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Blue Ensign

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  1. Blue Ensign
    Thank you Ryland and Bob, it's good to have your respective works to refer to. 👍 Post 11 The three required strakes of this version are now fitted, but not fully fettled. I found that the planks altho’ pre-spiled did require a fair amount of tweaking to get them to fit. 0270 0267 0263 The second strake below the sheer (plank15) proved trickier to fit. Starting with the port side, once around the bow curve it did not readily sit down against the sheer plank. Repeated bending and some sanding was required to get the plank into position. 0266 The aft section (plank16) was a little easier but did require some sanding and bevelling along the section between frame 8 and the transom. Mid way along a slight curve was induced, and from frame 8 a slight twist is also required where the plank starts to curve beneath the transom. 0265 The forward plank on the Starboard side also required similar treatment. The aft section (16) proved problematic, I just couldn’t get rid of an annoying gap, so the plank was scrapped and a replacement cut which went on with minimal sanding and bevelling. The third strake bow plank (13) is a long plank near 70% of the overall hull length. 0262 An almost instant disaster the end of the plank split along the grain where it fits into the bow rabbet, just where you don’t want it – under pressure at the bow. Fortunately, there is sufficient sheet to cut replacements which is easily done using just a scalpel. Based on the trial fitting of the now replaced plank, the new plank can be tweaked before cutting to allow a little extra material for better sanding to fit. 0264 Both sides of plank (13) were re-cuts and it took me some time to get anywhere close to a tight fit. 0268 The same applied to the aft section where both planks (14) were re-fits. 0269 The one comforting thought is that the first and second strakes are covered by an extra layer of duplicate planks which form the wale, so there are in effect two chances to get it right. This will be the next step. B.E. 22/02/2023
  2. Blue Ensign
    A great looking model Andrew, full of interest, and those sails are excellent. Well done! B.E.
  3. Blue Ensign
    Post 10 Planking begins. The sheer line plank at the bow begins with Plank 17. 0235 As you can see this is the port side and this short section has a downward curve, which at first sight may seem counter-intuitive, but it is correct to keep the line right as it bends around the bow frames. 0237 I use water and heat to perform the bend around a large circumference tube. Not having used Alaskan Cedar in a build I was a little nervous of using heat only in case the strip snapped at the bend point. 0238 0239 Several bending sessions were required to get a stress-free lie around the bow, plus a small twist at the bow end so the plank sat square within the rabbet. 0243 I have re-inserted the balsa spacer blocks to help support the frames during fitting of the planks. 0247 I opted to use ca to glue the first plank, apart from any other consideration it is always tricky to clamp planks around the curve of the bow, and it is useful to hold the plank at the exact level for an instant grab. 0248 Dry fitting the aft plank, this piece needed no adjustment for fit. The aft section of the sheer plank is a lengthy piece for which I will again use ca, progressing two frames at a time. 0249 At the transom a piece of 1/16th strip was used to allow for the capping rail which sits beneath the transom wings. With first sheer strakes glued into place the hull is again inverted for the next two strakes to be fitted. 0251 0255 0258A I do seem to have a slight variance in a couple of the frame tops above the sheer planks port and Starboard, towards the stern, but otherwise the application went quite smoothly. The next two planks are likely to prove more of a challenge to get a tight fit against the sheer plank, but at least I now have a plank to work against. B.E. 14/02/2023
  4. Blue Ensign
    Very nice work, I can only hope my efforts achieve close to your result. B.E.
  5. Blue Ensign
    Post Nine After a short delay back to the lining off. 0207a This time the tick strips match both sides. 0227 I had a dabble with the tape fully in the knowledge that the pre-spiled planks obviate any need for the process. As an exercise to gain an appreciation of how Chuck arrives at his end result it is useful, particularly how the aft three and foremost three frames were not initially tick marked, but the run being eyeballed to the stem and Transom. One has to bear in mind that Chuck won’t always be there to pre -spile planks for you. 0228 This I found easier said than done with the tape reluctant to stick at the bow; doesn’t bode well for leisurely sighting and tweaking of the line, but I get the idea. So, I will now move onto the planking… Even though a fully planked model gives more modelling for your money I have made the decision to complete her with open frames, and only plank the top three strakes. This will match the style of the Queen Anne Barge that I completed in 2021. In some ways this is more of a tricky build than a fully planked model, where one starts with the Garboard planks and works up the hull sequentially. I will be starting at the seventh strake and need to ensure that I use the correct planks at the correct level. Rustyj Dsc0048 numbered. Jpr62 HULL3 03 numbered To this end I have borrowed a couple of photos from the builds by Rusty and Jean-Paul on which to mark the plank numbers. I have started by playing around using card replicates of the planks to give me a feel for the job. 0229 0230 I’m pleased to note that the sheer planks pretty much hit the tick marks for the upper strake. 0231 0232 0233 0234 I have decided to start from the sheer rail with the hull the right way up. Here, the frame tops, stem rabbet, and transom wings provide a guide. (Making allowance for the capping rail that will fit beneath the wings) B.E. 11/02/2023
  6. Blue Ensign
    Having built both Fifie and Zulu, I would say that the Zulu is slightly more tricky to plank than the Fifie, but both represent excellent starter builds, but also provide the opportunity for enhancement. I don't think you would be disappointed by either. B.E.
  7. Blue Ensign
    Hi Gus, the one you show is a resin hull already completed apart from the internal fittings. This won't really advance you very far in wooden ship building. The one I was referring to is the Fife 'Lady Eleanor' specifically designed for Novice builders.. B.E.
  8. Blue Ensign
    Thank you for your kind words Gus, These boats are quite tricky to assemble, and I agree with Vanguards rating of ‘experienced’. I don’t think the 36’ barge is currently on sale, but the 32’ version is. The boats are quite delicate, at least until they are planked. ‘Soft’ hands and a gentle approach is needed to avoid breakages in areas like the stem and stern during the fairing and planking process. These small boats aren’t the best candidates for a start in ship modelling, but all you have to lose apart from your temper is the cost of the kit. The danger is that frustration and failure may put you off the hobby for life. Something like the Vanguard Fishing boat range, The Fifie perhaps, is an excellent choice for someone new to ship modelling, with a high chance of a good result and a desire for more. I wish you well in whatever you decide. Regards, B.E.
  9. Blue Ensign
    Thanks Jason, Without redo's you can't advance in model ship building; it's the 'that'll do' approach that blocks improvements in build quality. I don't always succeed but as I grow older I'm far less forgiving of myself in terms of 'what'll' do. Cheers, B.E.
  10. Blue Ensign
    Post Eight. Armed with Chuck’s good advice and with better heart I sallied forth to re-fix the bow section frames. What testy business, once I’d got frames 1 and 2 at the bow spot on centred, attempts to centre the frames along the keel instantly threw them out. I decided to centre and glue the foremost bow frames H and G into the keel and let them set. I figured that I could still remove the forward Build board section and then refit it for centring the remainder, noting those which presented difficulty. 0198 I eased the frames a little to allow the keel notches to slip a little easier across the frames. It seemed to work, and the remainder were re-fitted and glued. There was time to check the measurements both sides of the frames which are now matching. 0199 0195 0203A 0206 0204 Hopefully back on track, now where did I put those tick strips. B.E. 03/02/2023
  11. Blue Ensign
    Postscript to previous . Chuck has identified the likely cause of the issue as the keel not being fully centred on the forward framing section, plus a slight keel bend that I couldn't detect. Round two coming up, I must try to do better. Given how busy Chuck must be, what a great service he provides. Thank you Chuck. B.E.
  12. Blue Ensign
    My latest purchase. 0189 Ordered 29th January received 2nd February, excellent service from Seawatch Books. I enjoy reading Greg and David's books for their own sake, but I may just have secondary reason for buying. B.E.
  13. Blue Ensign
    Post Seven And it was all going so fine. When I came to do the tick strips I quickly found that there was a variance between the overall length of frame edges port and starboard. 0179 The eight aftermost rear frames were fine, but ten of the forward ones were out between 2-4mm. The port side (with the hull inverted) were all shorter than the starboard side, suggesting that the frames are not centred. 0181 You can see here marked in pencil on the frames the length difference between the keel rabbet and edge of the floor timbers on the opposing side. 0182 There is no wriggle room laterally in the frames they fit tight against the board slots, and the two halves of the board are squarely joined. The keel looks straight but as it stands, I can’t proceed on this basis. 0184 Nothing for it but to disassemble the forward half of the keel and re-set, hopefully with better results, but at least the fairing has been achieved. 0186 Fortunately, the keel separated from the frames fairly easily without any damage, but I’m still left with the issue of how to centre the keel without lateral movement in any of the frames. It looks like I need to shave a fraction off the board slots relative to the offending frames to allow a degree of lateral movement. This would be easier and less risky than messing with the frame centres. Before I proceed, any thoughts from those who have gone through this process? B.E. 02/02/2023
  14. Blue Ensign
    Post Six I always have a niggle of doubt completing this element of a build; is this the right point to stop, is it as good as I can get it? After several more hours, I think (hope) the fairing is complete. Running my test plank across all frames from Garboard to sheer indicates a fair lie as far as I can see. 0164 0166 0167 0168 0170 0171 0173 0174 0175 I did not experience any traumas with the frames; with the tips from Chuck they held good, and the balsa blocks between the frames helped, along with repeating the mantra – soft hands, keep it easy, to myself. To get the most benefit from this project, even tho’ it’s not strictly necessary, I will follow Chuck’s plan of lining off the hull for planking. Time to move to the next stage. B.E. 01/02/2023
  15. Blue Ensign
    Thanks Mike, The board is an integral part of the kit, and has been well designed by Chuck, but it can be disposed of once the planking is completed. I will modify it to hold the hull in the upright position once that stage is reached. B,E,
  16. Blue Ensign
    Post Five Preparations are made for the fairing process. I will be using 320 grit aluminium oxide fabric backed sandpaper, which I buy on rolls. I also have some 240 grit sheets. 0154 Many will be familiar with Model Craft finger sanders, the main drawback being replacing the sanding bands which cost around £9.00 for three, comprising a coarse, medium, and fine grade which for this job means two of the three aren’t of much use for the fairing process. 0152A I make my own replacements using 320 grit off the roll with the ends joined together using ca and heavy duty parcel tape. (The same stuff used for securing the two halves of the building board.) A lot cheaper than the replacement bands, and the exact grit grade required can be used. You will all have heard of range anxiety in relation to electric cars, well I suffer from frame anxiety in relation to model ships.🙄 0156 Overkill maybe but I added small blocks of balsa between the frames to reduce flex. 0160 Fairing in progress. Cedar is a fairly soft wood, so the 320 grit is sufficient for the purpose. 0161 At this point I have probably spent a couple of hours fairing, but I’m not done yet. 0157 0163 I use a thin planking strip to regularly check the run across the frames. More than enough of that for today, tomorrow with fresh eyes I will use the strip to check across all frames at different levels. B.E. 30/01/2023
  17. Blue Ensign
    She's looking very nice Doug, well done, I like your new cutter.👍 B.E.
  18. Blue Ensign
    You're welcome Håkan, best wishes for Tuesday, hope things go well. B.E.
  19. Blue Ensign
    Loving what I see Håkan 👍 B.E.
  20. Blue Ensign
    Post Four Being a belt and braces sort of chap I applied the tape and wooden tabs to all the frames in preparation for fairing. 0128 I spent time assembling/disassembling the frames and keel on the building board. I didn’t find it an easy task getting all the keel slots to sit fully down on the frames, but until this is done there is no point moving on. Some of the frames required a slight sanding where they fit into the keel slots. 0132 Once I could assemble the aft section in a fairly seamless manner, I proceeded to glue. This process took but a short time. 0139 No hogging in the keel. 0137 0145 … and no keel warp. 0146 Always a relief when this first part has been completed without mishap. 0136 I added an extra support for the transom using spare brace pieces. 0148 The hull is flipped for the application of tape to the underside of the building board. 0147 The tricky business of fairing beckons. B.E. 27/01/23
  21. Blue Ensign
    Thank you Hakan, chuck and Paul. @ Hakan - Those frames are delicate enough to make me twitchy when it comes to fairing. That cutting mat has seen a lot of service, probably due for replacement, a lot of battle scars over the years. @ Chuck - Love the Alaskan Cedar you are now using. @ Paul - I still feel nervy starting a new project, even after all these years. Thank you for looking in on my build. Regards, B.E.
  22. Blue Ensign
    Post three Frame preparation is the next task. 113 It starts with the fore and aft single frames. In accordance with the advice, tape is applied both sides of the frames to support the cut line during fairing, and small tabs are glued in place to support this weak area. 0112 Provided blocks are used to protect the transom. 0111a 0110 Dry test fitting of the keel, the first of many such tests before any glue is applied. 0109a The double frames comprising Top timbers and floors are assembled. 0122 On the stern section board, the floor sections face aft. 0116 On the bow section board, the floor timbers face forward except for frames 1 and 2 next to the board join, which also face aft. 0126 The frames slot into the build board with very little need for adjustment. I will now play around with the keel fit before I commit to glue. B.E. 25/01/23
  23. Blue Ensign
    Carr Laughton has something to say about the decoration of Figures, which had been painted in natural colours, certainly from the 17th c altho' there may have been periods prior to 1770 where the fashion had lapsed in favour of gilt , varnish, or yellow paint. During the late 18th c it is highly likely that figures were painted in natural colours, so I doubt that anyone could argue with the scheme on the Indy model. The other consideration is aesthetics. Many of the beautiful 18thc models show unpainted figures, and personally as I like as little paint on models as possible I have always favoured the 'varnished' look. Indy is slightly different as it is an all painted model and is perhaps better suited to a coloured figure. It has really got to be in the 'eye' of the builder but I don't think there is an historical reason not to colour the figure. B.E.
  24. Blue Ensign
    Thank you Glenn, no others of a similar scheme , oh, except the Queen Anne Barge, the 1:24 pinnace, the 1:48 Longboat, and the 1:64 Admirals barge.😉 Trouble is I rather like the effect of red ochre for the inboard works on these models, and after all in the 18thc Georgian Navy you could have any colour you like as long as it was Red Ochre. Not used it before but I do like the cedar wood finish of this kit, it's a great substitute for Boxwood, and is now my second favourite wood. Cheers, B.E.
  25. Blue Ensign
    Thanks Captn, it's a fairly common approach, used by others in the group build section, but it's one I've used over quite a few years , similar adaptations have all sorts of applications in ship model building. Regards, B.E.

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