Blue Ensign

Here are the top planks and the side ledges in place. Next up are the vertical "floor" planks. The original have them quite wonky and Im gonna try to imitate that look.
 
 
/Matti

Cheers for  the nice comments everyone! They give lots of energy to continue the build.
 
Keith, its around 500 sculptures. Im not sure how many is left for me, but the gun port lions will be most work to get uniform and nice. I think the galleries and towers were most work on the model as all sculptures had to be individually shaped. Im glad I could shape them though so I could shape the wood the way I wanted. And it feels pretty nice to look at it afterwards.
 
Lawrence, I hope you finish the trees soon so we can get some nice updates of your work!
 
Phil, yeah the 1:10 looks bright and almost orange in those pics. It looks more muted in real life. Ill post a picture of the 1:10 looking more like real life. I always try to get natural colors when I paint models for effect and harmony My basic idea for this paintjob was to get a red like blood and a yellow like bones and the tarred hull like soil. The scale also looks more harmonic in muted natural colors in my opinion.    
 
Mark and Nigel, the original thingie looks like a sea monster with two smaller monsters at his sides. Ive read the grotesque style is common for north german renaissance. Im not sure I can get that shaped properly but I will try.
 
/Matti
 
PS: Heres a pic of the 1:10 model without the strong flash making the red and yellow look weird. I think the untreated look of the hull makes the colors look more bright than they would on a tarred ship.

I’m not entirely sure that that is the case. There were different levels of securing the guns, and there would no doubt be differences between the heavy lower deck guns with port lids in place and lighter open deck guns where run out and secured would be an option.
 
This is in fact shown in Seamanship in the age of Sail (John Harland) which includes a chapter on securing the guns. He makes the point that the Upper deck guns were ordinarily secured in the ‘run out’ position and shows the side tackles frapped.
 
On a small vessel like a sixth rate with six pounders, I would suggest that 'run out' with tompions in place would have been logically applicable.
 
B.E.

I’m not entirely sure that that is the case. There were different levels of securing the guns, and there would no doubt be differences between the heavy lower deck guns with port lids in place and lighter open deck guns where run out and secured would be an option.
 
This is in fact shown in Seamanship in the age of Sail (John Harland) which includes a chapter on securing the guns. He makes the point that the Upper deck guns were ordinarily secured in the ‘run out’ position and shows the side tackles frapped.
 
On a small vessel like a sixth rate with six pounders, I would suggest that 'run out' with tompions in place would have been logically applicable.
 
B.E.

Thanks Richard.
 
Glad you found the site of interest Lukas.
 
Hi Martin, I also have an optivisor but it irritates me to wear it too long, I prefer my extra strength  prescription specs but I think they need upgrading now.
 
Thanks for looking in Neal, this is how I did the base and water.
 
The base is constructed out of cardboard with a wooden framework.
 

The cardboard top has been sprayed with varnish to seal it, followed by coats of rattle can colours in blues and green.

A 10mm wide strip of tape surrounds the top, this will form the boundary of the ‘sea’ and strips of limewood will be fitted later, as will the moulding strips for the sides.
 
The wave pattern is then formed using a non silicone sealant working it into shape with a paintbrush handle, and then a wetted paintbrush to smooth and relax the waves a little.
 

As the sealant dries out overnight it clears to show the base coat beneath.
 

 
The 10mm x 2mm edging strips of Lime wood have now been sprayed (Regency Blue) and mitred around the edges; this will provide an even base for the acrylic case top to rest on.
 

A Georgian style moulding surrounds the base which I think is in keeping with a period look. After testing various varnish finishes, pine, dark and mid oaks, I have settled on a light oak satin varnish. This I think provides a good contrast to the dark sea.
 
I cannot completely finish the sea where it butts up to the ship until I am ready to set her in position, but a little application of sealant should then do the trick.
 

 
The colour tonings were then played around with until I reached a look I was satisfied with.
 

 
This was the final effect.
 

At this stage there was a lot left to do on the model, but the base was complete.
 
Regards,
 
B.E.

I use Carr's Metal Black for Brass
 
Here's my kit.
 

 
The  Blackening  solution is diluted by 30% with de-ionised water.
 
My procedure is:-
 
A dip in the acid dip, then scrub.
 
A dip in the neutralising rinse.
 
Insert in the blackening solution until evenly black, (less than a minute.)
 
A dip in the de ionised water.
 
Blow dry with a hairdryer.
 
Leave for a few hours
 
Coat with Humbrol mattcote varnish.
 
This is the result on my Pegasus guns.
 

 
If the finish isn't quite even enough after the solution dip, I rub off and re dip.
 
Not really had a problem with blackening guns, the secret is I think the thorough clean and scrub before blackening, and the sealing of the surface afterwards.
 
B.E.
 
 

I’m not entirely sure that that is the case. There were different levels of securing the guns, and there would no doubt be differences between the heavy lower deck guns with port lids in place and lighter open deck guns where run out and secured would be an option.
 
This is in fact shown in Seamanship in the age of Sail (John Harland) which includes a chapter on securing the guns. He makes the point that the Upper deck guns were ordinarily secured in the ‘run out’ position and shows the side tackles frapped.
 
On a small vessel like a sixth rate with six pounders, I would suggest that 'run out' with tompions in place would have been logically applicable.
 
B.E.

Planking above the wales continues.  It'll be slow going for the next week or so as the 1/8 x1/16" basswood planks need to be notched around (a lot) of gun ports.  For those of you facing something like this in the future, here's what it looks like:
 
I only use hand tools.  Here's a photo of a finished notched plank ready for placement.  The overall length represents about 22 feet @ 1:64.  The plank is laid on the hull and marked for the ports.  The notches are made with the chisel, the corners squared with the square file and everything cleaned up with 220 grit sandpaper stuck on an old file (the same width as the outside of the gun ports including a small relief).  Sometimes the wood gets pretty thin in the notched portion so be prepared to lose one every now and then.
 

 
Now here is that plank glued in place.  I use PVA here to allow some time for adjustment.
 

 
The process is actually a lot of fun but it does require patience (not my strong suit).
 
Hope everyone in the Midwest made it safely through the tornadoes.  I'm finally going to get my road heading West up into the mountains opened this week.  Been 7 weeks since the flood.  They did a helluva job since the original prediction was to open for Christmas.
 
All stay well!
 
 

No major milestones but time for an update.
 
Planking continues.  The mishap with the flying paint jar on the port side was eradicated by removing most of the planking on that side, including 2 of the simulated sheaves, and starting over:
 

 
The starboard side is at the same point.  All of the sweep port openings and gun deck gun ports are completed:
 

 
I'll be working my way up to the forecastle and QD with the planking.  Then a good sanding before I add the second layer of planking to the main and channel wales.
 
 
 
 

Lovely work BE.  Especially the sails.
 
Dan.

From Le Superbe to Le Praetorian – A  Heller Seventy-four, after Boudriot

This is a summarised record of my attempt to modify a small scale plastic
kit by reference to the works of Jean Boudriot. Very few of the original kit
fittings were used in the build.
 
This was to be a first attempt at fully detailing a model of this scale,
adding sails and displaying in a waterline setting.

Early progress
 

 

Lower deck detail.
 

Upperdeck showing Galley and Pastry oven.
One unfortunate fellow is spending time in the bilboes, for swearing on a Sunday.


Restyling the Foc’sle rail.
 

 

Modified waist railings using brass strip.
 
 
 


 
 


 


 


 


 


 


 

Hi Revier, thank you.
 
The model has a plastic cover over it that fits inside the rim of the base.
 

 
At 1:150 scale that is the only way to keep it clean. The good news is that with the small scale the overall case size is not too obtrusive.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

A simple man’s guide to sail making (part two)
 
The sail has been cut out complete with a hem all the way round, the positions of the cringles have been marked along the edges.
The hems are folded over and a small slit where the cringles are to be placed is made with the scalpel.
0.1mm line is then placed along the hem inside the fold and fished thro with a small pointy thing, to form the cringles.
This is the position so reached.
 

 

After the first few cringles have been formed the hem is glued down using neat PVA to hold the cringles in place.
 
In the pic below all the cringles have now been put into place.
 
Down each side from the top are the three pairs of Reef cringles, followed by three Bowline cringles; the leech line is attached thro’ the top two.
 
At the clue is the cringle for the blocks..
 
Across the foot of the sail are the cringles for the buntlines.

Bands, patches and linings
Additional strengthening pieces of ‘cloth’ are now required to be added to the sail. These are all attached to the aft side of the sail as shown above (Fore side on British ships.)
They comprise:
The reef bands, three narrow strips thro’ which the reef points are fixed.
The Patches small squares of material below the reef cringles at the leech.
The Top lining, the most distinctive addition whose purpose is to protect the sail from wear by friction against the mast top.
The Lining cloths which are strengthening strips staggered down the leech of the sail.
A bit like wallpapering this part, cut it to size, slap on the paste, and stick it down.
 

With the light behind the full effect of the various additions can now be seen.
A series of holes were drilled thro’ the Reef bands to take the Reef points, and again on the Head lining to take the Robands.
Some 150 reef points are required on the Topsail.
 
Once the sails are in place they can be manipulated at any later stage by the simple expediency of wetting them down.
 

The Mizen sail, the Brails that control the sail furling are all in place, there are matching lines on each side of the sail.
 
 

a simple wet down of the sail and haul on the Brails and the sail is loosely furled.
 

 
Modelspan is a tough material and in my workings with I had no failures.
 
 

 

I would use modelspan for kitting out models certainly up to 1:96 scale.
 
Cheers,
 
B.E.

Just for you JP I'll dig out my posts on the subject.
 
A Simple man’s guide to small scale sail making.
 
For this I used modelspan tissue at 21gsm.
 
This is where it all starts, my patent jig for sail making.
 

 
Well alright it’s a box with a hole cut into it.
 

The Modelspan tissue is taped over the hole – make sure the hole is large enough for the sail dimensions.
 

The witches brew – ear of bat, eye of toad, you know the sort of thing - actually pva diluted to the consistency of milk with a little yellow ochre  paint added.
 

Once the potion is mixed it takes on a fetching ochre colour.
 

The potion being applied, note the colour change and how the tissue has started to sag.
 

The completed effect, just needs to be set aside to dry............. but if you’re impatient like me...
 
 

A quick blast with the CPO’s hairdryer, diffuser in place – and were ready to go.
 
The tissue is now as tight as drum skin and much the same colour, a little more ochery than appears in the photo.
The sail ‘material’ is removed by cutting around the edges of the hole with a scalpel, or any other such sharp implement that is to hand, and is taped over the drawing as previously made.
 

I had previously  drawn out a scaled sail from the works of Jean Boudriot.
 
The lines are transferred and the fiddly business of making the sail up begins.
 
This will be the subject of the next post.
 
B.E.

Detail shots of the completed model


Long boat with the sheep pens beneath.
 

Activity on the Qtr deck, the crew are converted ‘N’ scale rail figures.
 

Poop deck detail.
 

 

Crew ascending the Main shrouds.
 

Fore deck detail.
 

Crew at the Fore Topmast head.
 

 

Head details.
 


 

 

Stern Qtr details.
 
 
Full shots of the model
 


 

 
 

 

 

 

 

Secure in her protective case.
 
I think this has been the most exacting build I have undertaken due to the small scale and my
less than good eyesight, I am very pleased with the result but I don’t think I
will attempt another at this scale.
 
I am much more comfortable with 1:64 scale, as with my current Pegasus build.

B.E.


 


 


 
 
 
 
 


 



 
 
 


 


 


 
 


 


 
 


 


 


 


 
 


 
 


 


 


 


 


 


 

Good explanations and fine work Mike, well done
 
B.E.

Haven't had much time to spare recently.  Masts approaching completion, small strips of paper were used to simulate metal bands above the tops and also added some scratch jeer block strop cleats for bit more interest out of scrap.  Painted up it seems to be coming together and I'm pretty happy.  Rails and the eyebolts will be left off until later, but all holes have been drilled.  Few more deck details to put finishing touches to and glue, and then onto the shrouds and ratlines.
 

These also show overall views of the entire deck.

Hello,
 
so some more progress on the Sculpey ornaments - this time the Royal coat of arms for the midships bulkhead.
 
Also the stairs on the hull have been remade using wood and Sculpey.
 
Jan

Hi Bob,
 
thank you for your comment and suggestions. I have finally given up with the colorful print and instead I used office white paper that I covered first with golden color and then printed with black only. Then I needed to cut out the pattern and apply a little of golden color on the edges so that the white would not be seen.
 
See the pictures...
 
I think the golden scheme looks better and does not stand out so much in contrast to the other ornamentations.
 
Cheeers,
Jan

Continuing on with the aft coaming area--
 
Here the blackened brass rods are fit to the skylight sashes, and dry fit on the frame--
 

 
 
The skylight hinges are trimmed short.  You can see where I've cut a small mortice in the skylight for them to sit--
 

 
 
The binnacle is started from a solid block.  I've also epoxied "glass" (cut from the plastic address window of an envelope) on the underside of one skylight sash--
 

 
 
The center is cut out of the binnacle block.  I've glued the hinges onto the skylight sashes, and you can see the effect of the glass in the skylight--
 

 
 
A top is made for the binnacle, and holes are drilled in the center.  A larger size from the top (the width of the compass) and a smaller one all the way through, to push the compass back out from below during test fittings--
 

 
 
In this photo you can see two sections of brass tube soldered together.  Inner tube will form a seat to glue the compass face to.  For the compass, I smeared the corner of a piece of white card stock with some stain, so it wouldn't be so bright.   Then I epoxied some "glass" to it.   After not doing a very good job cutting a tiny circle (that's where that little cut out in the corner came from), I got the idea to file the end of a brass tube to make a punch--
 

 
 
The punch worked great, but I ended up making another from the next smaller tube, as this left a little gap between the brass tube and the compass face--a hint of a gimble assembly--
 

 
 
After much frustration and delay with the companionway doors (re-gluing hinges multiple times), everything is finally there.  Some is glued, some is just sitting (the binnacle).   There's no hardware (i.e. latches, knobs, etc.) on the companionway doors, or the binnacle doors.  I'm still deciding whether to add anything to those.  I have a hard time controlling epoxy smears, and my CA has all gone bad, so for now they'll stay as is--
 

 
The binnacle is pretty short.   It's that way to stay below the companionway top, which overhangs its sides about and inch and a half.  
 
 
I think the visibility through the "glass" is just about perfect--
 

 
 
A longer "context" shot.   The deck is looking a lot more finished!
 

 
 
Ron
 
 
 

Continuing with the aft features:
 
I can't believe it's taken me all day for this progress, but here's what I've done.  (I often suffer from a need make progress,   but I must say--I did feel a sense of relaxation doing a lot this work--simply because it took so long, and I had to forget about actually finishing anything!)_
 
After making the top pieces of the companionway, check to make sure the capstan bars (in this photo a trimmed toothpick) will clear the companionway in it's open configuration--
 

 
 
Cut the pieces for the skylight "sashes".   A large part of why this takes me so long, is that I don't have milled wood the right size.   All of these pieces are sanded down by hand from larger stock--
 

 
 
Drill holes for the brass or iron (haven't decided yet) bars in these pieces.  Easier to do them in double sections before cutting them to their individual pieces--
 

 
 
Cutting the doubled pieces apart and filing the ends--
 

 
 
These are then glued on to the skylight sashes--
 

 
 
A number of hinges are made, out of brass sheet and wire, and then blackened, for the companionway, and the skylight--
 

 
 
Here's where I'm at.   The upper part of the companionway is done.   The doors have hinges glued to them.  The skylight sashes need some "glass" and their hinges, and then I'll glue the sashes onto the frame, and put the rods in--
 

 

 
 
Ron

Finishing up the pin rails:
 
 
Here's how I revised them, so they continue around the aft post at the same height.  
 

 
 
Moving on to the mast partners, I drew an octagon with at the correct size of my masts--
 

 
 
And milled the center out, a little smaller than the drawn octagon.  Notice the wood is at an angle to account for the mast rake--
 

 
 
I filed the corners of the octagon a little better, then fit the partners on the deck.   The octagons will need to be enlarged to fit the actual masts when they are made--
 

 
 
 
The aft hatch arrangement:
 
 
I finally settled on what to do with these last hatches.  It's changed from my initial idea, and I needed to do some surgery to the framing to accommodate a companionway in the second opening--
 

 
 
I glued in a ladder I had made a long time ago--
 

 
 
Some pieces cut for the companionway sides--
 

 
 
The pieces that make up the sides were glued together, and when set they were sanded flush, trimmed to the right size, and glued into a "box"--
 

 
 
Just aft of the companionway, on what's left of the coaming, I'll build a binnacle.
 
The opening forward of the companionway will be a skylight.  Here is the frame test fit--
 

 
 
And then both test fit together--
 

 
 
Ron

Continuing on with the topmast sheet bitts--
 
The main pieces are similar to the fore mast sheet bitts, but for the main mast there are some extra pin rails and posts.
 
First, the partners, and the decking are notched for the bitt posts--
 

 
 
These are dry fit--
 

 
 
The main posts, aft posts, and pin rails are shaped and partially glued.  Pins are epoxied into the ends of the side rail sub-assemblies for strength, and to make gluing easier--
 

 
 
Holes are marked and drilled in the deck for the aft posts--
 

 
 
More dry fitting--
 

 
 
Measuring for fitting the aft pin rail--
 

 
 
The aft rail is cut and glued to the side rail sub-assemblies--
 

 
 
More dry fitting--
 

 

 
 
I'm not happy with the aft pin rail.   It looks a little flimsy.  I remove it adjust the notches, and re-glue it--
 

 

 
 
This is better, but I'm not sure it's good yet.  I was going for something similar in basic concept to the mast rails on the Brig Niagara replica, where the side and aft rails are at different heights, but I'm not sure I like this.   I think I will remove the aft rail, trim it, and the side rails, and attach it so that all three are at the same height.  
 
The sheet bitt posts also need the side cleats made and attached (as on the fore mast sheet bitts), but those and the rail adjustments will have to wait for tomorrow.
 
 
Ron

Today's project was the topmast sheet bitts.
 
Here are the basic pieces for both the fore mast (above) and the main mast (below).  Some square posts, pin rails, and the as yet unfinished mast partners
 

 
 
I began working on the fore mast bitts.  These are the simpler of the two, with only one pin rail, athwart the posts.  First I cut the notch for the pin rail--
 

 
 
And chiseled it out--
 

 
 
Here are the two posts laid on the deck.   The knees for the riding bitts need to be notched to receive the posts, and the mast partner piece will also be notched out in the corners--
 

 
 
One post is dry fit--
 

 
 
Here are the two posts and the pin rail dry fit--still a lot of work to do--
 

 
 
A sheave needs to be put into each post.   Here are the posts notched for the sheaves, which are stained pieces cut from a dowel--
 

 
 
After the sheaves are glued in, a filler piece is glued, these will be sanded down flush--
 

 
 
After sanding down the filler pieces, adding a cleat to each side, and some further chamfering and shaping, here are the fore topmast sheet bitts--
 

 
 
And dry fit on the model--
 

 

 
 
 
Ron