower deck section, as will be done to the upper deck, but very little will be seen and I think the marked plank lines and butts will be sufficient for the purpose. 0401 Very nicely cut grating sets which I will install ‘as is’ for the lower deck. 0397 The assembly of ladders always give me trouble but a simple jig helps a little. The final action in this Chapter is to add the Longitudinal bracing pieces (No.30) and parts5b/11b described as a gundeck beam. 0405 Note: Parts 30 are to be found on the 4mm mdf sheet not 3mmm as indicated. May save you a little time in sifting thro’ the sheets. I did have a slight mishap with one of the part 30 pieces, which broke about one-third along at the weak point of the slot top. Take care if easing these slots the part is very whippy and care needs to be taken. 0408 This completes this section, more of an assembly than a build at this stage. I can only marvel at the ingenuity of Chris to design a beast like this held securely together with barely any glue. B.E. 10/03/2023

Thanks Jason. It's only the equivalent of buying the Pearwood Rigging block kit version, but with Boxwood planking substituted for the blocks, and with additional planking included. For those who may be interested this is the cutting list for the replacements I envisage. 500mm long strips 20pkts Boxwood strip 4x1mm (200 strips.) for decking. 2 pkts Boxwood strip 6x1mm (20 strips) for decking. 4 pkts Boxwood strip 5x1 (40 strips) for gunport stripe and down to waterline Boxwood sheet 1mm 500mm (L) x 100mm (w) for cutting margin planks, etc; I bought that carronade from a village shop sometime in the 1970s, it's a heavy cast iron beast, made around the same time. I also purchased a larger scale 24 pounder long gun. Both carriages are made of English oak, and the breeching line I made myself at the Chatham dockyard, sometime in the 1990's B.E.

Always good to finish the deck planking, nice job Kevin.👍 Did you find the strip planking followed the printed layout, or did it start to run off the further you got across the deck? Did you find the printed pattern a help or hindrance? Cheers, B.E.

I don't need luck Kevin - I've got you to follow😜 Cheers, B.E.

Chapter One Formulating a plan Wow – Sphinx on steroids! 01591 I’ll leave my assistant to do the initial inventory while I continue to fiddle with Medway. I can’t be doing with hauling that box around, so first steps are to sort the box content and put aside all the items I won’t be using. Smaller delicate items are put into a smaller container. I have been waiting to see what the supplied Red Alder deck planking looks like. Jim’s prototype build used maple pre-engraved decks. 0374 Under artificial light. 0378 Under natural window light. 1601 It is a nice-looking wood, but I understand Alder tends to darken with age, in tone it reminds me of Tanganyika, but a lot nicer. My preference is for Boxwood for decking. I would have gone for the top of the range Boxwood kit, but I didn’t need the Pearwood blocks, (£140) and the premium for the Boxwood version is a hefty £590. That’s a good chunk of a Sphinx worth! Still, I want what I want, therefore I have put in an order for the necessary Boxwood planking from Hobbymill.eu precision milled exotic woods and woodturning blanks which also allows me to include wider strips which are often necessary for decking purposes, and sheet to cut margin planks. Also included is Boxwood planking for the Topsides down to the wale. I am thinking of a contrasting wood for the Gunport stripe. I am also thinking of coppering this model, think the wonderful model of Bellona, but I am easy with a pearwood lower hull should my resolve fail. This is an additional cost but one that is only equivalent to the cost of the pearwood blocks set and provides me with a nice saving over the cost of the Boxwood kit. I have little doubt at all that the cost of sundries and extras will add more as the build progresses, they certainly did on my Sphinx build. Time for a little light assembly work I think. B.E. 09/03/2023

Post 16 With the rails in place the stem bolsters have to be shaped and fitted. Chuck describes this step as challenging and provides six blanks from which two finished bolsters are required. Hoping that’s enough, but if it isn’t, perhaps I need a different hobby. 0346 To give me a feel for shaping these bolsters I carved a Balsa block before moving onto the cedar. 0349 0350 To achieve the shape, I used a No11 scalpel blade, and finger sanders with a curved profile. 0351 0352 Once the bevels are cut the most difficult part is holding the bolster to impart the concave shape down to around 0.8mm thickness at the bottom edge. 0353 0354 Multiple trial fittings are required during the shaping process. 0362 The final finishing was done with the bolsters in place. 0372 0367 All went well with four blanks left. The recess for the bolster roller was cut using micro chisels. 0370 0373 I can’t help thinking that the boat looks better without those baulks of wood, necessary as they are to perform one of the main operational functions. Perhaps once the decorative rail and decoration is applied they won’t look so prominent. B.E. 08/03/2023

I would think that anyone scratch building the hull of Indy with proper frames wouldn't need the crutch of the Indy kit to finish it. It's all way beyond my pay grade. There are a few sectional kits around if that's what takes your fancy. B.E.

Thanks for your comments Guys, much appreciated. @ Nipper - a stretch too far to add false 'real' frames to the mix, but I am watching Chuck's Speedwell development with great interest. A very large box is due to be delivered by UPS today, as close as it gets to being like a kid at Christmas again.😊 B.E.

Post 15 The next stage is fitting the Capping rails, this will secure the frame tops and stiffen the frames further. I reduced the frame depths a little at the sheer before I added the rails which went on without any issues. 0331 I fixed the bow section first followed by the aft, centring the rail along the sheer. 0333 This is a fairly painless exercise, just need to ensure that the rails sit right down on the sheer and a tight join at the centre is achieved. A slight bevelling where the rail fits beneath the transom was required. 0335 I love the run of the sheer on this model. 0338 0340 0342 0341 0336 0343 0345 Fairly satisfied with progress thus far, but a somewhat more testy aspect looms. B.E. 06/03/2023

Cheers Guys, thanks for your support. 👍 @ Kevin - I was rather thinking of following you, and crib off your progress.😉 I have informed my shipyard assistant of the impending project, and he's of the opinion that he'd rather be sniffing around the woods and meadows, than spend long hours in the workshop, listening to me muttering to myself. B.E.

HMS Indefatigable 1794 The Prologue. I find myself once again beguiled by that modeller’s honeypot known as Vanguard models and I finally succumbed to Chris’s latest offering, having mulled it over for several weeks. Why the wait, wots not to like, some may say, but this will be the largest project I have undertaken since Norske Løve way back in the 1980’s. Indefatigable is about the same hull size as Norske Løve, (1:70 scale) but not so tall. It will still demand a sizeable display area. As with my Sphinx build this will be Navy Board style, I’ve no room for masting and rigging, and I have developed an affection for the look. I opted for the basic kit as all the masting, rigging line, and block work will not be used, simply added to my ever-growing pile of discarded kit parts. If I decide to add stump masts my preferred material is Ramin. From a preliminary assessment I don’t think Chris has left me much to fiddle with. He has addressed the issue of realistic Quarter galleries, the provision of Lodging knees, and a properly fitted out Great Cabin, complete with Rudder housing. He has solved the issue of lower deck cannons coming adrift early in a build, and the stern decoration and Figure are wonderfully sculpted. In terms of authenticity this kit hits the spot and is what in the end persuaded me to go for it. As with Sphinx I will be taking a minimalist paint approach, and will look to represent the ochre band along the gunport line more subtly, using natural woods. It was the all-painted hull that also delayed my decision; authentic as it is, I prefer the natural beauty of wood on a model of this type, and I needed to have a clear idea of the approach in my mind. The makings are expected to arrive on Tuesday, and I will be working the initial stages of the build in conjunction with my current Medway project. B.E. 05/03/2023

Vanguard re-imagined. A conversation between Sir Christopher Watton, notable ship designer for his Britannic Majesty, and Mr James Hatch (seated) acknowledged Master shipwright, and preferred Navy Board contractor. Think you can knock this up by Easter Hatch, need to recoup some funds, don’t you know. That’s a big ask Sir Christopher, I ain’t left the yard in months, and I’ve only just finished chopping down that last Sixty-four you’ve had me working on for weeks. Well, do your best Hatch, and don’t forget the penalty clauses..

Phew, that's a relief, thank you Chuck. It's so reassuring to have your expert eye watching over my efforts and those of others on MSW, it is much appreciated. B.E.

Looks wonderful Ron 👍 B.E.

Post 14 Removing the base board went without issue, and the hull will now remain upright as work progresses. 0311 The Queen Anne Barge building board is taken into service to support the Longboat for the remainder of the build. An issue developed with the upper wale plank on the starboard side where it had slipped partially out of the stem rabbet. 0310 Poor fitting on my part no doubt. 0309 Acetone was used to free the top two planks at the stem, and with the use of clamps and a prop the offending planks were re-set. Fortunately, in this area the bow plank/stem rabbet will be covered by bolsters attached to the stem which support the roller fitting at the bow. 0313 The tools I used to release the frames. A chisel blade to ping off the supporting tabs, and micro saw blades to release the frame centres. Fairly easily done with a micro saw, and apart from the alarming creaking as the centres release from the frame bottoms all went well. Only one frame needed re-gluing. 0330 This is the first real opportunity to see what a fine model, and what great lines she has. I am content with my decision to build her open framed. 0326 0316 0315 0319 0322 A fair way to go yet. B.E. 04/03/2023

A fine job you are doing Rick, I'd be more than happy to display your model in my home. I think you will enjoy Cheerful even more, Chuck provides such a great range of projects. B.E.

Post 13 With the hull still inverted and secure on its board I decided this was a good point to add the planking nails. 10lb monofilament line provided in the kit was used. This size line has a given diameter of 0.11” (0.279mm) A #77 drill is indicated for use which has a ø of 0.4572mm. The actual line is close enough to 0.3mm ø I was somewhat puzzled by this, why use a drill that is almost twice the size of the line required to be fitted. I found that a 0.4mm drill was more than sufficient for the task. 0291 Tape was used to mark the frame lines. 0292 A wood strip was used to position the holes top and bottom of the planks. 0294 I used a flexible light behind the hull to reveal the frames. 0295 It is then just a case of dipping in pva and inserting ad nauseum. Can’t really complain as there are only four strakes to do in total. 0297 I don’t think I would have had enough 10lb line to complete a full hull. 0299 0304 0302 A little more fettlin’ before I can turn the hull the right way up and start removing the centres. B.E. 03/03/2023

A sentiment I fully endorse Kevin, I have an aversion to covering up high grade timber with paint. The ingenuity of Chris's design allows for a high level of satisfaction early in a build; it would have been inconceivable a few years ago to have reached that stage in only three days. Great progress.👍 B.E.

Thank you, Haken, Gus, and Bob. @ Haken - certainly not me! @ Gus - Thank you for looking in. @ Bob - I can relate to the fairing issue Bob, I do exactly what you do, and am still left with that niggling thought at the end. With this planking exercise it was the plank I traced myself, using Tamiya tape on the hull, that gave me the least trouble. It was a useful exercise tho' but there is a temptation to think that a tiny bit of tweaking will do the job, when it clearly doesn't, and Chuck's advice to use tick marks reveals that in places more needs to be taken off that first imagined. Regards, B.E.

Post 12 Picking up on an idea used by Jean-Paul, but one that seems natural to me, I decided to form the two upper wale planks over the existing planks. 0277 The planks were first soaked to give flexibility, and once held in place were given the hairdryer treatment. This way much of the stress was taken out of them. 0278 I used Tamiya tape to protect the existing planks. 0271a 0275 I again fitted the sheer planks first using ca for the bow bend, and pva thereafter. The hull was turned the right way up for the process. It is worth checking the frames before gluing; I found several instances where the ca had not fully grabbed the first layer of planks at the top edge. 0274 A side benefit of those little blocks fitted to protect the frames during fairing is that they provide an anchor in a tricky place to hold a clamp during re-gluing. Oh dear, whilst securing the bow wale on the s/b side, the bow plank 13 (third down) snapped along the grain between the bow rabbet and first frame when I inadvertently pressed too hard. Unlucky 13 for me, I have already had one breakage, and both sides were re-cuts. 0279 The one small compensation was that the broken plank came away easily. I left the aft one in place. Am I downhearted, you bet, I am thoroughly annoyed at my ineptitude. 0283 Re-fitting the new plank proved quite a trial taking a long session of sanding and dry fitting before it sat easily without stress. I had already scrapped an earlier one after a fair time having cut it a tad too short to meet the aft plank join. The lower wale planks were attended to next. Starting with the starboard side; Again, I had to do a lot of tweaking to get the bow section (15) to fit. The aft section (16) was also problematic. When tweaked to fit it lay above the joint line of the corresponding plank beneath it, revealing the cheat that belies the wale as one thicker plank. 0288 I re-cut another plank using a Tamiya tape pattern taken from the hull, which covers up the offending joint. The port side went a little easier. 0285 0286 Above – dry fitting the lower wale planks. Overall, I found the planking trickier than I seem to remember from when doing the Royal Barge. Perhaps it’s just as well I went for the open frame version. Movin’ onto a final sanding and finishing of the planking. B.E. 28/02/2023

Worth fettlin' the columns Derek, even if the only ones ultimately visible are those adjacent to the Main ladderway. You've made a nice job of them. B.E.

Coppering looks good, and it does hide a multitude of sins, I was glad of it on my Pegasus build. If you want to add a degree of authenticity the rudder straps and pintles on copper hulls were made of a cuprous alloy, iron doesn't work with copper. Painting them a coppery/bronze colour would be more accurate. B.E.

In 1771 Britain's most famous Naval hero, Nelson, first put to sea at the age of twelve under the patronage of his uncle, Maurice Suckling, a Royal Navy Captain. A boy had to grow up quickly in those days. B.E.

Enjoy your new adventure Derek, it's a great kit to build. You'll have one advantage over me in that you will be able to furnish the Great cabin, Chris's furniture arrived to late for me, I couldn't get the stuff between the beams. A lot of the mods I made to Sphinx were addressed by Chris on his Indy kit, especially the Quarter galleries, which is perhaps the trickiest change I made on Sphinx. B.E.